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Originally Posted by Haywire

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146590

sorry for the poor quality.

Tough to judge from your pictures, but based on the fact that you said you can catch your nail on it, your options are the following: do a heavy compound, wet sand, touch up or respray. Chances are compounding or wet sanding will minimize the scratch a bit, but some of it may remain. To some people this may be fine as you might only be able to catch the remaining lines in the right lighting, others it may drive nuts. Sometimes I'd rather minimize a scratch as much as possible before resorting to any paint work only because sometimes you don't get an exact match. Keep us posted on what you end up doing and how things turn out.

Originally Posted by SpecC

Hey George... did a full detail on my car with a fine grade clay bar and 106POFF and a white pad at 1100 RPM. i taped up the trim in that area, so I couldn't really get to that piece. I clayed most of it off and the glass part was easy with a razor blade. Do you have any other suggestions on how I can take that off? Right now, I don't think it looks good for my paint...

thanks in advance, George!

Do you have any pics after you tried to correct it? The trim may require some work, I usually start off by treating trim with some isopropyl alcohol and water mixture. This helps prep the surface for any type of trim restorer you may use. Some detailers will prep trim by performing a light wetsand on the affected area. Scuffing it up allows the trim restorer to work best and you can remove surface stains. I personally don't have much experience using this method, so please do some research on it before attempting to wetsand your trim. For your paint, I'd clay as much off as you could, try a chemical cleaner, like Klasse AIO, then if more correction is needed, start polishing with an abrasive polish and continue to move up to more aggressive options until you achieve the results you're looking for. Good luck, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

Originally Posted by Neurorad

What the heck is that?

George, I use Pinnacle Leather Cleaner & Conditioner (single product). I tried the separate cleaner and conditioners, but this seems to work just as well. Do you sell a similar 1-step product?

Also, +1 on Duragloss products - big fan of the 901. You should reconsider carrying them.

Thanks for the input. We have a 1 step Leather Cleaner & Conditioner, Poorboy's World Leather Stuff. This product will clean, lightly condition and UV protect your leather in 1 simple step. Has a great leather scent to it as well.

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

thanks George! hehe, i see i should've waited a little before ordering the Gilmour and gotten the free CWG
*anxiously awaiting the Gilmour*

Should be there any day for you. It's always a crap shoot with good 'ol customs, sometimes it comes early, sometimes they make it late. Shoot me a PM once it arrives if you can.

Regards,

George

[BayerischeMW]

hey George!

i'm looking at a Meguiar's G220 buffer (same as G110 just for European countries), since i'm fresh when it comes to machine polishing.

i still have some Poorboy's World SSR1 and 2.5 left, so i'll try those before moving on to Menzerna 106ff and SIP. what kind of pads & speeds do you suggest i use with SSR1 and 2.5?
btw. i've seen some websites list 106fa saying it's the "uprated version of 106ff" - what does this mean?

i think i have the basic "know-how" when it comes to operating the machine, but do you have any suggestions for a machine polishing beginner?

thank you very much!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by BayerischeMW

hey George!

i'm looking at a Meguiar's G220 buffer (same as G110 just for European countries), since i'm fresh when it comes to machine polishing.

i still have some Poorboy's World SSR1 and 2.5 left, so i'll try those before moving on to Menzerna 106ff and SIP. what kind of pads & speeds do you suggest i use with SSR1 and 2.5?
btw. i've seen some websites list 106fa saying it's the "uprated version of 106ff" - what does this mean?

i think i have the basic "know-how" when it comes to operating the machine, but do you have any suggestions for a machine polishing beginner?

thank you very much!

I think you'll enjoy the G220 buffer. Pad wise, I typically would recommend a light cutting pad (if looking at Lake Country pads, than an orange pad) for the SSR 2.5. For SSR 1 a polishing pad (again if Lake Country, a white pad). For best results on a random orbital like the G220 you want to kick the speed right up to the max once you've spread the product over your working area.

I don't think many people would notice a difference from 106FA and 106FF. I believe (don't quote me on this) but 106FA might have a little more workability and a little less dusting. Supposedly same cut and gloss level. I haven't used it personally, but I've never experienced dusting with 106FF and it removes super easy. Maybe someone else can chime in on this if they know the specific differences between them.

Tips for a beginner using a buffer:

• Start in small working areas until you feel comfortable (ie. 12" x 12")
• Make at least 6 ~ 8 passes over each inch of your working area before you turn the buffer off and begin to remove the product
• Move the buffer no more than 1" per second when performing paint correction with a DA
• Apply enough pressure to the head of the buffer to properly break down the polish. Polishing isn't just a wipe on wipe off process as I'm sure you know.

