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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Chasing issues on my 335D.



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      01-18-2017, 05:51 AM   #1
JCIL
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Chasing issues on my 335D.

I have a 2010 335D with 95K miles. I've been dealing with an issue for a few months without resolve. The car sounds like it has an audible boost leak and loss of power until 3k RPM or so. O, and it billows black smoke like a freight train under load until it goes into limp mode. (Enough black smoke to blackout two lanes of highway.) Also, when scanning for codes with CARLY BT the engine dies.

I have replaced almost every piece that I thought might be leaking. I even pulled the intake manifold off cleaned it, deleted swirl flaps, and re-installed with new gaskets. Car has new vacuum lines except for those running to the engine mounts. I blew 1 forge pipe and replaced it with another. The only seal left is the o-ring from the intercooler pipe to throttle body and that is on order.

Mods:
-JR stage 2.5 tune
-Wagner IC
-AAR Race pipe and swirl flap delete
-Forge pipe
-gutted SCR
-buzzken downpipe


Also replaced harmonic balancer due to failure at 90k miles.

Current codes are
Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
measured air mass compared to the calculated air mass to low Code: 004865 Charge pressure control error Code: 004530
Air flow meter signal Code: 003FF0
TCU low-pressure stage error Code: 00429A
Injection quantity monitoring quantity error correction over range Code: 004674
DDE main relay Code: 004121

ABS / DSC / Brake:
Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC
Torque 2 missing message PT-CAN Code: 00D355
Torque 1 missing message PT-CAN Code: 00D354
Torque 3 missing message PT-CAN Code: 00D356

Transmission Control:
Transmission / Getriebe GS 19
:K-Can Bus off / Delay requirement ACC Code: 00CF33

Heating / AC:
Air conditioning / Klimaanlage
CAN message Code: 00E717


I've read a little on the code 4530 thread and ordered 2 new pressure converters, along with new MAF and MAP sensors. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1066141

It has been months since the car was running well. I hope I'm headed in the right direction. Does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on what I could be missing?

Thanks

Last edited by JCIL; 01-25-2017 at 03:24 AM. Reason: updated mods
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      01-18-2017, 11:41 AM   #2
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Sounds all too familiar. I'll try to give a more detailed answer a bit later. But before, may be a few questions to you.

Do you have a better diagnostic tool like TestO? Can you give a little history and timeline on going illiterate. Did you run with an SCR in place after deleting DPF, if so for how long. Have you replaced any of the sensors yet, such as MAF. Have you done any diagnostics on the vacuum system besides replacing vacuum lines?
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      01-18-2017, 11:46 AM   #3
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4530 is the typical pressure converter code, I would likely replace the high pressure turbo pressure converter and make sure that the vacuum lines to and from it are not leaking. The MAF and fueling codes, if the pressure converter is bad, would likely just be due to the low boost issue.

Can you log boost with the carly BT to see if you are making boost down low or not?
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      01-18-2017, 02:13 PM   #4
9mmkungfu
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I just skimmed over this, but it sounds like boost loss. I had a similar issue in the past, and it was my vacuum lines. I'd check those.
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      01-18-2017, 07:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
Sounds all too familiar. I'll try to give a more detailed answer a bit later. But before, may be a few questions to you.

Do you have a better diagnostic tool like TestO? Can you give a little history and timeline on going illiterate. Did you run with an SCR in place after deleting DPF, if so for how long. Have you replaced any of the sensors yet, such as MAF. Have you done any diagnostics on the vacuum system besides replacing vacuum lines?
-The only diagnostic tools I have are Carly and Bavarian Technic. I'm trying to figure out how to install INPA.

-I probably ran the downpiped car with the SCR in place for about a month before gutting it.

-I've tried cleaning the MAF, but I have not replaced it yet. Replacement is ordered though. Also ordered a MAP sensor and 2 pressure converters.

- I replaced the vacuum lines, but I did not do any diagnostics on them.

