[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Hey guys, I've been having a problem with my 06 330i auto that has been coming and going for a while, but now its really beginning to tick me off. At certain times, my car just starts idling high (at abt 800-900 rpm, compared to the normal ~600) and when i accelerate, it feels like some of the power is muffed. Instead of going up smoothly to abt 2200 rpm and shifting from 2nd to 3rd, it sputters a little below 2k and it feels like the car is struggling. This power loss/struggling continues with all other gears as well.

The problem is hard to explain and happens randomly while driving but when i turn the car off for a little while and i start her up, it usually goes back to normal for a bit until this problem starts again. The issue is really noticeable now and its bugging me now. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

[mike3000fl]

fuel, spark, air

techron injector cleaner.

new plugs.

air filter and clean the MAF.

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by mike3000fl

fuel, spark, air

techron injector cleaner.

new plugs.

air filter and clean the MAF.

i just changed the plugs and the cabin and air filters recently but i will look into the other things you mentioned. Did you have similar problem?

[N0OS3]

do you have any mods done to your car? like a cold air intake?

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by lync9763

do you have any mods done to your car? like a cold air intake?

no engine mods whatsoever

[MaximusJ]

Originally Posted by mike3000fl

fuel, spark, air

techron injector cleaner.

new plugs.

air filter and clean the MAF.

^this

And since you've done some work already, around the filters, I would go straight to the plugs. It is most unlikely that the maf is dirty since you have your oem airbox (no oil on the filter and the oem paper filter is good at not letting a lot of stuff, including air, coming in the engine.)

Did you try getting your gas somewhere else?

[ECSTuning]

I'd check the plugs (even though you just did them, check and see how they look) and start getting my fuel at different gas station. If you are running a low grade gas, try moving to a higher octane fuel.

ECS Tuning

[MaximusJ]

Missed the part stating that he changed the plugs.

I would check for the coil packs. Got any code triggered?

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by ECSTuning

I'd check the plugs (even though you just did them, check and see how they look) and start getting my fuel at different gas station. If you are running a low grade gas, try moving to a higher octane fuel.

ECS Tuning

Originally Posted by MaximusJ

Missed the part stating that he changed the plugs.

I would check for the coil packs. Got any code triggered?

i just got my plugs replaced over the summer. this problem was still happening then and even when i changed the plugs, the problem didnt go away

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by MaximusJ

Missed the part stating that he changed the plugs.

I would check for the coil packs. Got any code triggered?

before i got the plugs changed, i had a misfire and the CEL was triggered. i checked the coils then and all of them seemed fine so the plugs did the trick. changed my air and cabin filters as well and the misfire problem was solved, the guys had nothing to say abt this problem tho

[fdriller9]

Hows your battery? A weak battery can stress the coil packs.

Id also check your vanos solenoids. I had an intermittent shutter on start up that was due to a sticking vanos solenoid on the intake side.

Dealer replaced both (intake and exhaust) under CPO.

You can clean them with compressed air. Just blow some air threw them. Its a temporary fix but it can help you diagnose it. Normally, a fault is stored but thereare cases where a fault will not store.

[mike3000fl]

plugs were gapped correctly?

you said the air filter was changed, is the intake hose replaced correctly, no leaks?

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by mike3000fl

plugs were gapped correctly?

you said the air filter was changed, is the intake hose replaced correctly, no leaks?

yes everything was replaced properly. this problem was still present before the replacement of all these things though.

i was told to change my battery by this winter thoo...

[juld0zer]

Old thread i know, but my 130i does exactly the same. I have narrowed it down to the VANOS solenoids. It only does it with genuine BMW solenoids. I put in a set of Dorman solenoids and it never did it. Borrowed a pair of BMW solenoids and it started doing it again. It never did it with one Dorman and one BMW solenoid.

Have you ever removed the solenoids and accidentally or intentionally swapped them? They are identical but in theory they will each have spent most of their life moving in one direction (normally, both cams are not advanced or retarded together)

[bluewater328]

Checked your DISA's? Lot's of people don't know they have a problem since it doesn't always throw a hard code.

