[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Cost of kit?

PM'd you details.

[Frediesel]

I saw a little bit of oil after driving only 20 miles with the catch can installed.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by Frediesel

I saw a little bit of oil after driving only 20 miles with the catch can installed.

Glad it is working out for you

Check the can after 2,000 miles. You may be surprised.
Keep an eye on all the connections and fittings, including the filter in the can. Good luck.

[BB_cuda]

I purchased kit from 135i_vs and it arrived Friday 11/21. Saturday (11/22) I set out to install the kit. It was fairly straight forward to install the first time. I test drove it and after about 15 miles, my SES light came on. I wasn't sure if this was due to something happening coincidentally or if i had not connected something back correctly. I went over it carefully and decided to go back to OEM temporarily while looking for any screw ups I might have made. OEM setup did not retrigger SES. So, I was relieved it was somthing within the install itself and not anything else that i constantly read about here.

I went to church today (11/23). Afterwards, I thought i would give this a 2nd try. I feel the SES was related to one of the electrical connectors related to the 4.25" tube mentioned/pictured at very beginning of this thread. I carefully felt of each when I was switching back to OEM. The upper one felt a little bit loose.

There is not much slack between the upper and lower connector in the skinny electrical harness. I looked at trying to locate the can where EGR cooler was but the can wouldn't fit up in there so I stuck with his plan of circling the AN10 hose around the 4" diameter inlet black flexible hose. The inlet and outlet elbows/plastic transition/hose assy he supplied point outboard and crowd the skinny little harness. It is sort of a trick to route the hose without putting too much strain on the upper or lower electrical connections. I had to experiment with which way to route the harness to provide more slack.

I had some trouble squeezing the AN 10 hose between the airbox and the 4" flexible inlet hose. The inlet to can hose had to be slightly smashed to get it to fit through. I think perhaps I might need to shorten the inlet hose 1 or 1.5" inch. It sort of gathered up at that pinch point. The outlet hose was correct length. After putting all back together again, no SES light this time. I drove it about 2 miles and brought it back home.

So, I will do as the others and wait about 2000 miles and take a peek in the can.

My verdict is the can is a nice unit and he has put the parts together to do it up nice. I did use some clear heat shrink to keep the nylon down flat on the ends as it frays up where its cut at the ends. I couldn't bring myself to try to take a match to it to fuse it. I'm sure it would have looked crappy. The heat shrink did the job fine. Even though he didn't feel it was necessary I added some extra hose clamps where the elbows connect to the plastic nipples he supplied. They fit real tight making oyu think the clamps wouldn't be necessary. After fighting with the hoses to get between the airbox and 4" flexible hose inlet, the nipple had pulled away from the 90° elbow.

Perhaps he has a slightly different route (relative to the airbox) for the AN10 hoses than I used so I will point at me rather than his kit. My can appears to be slightly further inboard than his photos earlier in this thread.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

My verdict is the can is a nice unit and he has put the parts together to do it up nice. I did use some clear heat shrink to keep the nylon down flat on the ends as it frays up where its cut at the ends. I couldn't bring myself to try to take a match to it to fuse it. I'm sure it would have looked crappy. The heat shrink They fit real tight making oyu think the clamps wouldn't be necessary. After fighting with the hoses to get between the airbox and 4" flexible hose inlet, the nipple had pulled away from the 90° elbow.

Perhaps he has a slightly different route (relative to the airbox) for the AN10 hoses than I used so I will point at me rather than his kit. My can appears to be slightly further inboard than his photos earlier in this thread.

Glad you got the install done.
As you can see, the M57 engine bay is cramped, very little room to work with.
Good idea to install clamps at elbow to hose coupler, if felt needed, as there is little room to even get clamps in there.
The tight fitting of the hoses to the lower part of the air box helps keep things in place.
SES was probably triggered because your connector was probably loose, crankcase ventilation is monitored in this car.

Now, let's see how much blow by oil you collect after 2,000 miles.

