[Ansonlai]

Just about to make my final decision between a 325i and 335i

2009 325i 50000km driven, M sport, standard 325i option (such as business sat Nav, xenon, etc)

2008 335i 90000km driven, M sport, standard 335i option too.

Price is just about $2000 more for 335i, I use the car for daily driving, not very into modification except exterior mod.

I am quite into the 335i, just want to know LASTLY,
For the 335i, is it somewhat in "high mileage" already if I intend to keep it for another 4-5 years?

Maintenance costs in the near future (one year time)? consider its 90000km driven, is it typical km for the turbo breaking down, or any pump or something?

If I am not into hp increase mod, will I waste this 335i? Feel like it is a car for mod when I check out the forum or web site which talking about it....


Something extra,
How about your average fuel consumption? Around 12L/100km?

Can I change the iDrive controller to a CIC version with all the buttons working properly? (That 335i is CCC pro sat Nav)

If there is anyone who can upload the performance exhaust for both cars, I will be grateful as I will do this mod and want to know how does each sound like. (Hear a few on YouTube but the sound in each clip is different.....checked the clip is the same standard spec as to AUS already.)


Thanks a lot in advanced.

[_ink]

Things to consider with the 335i which you will have to replace in the near future:

Spark plugs
Coils
Injectors
High pressure fuel pump

Factor these into your 335i purchase as they are not cheap to replace if they all happen in the se year.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by _ink

Things to consider with the 335i which you will have to replace in the near future:

Spark plugs
Coils
Injectors
High pressure fuel pump

Factor these into your 335i purchase as they are not cheap to replace if they all happen in the se year.

Most of the aforementioned items can require replacement on the 325i also

[fo55il]

you'll notice most of the 335's are for sale around similar Km's - 90-120K km's. there's a reason for this, its not coincidental.

[kaitan]

Sometimes I find it funny how cars over here in australia are considered high KM when they reach 100'k within 4-5 years of age. Other countries 100'k is nothing and cars are going strong even when they reach 250,000 km as long it's well maintain and regularly service.

[Michael BD]

As soon as I first test drove my 335i, I was sold. The power is just so much greater than other 6 cyclinder stock BM's (not M series).

If everything else is equal, ie condition of vehicles I would buy the 335i.

[Ninjaoz]

As long as the car has been regularly serviced and looked after, it wouldn't matter whether it has done 50,000km or 90,000km. Personally I would go for 335i or wait for a better 335i with lower mileage.

If you are so concerns with the relability, why don't you get a pre-purchase inspection from a BMW mechanic?

[skidz]

I am surprised no one has commented on the 'no mods for me' and the 'i want a PE' ?? forget the pe just get a jb4 the 335 sounds pretty good stock on WOT.

[kaitan]

If all being equal only difference is highway K's vs City driving K's. I would take the highway K's as there are less wear and tear on the engine and interior. Sometimes you'll find cars that have low mileage but yet their interior leather seat wear does not justify the mileage of the car. Someone once told me that getting a better interior condition ie leather seat is better cause if there is problem with engine that can be fixed but if the interior is worn then it makes the car looks old and not well taken care of and likely the interior is diffucult to change/ replaced.

Main story is just check the wear and tear of the interior and also the service log book. If everything checks out then if should be fine. As a buyer you can also tell whether a car is taken care of just by talking to the owner. It gives you and indication of what kind of owner is he/she? Hoped this helps.

[_ink]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Most of the aforementioned items can require replacement on the 325i also

You could say that about any car that you purchase.

Being a FI car, these components will wear faster and with a tune even more so.

[Pommie335i]

Hi All,

I am a first time poster - long time forum stalker (I will write an intro as soon as my account lets me), but I thought I would chip in to this post as I have recently owned both a 325i and a 335i (both M Sport Coupes)

Coming from a Golf GTI I was looking forward to 'stepping up' to the 3 series, and to be fair it was a step up to the 325i. However, driving in the 325i left me feeling slightly disappointed with the lack of oooph. Don't get me wrong, the 325's ~200bhp engine is kinda quick compared to many other cars on the road, but it just doesn't *feel* quick. You need to get the rev's up high to get any sort of performance and personally, I don't like driving through Sydney streets at 4k rpm with people looking at you like WFT is he doing.