Keep us posted on how things turn out. Best of luck and thanks once again for your continued support

George

[Wilson01]

George,

I have a quick question. I got some Poorboys Natural Look dressing for my interior. I tested it on my gal's 4Runner and found that it has a bit of a uneven appearance. Is there a good way to apply this to get just a nice uniform finish? Any suggestions would help mucho. Thanks, Nick

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Wilson01

George,

I have a quick question. I got some Poorboys Natural Look dressing for my interior. I tested it on my gal's 4Runner and found that it has a bit of a uneven appearance. Is there a good way to apply this to get just a nice uniform finish? Any suggestions would help mucho. Thanks, Nick

Nick,

This is how I apply it, and it seems to work pretty good. I put a small dab on the corner of a microfiber towel. Gently spread it over the planned working area. Give some light pressure and work the product into the surface. When your given working area has product covering the surface, I flip to a clean side (or use a separate towel) and buff the product to a uniform matte finish. Keep in mind less is more. Using too much product can often lead to streaking or an uneven look. Let me know if this helps at all.

George

[normtrum]

Hi George...long time no type. Couple of quick questions for you....As you know I went with the FMJ/PB Natty blue combo on my Black saph. I don't need to strip and re-apply...since I've only had this combo on for awhile....no driving in the rain, parked in the garage, and maybe only 5-6 washes (I quick detail every time I pull back in the garage). So I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to re-apply another coat of Natty...just to add a little depth/warmth to the color?.....or is it a better idea to strip and start over? The latter would really be overkill...since I know my FMJ is still going strong.

Also....and this might sound like a weird question....but I'm wondering if there is any difference at all when washing my car with cold, warm, or hot water? I mean...does warmer water break down any of the product I have on my car? Reason I ask is because I happen to have hot AND cold lines to my outdoor faucet.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Hi George...long time no type. Couple of quick questions for you....As you know I went with the FMJ/PB Natty blue combo on my Black saph. I don't need to strip and re-apply...since I've only had this combo on for awhile....no driving in the rain, parked in the garage, and maybe only 5-6 washes (I quick detail every time I pull back in the garage). So I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to re-apply another coat of Natty...just to add a little depth/warmth to the color?.....or is it a better idea to strip and start over? The latter would really be overkill...since I know my FMJ is still going strong.

Also....and this might sound like a weird question....but I'm wondering if there is any difference at all when washing my car with cold, warm, or hot water? I mean...does warmer water break down any of the product I have on my car? Reason I ask is because I happen to have hot AND cold lines to my outdoor faucet.

Good questions. For the FMJ/NB question, you can simply reapply a coat of Natty's Blue on top of your existing coats since FMJ is still going strong. I'd recommend stripping it down when you're sure FMJ's protection has run out (to play it safe I'd recommend every 4 months roughly). You just want to avoid applying FMJ over NB, which would be why you'd want to strip it.

Regarding the hot or cold water, I'm honestly not 100% sure. My gut instinct would say warm would be the best, because I know hotter water can often help break down heavier contamination (like bug splatter, etc.), but I am sure using TOO hot of water may break down your protective layers as well, especially the wax layer. Cold water is obviously the most common, so it certainly can't be bad, it really just boils down to if using warm water is more beneficial. Do some experimenting and see what seems to work better for you.

Great to hear from you.

George

[SpecC]

Hey George,

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149922

If you will indulge us in your detailing expertise please! TIA!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SpecC

Hey George,

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149922

If you will indulge us in your detailing expertise please! TIA!

Replied

[jlspeed29]

George,
I have a quick question,
My wood trim on my car is getting fine scratches in it. I keep a mf towell in my car and use it to occasionally dust the inside. I have the light burlnut wood trim...
what would you recommend?? A wax? Should I use a QD?

[solefald]

I have a question too!

Did Parrot install yesterday, and ran mic wire down the A-pillar. At the end, when i re-installed everything, i noticed a ton of dirty hands prints on my a-pillar upholstery!
How do i carefully clean that?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jlspeed29

George,
I have a quick question,
My wood trim on my car is getting fine scratches in it. I keep a mf towell in my car and use it to occasionally dust the inside. I have the light burlnut wood trim...
what would you recommend?? A wax? Should I use a QD?

I usually recommend keeping a small 4oz pump spray bottle in your glove box along with either a quick detailer or interior product. I personally use Spray & Wipe as I can use it on the exterior for bird bombs and almost any surface on the vehicle. I try to avoid wiping any dusty/dirty delicate surface with a dry towel, microfiber or not. For removing the scratches you'll need some sort of abrasive product to get that job done, something like Meg's PlasticX/ScratchX if you're going to attempt it.

Originally Posted by solefald

I have a question too!