[BB_cuda]

I trimmed 3/4" off of the inlet hose. A ceramic "red" wheel on a dremel rotary cutter went through the AN-10 hose like butter. I re-heat shrinked the new cut. This allowed the inlet hose to not have extra length that was kinking right where i didn't want it to (close to the inboard wall of the airbox). All went back together fine. I unscrewed the can and looked in and already see a light coating of oil in bottom after about 17 miles.

EGR corked and less oil going into intake now. 2 ingredients to the pudding in the intake now greatly reduced. I can't do anything about oil that comes in through turbo seals. Talk to you guys in about 2000 miles with an update (35,208 miles now).

[sergiy'd]

it would be nice to see a photo of your clean set up

[BB_cuda]

My photos are hardly different than 135i_vs and another poster as well. Here they are but i'm only showing can end (not connection to CCV tube and turbo inlet).
Resized photos now attached.

In the 2nd photo, you can see my EGR cooler bypass hose at very top of picture.

[Yozh]

Thats a great spot to put it and realistically the only one that minimized the hose length if you want to keep the stock air box. Did you fix the can itself somehow? Sorry if I have missed it.

[Mark M]

Yeah I admit I am a little jealous of this clean setup. My Burger Motorsport catch can would be too large to fit there and is currently over on the left side strut bar. But the long run of hose to get there has resulted in oil pooling which is not ideal.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I purchased kit from 135i_vs and it arrived Friday 11/21. Saturday (11/22) I set out to install the kit. It was fairly straight forward to install the first time. I test drove it and after about 15 miles, my SES light came on. I wasn't sure if this was due to something happening coincidentally or if i had not connected something back correctly. I went over it carefully and decided to go back to OEM temporarily while looking for any screw ups I might have made. OEM setup did not retrigger SES. So, I was relieved it was somthing within the install itself and not anything else that i constantly read about here.

I went to church today (11/23). Afterwards, I thought i would give this a 2nd try. I feel the SES was related to one of the electrical connectors related to the 4.25" tube mentioned/pictured at very beginning of this thread. I carefully felt of each when I was switching back to OEM. The upper one felt a little bit loose.

There is not much slack between the upper and lower connector in the skinny electrical harness. I looked at trying to locate the can where EGR cooler was but the can wouldn't fit up in there so I stuck with his plan of circling the AN10 hose around the 4" diameter inlet black flexible hose. The inlet and outlet elbows/plastic transition/hose assy he supplied point outboard and crowd the skinny little harness. It is sort of a trick to route the hose without putting too much strain on the upper or lower electrical connections. I had to experiment with which way to route the harness to provide more slack.

I had some trouble squeezing the AN 10 hose between the airbox and the 4" flexible inlet hose. The inlet to can hose had to be slightly smashed to get it to fit through. I think perhaps I might need to shorten the inlet hose 1 or 1.5" inch. It sort of gathered up at that pinch point. The outlet hose was correct length. After putting all back together again, no SES light this time. I drove it about 2 miles and brought it back home.

So, I will do as the others and wait about 2000 miles and take a peek in the can.

My verdict is the can is a nice unit and he has put the parts together to do it up nice. I did use some clear heat shrink to keep the nylon down flat on the ends as it frays up where its cut at the ends. I couldn't bring myself to try to take a match to it to fuse it. I'm sure it would have looked crappy. The heat shrink did the job fine. Even though he didn't feel it was necessary I added some extra hose clamps where the elbows connect to the plastic nipples he supplied. They fit real tight making oyu think the clamps wouldn't be necessary. After fighting with the hoses to get between the airbox and 4" flexible hose inlet, the nipple had pulled away from the 90° elbow.

Perhaps he has a slightly different route (relative to the airbox) for the AN10 hoses than I used so I will point at me rather than his kit. My can appears to be slightly further inboard than his photos earlier in this thread.

Today I installed the can and had the exact same experience.

BB_cuda, did you happen to pull the codes you triggered during the first test drive?

