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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Car Dead/No Power
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05-20-2017, 10:11 PM | #1 |
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Car Dead/No Power
Trying to get any input on my problem. Car has no power at all, first time it died when I tried to hit the start button which caused my key fob to get stuck inside. Tried to jump the car and this allowed me to take out the key as power returned while it washooked up but as soon as I disconnected the cables it died. Took out the battery, autozone tested it saying it's in good condition. Reconnected battery seeing if maybe from having it disconnected would solve it, nothing. Looked at a couple fuses, ecu fuse looked fine, but if there's any specific ones I should be checking that can be related please let me know, also what's the best way of visually checking these fuses? . After this I found out about a recall with the main battery cable connection to the fuse box , tried moving around the cable to see if stared like others had said, nothing. Checked web for recalls said only open recall was the airbag one. Does this mean 100% they replaced that battery cable? Could it be my grounding cables? Read this could sometime not allow the car to turn on. Any input would be awesome thanks!!
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05-21-2017, 04:32 PM | #4 |
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05-23-2017, 12:41 PM | #5 |
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Called BMW NA they said the recall had been fixed already. Checked some of the ecu relay and fuses all seem to be good. I'm thinking maybe the battery distribution box that goes on top? I know that has some fuses in it that can go bad..
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05-23-2017, 12:46 PM | #6 |
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Check the alternator if it is charging the battery properly or not, it might be a bad one and thats why once you disconnected the other battery the car dies ?
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05-23-2017, 12:53 PM | #7 |
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Have you tried swapping the battery? I know Autozone tested it but the test could be faulty. If it died while starting, that seems to indicate there was a little bit of power left before the crank. What happened when you jumped it? Did it crank at all?
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05-23-2017, 02:28 PM | #8 |
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I tested it yesterday with a multimeter and it read 12.5v which is good I think. I don't have an extra battery, would it be safe to try with a smaller battery from another car? It tried to crank once I think, but yesterday I tried to jump it again to see if I could get power like the first time to check for any codes but this time when I hooked it up there was no power at all.
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05-23-2017, 06:57 PM | #9 |
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electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU Read the first PDF check to see if there voltage at the end of all the positive sides of all the hot lines going foward. Be sure the BST is intack. |
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05-24-2017, 12:25 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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05-24-2017, 01:46 PM | #12 |
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When you say no power, are you implying no accessories, no lights, windows don't go up/down...type of power loss? Or does everything work BUT it doesn't crank and such? I'd assume at this point your starter is shot. That's my guess...
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05-24-2017, 02:14 PM | #13 |
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No I mean there's is no electrical power at all. No accessories, lights etc
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05-24-2017, 04:50 PM | #14 |
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I had the B+ cable loose on fuse-box and complete power loss and it returns if you wiggle the red wire next to the fuse box.
I know you mentioned its had the recall for the repair but just wiggle the wire to test if loose again. At least you have the option of recall for the problem. In UK BMW did not honor that recall and we get it repaired out of pocket. Most of us simply modified the connector for a secure connection |
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05-24-2017, 09:37 PM | #15 | |
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05-24-2017, 11:10 PM | #16 |
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Pretty simple to check the power distribution box with a
voltmeter or (ohmmeter) The battery voltage should be at each point where a cable goes out . Its just a bunch of fuses (fusible links) See first pdf. |
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05-26-2017, 01:38 PM | #17 |
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I have a multimeter but I'm unsure how to exactly check the battery power distribution box. I see the diagram but how do I actually find the contact points to place my multimeter probes?
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05-26-2017, 02:13 PM | #19 |
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Every place a red wire goes out should be the same voltage as
the positive lug on the battery as well as the wires plugged in on the quick dissconnects along the edge closest to to the back . There is fuse strip internal to the battery distribution block its shown in the first electrical pdf. That is what you would replace if you actually had trouble not the plastic housing that contains it. There is also the explosive disconnect for the motor called the BST that could be open if it got yanked on. Don't just start buying parts and throwing them at the car trace the voltage first where do you have battery voltage and where is it absent. 12 volts at Back of JBE IN engine bay at charge points on IBS cable At the other side of the BST Last edited by ctuna; 05-26-2017 at 02:26 PM.. |
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05-27-2017, 03:04 PM | #20 |
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same things happening with me..i baught a new battery and car still doesn't turn over just long cranks. After a couple of hours sitting the battery died again! so convinced somethings draining my battery, but still doesn't make sense as in why it wouldn't turn on.
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05-27-2017, 06:14 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Two Questions: (1) What publication/source are the pdf's from (that you posted)? Bentley has some of the same info & illustrations, but that looks to be presented better. (2) Do you have a source for the fusible links alone? Bentley states "The high amperage fuses (fusible links) in the rear power distribution panel are not replaceable separately." (ambiguous as to whether you have to replace the ENTIRE Rear Power Distribution module, or just all fuses together in the link). Also I can't find them (all links together) as a separate item in RealOEM parts catalog. Thanks, George |
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05-27-2017, 07:36 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
If it cranks, IT'S TURNING OVER. (Jeez...) Let me make an assumption. You probably meant it won't RUN. "Cranking" IS "turning over". They are one and the same. Now... Back to the OP's issue... I understand there's a "one-time-use" safety device atop the battery which disconnects in case of a traumatic event (eg: accident) for safety reasons, but which can mis-trigger... Anyhow, it acts like a fusible link, but isn't as simple to replace as simply swapping a fuse. Either way, there'd be no cranking or anything else if it had failed, as it basically completely disconnects the battery electrically, for safety reasons as I mentioned. Simple to check: Look for power (using a multimeter or simple 12V 'test lamp') across battery terminals, then across jump terminals. Of you have one but not the other, check either side of the protective device. |
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