[GEOS07335i]

Anyone using the RB PCV Valve? Any opinions?

http://www.rbturbo.com/rbpcv

I cant seem to find a PCV valve. I had the dealer tell me that it's integrated into the valve cover and I would need to buy a whole new valve cover? Is that true? Sounds crazy for something that looks like a $15 part.

[Meatos]

I have it and changed it myself, not intergrated, he lied. Can cause boost leak if not changed when tuning

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

It's a quick and easy swap.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Anyone using the RB PCV Valve? Any opinions?

I cant seem to find a PCV valve. I had the dealer tell me that it's integrated into the valve cover and I would need to buy a whole new valve cover? Is that true? Sounds crazy for something that looks like a $15 part.

Originally Posted by Meatos

I have it and changed it myself, not intergrated, he lied. Can cause boost leak

They are two of them. One is build in into the valve cover and isn't serviceable or replaceable. Oil cap leak and leaking valve cover gasket or cracked valve cover are the usual cause for slow boost build and boost leaks on the n54. I don't suspect the PCV valve to be the reason at moderate boost levels.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

It is true that BMW considers the N54 PCV valve component non-serviceable, and replacing the entire valve cover is indeed part of their standard protocol to service any of it.

We'd found this to be untrue (or unneeded) around 2010 with a little probing around. At this time unfortunately there was never a replacement source found (without buying the entire valve cover of course), so we ended up taking the initiative to study some very respected valves in the automobile industry and adapting the highest quality unit with similar flow characteristics we could find into the platform. The N54 OEM valve is plastic, the RB Valve is steel with a T6061 adaptive sleeve.

At any rate we've sold thousands of these over the years and it is indeed an easy swap.

Originally Posted by feuer

They are two of them. One is build in into the valve cover and isn't serviceable or replaceable. Oil cap leak and leaking valve cover gasket or cracked valve cover are the usual cause for slow boost build and boost leaks on the n54. I don't suspect the PCV valve to be the reason at moderate boost levels.

Not sure I am following you here. There is only one PCV valve and it is serviceable, but only with aftermarket support (ie. no support from BMW). There is also a vent hose (aka flapper assembly) that is exterior to the valve cover (adjacent to the PCV valve), which works in conjunction with the PCV valve during high/low load transitions.

Rob

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Not sure I am following you here. There is only one PCV valve and it is serviceable, but only with aftermarket support (ie. no support from BMW). There is also a vent hose (aka flapper assembly) that is exterior to the valve cover (adjacent to the PCV valve), which works in conjunction with the PCV valve during high/low load transitions.

Rob

I assumed that there are two. One that you have replacement for and one in the box glued on the top of the cover circled in red. Does it use only bank#2 to regulate the vacuum/pressure in the crank case? If you don't mind please explain further how that part works.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by feuer

I assumed that there are two. One that you have replacement for and one in the box glued on the top of the cover circled in red. Does it use only bank#2 to regulate the vacuum/pressure in the crank case? If you don't mind please explain further how that part works.

Circled in red?

Both banks, the entire crankcase, are ventilated by the PCV under low load conditions. Likewise under high load the entire crankcase is vented through the vent hose (flapper assembly) with a small vacuum aid from the rear turbos (bank 2) inlet.

Thanks,
Rob

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Circled in red?

All banks (or the entire crankcase) are ventilated by the PCV under low load conditions. Likewise under high load they are vented through the vent hose (flapper assembly) with a small vacuum aid from the rear turbos (bank 2) inlet.

Thanks,
Rob

Oh, it didn't attach.

[GEOS07335i]

Well I just changed my Valve Cover Gasket last night in hopes of resolving a small oil leak in the rear left corner. I took out my PCV valve shook. I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and it seems to have helped in the shaking test. Although I plan on getting a new one instead of an entire VC. Although my VCG was a bit dry and brittle I dont think it is the cause of my oil leak. I did not see any oil in or around the channels or inside of the spark plug cavities.

I have a feeling it's the seals to the turbo's as I have a drop or two of oil on my DP's. :-( either case, the VCG is needing replacement and I'll replace the CCV Crank Case Breather hose (*as I broke mine trying to pull it out. I hate those pesky connectors)and PCV Valve as a good measure. My VC is not cracked although a little banged up after wrestling to get it out.

[GEOS07335i]

Will the RB Valve work with the OEM cap?

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by feuer

Oh, it didn't attach.

Left Top: PCV Vave Screw-On Cap (unthreading this lies the PCV Valve)
Left Bottom: Vent Hose/Flapper assembly ventilation connection
Mid to Right "Cone looking objects": Four Cyclonic Separators that aid in "flinging" off larger oil droplets (from the crankcases ventilation environment) and letting them drain back into the crankcase.

