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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > M3 control arm question - alignment specs - searched for a week



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      01-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #1
e92josh
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M3 control arm question - alignment specs - searched for a week

Hi

I'm still new here, but I have been obsessively searching for this and I cannot find a solid answer anywhere.

I have a E92 328i with sports package. Lowered, spacers, sways, etc. Ready for a nice track day. I notice my rear wheels have a slight more noticeable negative camber than front; which is typical.

I know the M3 control arm debate/questions are crazy, so let me just get to the point.

I plan on doing the front and rear upper/lower control arm kit. Entire swap out. I've read specs staying with 328/335 and I've heard people specing alignment to M3 specs.

What is proper? At what point is the camber compromising tire wear?

The car is mainly a DD but I do like a spirited drive and random track days, so, hopefully that spills into my intent.

Any help would be awesome.

Thank you
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      01-16-2014, 11:46 AM   #2
HP Autosport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92josh View Post
Hi

I'm still new here, but I have been obsessively searching for this and I cannot find a solid answer anywhere.

I have a E92 328i with sports package. Lowered, spacers, sways, etc. Ready for a nice track day. I notice my rear wheels have a slight more noticeable negative camber than front; which is typical.

I know the M3 control arm debate/questions are crazy, so let me just get to the point.

I plan on doing the front and rear upper/lower control arm kit. Entire swap out. I've read specs staying with 328/335 and I've heard people specing alignment to M3 specs.

What is proper? At what point is the camber compromising tire wear?

The car is mainly a DD but I do like a spirited drive and random track days, so, hopefully that spills into my intent.

Any help would be awesome.

Thank you
I would usually stay within factory specs for toe. For high powered cars you can get away with running a little toe IN in the rear to help with traction. Regarding camber you really don't have a say for the front end which, because you are lowered, will net you around -2*. As for the rear camber you can always dial that in to whatever you want. I usually suggest anywhere from -1.5* to -1.8*. All subjective really, but this is a good place to start.

-Mike

EDIT: Toe in sorry haha

Last edited by HP Autosport; 01-16-2014 at 11:57 AM..
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      01-16-2014, 12:07 PM   #3
e92josh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
I would usually stay within factory specs for toe. For high powered cars you can get away with running a little toe IN in the rear to help with traction. Regarding camber you really don't have a say for the front end which, because you are lowered, will net you around -2*. As for the rear camber you can always dial that in to whatever you want. I usually suggest anywhere from -1.5* to -1.8*. All subjective really, but this is a good place to start.

-Mike

EDIT: Toe in sorry haha
Awesome, thanks for the response! Should be an interesting little project.
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      01-16-2014, 04:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
I would usually stay within factory specs for toe. For high powered cars you can get away with running a little toe IN in the rear to help with traction. Regarding camber you really don't have a say for the front end which, because you are lowered, will net you around -2*. As for the rear camber you can always dial that in to whatever you want. I usually suggest anywhere from -1.5* to -1.8*. All subjective really, but this is a good place to start.

-Mike

EDIT: Toe in sorry haha
When you say to stay within factory toe specs do you mean M3 specs though or regular 328i/335i specs or are they the same? Are you saying that the alignment specs should stay the same after upgrading to M3 arms except that you get more negative camber in front and whatever camber you choose in the rear?
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      01-16-2014, 05:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitino25 View Post
When you say to stay within factory toe specs do you mean M3 specs though or regular 328i/335i specs or are they the same? Are you saying that the alignment specs should stay the same after upgrading to M3 arms except that you get more negative camber in front and whatever camber you choose in the rear?
I believe M3 is 1/16th toe in front and rear or something to that nature. For a regular street driven car with some track days I would go around 0 toe front and 1/16 to in for the rear. Again, subjective.

-Mike
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      01-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
I believe M3 is 1/16th toe in front and rear or something to that nature. For a regular street driven car with some track days I would go around 0 toe front and 1/16 to in for the rear. Again, subjective.

-Mike
0 toe up front is a pain in the ass, since under rolling load, the control arm bushing will deflect and actually create toe out, which is gonna keep you wandering around and constantly correcting

I'd go no lower than 1/16 total front toe in and maybe 1/8 out back to help stabilize and put down some power

rear should always have a little more toe in than the front, but too much will accelerate tire wear
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      01-20-2014, 12:23 PM   #7
kaede
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Stick with your own car spec for the model 328/335, don't align to m3 spec because it isnt going to work. For track use, align to spec and max out camber (as much as stock/your set up can go, usually will give you a bit more, nothing crazy, but will make a huge difference on the track/spirited driving). Have fun!
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      01-21-2014, 11:16 AM   #8
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