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335i vacuum hose replacement
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10-21-2012, 11:33 AM | #1 |
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335i vacuum hose replacement
Has anyone managed to replace all their vacuum hoses?
I can't get to the rear turbo! There is just no room! Do I need to take the dp's off and get at it from underneath?
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10-21-2012, 12:58 PM | #2 | |
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From looking at my old pictures from underneath then I don't think you can get to it from below unless you take off the DPs. Have you tried from up top? The US guys were able to adjust the rear WG from above, so you should be able to get to the hose from above. You may need to remove the scuttle board with the air filter to get enough space. The hose/nipple should point towards the top and be really close to the firewall. So get a mirror on a stick and see if you can get to it. What's you plan with the front one? I would expect that one to be much harder to get to? |
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10-21-2012, 01:25 PM | #3 |
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Done front one, you can get your hand down there - just.. I have big hands too!
Rear one is hampered by the steering rack - not a problem in USA.
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-23-2012, 05:33 PM | #4 | |
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Are you still trying to fix your 30FF problem or did you get new turbos recently? Note to self - change the hoses if I do any work on the turbos again. |
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10-24-2012, 04:18 AM | #5 |
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Indeed! Wish Darren woods had done this!
Yep still getting over boost codes. But have a vacuum gauge and am losing vacuum, one canister also needs replacing. I can see that the rear turbo hose has had it - and where the problem is. I'm going to cut the old hose as far back as possible and join with a new hose. Hopefully this will resolve the issue, otherwise I'll replace the solenoids (not a big deal).
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-27-2012, 05:50 PM | #6 | |
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Where did you measure vacuum from and how quick are you loosing vacuum? I just replaced both of my pressure converters today to fix the 30FE error. There seems to be different views on whether this will help or not, but its something that I have wanted to try for a while. Boost control seems to be better and I have not seen any 30FE errors yet (fingers crossed). I had a look at the vacuum from the canisters and both seemed to hold vacuum for a good couple of minutes with only minimal bleed off. Inserting the vacuum gauge between the canisters and the pressure converters I measured 25-26 inHg with the engine idling. I then stopped the engine and measured the bleed off every minute. 1min - 23 inHg 2min - 21 inHg 3min - 19.5 inHg 4min - 17.5 inHg 5min - 16 inHg I did the test on both canisters and the bleed off was pretty similar. I also used a MityVac to have a look at the WG actuator arm in operation and it seemed to move freely, but the vacuum gauge wasn't very accurate and I couldn't confirm if it closed properly at 5.91 inHg. It was there and about, but I really need to do this with the downpipes off so it's possible to check if the penny flapper can rotate or not. That should also give access to adjust the rear actuator arm if necessary. If only I had a garage with a 2 post lift I could give it a go, but the weather is too crap now to even attempt this on axle stands. Have you replaced the vacuum lines going across the engine yet? These are known to become frail on higher milage cars? |
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10-28-2012, 03:32 AM | #7 |
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Replaced all vacuum hoses except the rear turbo. I have cut this hose and joined it with new hose as a stop gap.
I'm using a vacuum gauge teed into the system after the boost solenoids. There is a good DIY on youtube done by terry@bms on how to test the vacuum system using the WG rattle fix feature. Mine is loosing vacuum on light throttle, going to replace the solenoids on Wednesday... Sounds like you had the same problem!! Hope this fixes it...
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Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-28-2012, 06:21 PM | #8 |
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Funny, I had a 30FE on the last Cotswolds meet - think mine was down to a kink in the vacuum hose to the rear turbo thanks to the dealer routing it incorrectly when they replaced the turbos a few months ago...
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10-29-2012, 11:09 AM | #9 |
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Phil.
Do you have a hand vacuum pump (not that sort ) with gauge? Essential for this kind of work IMO. I bought this one from amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-77003...1526711&sr=8-2 Its got a pretty good 270deg gauge which is atmosphere to -1bar / 30inHg If you can vac up the actuator and close the wastegate using the existing hose unplugged at the solenoid end, and it holds the vac, then the hose is ok and it saves you messing around. I've used this pump to set my forge divertors (open at -300mbar to BMW idle spec) and check for leaks on the other systems. Last edited by doughboy; 10-29-2012 at 11:21 AM.. |
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10-29-2012, 11:15 AM | #10 | |
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Yep, right on the wastegate vacuum, the odd ball 5.91inHg is simply -0.2Bar in Euro speak. Its not so critical that is is at exactly 200mbar, rather that both wastegates close at the SAME vacuum level because they are connected to the same vacuum line, so they must operate in near perfect unison. Even 190 or 210 is only a +/-5% error which is as accurate enough for any garage, the DME / JB4 will adjust its duty cycle to reach the boost target. If one closes late, then more vacuum will be needed to close them BOTH (giving underboost errors) or if one is sticky or slow to release, or closes too easily to you will get overboost errors. Last edited by doughboy; 10-29-2012 at 11:32 AM.. |
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10-29-2012, 11:29 AM | #11 |
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One of my cannisters was shot only holding 24hg rather than 26hg which it should hold at Idle. Replaced the dodgy one and the new one holds 26hg fine.