After dropping the airbox back in place, the plastic fitting on my outlet tube had also pulled away from the 90 degree elbow. A clamp here may be a good idea.

[BB_cuda]

I did not pull any codes. My CCV plumbing didn't come apart though (it did slip some but not all the way open). I'm presuming my code was the electric clip thing loosing continuity.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

Today I installed the can and had the exact same experience.

BB_cuda, did you happen to pull the codes you triggered during the first test drive?

After dropping the airbox back in place, the plastic fitting on my outlet tube had also pulled away from the 90 degree elbow. A clamp here may be a good idea.

Where you able to figure out what caused the codes? Shouldn't get any codes from this catch can installation kit, other than a connector coming loose during install.

I agree, good idea to install a clamp at the elbow, since everyone's routing of the hoses will be slightly different.

PM me if you have any more questions.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Where you able to figure out what caused the codes? Shouldn't get any codes from this catch can installation kit, other than a connector coming loose during install.

I agree, good idea to install a clamp at the elbow, since everyone's routing of the hoses will be slightly different.

PM me if you have any more questions.

I haven't. I checked all of the connectors and they're all plugged in. I'll be able to inspect it more over the weekend and going into next week as I'm out of town at the moment. I did check the connection at the elbow and it has remained dry without a clamp, but I'll put one on there just in case.

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I did not pull any codes. My CCV plumbing didn't come apart though (it did slip some but not all the way open). I'm presuming my code was the electric clip thing loosing continuity.

Yeah, mine did not come apart either, just slid out a bit as opposed to being fully inserted.

Thanks for the info. The code that popped up for me was P0520 (oil pressure sensor/switch circuit), along with a bunch of U-codes - U2e20, U2802, U0d02, U1202, and U1400. I'm not sure if they are related; it could be unrelated and just coincidental. I'm going to have it checked with Autologic on Monday to diagnose further.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

I haven't. I checked all of the connectors and they're all plugged in. I'll be able to inspect it more over the weekend and going into next week as I'm out of town at the moment. I did check the connection at the elbow and it has remained dry without a clamp, but I'll put one on there just in case.



Yeah, mine did not come apart either, just slid out a bit as opposed to being fully inserted.

Thanks for the info. The code that popped up for me was P0520 (oil pressure sensor/switch circuit), along with a bunch of U-codes - U2e20, U2802, U0d02, U1202, and U1400. I'm not sure if they are related; it could be unrelated and just coincidental. I'm going to have it checked with Autologic on Monday to diagnose further.

I just wanted to update this and say that I don't believe the codes are related to the oil catch can install, at all.

I got an opportunity over the weekend to check the codes using ISTA-D (vs my generic OBD2 scanner) and they are all for unrelated items.

[simionescud]

the part is 13717808158 -- check ECS they have the best price (i had to change mine) and is not just the hose (it comes with the electrical connectors)

Originally Posted by adriang

135i would you know the part number or can you point me to the part diagram of that piece which you measured?

has "bmw 586509 10 ro" on it

[adriang]

thanks for your response!

[9mmkungfu]

Ah sweet, thanks. I broke that hose when I installed the catch can. It's a little less at Husker, btw:

http://www.huskerparts.com/parts/ind...&siteid=215771

[dumalei]

Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu

Ah sweet, thanks. I broke that hose when I installed the catch can. It's a little less at Husker, btw:

http://www.huskerparts.com/parts/ind...&siteid=215771

Do I still need this if I have the tune with EGR, SCR and DPF deleted?

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by dumalei

Do I still need this if I have the tune with EGR, SCR and DPF deleted?

The catch can prevents blow by (engine oil+soot) to get recirculated into the intake stream.

ERG block prevents Exhaust gases + soot to be recirculated into the intake stream.

I would think a catch can installation would help more with preventing excessive carbon build up, as oil is not being introduced causing a sticky situation.

I kept EGR intact for 2 reasons: Warranty purposes. Engine warms up a lot faster.

[dumalei]

approximately how much does it cost to install the oil catch can?

[135i_vs_]

PM'd you the details.