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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > Any Air Con Guru's about?



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      07-26-2014, 07:52 AM   #23
mk2vr6
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Thanks mate.
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      08-20-2014, 11:59 PM   #24
Pierre26
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AC breakdown

Quote:
Originally Posted by mk2vr6 View Post
I had my 330d re gassed earlier today and it held pressure fine no leaks etc and has the correct amount of gas in now but no cold air. The Air con man reckons either a pressure switch or compressor itself.

Is there anyway to tell either or? The clutch itself is spinning on the pump, and switching the Aircon button on and off makes no difference either.

Come to think of it even when low on refrigerant most systems will still put out a bit of cold air. However if something isn't working on the system I'm sure there are failsafes built in to stop the pump from compressing...

Thanks,
Tony.
I have exactly the sames symptoms ! AC stopped brutally, now when motor is hot, blowing more heat air than turning it to off.
BMW did a diag: error code = 00A72F (compressor clutch).
Like yours, the pulley is running, except the center ... so thinking problem founded, But:
When I test the solenoid it says 7 Ohms (meter-battery charged).
And when I put 12 Volts on it, no sound...
Second problem : on the wire arriving on the compressor (N°3) and then to the solenoid: only 1 Volt, the others are good : center is negative and white +12 (N°1).
I also looked via INPA, the sensor said 9 bars and approved then when reading at the gas check station.
++ there is no error displayed on INPA ..
They will check more on next Sept (now holidays), will tell the news ...
What's about you ?

Last edited by Pierre26; 08-21-2014 at 12:12 PM.. Reason: resistance value corrected
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      08-21-2014, 01:11 AM   #25
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When you press the Ac button to turn it on, does it click? or any attempt to click ? (the AC pump im talking about , not the switch) IF it doesn't even attempt to click- try the pressure switch. You can test the resistance with a typical multimeter. Switch = cheap . compresser/pump = ouch
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      08-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #26
Pierre26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Touringchris View Post
When you press the Ac button to turn it on, does it click? or any attempt to click ? (the AC pump im talking about , not the switch) IF it doesn't even attempt to click- try the pressure switch. You can test the resistance with a typical multimeter. Switch = cheap . compresser/pump = ouch
No ANY CLICK of the clutch, even when wiring it directly on the 12V neighberhood.
I review the values, 7 Ohms on the magnetic clutch after calibration.
On the pressure switch : 3 wires for 3 contacts ...
On the switch, between N° 1-2 = 31 Ohms, all the others are zero.
On the wire : N°2 is 4 Volts, all the others are 0.

And don't have any data about it (don't have ista-d).
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      08-21-2014, 01:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibz82 View Post
I'm not sure what our cars have in terms of ac setup, but sounds like the condenser/evaporator!
If it has one It just needs to be emptied!
Does anyone know how this is done??
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      04-17-2015, 11:19 PM   #28
Pierre26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre26 View Post
I have exactly the sames symptoms ! AC stopped brutally, now when motor is hot, blowing more heat air than turning it to off.
BMW did a diag: error code = 00A72F (compressor clutch).
Like yours, the pulley is running, except the center ... so thinking problem founded, But:
When I test the solenoid it says 7 Ohms (meter-battery charged).
And when I put 12 Volts on it, no sound...
Second problem : on the wire arriving on the compressor (N°3) and then to the solenoid: only 1 Volt, the others are good : center is negative and white +12 (N°1).
I also looked via INPA, the sensor said 9 bars and approved then when reading at the gas check station.
++ there is no error displayed on INPA ..
They will check more on next Sept (now holidays), will tell the news ...
What's about you ?
End of the story and why :
I discovered that upper the compressor oïl flows from the bearing pipe of one of the two turbo !
So i removed the compressor clutch (10mm bolt) and then the pulley (removing the snap ring) and used a sand-paper on the two faces and then rub them each-other by rotating manually.
I recovered the package on the head of the compressor (the solenoid was good). The hard work was to put the belt because there isn't tensioner, so I putted the belt on the compressor pulley and engaged the other part on the pulley of the motor (upper-side) and did a short start (with the starter).
Done ! now the car is cooling well ...
So why BM does bended pipes in rubber ? loosing oil all over the motor at he lower parts like the compressor ?
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      04-18-2015, 02:28 AM   #29
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I had similar situation on mine, despite all looking well the pulley on the aircon pump had detached from the inside although was still in the correct position externally.
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      04-19-2015, 04:00 PM   #30
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I'm too experiencing a similar problem, the passenger vents blow cold air both with and without A/c on. The driver side blows cold without a/c and as soon as its turned on it starts to blow warm air. It was re-gassed 8 months ago and I have noticed it makes a hissing noise and a weird noise when accelerating... has anyone got any thoughts?
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