[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by labrador

There was a 1-star Google review posted about 2 weeks ago. The customer received two different sized platforms. Are these Chinese sell-throughs? Great if it works for people, but I will keep an eye on the reviews of Quickjack.

I was looking at the MaxJax, but that will not fit in my garage.
https://www.maxjaxusa.com/

How small is your garage?

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

Well, that's clearly a shipping error, regardless of whether it was drop shipped from QJ or shipped from a vendor, and no reason to give a product a 1 star rating at any rate.

I've heard nothing but positive reviews from those who have actually shelled out the cash. If you have the space, it might be worthwhile to spend another $800 or $1000 on a two-post, but the QJ seems to work very well in a lot of scenarios.

Yes, shipping issue for sure. The system comes in three boxes - one each for the platforms and one for the power unit and hoses, blocks, and fittings. So, it would be easy for shipping to inadvertently pair two platform boxes of different sizes. That is not a product issue and shouldn't result in a low rating of the product itself.

Here is a video of a customer with a problem (defective fitting) who got prompt service from Quickjack:

[Phyrexia]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

Yes, shipping issue for sure. The system comes in three boxes - one each for the platforms and one for the power unit and hoses, blocks, and fittings. So, it would be easy for shipping to inadvertently pair two platform boxes of different sizes. That is not a product issue and shouldn't result in a low rating of the product itself.

Here is a video of a customer with a problem (defective fitting) who got prompt service from Quickjack: ...

I bet if he whacked that fitting onto his floor as hard as he can, it'd pop back into place

Glad to see their customer service was on top of things. I really do see a BL5000X in my future.

[lab_rat]

Originally Posted by labrador

There was a 1-star Google review posted about 2 weeks ago. The customer received two different sized platforms. Are these Chinese sell-throughs? Great if it works for people, but I will keep an eye on the reviews of Quickjack.

I was looking at the MaxJax, but that will not fit in my garage.
https://www.maxjaxusa.com/

The MaxJax looks nice and seems well engineered. Should fit my garage concrete and size specs nicely.

The MaxJax and QuickJack appear to be great [relatively] inexpensive choices.

I am going to have a difficult time choosing one over the other though...but being spoiled for choice is a great thing, right?

[Phyrexia]

I'm failing to understand how the MaxJack is "portable" - doesn't it bolt into the ground?

[RocketSurgeon]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

I'm failing to understand how the MaxJack is "portable" - doesn't it bolt into the ground?

It does bolt down; being a 2-post, it needs to be anchored. The posts are small enough to be moved though, so you can unbolt them and stash them out of the way. The posts on a normal 2-post are 9 feet tall and over 1000 pounds. Each quick-jack post is under 5 feet tall, under 200lbs, and has wheels. You can set it up or take it down in under 20 minutes.

[doru]

Maxjax takes the crown here.
Better build quality and can lift a small truck no issues.
What we did in my buddy's garage - we purchased another set of anchors and drilled another set of holes, now his Maxjax is set for sedan size and for pickup size. It's also very solid. These units are made in Chine, enginnered by Danmar in the US of A. I think they have good quality control. I have seen some Chines made units (other brand) that actually collapsed under less than posted weight limit once the car (sedan) started to lift. Scary.

[Phyrexia]

I'm glad you've had luck with the MaxJax.

I don't think it fits the same use cases as the QuickJack. I'm still having trouble wrapping my head around the MaxJax being advertised as "portable".

If I can't take it to the autocross lot and swap my tires with it, then it's not portable.

Here is a video of a QuickJack being SEVERELY overloaded:

Originally Posted by doru

Maxjax takes the crown here.
Better build quality and can lift a small truck no issues.
What we did in my buddy's garage - we purchased another set of anchors and drilled another set of holes, now his Maxjax is set for sedan size and for pickup size. It's also very solid. These units are made in Chine, enginnered by Danmar in the US of A. I think they have good quality control. I have seen some Chines made units (other brand) that actually collapsed under less than posted weight limit once the car (sedan) started to lift. Scary.

[doru]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

I'm glad you've had luck with the MaxJax.

I don't think it fits the same use cases as the QuickJack. I'm still having trouble wrapping my head around the MaxJax being advertised as "portable".

If I can't take it to the autocross lot and swap my tires with it, then it's not portable.

