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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > First Time ONR user. Wow!!



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      10-05-2009, 10:26 PM   #23
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Makes for a nice clay lube too.
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      10-05-2009, 10:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKay335i View Post
Interesting. But now I have a few questions.

1. How well does it work on the wheels and/or what should or get for cleaning the wheels without having a hose around.

2. Wash and then dry or is there no need to dry since its not supposed to leave water spots?

3. How much do I need to wash my car? The stuffs a little pricey plus the fact I'd need to have it shipped.
You can use it to wash the weeks.

The technique is wipe a panel down with a wet sponge and then you dry that section with micro fiber towel before you move to the next section so there is little to no chance of water spots.

If you buy the car wash at the local store then it may be more expensive but since I buy stuff from a detailed image anyway shipping costs are not a factor for me. Since you only use 2 oz per wash it is cheaper than any of the premium car wash shampoos that are out there. The other advantage financially is with only 8 oz of ONR you can make a gallon of quick detailer which is incredibly cheap in comparison to any quick detailer on the market.
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      10-05-2009, 11:34 PM   #25
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Interesting. I think I may just have to pick up some. Or go to your house
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      10-05-2009, 11:44 PM   #26
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You can come by an give it a try. PM me if you want.

Tom
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      10-06-2009, 01:10 AM   #27
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Maybe one day. I'm in optometry school in Glendale so I'm pretty much stuck at home studying all day and night. Every day and night. I do appreciate the offer. I'll hopefully have some time in November before I go back to NY for a couple weeks.
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      10-06-2009, 10:03 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328i View Post
Make sure you are using at least 1 oz. per 2 gallons. I believe the cap on the instructions that they are talking about is from the 32 oz. bottle not the gallon size, so anyone that has a gallon size should make sure you measure out a proper amount. If you have hard water add a little more than recommended.
Believe it or not, I have measured the cap from both the 8oz and the 128oz. Even though it doesn't look it, they are very close to the same volume.
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      10-06-2009, 10:09 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK View Post
For heavily soiled areas, you can maintain peace of mind by using a trigger spray bottle, like this one at Detailed Image, or you can get them at Costco or Wal-mart or whatever. Fill it with some the ONR solution from your bucket and spray the heavily soiled panels prior to using the sponge. If you are careful, you don't need this (I didn't use a spray bottle in the link above), but it helps. I use one now.
+1. I use a trigger bottle for clay lube but I really prefer a garden/bug sprayer for a pre-wash when its real dirty (i.e weeks worth of rain). I use a 3 gallon but you can get them as small as 1 gallon from Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, etc. The water is very hard here, so I usually use distilled in the bottle but tap for the bucket.
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      10-06-2009, 10:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pruettfan View Post
As evidenced by the extreme care you take with your car when washing there is no method of washing that would cause absolutely no marring. That is why you use wax or a sealant to protect your clear coat. What I have seen in my minimal experience with this product is that it is very effective at removing dirt without having to rub on the car with any effort. One of my issues with conventional methods is that regardless of water pressure used you cannot avoid a situation where soap and a sponge or mitt are being rubbed against a dirty surface. While the same occurs with ONR you can watch the ONR pull the dirt off of the surface, this is why there is a lot of emphasis on not putting pressure on the sponge. What is toughest for me is to avoid drying the runoff onto areas that have not been treated with ONR yet. It is a natural instinct to dry these areas under normal conditions but if you do so with ONR you are rubbing a dry towel on a drop of ONR and a lot of dirt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 328i View Post
Mike, my theory is that JB is most likely to be marred when drying. I actually think that it may be safer to so an ONR wash as long as the car isn't filthy because of the slickness it adds when drying. At the very least make sure you use a QD while you dry and try to blot as much as possible. Make sure to use the sheeting method as well, minimizing touching the paint is the best way to prevent marring. Try to use a softer microfiber instead of a waffle weave when buffing off remaining water/QD as well.

I'm going to do a test on my hood when I have some free time and see what the best non marring method is for those that don't have a CRSpotless.



Make sure you are using at least 1 oz. per 2 gallons. I believe the cap on the instructions that they are talking about is from the 32 oz. bottle not the gallon size, so anyone that has a gallon size should make sure you measure out a proper amount. If you have hard water add a little more than recommended.