It is important to see that with the OEM valve cover BMW has gone to some great lengths to keep oil in the engine. Upon dissection one would find tremendous baffling along with the cyclonic separation area, which does the best job it can keeping a crankcases "oil vapor riddled atmosphere" from passing to the outside world.

Over the next months some will purchase new aftermarket valve covers with literally zero cyclonic separation (and zero baffling), and our bet is that they will all be passing tremendous amounts of oil from the crankcase to the outside areas of the engine shortly thereafter. Unfortunately not many seem to understand some of the fundamentals of engines and design, and how to improve it effectively and efficiently. My $.02.

Rob

[Meatos]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Will the RB Valve work with the OEM cap?

Yes

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Will the RB Valve work with the OEM cap?

Absolutely as long as it doesn't break during servicing, then you'll need a replacement (which we offer as well). It DOES seem that about 1 out of 10 or so need to snip the leading edges from the OEM cap "four inner fingers leading edges (about 1mm removed from the corner), as the plastic molding can be a bit out of whack on some. Some wire snips and about 5 seconds and that is fixed (if encountered).

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Left Top: PCV Vave Screw-On Cap (unthreading this lies the PCV Valve)
Left Bottom: Vent Hose/Flapper assembly ventilation connection
Mid to Right "Cone looking objects": Four Cyclonic Separators that aid in "flinging" off larger oil droplets (from the crankcases ventilation environment) and letting them drain back into the crankcase.

It is important to see that with the OEM valve cover BMW has gone to some great lengths to keep oil in the engine. Upon dissection one would find tremendous baffling along with the cyclonic separation area, which does the best job it can keeping a crankcases "oil vapor riddled atmosphere" from passing to the outside world.

Over the next months some will purchase new aftermarket valve covers with literally zero cyclonic separation (and zero baffling), and our bet is that they will all be passing tremendous amounts of oil from the crankcase to the outside areas of the engine shortly thereafter. Unfortunately not many seem to understand some of the fundamentals of engines and design, and how to improve it effectively and efficiently. My $.02.

Rob

So in other words stick to OEM VC's and swap out your PCV's valve?

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Absolutely as long as it doesn't break during servicing, then you'll need a replacement (which we offer as well). It DOES seem that about 1 out of 10 or so need to snip the leading edges from the OEM cap "four inner fingers leading edges (about 1mm removed from the corner), as the plastic molding can be a bit out of whack on some. Some wire snips and about 5 seconds and that is fixed (if encountered).

Just placed my order. I'm sure I'll be that 1 in 10.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Just placed my order. I'm sure I'll be that 1 in 10.

Keep us posted!

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

So in other words stick to OEM VC's and swap out your PCV's valve?

In other words give the guinea pigs 6-12 months to confirm what was stated keeping in mind that sometimes the aftermarket leads to a case of fixing one thing while breaking two others (ie. 1 step forward, 2 steps back).

Rob

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

Absolutely as long as it doesn't break during servicing, then you'll need a replacement (which we offer as well). It DOES seem that about 1 out of 10 or so need to snip the leading edges from the OEM cap "four inner fingers leading edges (about 1mm removed from the corner), as the plastic molding can be a bit out of whack on some. Some wire snips and about 5 seconds and that is fixed (if encountered).

Rob, every how many miles should we be replacing these? I've had my rb pcv installed for about 40k Miles.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Rob, every how many miles should we be replacing these? I've had my rb pcv installed for about 40k Miles.

It is a maintenance item and this can vary small and large, but for a general recommendation we advise every 50k miles.

[OMESALES]

Love my RB PCV, works great, I just listed a extra one I had purchased from Rob.

So if you want one check out the forums ( Turbo section )



EDIT - It sold in 5 minutes.....

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by OMESALES

Love my RB PCV, works great, I just listed a extra one I had purchased from Rob.

So if you want one check out the forums ( Turbo section )

I ordered mine earlier today.

[mweisdorfer]

If you own an N54 motor, you absolutely should own an Rob Beck PCV valve, cap & some sort of catch can. I have the mishimoto catch can that mounts on the power steering mount. In addition, you should invest in the equipment that allows you to walnut blast & do this procedure every other year. The engine will run much better, as a result, in both the short & long term.

I recently did a DIY that required me to take off my charge pipe and undo the couplers to the FMIC. I can tell you this, there was no oil in either. It's been 1 year & about 15,000 miles since I did a walnut intake cleaning, as I own my own equipment to do so. Even the flaps to the throttle body were super clean.

Both the Rob Beck PCV valve & Mishimoto catch can perform as advertised....