They advertise "portable" in as not having to have a fixed location in garage. Can be quickly unbolted if the garage space is at premium and stowed away as opposed to "fixed" 2 post or 4 posts.
I understand now what you mean by "portable" - same function as the 'widowmaker". But even the Quickjack won't fit in my coupe for example.
On another note: The Maxjax can lift the vehicle quite high, where you can work underneath on those roller garage chairs - can't do that with Quickjack - very limited lift. Also, it's quite easy to drop subframe or tranny with Maxjax. You will struggle with the counterpart at best. On my oldex- e39, the fuel filter is situated under the driver's seat, and some plastic underbody mouldings have to be removed to be able to access and change. Quickjack seems to have a rather wide lifting "skate" which I think would impede accessing said fuel filter. Same location was on my ex-X5 and I would believe some other BMW's use same location. Also, if one plans on owning a 2nd hand Porsche (some people do), the ONLY way of doing maintenance and repairs is having the Maxjax in order to drop the engine.
The big + for Quickjack is the ability of very easy stowing and placing it under the car.
For me the Quickjack is a very neat and more safe replacement of a jack and 4 stands due its max lift height. For some people this height is enough and fits nicely the bill.

[Phyrexia]

Well surely it would have made my 328 clutch job easier. I did that on my back with jackstands. And I'm not sure if I'd really call it struggling - the worst part was stripped pressure plate bolts which would have been an issue either way. But I digress. I think the QJ will fit in my sedan...if I retrofit folding rear seats.

Yeah I have considered the side access and width, but I know I wouldn't have had issues getting to my M3's fuel filter with a QJ. I never did my 540.

Re: the Porsche, is it easier to get to the engine, unbolt it, and then lift the car from the motor?

My final thought I guess is that if you're going to have a two posts lift I'd want it to be a big mahfah rather than a 200 pound post with removable studs or however it works. (I'm not knocking the MJ.)

[labrador]

The Quickjacks do have the advantage in that you can take them to the track. The reviews that I have been reading tell *me* they do not run a tight shop. So what else might be wrong? It might not matter to others, but does to me.

Maxjac does require 3000 psi concrete. One only thinks that most are 2500 psi. There are adapter brackets I read some where. I have storage on both sides of the garage, so installing one will eat into the adjacent parking space.

[Efthreeoh]

If you don't need a lift at the track, and have a garage, then just modify the ceiling and get a real lift. The first time you get to walk under your car to just do an oil change, you immediately understand the purpose.

[K9Leader]

For lifting the E91 on the Quickjack, I use the rubber blocks with the round puck style pad with a rectangular extension that fits into the BMW undercar jack points. Getting the block/puck combo to line up with the jack pad took a lot of lining up, lift a little, check, lower, line up, lift, check, etc. So I decided it would be better if the puck could be held in place in the jack point, sort of like the pinch weld adapters have magnets that hold them in place so that the jack (or, in this case, the rubber blocks) can rise up to meet them.

So, I ordered a new set of the plastic, rectangular jack points (old ones were really beat up, with one of them with a big gouge out of one side, making its safety questionable). Then put a strip of the hook side of Velcro inside, held in with two small stainless steel screws because the adhesive would not last long. Then a strip of the loop side of Velcro on the top of the jacking pucks, again screwed in. I did have to shave down the top of the rectangle on the pucks so that when loaded the round part of the puck would be sure to contact the edges of the jacking point. Makes lining everything up much simpler. Pics below.

[Phyrexia]

Very nice! I wish I could find some jack stands that had tops like that, that fit into our jack pads. I can only find those jack pad adapters for standard jacks and lifts.

Originally Posted by K9Leader

For lifting the E91 on the Quickjack, I use the rubber blocks with the round puck style pad with a rectangular extension that fits into the BMW undercar jack points. Getting the block/puck combo to line up with the jack pad took a lot of lining up, lift a little, check, lower, line up, lift, check, etc. So I decided it would be better if the puck could be held in place in the jack point, sort of like the pinch weld adapters have magnets that hold them in place so that the jack (or, in this case, the rubber blocks) can rise up to meet them.

So, I ordered a new set of the plastic, rectangular jack points (old ones were really beat up, with one of them with a big gouge out of one side, making its safety questionable). Then put a strip of the hook side of Velcro inside, held in with two small stainless steel screws because the adhesive would not last long. Then a strip of the loop side of Velcro on the top of the jacking pucks, again screwed in. I did have to shave down the top of the rectangle on the pucks so that when loaded the round part of the puck would be sure to contact the edges of the jacking point. Makes lining everything up much simpler. Pics below.

[K9Leader]

First oil change with the Quickjack . . . on my son's Mazda 6.

The BMW and Corvette have pads for lifting but this Mazda has pinch welds. I'm using homemade pinch weld adapters but think the magnetic metal type would make lining things up a lot easier. Only problem is I've got four different cars (wife's Toyota Venza, my Subaru Baja, son's Mazda, and daughter's Acura) that the pinch weld adapters would have to fit and all have different length and thickness and height on the welds. I imagine it will be tough finding an adapter that fits all of them. The rubber block type sold by Quickjack (and others) might be more versatile.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

Very nice! I wish I could find some jack stands that had tops like that, that fit into our jack pads. I can only find those jack pad adapters for standard jacks and lifts.