Did Parrot install yesterday, and ran mic wire down the A-pillar. At the end, when i re-installed everything, i noticed a ton of dirty hands prints on my a-pillar upholstery!
How do i carefully clean that?

What I do for stains on delicate areas is spray some good upholstery cleaner onto a microfiber towel and dab the area. You want to avoid scrubbing it as you may just spread the stains even further. It can take some time, since you don't want to use TOO much product either so that you don't see a ring of cleaner on your upholstery. I typically turn to 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover for stains that you are describing.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

George

[absix]

Hey George,

I want to ZAINO my E93 for the first time but I had it waxed a couple of months ago and I need to get rid of the old wax. We don't have Dawn in my country, could you recommend something I can purchase from you or any other place? Feel free to PM if you want.

Thanks a lot and kudos to your efforts here.

abs

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by absix

Hey George,

I want to ZAINO my E93 for the first time but I had it waxed a couple of months ago and I need to get rid of the old wax. We don't have Dawn in my country, could you recommend something I can purchase from you or any other place? Feel free to PM if you want.

Thanks a lot and kudos to your efforts here.

abs

Create a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water (50/50) in a spray bottle and use it as a quick detailer. Let me know if that will work for you.

Thanks for the kind words.

Regards,

George

[absix]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Create a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water (50/50) in a spray bottle and use it as a quick detailer.

That mixture is supposed to get rid of the old wax? Just spray the whole car, wait a couple of minutes and rinse with water?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am willing to learn!

Thanks again!

[normtrum]

Hey George....one more quick question.....when I reapplied a coat of PB NB...I went over my entire care before removing....unlike the last time I did my car where I only did sections. The NB was difficult to remove...so I'm wondering is it ok to use a spray wax to remove the dried on NB...or is this not a good idea? I used to do this on my 330 a few years ago....but now I'm wondering if it's a good idea or not. Thanks!

[carrabassett786]

Hey,
some lady cut me off when I had a full gas can in my trunk. As far as I could tell, the rubber trunk mat held all the gas that spilled, but after airing out my car for a day, it still reeks of gas. What can I do to clean it up?
Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by absix

That mixture is supposed to get rid of the old wax? Just spray the whole car, wait a couple of minutes and rinse with water?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am willing to learn!

Thanks again!

Yes, the alcohol will strip off previous coats of sealant or wax. I use it like a quick detailer. Mist the mixture onto a microfiber towel and wipe down your panels. Take a second microfiber towel to buff any streaks away.

Originally Posted by Joey Babs

Hey George,

I just picked up my AW e92 last weekend and im looking at the TONS of products that can be used for washing and taking car of my car and its overwhelming. Can you suggest some good products/techniques that i can use for my AW e92? I had a black TSX and it was way too much work and i will never own another black car EVER again. How do you feel about spray waxes for every wash (im not saying in lou of real waxing lol, but to keep that nice german paint protected). Chamois to dry or MF towels? Mit or sponge to wash? Rim cleaners or just dirty old sponge and car wash soap??? Just wanna take the unmost care of this baby and start off on the right foot. Ive read the thread on car washing techniques and its excellent, i just want to get your view on it, and see what i do and dont need for my color.

Thanks so much,

Joey

Joey, caring for white would be the same as caring for a black colored car. The only difference is that you won't notice the imperfections as easily. People often complain that lighter colors do not have that wet look as much as a just detailed darker color. The reason is usually that they have a lot of imperfections that are hindering the paints overall finish.

You always want to follow the proper washing and drying techniques. Here's a link to our washing and drying guide for a point of reference. If you're in need of some new washing products, consider looking into our Washing & Drying starter kit for everything you need to minimize adding swirls and other imperfections to your paint, while preserving any protection from a sealant or wax.

As you glide your hand over your paint, if it feels rough to the touch, chances are you can benefit from using a clay bar. This will thoroughly remove embedded contamination on your paint that does not come off from a normal wash and dry. Here's our guide on properly using a clay bar.

If you don't have many imperfections, you can skip the polishing step.

Using a glaze is optional, but often used by enthusiasts on lighter color vehicles. It helps create a layer of depth and gloss on the paint, which really helps make a lighter color pop. Glazes attempt to fill in minor imperfections, which help make your paint look in better condition than it really is. A nice option is the Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze. Easy to use and works well with the other sealants, which makes it a great option.

Protecting your paint is important and makes maintaining your vehicle significantly easier. If you're not a fan of reapplying protection too often, invest in a good sealant. A popular sealant amongst the e90 crowd is Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109. It's very easy to use, offers sharp, clear reflections, works great with the EZ-Creme Glaze and has durable protection. I'd recommend applying Jet Seal 3 times a year for complete coverage year round, then topping it with the spray on wax after washes to boost shine and protection. You can opt to top it with a paste wax as well for even more depth and gloss.