Also, (and please excuse me for a moment of selfishness) it bugged me that cars a fraction of the price were quicker of the mark than the 325.

So, 6 months after jumping in to the 325, i jumped out of it, and into the 335.

Never.Looked.Back.

You guys will all have more experience than me, so I won't lecture on, but I will simply note that the power kicking in at 1,500-1,800rpm is much more usable and fun for the daily drive.

Look forward to meeting you all soon!

Gaz

[BMJ]

Originally Posted by Pommie335i

Hi All,

I am a first time poster - long time forum stalker (I will write an intro as soon as my account lets me), but I thought I would chip in to this post as I have recently owned both a 325i and a 335i (both M Sport Coupes)

Coming from a Golf GTI I was looking forward to 'stepping up' to the 3 series, and to be fair it was a step up to the 325i. However, driving in the 325i left me feeling slightly disappointed with the lack of oooph. Don't get me wrong, the 325's ~200bhp engine is kinda quick compared to many other cars on the road, but it just doesn't *feel* quick. You need to get the rev's up high to get any sort of performance and personally, I don't like driving through Sydney streets at 4k rpm with people looking at you like WFT is he doing.

Also, (and please excuse me for a moment of selfishness) it bugged me that cars a fraction of the price were quicker of the mark than the 325.

So, 6 months after jumping in to the 325, i jumped out of it, and into the 335.

Never.Looked.Back.

You guys will all have more experience than me, so I won't lecture on, but I will simply note that the power kicking in at 1,500-1,800rpm is much more usable and fun for the daily drive.

Look forward to meeting you all soon!

Gaz

welcome Gaz,

Nice post..... wait till u get a tune on. the extra TOQ is just fantastic.

[Dan_335]

Firstly Gaz, buy a JB4 right now! The difference is phenomenal for such a small outlay!

For the actual question, I bought a 335 manual with 90,000kms, not as many to choose from with the stick. I looked at a fair few, the conclusion I drew was that although kms do count for a lot, the previous owner counts for about 300% more.

The car I bought was ex-lease, full service history, new fuel pump, new water pump, unmodified and ex-lease.

Which brings me to my next observation, the reason a lot of 335i cars are for sale is that most likely they are ex-lease, which would indicate to get a good tax break you needed 25k a year before the change last year, hence 2008-2010 cars with around 100000kms on the clock.

Now for my buying tips:

1. Ask the owner lots of questions about what has been done/fixed

2. Check the service history, doesn't have to be bmw, however it does have to be a reputable bmw mechanic, research who serviced it

3. Have a good look at the interior, generally a good guide on how the owner cares for the car both inside and out including servicing

4. Expect servicing costs regardless of age

5. Buy the 335, no question.

[Brule]

Get a 335. spark plug, coils, injectors cost bugger all. 335 is such a joy to drive. I still get excited every time. you will be dissapointed with a 325. 335 solid smooth power stock.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by _ink

You could say that about any car that you purchase.

My sentiments exactly

[_ink]

^^ More prevalent on our 335i's, and the most annoying thing about it is only having OEM parts as an option and no aftermarket ones to yield more gains.

[Ansonlai]

Thanks all!

In fact, I am more interested in the 335i too.
The one that I am looking is actually this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/de...-335I-15232071

Have anyone viewed this car before? Or know anything about it please?

The dealership I Prestige auto trader in NSW, anyone know if there is anything bad practices about them?
Their website:
http://carsales.prestigeautotraders....php/our_stock/

In regards to the car, well, actually, I am in WA, couldn't really test drive it, I rely all information from the dealer, not sure if they know anything about previous only, but from the photos, I think the interior is ok, I guess it is mainly highway drive? Or would you have any opinion to its interior? The seats look quite new.

Will organise a pre inspection for the car by any independent mechanic there in NSW, any recommendation will be appreciated.

The dealer is asking me to make a deposit tomorrow, so, urgently need some advice from you guys as you know the car well.

Thanks in advanced!