Here you go: (adapters are unnecessary)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

For lifting the E91 on the Quickjack, I use the rubber blocks with the round puck style pad with a rectangular extension that fits into the BMW undercar jack points. Getting the block/puck combo to line up with the jack pad took a lot of lining up, lift a little, check, lower, line up, lift, check, etc. So I decided it would be better if the puck could be held in place in the jack point, sort of like the pinch weld adapters have magnets that hold them in place so that the jack (or, in this case, the rubber blocks) can rise up to meet them.

So, I ordered a new set of the plastic, rectangular jack points (old ones were really beat up, with one of them with a big gouge out of one side, making its safety questionable). Then put a strip of the hook side of Velcro inside, held in with two small stainless steel screws because the adhesive would not last long. Then a strip of the loop side of Velcro on the top of the jacking pucks, again screwed in. I did have to shave down the top of the rectangle on the pucks so that when loaded the round part of the puck would be sure to contact the edges of the jacking point. Makes lining everything up much simpler. Pics below.

Not to flame, but what you did is completely unnecessary. In fact what you've done is put all the pressure of the lift on the inside of the lifting block where it wasn't designed to take a load, instead of on the walls where it is designed to take the load. The lift points are designed to contact the lifting arm of a car lift, in your case the rubber blocks of the QuickJack. I've left my E90 on my lift for more than a week sitting on the lift blocks. Two of the lift points on my car are the originals and are 12 years old and I have lifted my car probably a good 400 times with them; they do not crush when used correctly. People just don't understand plastics.

The reason the lifting points get torn up is because most home mechanics lift the car incorrectly, set it on the wrong kind of stand (an axle stand), and don't know how to properly use a floor jack. The lift points snap into the rocker panel and are designed to be knocked off if road debris or a curb hit them so the under carriage doesn't get damaged.

I like that QuickJack though for home DIY work if you want to keep an open garage floor. Bend Pack makes it, so you know it is well engineered and built well.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Not to flame, but what you did is completely unnecessary. In fact what you've done is put all the pressure of the lift on the inside of the lifting block where it wasn't designed to take a load, instead of on the walls where it is designed to take the load. The lift points are designed to contact the lifting arm of a car lift, in your case the rubber blocks of the QuickJack. I've left my E90 on my lift for more than a week sitting on the lift blocks. Two of the lift points on my car are the originals and are 12 years old and I have lifted my car probably a good 400 times with them; they do not crush when used correctly. People just don't understand plastics.

The reason the lifting points get torn up is because most home mechanics lift the car incorrectly, set it on the wrong kind of stand (an axle stand), and don't know how to properly use a floor jack. The lift points snap into the rocker panel and are designed to be knocked off if road debris or a curb hit them so the under carriage doesn't get damaged.

I like that QuickJack though for home DIY work if you want to keep an open garage floor. Bend Pack makes it, so you know it is well engineered and built well.

That's why I shaved down the rectangular part that fits inside so that the sidewalls do rest on the flat part of the round base of the puck. The gap you see is only because the puck is hanging down. Under load the gap closes and the sidewalls are resting on the puck.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

That's why I shaved down the rectangular part that fits inside so that the sidewalls do rest on the flat part of the round base of the puck. The gap you see is only because the puck is hanging down. Under load the gap closes and the sidewalls are resting on the puck.

Understood, but other people don't shave the adapter, and again, the adapters are not necessary.

I'm just commenting on your thread so if other people decide to use the QuickJack, they can simply set the car down on the rubber blocks. Or, if they have the right stands like the ESCO 10498, and jack the car from the front and rear center jack points (as been published by the BMW TIS) they do not need adapters on the lifting blocks. The lifting blocks on the rocker panels are quite robust if they are used correctly.

[eljay]

K9Leader
Is there enough room under the car to drop and remove the transmission?
In other words, can this lift be used to replace clutch etc.?

I know a lot would depend on the type of transmission jack used, but I'm wondering if someone could chime in on the height of the transmission and low profile lift to see if we could add this type of a job to the list of things that can be done with the QJ lift.

Thanks!

[Phyrexia]

Originally Posted by eljay

K9Leader
Is there enough room under the car to drop and remove the transmission?
In other words, can this lift be used to replace clutch etc.?

I know a lot would depend on the type of transmission jack used, but I'm wondering if someone could chime in on the height of the transmission and low profile lift to see if we could add this type of a job to the list of things that can be done with the QJ lift.

Thanks!

You can drop a transmission and replace a clutch with a standard set of jack stands. The quickjack would be more than enough.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

You can drop a transmission and replace a clutch with a standard set of jack stands. The quickjack would be more than enough.

I've never done a transmission so I would go with if you can do it off of jack stands then it is absolutely doable with the QJ, which gets it higher than any jack stands I've ever used or seen.