Help! Fuse for to unlock doors keeps blowing!!

KyLu II · 10-04-2011, 10:27 PM

Its happening more and
Ore often now, I'm on #4 now, first time it went was early this year, and in the last week it went out 3x now! I'm using a 20amp.
Anyone having similar problems???

KyLu II · 10-06-2011, 08:22 AM

Bump!
Really need help with this! It keeps blowing every single day!!
Haalp!!

badass335 · 10-06-2011, 09:15 AM

Basically means one of the door actuators is shorting or drawing out too much current. Had this issue before. If you have warranty, take it in to BMW. If not, what they did was take an ohm meter and measure resistance on each door lock, trunk lock AND the fuel cap. 1 will be higher. Replace that and problem is solved. A real pain to deal with.

import36 · 10-06-2011, 09:15 AM

what number fuse is it on the panel?

KyLu II · 10-06-2011, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badass335

Basically means one of the door actuators is shorting or drawing out too much current. Had this issue before. If you have warranty, take it in to BMW. If not, what they did was take an ohm meter and measure resistance on each door lock, trunk lock AND the fuel cap. 1 will be higher. Replace that and problem is solved. A real pain to deal with.

No warranty, I had one of the actuators go bad and replaced underwarranty. Ugh, I was afraid one of them were bad. Thanks for the reply.

Quote:

Originally Posted by import36

what number fuse is it on the panel?

It's 57 I think, is the second one on the bottom left corner... There's little manual u can consult is located behind the door that covers the fuse box in the glove box.

KyLu II · 10-06-2011, 10:57 AM

Btw badass, where Can I hook up the ohm reader??

wins76 · 10-10-2011, 01:18 PM

have the same problem, but just replaced mine from 15a to 20 and then 25amp which solved the door actuator problems. 27 months still problem free.

Try different amp until it work without burning it. I think you can go upto 30amp in the standard size fuse.

KyLu II · 10-10-2011, 02:03 PM

Thanks! I'm gonna do that and see if it keeps burning it..

KyLu II · 10-10-2011, 02:56 PM

I just noticed my rear pass door won't unlock/lock with the fob, but unlocks manually.. Probably a bad actuator...

dquach93 · 11-03-2011, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wins76

have the same problem, but just replaced mine from 15a to 20 and then 25amp which solved the door actuator problems. 27 months still problem free.

Try different amp until it work without burning it. I think you can go upto 30amp in the standard size fuse.

Correct! There was a TSB about this and doing what is above..

Foreman05 · 11-04-2011, 12:07 AM

I had the same issue with my car when I bought it 2 months ago I had to replace I think 2 or 3 fuses that all belong to the door lock the numbers were 50 something's I think. Haven't had an issue since.

10-04-2011, 10:27 PM	#1
KyLu II FREE DREAMK 162 Rep 9,321 Posts Drives: the shiiit! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Vineland, NJ iTrader: (6) Garage List 2011 Lexus LFA [3.76]	Help! Fuse for to unlock doors keeps blowing!! Its happening more and Ore often now, I'm on #4 now, first time it went was early this year, and in the last week it went out 3x now! I'm using a 20amp. Anyone having similar problems??? __________________
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10-06-2011, 08:22 AM	#2
KyLu II FREE DREAMK 162 Rep 9,321 Posts Drives: the shiiit! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Vineland, NJ iTrader: (6) Garage List 2011 Lexus LFA [3.76]	Bump! Really need help with this! It keeps blowing every single day!! Haalp!! __________________
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10-06-2011, 09:15 AM	#3
badass335 Lieutenant Colonel 109 Rep 1,948 Posts Drives: 2017 540i Xdrive Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Surrey, BC iTrader: (10)	Basically means one of the door actuators is shorting or drawing out too much current. Had this issue before. If you have warranty, take it in to BMW. If not, what they did was take an ohm meter and measure resistance on each door lock, trunk lock AND the fuel cap. 1 will be higher. Replace that and problem is solved. A real pain to deal with.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-06-2011, 10:57 AM	#6
KyLu II FREE DREAMK 162 Rep 9,321 Posts Drives: the shiiit! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Vineland, NJ iTrader: (6) Garage List 2011 Lexus LFA [3.76]	Btw badass, where Can I hook up the ohm reader?? __________________
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10-10-2011, 01:18 PM	#7
wins76 Private First Class 27 Rep 172 Posts Drives: BMW 335 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	have the same problem, but just replaced mine from 15a to 20 and then 25amp which solved the door actuator problems. 27 months still problem free. Try different amp until it work without burning it. I think you can go upto 30amp in the standard size fuse.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-06-2011, 09:15 AM	#4
import36 Burrito bowl connoisseur 124 Rep 3,501 Posts Drives: 2015 Nissan GTR Black Edition Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Seven Cities iTrader: (1)	what number fuse is it on the panel?
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10-10-2011, 02:03 PM	#8
KyLu II FREE DREAMK 162 Rep 9,321 Posts Drives: the shiiit! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Vineland, NJ iTrader: (6) Garage List 2011 Lexus LFA [3.76]	Thanks! I'm gonna do that and see if it keeps burning it.. __________________
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10-10-2011, 02:56 PM	#9
KyLu II FREE DREAMK 162 Rep 9,321 Posts Drives: the shiiit! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Vineland, NJ iTrader: (6) Garage List 2011 Lexus LFA [3.76]	I just noticed my rear pass door won't unlock/lock with the fob, but unlocks manually.. Probably a bad actuator... __________________
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-04-2011, 12:07 AM	#11
Foreman05 Private First Class 18 Rep 180 Posts Drives: in search of a 335 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: NC iTrader: (2)	I had the same issue with my car when I bought it 2 months ago I had to replace I think 2 or 3 fuses that all belong to the door lock the numbers were 50 something's I think. Haven't had an issue since.
	Appreciate 0 Quote