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Checked your DISA's? Lot's of people don't know they have a problem since it doesn't always throw a hard code.

Not yet, but the issue is easily reproducible by using genuine (used) solenoids. I haven't got a set of brand new genuine solenoids to test with but it could be a sign of pending failure?
I also had issues with the Dorman solenoids (pinging and clacking noises from the valvetrain, jerking and juddering). They are not as tight fitting as BMW solenoids and there is no oring between the solenoid and the bore in the head as part of the design so if they are slightly loose fitting in the bore then oil could be escaping internally.
There are mainly positive reviews on the Dormans though.

I never had any VANOS codes either. Just driveability issues. I think it is easier to generate codes on automatic cars because the gas pedal is not constantly released and depressed. Mine is a manual

[R.Thillman]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Not yet, but the issue is easily reproducible by using genuine (used) solenoids. I haven't got a set of brand new genuine solenoids to test with but it could be a sign of pending failure?
I also had issues with the Dorman solenoids (pinging and clacking noises from the valvetrain, jerking and juddering). They are not as tight fitting as BMW solenoids and there is no oring between the solenoid and the bore in the head as part of the design so if they are slightly loose fitting in the bore then oil could be escaping internally.
There are mainly positive reviews on the Dormans though.

I never had any VANOS codes either. Just driveability issues. I think it is easier to generate codes on automatic cars because the gas pedal is not constantly released and depressed. Mine is a manual

Pull your ingnition coil connector s with the engine running to make sure they are good just to get the variable out of the way. Seems like either a bad disa valve or ESS. download INPA on bimmer geeks website and you probably can diagnose your vehicle alot easier. 3SIM does have a dip in powerband around 3k so maybe you are feeling that? best of luck!

[juld0zer]

The juddering can be felt maintaining speed at 60kmh in 5th gear.
The jerking on take off is so bad it is causing the DMF to chatter.

I replaced the ESS when I did the rocker cover gasket and also a set of Bosch coils as some had torn jackets which were causing arcs inside the magnesium rocker cover bores.

For now I will just keep using the test pair of BMW solenoids. The sporadic high idle doesn't bother me much. It still drives well and goes hard!

I will need to drive the car more to get a feel of this 3SIM dip. Is there some specific conditions to recreate to feel it? I just find it revs up so quick that I don't actually spend much time in that range. I do notice another clack from the valvetrain around 4000-4500rpm though.

I also have the latest software from BMW and access to ISTA. Sometimes I do prefer INPA but i just need to get my cable back. Is there a specific VANOS adaptation reset in INPA or is it part of the DME adaptations like in ISTA?

The other thing I remember is each time it has idled high, I didn't quite let the fast idle complete before driving off. Either that, or it never completed the fast idle warm up phase as in it never actually dropped the RPM down to 650

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

I also have the latest software from BMW and access to ISTA. Sometimes I do prefer INPA but i just need to get my cable back. Is there a specific VANOS adaptation reset in INPA or is it part of the DME adaptations like in ISTA?

Same

Really sounding more like DISA given the inflection points. But dunno pull shadow codes.

[juld0zer]

Why would a duff DISA flap cause the idle to go up? The DISA just changes the air path so unless there is a crack in the manifold along the idle air path, it shouldn't affect it

It's almost as if it is a commanded function of the DME. I can almost make it happen reliably by not allowing the fast idle to complete before driving off.

Is it normal for the early N52 to take almost 3-5 minutes to come to normal idle speed on a cold start? I thought modern engines had heated o2 sensors that cuts down the warm up phase?

For the records, no faults logged.

[JonOhh]

I know this thread is old...and I'm reviving it...but:

Mine has always done this (I've had it for about 10k miles) and I'm also very certain it's a DME commanded high idle...but I don't understand why and what it's purpose is.

Does anyone know either from experience or digging around in the DME why it would do this? I imagine only MT cars do this, since it would be pretty unpredictable to randomly push against the torque converter a bit harder while stopped.

[juld0zer]

Do you guys have anything plugged into the OBD port? Is the factory OBD port cap on? (not the flap. The actual port cap)