I have one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...ls_o02_s00_i00 Works great for following the Terry DIY mentionned earlier:
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-29-2012, 11:41 AM | #12 |
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So the WGrattle fix gives 100% duty cycle on overrun, in theory passing near full vacuum to the actuators pulling them as firmly shut as possible right?
What vac reading are you getting then or is it a sluggish change? Also, how can the canister be faulty? Its just a plastic bottle isn't it? |
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10-29-2012, 01:32 PM | #13 |
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I thought it had a one-way valve in there.. Makes sense.
Mine is sitting at 12hg at idle. Erratic when revving. Holding revs it loses vacuum...
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-29-2012, 02:33 PM | #14 | ||
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I found this flow chart from TIS on how to troubleshoot this: http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/attachment...ost_Values.pdf -or- http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17214 So far everything is working fine and I haven't seen the 30FE code since replacing both pressure converters. As an added bonus, replacing the solenoids have actually fixed another issue I have been experiencing. The issue could best be described as jerky acceleration in 1st gear when applying 3/4 throttle. It would feel like the throttle position had been amplified by a factor 5x and as if I had stabbed the throttle, lifted off and then back on the throttle again. Now everything is smooth and throttle application feels like when it was new. I did suspect that a bad/lazy solenoid could be the cause behind this, but never got around to buy some new ones to try out. With the 30FE code I knew that there was a problem in that area, so knowing this I regret not replacing them sooner. |
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10-29-2012, 05:07 PM | #15 | ||
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You say you've got 12inHg after the solenoids, what is it before the solenoids?, i.e. on the pump side? Quote:
After cleaning and greasing properly they started to open at just below 300. |
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10-30-2012, 02:50 AM | #16 |
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At idle:
Vacuum canister - solenoid = 26inhg Solenoid -WG = 12inhg
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-30-2012, 04:05 AM | #17 |
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That seems good on the pump side.
So post solenoid, are you not getting a clean stable vacuum level step like in the video? Last edited by doughboy; 10-30-2012 at 04:19 AM.. |
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10-30-2012, 06:18 AM | #18 |
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No. Not stable and losing vacuum on a light throttle. I had thought that the WG fail safe for low vacuum was underboost, but not in my case!!
I'll try to get a video when I change the solenoids out tomorrow!
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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10-30-2012, 06:42 AM | #19 |
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It should be rock steady at idle on the solenoid side as that is a static state, WG closed, end of. So instability there does seem an issue.
It's tricky to know what duty cycle the DME is giving, so you don't know what vacuum to expect post-solenoids on anything other than idle or overrun. Do you mean 'light throttle' when driving/under load? If so, then a decreasing vac could be correct as the WGs will need to back off as a target is reached, like any closed loop control system it will constantly react and adjust to reach / maintain its targets. Last edited by doughboy; 10-30-2012 at 06:51 AM.. |
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11-01-2012, 04:35 PM | #20 | |
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The space near the pressure converters is pretty tight so you may struggle to get a socket on nuts or pull the vacuum hoses off in-situe. You can create a bit more room by removing the vacuum cannisters and moving the coolant overflow tank.
Note: If you do drop any nuts or screws down the engine bay. After you stop swearing, jack up the right front and pop the wheel off. Much quicker than trying to remove the entire undertray. A magnet on a stick may also help. No sign of the 30FE error on mine after replacing them and the new improved throttle response is great. Fingers crossed that it will sort your issue as well! |
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11-02-2012, 02:30 AM | #21 |
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Did this yesterday.
Just removed the coolant reservoir bolts and lifted the tank slightly to get at the front converter nuts. Your instructions would have made it slightly easier. A quick tip to add to your instructions. It is worth laying something in the engine bay directly under where you are working to catch the nuts, bolts and sockets which inevitably get dropped. I use a large plastic bag. Thereby you lower the risk of losing these items to the bottom of the engine/under trays etc... All in all its not a difficult job. Car feels much better and is hitting boost targets properly rather than hugely overshooting. I'll need to do some logging and more runs, but hopefully it's now sorted.
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Car: e91 330d with Viezu map
Gone but not forgotten: 2010 Jaguar XFR (Cat-back exhaust, pulley, intake mods and map), Highly Modified E90 335i LCI M Sport Manual (circa 480BHP/500lb ft) |
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03-07-2013, 01:22 AM | #22 |
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Going to attempt this at the weekend
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