Originally Posted by mlifxs

in the end, you may prefer professional alignment, but I found that front toe was somewhat manageable to adjust between alignments, even for a hack like me, say for post part install or adjustable camber plate.

Our car's front toe is adjusted by rotating the outer tie rods. A torx bit is used to unlock the tie rod for rotation, a 13mm open wrench can be used to rotate the tie rod.

I used vinyl floor tiles, with salt, under the front tires, to facilitate wheel movement as the tire rods are adjusted. CALWATERBOY gave me this video suggestion describing it along with other particulars:

You can use toe plates to measure your toe, before and after adjustments (and perhaps before you pull your alignment pins).

I have the Longacre toe plates and they are much easier to work with then the string-jackstand method shown in the first video.

If you decide to DIY your measurements or adjustments, consider loading the car with weight, at least enough to represent your weight as a driver, before and after adjustment.

Front toe is all about going slowly with adjustments, remeasuring, and keeping the steering wheel centered as you go.

I prefer the string-jackstand method. Although it takes a bit longer to setup, you end up getting true toe settings for each wheel/tire as opposed to just total toe for the whole front axle via toe plates. Although that figure is important, the more exact analysis is preffered, when you have the time to do so. Toe plates do have their place when quickly testing different setups at the race track, auto-x, etc. though. JMHO.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by john16443

I've removed my pins previously, and have about -0.8 degrees neg camber on each side. When I changed my front shocks with FSD's recently, I saw that the 3 mounting holes are slotted.

So what would happen if I slotted them a little more? More free neg camber???

dinan camber plates @150 brand new would be a better way

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

I prefer the string-jackstand method. Although it takes a bit longer to setup, you end up getting true toe settings for each wheel/tire as opposed to just total toe for the whole front axle via toe plates. Although that figure is important, the more exact analysis is preffered, when you have the time to do so. Toe plates do have their place when quickly testing different setups at the race track, auto-x, etc. though. JMHO.

I admire your thoroughness sir. I'm only using plates for the front. My belief is they're sufficient for front only corrections: assuming the rear is set properly, car is loaded, then total toe + centered steering wheel is sufficient for "between professional alignments".

I've never tried setting my rear toe as it seems more complicated. I have marked my bolts to track changes between alignments.

[seveer7]

For anybody still considering removing their alignment pins, I removed mine recently. I used a bolt extractor kit which made it easy. Once they're removed, jack the car up and loosen the strut top nuts. It is easy to move the shocks by hand when both front wheels are off the ground. When moving the shocks inward to increase negative camber the toe will be reduced as a result so if you're worried get it checked at an alignment shop after. Mine was on the limit of minimum factory spec after maxing out the negative camber.
I removed mine mainly to help with tyre wear as the shoulders on my tyres were wearing out when the rest of the tyre has plenty of tread left. I am getting new tyres soon so won't know for another year whether it has had the desired effect. However, I can report an increased level of front end grip before understeer so for me it was well worth the hour of labour. Good luck.