I do have the CG air dryer so maybe ill try doing panel by panel and just using the air dryer as my only tool to dry. Thanks
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      10-06-2009, 10:49 AM   #31
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I don't think an air dryer will work. The first wipe lifts the dirt which then sits in the solution of water and polymer. Using a microfiber towel removes the remaining dirty residue. I think an air dryer will result in some dirt being dryed on the car. Try one panel the way that everyone is doing it and see it you are ok with the results. If you try the air dryer let us know how it turns out.
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      10-06-2009, 10:56 AM   #32
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If you are worried about marring while drying, try dabbing the area instead of wiping. It will take a bit longer but you are less likely to drag anything across the paint.
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      10-06-2009, 01:38 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighVoltage View Post
If you are worried about marring while drying, try dabbing the area instead of wiping. It will take a bit longer but you are less likely to drag anything across the paint.
Yeah I just hate blotting... takes forever =P
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      10-06-2009, 02:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OEKlM View Post
Yeah I just hate blotting... takes forever =P
Invest in a CR spotless! Easiest method for sure.
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      10-06-2009, 03:32 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighVoltage View Post
Believe it or not, I have measured the cap from both the 8oz and the 128oz. Even though it doesn't look it, they are very close to the same volume.
I got a medicine syringe. You can get them at drug stores. I measure out 2 - 3 tablespoons of ONR for 2 gallons of water. That's 1 - 1.5 fl oz. Perfect measurement every time!
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      10-06-2009, 04:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328i View Post
Invest in a CR spotless! Easiest method for sure.
Indeed. I have the anti-waterspotting setup -- CR Spotless for my summer (water) washes, and ONR for my winter washes. Love them both. Not to get OT, but the CR Spotless is truly amazing, just a little expensive.
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      10-06-2009, 09:13 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK View Post
Indeed. I have the anti-waterspotting setup -- CR Spotless for my summer (water) washes, and ONR for my winter washes. Love them both. Not to get OT, but the CR Spotless is truly amazing, just a little expensive.
Agreed, it also depends on your water too. The harder it is, the more expensive the CRspotless will be to use regularly so that should be taken into consideration as well besides the initial investment.
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      10-06-2009, 10:25 PM   #38
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How often does the resin have to be replaced? Costco has it for 150 bucks, that plus the initial cost of the equipment is pretty pricy.
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      10-06-2009, 11:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pruettfan View Post
How often does the resin have to be replaced? Costco has it for 150 bucks, that plus the initial cost of the equipment is pretty pricy.
Yeah, it's expensive. Costco has the best price and comes with one resin change. How often you change resin depends on how hard your water is and whether you use the system for the whole wash (not necessary) or just the rinse (all that is necessary). Changing every 300 gallons or so is typical, I think. Rinsing takes me less than 5 gallons, but I have very hard water. I figure resin should last more than a year. I've only had mine about 6 or 7 months so far.

But back to ONR -- it's amazing, too, not nearly the price of a CR Spotless, and equally spotless washes.
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      10-06-2009, 11:19 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328i View Post
Invest in a CR spotless! Easiest method for sure.
CR Spotless is definitely worth it if you hate drying. And it works a bit better than the Mr. Clean system from my experience. (and cheaper in the long run)

I hate drying my car because my Detailed Image Waffle weave always leaves a small (only noticeable if you are OCD about dust on a black car) amount of dust on my car when I am drying. I tried cleaning it with the microfiber soap and instructions and even the pad cleaning stuff (lemon smelling stuff) to no luck. Not a flaw on the excellent towel...just the nature of the product.
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      10-07-2009, 01:21 AM   #41
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I use the regular microfiber towels, I don't find the waffle weave so much.
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      10-08-2009, 02:57 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vgame64 View Post
CR Spotless is definitely worth it if you hate drying. And it works a bit better than the Mr. Clean system from my experience. (and cheaper in the long run)

I hate drying my car because my Detailed Image Waffle weave always leaves a small (only noticeable if you are OCD about dust on a black car) amount of dust on my car when I am drying. I tried cleaning it with the microfiber soap and instructions and even the pad cleaning stuff (lemon smelling stuff) to no luck. Not a flaw on the excellent towel...just the nature of the product.
Hmm that's odd, have you washed the WW towels with any other kind? I specifically use waffle weave towels on glass because they're they only one I never have linting issues with, especially on grabby glass. One thing you may want to consider is the dust is simply being attracted because of a static charge caused by rubbing the towel against the paint. I've found that spraying Optimum Instant Detailer onto the section you're drying helps with this. Plus it also adds slickness and extra gloss.
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      10-11-2009, 07:09 PM   #43
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my only concern with this stuff was the swirls or scratches.. but since everyone says its the ish, i'll give it a shot!
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      10-11-2009, 08:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
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my only concern with this stuff was the swirls or scratches.. but since everyone says its the ish, i'll give it a shot!
I had the same concern but I have not had that problem. The key is to get the sponge nice and wet, don't apply pressure and only dry areas that have been cleaned. If the car is really dirty then mix some quick detailer using the ONR and spray the panel down prior to using the regular method. You only have to do that for caked on dirt though.

Good luck

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