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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Custom Lower mesh grills and Fog light delete (NO recoding & NO codes thrown)



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      06-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #1
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DIY: Custom Lower mesh grills and Fog light delete (NO recoding & NO codes thrown)

I am posting this as many people are getting the lower oil cooler or aux radiator mods and deleting the lower fog lights leaves an unsightly hole and no mesh to gaurd against debris for the cooler core. As always I am not responsible for any injury or damage you do to yourself, your car, or others. Use common sense and this is a rather easy DIY.

Things you need:
1) Socket wrench - 8mm, 10mm, and T30 socket
2) Work gloves (important)
3) Jack and stands
4) Tin snips, and razor blade or box cutter
5) Drill with small bit for pilot holes
6) large flathead screw driver, needle nose pliers, regular pair of pliers
7) rubber mallet (optional)
8) custom car grill universal mesh (www.customcargrills.com). I ordered the Diamond XXL in polished black.
9) Wire spool from www.customcargrills.com, small paper clip, and small piece of balsa wood about 3 inches long.

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      06-23-2012, 03:24 PM   #2
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      06-23-2012, 03:29 PM   #3
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DETAILED STEPS:
1)Jack car and place on stands.
2)Take off front bumper using T30, 8mm, 10mm socket wrench. Search in forum for details on how to do this. Set bumper face down on a large towel
3)Take out the 8mm bolts holding the fog light in the housing on each side.
4)Use a flat head screw driver to release the tabs holding the mesh grill in place and pull out grill from the tabs.
5)Use a box cutter or razor to cut the plastic that is holding the housing onto the front bumper. Its easiest to cut the top and bottom 1/3 of the plastic horizontally leaving the middle 1/3. Pry the plastic off with a large flat head screw driver and needle nose pliers. The pic below shows the 4 plastic attachments holding the housing on the bumper. The top left one in the pic is already removed.
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      06-23-2012, 03:33 PM   #4
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6)Using the tin snips now lay a piece of the mesh in place and begin trimming the mesh around the tabs. Make sure you leave enough overlap of the mesh to go about ½ inch beyond the edge of the opening. Also make sure you use gloves as these edges get very sharp. Make certain that you cut the mesh close to the tabs and pry the tabs back a bit to allow the mesh to wedge into the tabs for a secure fit.
7)Use a the butt end of the large flat screw driver or a rubber mallet to beat the mesh down a bit to get it flush with the edge of the opening and mold the mesh along the curve of the old fog light opening.
8)Drill small pilot holes at the corners of the openings. I drilled small pilot holes at the BASE of some of the tabs to allow for wire attachments of the mesh to the tabs. Spray paint the wire spool gloss black and let dry.
9)While the paint is drying take out the fog light switch from your dash. This pulls out easily but its best to take out the top air vent first then pry the switch out. Depress the tab holing the wire in place and rotate the grey connector to the side to remove the switch from the cable. Pry the tabs loose with the screw driver to remove the switch from its housing and then do the same for the tabs at the back of the switch. Remove the back of the switch and the circuit board. There is a little white piece of plastic that is responsible for turning on/off the switch on the circuit board. Remove it.
10)Now the switch will no longer turn on the fog lights. I did this because I did NOT want a valet somewhere one day pressing the fog light button and starting a fire since I will be leaving the fog light bulbs installed but tucked away.
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      06-23-2012, 03:38 PM   #5
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11)Place a paper clip and bend it in a “U” shape to give the switch a springy feel but not allowing it to work. Place a piece of electrical tape to hold it in place. Next wedge a small piece of balsa wood on top of that and cover with electrical tape. This now allows the button that controls the fog light to be slightly depressed and feel springy but not rattle around with driving even though it does not work and internal piece is removed.
12)Leave the fog light bulbs in place in the socket and wrap LOOSELY with Duct tape in case you ever want to restore your fog lights to factory look. Wrap that with Aluminum foil. Wrap that with electrical tape. I did this just to be anal retentive if a short circuit were to ever occur and start a fire at least I have some fire retardant barrier. This should be water tight as well. Fish the wrapped bulb through the hole underneath the headlights. (this is for headlamp washer which our cars do not have). Zip tie securely so that it doesn’t rattle around while driving.
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      06-23-2012, 03:40 PM   #6
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13)Now that the paint is dry on the wire spool cut 3 ½ - 4 inch pieces and fish through the pilot holes you drilled in the base of the tabs and the mesh grill. Use a large pair of pliers to twist tie this wire. It is best to PULL HARD while you twist. This will ensure a snug tight attachment. Use the pliers to bend the edges of the mesh and wire twisties away from you so that you minimize cutting yourself in the future.
14)Reinstall the bumper and enjoy!!
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      08-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #7
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you can also get some sim resistors on ebay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N54_Fan View Post
13)Now that the paint is dry on the wire spool cut 3 ½ - 4 inch pieces and fish through the pilot holes you drilled in the base of the tabs and the mesh grill. Use a large pair of pliers to twist tie this wire. It is best to PULL HARD while you twist. This will ensure a snug tight attachment. Use the pliers to bend the edges of the mesh and wire twisties away from you so that you minimize cutting yourself in the future.
14)Reinstall the bumper and enjoy!!
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      08-10-2012, 09:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
you can also get some sim resistors on ebay.
I was not aware of the resistors at the time I did this. Also, this was easy and I had all the supplies (duct tape, Aluminum foil, electrical tape) at home already.
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      08-10-2012, 10:32 PM   #9
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this is great what you did, i think i will use epoxy as well to hold it in place.

do you attend any meets? i can also code the fogs from your car if you like.
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      08-10-2012, 10:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
this is great what you did, i think i will use epoxy as well to hold it in place.

do you attend any meets? i can also code the fogs from your car if you like.
Not yet. Looking to go to some in the near future. That would be great if you could code them out. I am not in Miami though. I am in Central Florida closer to Tampa area.
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      08-10-2012, 11:11 PM   #11
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i can do remote coding via log me in or something. i will be in sebring for the nasa weekend oct 7.
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      08-11-2012, 12:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvosko View Post
i can do remote coding via log me in or something. i will be in sebring for the nasa weekend oct 7.
Thanks for the offer Neil. However, I will miss you by one week. I will be in Sebring on Oct 13-14 with Chin Motorsports. I am sure we will meet up at some other opportunity.
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      04-24-2014, 10:29 AM   #13
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I realize this is an old thread but I love what you did. I really want to remove the fogs on my pre-lci e90 and have a few great (and rare) threads where members like yourself did it full bore and not leaving the hole.

I was wondering how you handled the ducting? Did you go with 335is or M3 ducts?
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