For wheels, you don't want to use an "old dirty sponge". That will create swirls and scratches on your wheels and ultimately will dull the finish. Invest in a wash mitt just for your wheels, and care for it the same as you would your paint. I'd highly recommend investing in some Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, which will properly protect your wheels from brake dust embedding into your wheels. With a quality layer of protection on your wheels, you'll be able to clean them with simply some automotive shampoo and water with ease.

That's a great start. The best advice I can recommend to you is protect as many surfaces as possible. Preventing a problem is 10x easier than correcting one. Also, get in a maintenance routine, a good rule of thumb is to wash your vehicle every 2 weeks, reapply a sealant every 4 months, reapply a wax once a month. I clay and polish 2 - 3 times a year roughly.

Congrats on your new vehicle, let me know if there's anything else I can help you with.

Originally Posted by normtrum

Hey George....one more quick question.....when I reapplied a coat of PB NB...I went over my entire care before removing....unlike the last time I did my car where I only did sections. The NB was difficult to remove...so I'm wondering is it ok to use a spray wax to remove the dried on NB...or is this not a good idea? I used to do this on my 330 a few years ago....but now I'm wondering if it's a good idea or not. Thanks!

Yes, you can use a spray on wax or quick detailer to help remove excess product from your paint. I encountered the same problem last time I used Natty's Red on my car. I thought I could apply it to the entire vehicle then go back and remove it. It didn't work out as planned and I was left with what looked like swirl marks, but was actually just excess product in the directions I applied the wax. Another option is to use ice cold distilled water and a microfiber towel, this often helps as well. Next go with NB, simply apply it 1 panel at a time and remove it, much easier that way.

Originally Posted by carrabassett786

Hey,
some lady cut me off when I had a full gas can in my trunk. As far as I could tell, the rubber trunk mat held all the gas that spilled, but after airing out my car for a day, it still reeks of gas. What can I do to clean it up?
Thanks

I'd get some plates of baking soda and stick them in your trunk when you're not driving. Take out the rubber trunk mat and degrease it and hose it down good. Consider shampooing your carpets in your trunk or use a carpet extractor. Scrub them good with a brush and vacuum it dry. You have to locate the source of the problem to eliminate the problem. You can also try some odor removal products if those methods do not pan out for you.

George

[addy85]

George... Can you move to Dallas Texas please

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by addy85

George... Can you move to Dallas Texas please

Probably not in the near future, unless you can assure me a new house will be waiting for me when I arrive

Originally Posted by Joey Babs

George youre the man!!!! Thanks for the insight and the detailed response, its much appreciated!!!!! I noticed on your site you have a sheep skin mit and a sponge mit. I was leaning towards the sheep skin but any advantage/ disadvantage of one over the other. Is the sponge mit better for the rims?? Also i was leaning toward the CG citrus wash&gloss but you had mentioned the starter kit which has the PB super slick suds. Which one should i go with, does the CG's W&G strip the wax off?? And what do you think about Wheel wax vs PB wheel sealant, which offers more protection?? Last question, for a tire dressing i was reading up on Black Fire Tire gel..... are there any other brands i should consider? Thanks George!!!!!

Sheepskin mitts are argued to be the safest wash tool available, the problem often lies in their durability. It usually only takes 1 snag on an emblem, body panel, etc. to create a small tear in them and it's often downhill from there. Foam mitts, like the Ulti-Mit, when used correctly are still pretty paint safe. The key there is used correctly. From my experience, many enthusiasts invest in the proper tools, but neglect to use them properly. The key is to let the shampoo do the cleaning, not the mitt. As the mitt is soaked in water, it will get heavier, there is no need to apply additional pressure to the mitt. Another key point is to rinse the mitt off more frequently in your rinse bucket (preferably with the Grit Guard insert). CG CWG is a great shampoo and can be used in high concentration to strip off previous protection or diluted to maintain a vehicle. Our kit utilizes Super Slick & Suds, which is an excellent maintenance shampoo, very mild, suds up nicely, preserves your protection and has great lubricity.

If you put Wheel Sealant and Wheel Wax in front of me and said pick one, I'd reach for Poorboy's Wheel Sealant in an instant. It's easier to work with, lasts longer and provides a slicker surface.

The Blackfire Tire Gel is a great option, another one to consider is Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright. Bold 'n Bright won't last quite as long and has slightly less gloss. It really comes down to the preference of the overall finish of your tire. If you're looking for a little more shine, go with the BF dressing, more on the matte side of things, Bold 'n Bright.

Thanks for the kind words, let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George

[absix]

May I just

[addy85]

well it was worth a tr