Thanks for the help.
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      01-18-2017, 07:58 PM   #6
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I guess I was very lucky. I ran for 6000 miles with DPF delete and SCR still there. 1/2 way through I switched tunes from Ecotune to JR Auto. The urea still spraying for first 6 months certainly didn't help matters. I bet my SCR is full of funk.
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      01-19-2017, 02:23 AM   #7
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Check the exhaust pressure sensor tube. It goes from the side of the switchover to the black box thing above the turbos. I had very similar symptoms before and that was it.
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      01-19-2017, 09:50 PM   #8
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Definitely sounds like boost issues. How did you blow a forge boost pipe though? There was another member that blew one but I think he was running over 40psi
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      01-24-2017, 08:07 AM   #9
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I replaced both pressure converters, the maf and map sensors and put everything back together... No change.

There is no power until 3k rpm. There is a turbulent sound almost like a leak with WOT until 3k rpm.

I read through this thread,http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258934, and I think I am repeating it.

Also, I am noticing oil spray underneath the intake manifold on the drivers side. I cleaned it all out when I had the intake manifold off for swirl flap blanks and all new gaskets, and now it's even more oily than before.

Last edited by JCIL; 01-25-2017 at 03:41 AM. Reason: more infog
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      01-24-2017, 05:06 PM   #10
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Reading about the oil mess up top makes me think you have a boost leak on the EGR valve or one of the seals on the front or back of it. Please tell us about if you have a stock EGR with unblocked/blocked connection to EGR cooler. I had an oil spreay condition up in that same area but it was because I had gutted my EGR valve and had to plug the shaft hole on the driver's side. This plug was where the shaft went through the side of the valve. The 1/8" NPT wasn't sealing well. I have no EGR cooler. I switched to one of the fake EGR housings available (AARodriguez sells them) and no side holes in it. I also changed the seals on the throttle body (front and back) and the seal on the manifold side of the fake EGR housing. I don't have an oil mess there anymore. I did the swirl flap delete at same time. Swirls had nothing to do with oil mess in my case though.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 01-24-2017 at 05:15 PM.
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      01-26-2017, 02:53 AM   #11
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Not to say it is correct, but when my MAF failed, and 3FF0 showed up along with MAF code, it was the temp sensor in the MAF. New MAF has fixed it, along with adaptations reset.

If OP is getting some air leak sounds, it could be any of the boost connections, but it would have to be seriously not connecting well for these audible sounds. If new MAF did not help, start checking all the boost connections to make sure you find a leak of the serious boost leak.
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      01-26-2017, 10:04 AM   #12
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Kind of off topic but is there a diy on gutting your scr?
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      01-26-2017, 10:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logandeere View Post
Kind of off topic but is there a diy on gutting your scr?
Search has lots of results. Check out post #56 here.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1061325&page=3
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      01-27-2017, 06:53 AM   #14
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Car has boost again. I just couldn't get over the oil spray on the driver's side under the manifold. I had replaced all the seals in the intercooler piping and still oil there.

Last night I went to feel the the back of the cool side charge pipe that connects to the throttle body. There was a huge 2 inch split in the rubber pipe. I was really happy to find that. After a little temporary patch job the car finally has boost again. I can't believe it took me three months to find that hole.

I ordered a couple different silicone pipes and t-bolt clamps from Verocious Motorsports hoping that one of them will fit.

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...695.1485406715

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...695.1485406715

Now I can move on to something more fun like methanol injection. I've been looking at the aquamist HFS4 v3.1 kit, and I would like to figure out how to get that working.

I am thankful, though, for all the knowledge of the vacuum system and how the car works overall that I have gained from you all on this forum. Thank you.
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      01-27-2017, 10:47 AM   #15
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Glad you found the boost leak. I hadn't heard of that rubber portion of the charge pipe splitting so I will periodically use the mirror to look at bottom side for any signs of a crack forming.
I have noticed that sometimes the clip holding the plastic end into throttle body ( I know it's really the anti shudder valve but we use the gasser term loosely) comes a little lose and a small leak can happen there. It's not a bad seal but rather the mechanical clip just doesn't stay on securely. I heard it rattling one time when AC was on and rattle would stop if AC was turned off.
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