[DR-JEKL]

Hmm I would prefer to buy something this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...2138654/?Cr=13

I would call him and say I have $46k cash pending vehicle inspection, then once i had it i would buy a mtec rep bodykit painted and fitted, new m3 steering wheel and for $3K spent you have a 335i with low kays which will have a much better resale in 4 years time with 50k kays added onto the odo (80k vs 150k kays)

[Ansonlai]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Hmm I would prefer to buy something this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...2138654/?Cr=13

I would call him and say I have $46k cash pending vehicle inspection, then once i had it i would buy a mtec rep bodykit painted and fitted, new m3 steering wheel and for $3K spent you have a 335i with low kays which will have a much better resale in 4 years time with 50k kays added onto the odo (80k vs 150k kays)

Thanks DR JEKL, but that is not a M sport, and I want a black in color.

I thank for your suggestion, but what about the car that I mentioned?
Do you have any opinion regarding that?

The dealer is asking for a deposit from me tomorrow, and generally, I am fine with that car, but just not sure if the car is in general, a good deal.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Ansonlai

Thanks DR JEKL, but that is not a M sport, and I want a black in color.

I thank for your suggestion, but what about the car that I mentioned?
Do you have any opinion regarding that?

The dealer is asking for a deposit from me tomorrow, and generally, I am fine with that car, but just not sure if the car is in general, a good deal.

Only difference with m sport is aero kit, different shocks/springs, black hood lining, steering wheel and gear knob afaik.

A cleaner car with much less kays at the end of the day is the one to take imo, and im sure the majority of other 335i owners will most likely agree.

I did notice a few small flaws on that car advertised in terms of wear and tear (they have it as sold now on carsales??)

The drivers side seat bolster had scuffs/wear, rear rim was gutter rashed and really requires repair (what are the other three like?) rear seat the plastic cupholder divider area seems extremely worn and appeared as though something had been spilled,front bar did display signs of holograms defects (it require a 4 stage polish/detail most likely)

Whilst these might seem like a few moot comments, if you can see these defects in the pictures the car might be worse in person...

Don't let these guys pressure you into placing a deposit on the car!!! They will BS and tell you that they have other guys interested etc etc once you place a deposit on the car you will struggle to get that $ back if it goes pear shaped.

[Ansonlai]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Only difference with m sport is aero kit, different shocks/springs, black hood lining, steering wheel and gear knob afaik.

A cleaner car with much less kays at the end of the day is the one to take imo, and im sure the majority of other 335i owners will most likely agree.

I did notice a few small flaws on that car advertised in terms of wear and tear (they have it as sold now on carsales??)

The drivers side seat bolster had scuffs/wear, rear rim was gutter rashed and really requires repair (what are the other three like?) rear seat the plastic cupholder divider area seems extremely worn and appeared as though something had been spilled,front bar did display signs of holograms defects (it require a 4 stage polish/detail most likely)

Whilst these might seem like a few moot comments, if you can see these defects in the pictures the car might be worse in person...

Don't let these guys pressure you into placing a deposit on the car!!! They will BS and tell you that they have other guys interested etc etc once you place a deposit on the car you will struggle to get that $ back if it goes pear shaped.

Thanks!

Yes, I did notice the rear cup holder part, there looks like a stain, but not sure how serious it is.

For the driver side bolster, do you mean the bolster for the hand? I can't see the wear?

For the rims, I saw some threads talking about the reliability of 225 rims is not too good, cracking happens, but does that gutter rashed on this car really needs to be repair? I guess that won't affect the safety of the car.....or will it make the rims even more fragile to cracking since the 225 seems not reliable from all the threads.

There is something I do not understand however...."front bar display bar signs of hologram defects", may I ask which part are you referring to please?

Yes, I won't place the deposit that easily, I email them back, stating the deposit will not be made until I have a report from an independent mechanic report, if they persist it, I may consider going with a deposit subject to a satisfactory inspection report. Hope that saves me if there is anything going wrong from the report.

[Ansonlai]

One more thing DR JEKL, I understand the low kay does matter, but I guess 88000km is still acceptable?
But if it is high kay car, after I bought it, is there anything I can do to make the car "cleaner" as you said? Engine flush helps?