[V1_R]

Originally Posted by bmroxm5

feel like buying this one next

Fixed 85mm/1.8

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...mm_f_1_8D.html

thats a great lens for portraits.

not enough zoom for action photography, like cars and bikes at trackdays.

if you want a great zoom lens check out the 70-200 f/2.8. Sigma does one, so does tamron. and of course nikkor if you have a spare $3500

[Stuart@BMRAutowerkes]

oh Bokeh is a real word - thought it was a typo or something weird at first lol.

85mm is great for portraits? car portraits? lol.

yup I have a basic understanding of aperture and knew that you lose aperture with zoom, didn't realise you could have fixed aperture - that's great!

[orey]

im looking at getting an lx5 for portability/indie cred.

[Dec540]

Shooting a:

- Stationary car in daylight - 18-55 gives you the most flexibility. Aperture priority with the ISO forced on something low, the lower the better. Aperture between 6-10

- Stationary car at dusk (still lots of natural light) - Same as above raising the iso when shutter speed drops too low.

- Stationary car at night (with street lights or perhaps in a carpark)
-With a tripod: Lowest iso possible. Same aperture as above usually on aperture priority - Turn anti-shake or whatever your camera calls it off.
-Without a tripod: lower aperture around 4-5 with a higher iso.

- Moving car during the day - Target distance will obviously determine which lens you choose. It also depends if your in another car going along side or if you are sitting still while the car goes past. It also depends if you want to pan or not. I'd watch some videos on shooting moving objects

- Moving car in a tunnel - as above
- Pic of bright angel eyes - Lower aperture, fast shutter speed, low iso
- Interior shots - up to your discretion.


You learn a lot by playing around and watching videos. As long as you know what each variable does and understand how light is let into the camera, what creates bokeh etc. then its just a matter of playing around.

[Stuart@BMRAutowerkes]

Thanks Dec540! Valuable info.

If I'm in a car moving alongside another car.. both only 50km/h or so, what shutter speed should I aim for?

[V1_R]

start off with about 80 or 100.

This will give you a nice blur of the wheels and road, creating look of movement.

You can adjust up or down from there.

Remember the slower the shutter speed, the more chance you have of blurring the actual subject matter (the car in this case)

[rossiM3]

Originally Posted by PersianPete

start off with about 80 or 100.

This will give you a nice blur of the wheels and road, creating look of movement.

You can adjust up or down from there.

Remember the slower the shutter speed, the more chance you have of blurring the actual subject matter (the car in this case)

do you have any examples of photos you have taken and the lens used? It would be so much easier to understand differences based on visual examples

[Dec540]

also another tip i forgot to mention is that you can get some really good plugins for Internet browsers that show exif data. Pretty handy if you see a photo you like Just search Exif in the plugin search for your browser

[rossiM3]

Originally Posted by Dec540

also another tip i forgot to mention is that you can get some really good plugins for Internet browsers that show exif data. Pretty handy if you see a photo you like Just search Exif in the plugin search for your browser

Yeah thats perfect, that will help out with examples. Cheers mate

[V1_R]

These are pretty old on a cheapie Tamron 70-300. Great lens to have while saving up for the 70-200mm f/2.8

The shutter speed is the exposure time here. The bikes were going pretty fast so I used quite a fast shutter speed.

ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/200 sec
Aperture: 18.0
Focal Length: 280mm



ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/250 sec
Aperture: 13.0
Focal Length: 300mm



You'll see this last photo has less blur in the background and doesn't look as fast. Note the shutter speed (exposure time)

ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/320 sec
Aperture: 13.0
Focal Length: 300mm

[rossiM3]

Originally Posted by PersianPete

These are pretty old on a cheapie Tamron 70-300. Great lens to have while saving up for the 70-200mm f/2.8

The shutter speed is the exposure time here. The bikes were going pretty fast so I used quite a fast shutter speed.

ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/200 sec
Aperture: 18.0
Focal Length: 280mm



ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/250 sec
Aperture: 13.0
Focal Length: 300mm



You'll see this photo has less blur in the background and doesn't look as fast. Note the shutter speed (exposure time)

ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/320 sec
Aperture: 13.0
Focal Length: 300mm

Man thats perfect! Thanks for that, its really put shit into perspective! Ill be taking pics at the MotoGP and F1 so ill def be trying those settings

Great photos by the way

[Stuart@BMRAutowerkes]

From Gnatty's flickr account:

1/50sec... from memory travelling about 30-40km/h


1/30sec must of only been doing 20-30km/h in this one.


1/80sec about 40-50km/h

[V1_R]

the last picture is great!

[cruvon]

nice pics

[sbce90]

Is that Magnum or Blue Steel?

and is your indicator on?

[Stuart@BMRAutowerkes]

I dont remember having my indicator on... weird lol.

repainting my lip this weekend hopefully ghetto look will be gone.

[sbce90]

Couldn't help but post it.

/Back to serious talk.

[Dec540]

Here is one i took of a friend in a lotus.

Canon 5D MkII
1/125
Approx speed 140+



It was my first time panning with the 5d and my mate had 5 laps. I started with 1/60th and got quicker every lap to make sure i got a good photo. Needless to say i kept the last one lol.

[Stuart@BMRAutowerkes]

panning is where you move the camera with the target and snap the pic at the same time right?

[woosh]

^yup

Originally Posted by bmroxm5

what mount does it have lol

if Nikon then I'd be interested!

edit: actually maybe I was a bit too eager. I don't know what I would use it for lol.

Haha yeah for the Nikon. On second thoughts I might keep it for a month... hoping I get to use it! If I don't, I'll post back here

[kaishang]

It's a lot easier to take a good photo in the camera rather than mess with it with post-processing. Read up on your "Picture Controls" in one of the D90 menus and learn to use them. Portraits are better with lower contrast and lower saturation than landscapes for example. You can set picture controls to do this.

Decide what you want in focus eg portrait, put the focus point on the person's eyes. Decide if you want all the subject in focus or if you want it to fade into out-of-focus eg sharp eyes, out of focus ears using the portrait example. Learn to use single point AF or if you use multi-point, check you are happy with the result. Learn continuous AF vs static AF.

Decide what you want to have correctly exposed... eg detail in the clouds or clouds blown out into white.

hth.

[V1_R]

sticking to the shutter-speed topic, here's a picture i took last week. It was first time doing it so I still need to try out some different settings to make it better.

Light Painting - SABA (my sister-in-law's name)

Shutter Speed - 6 seconds
F number - 8
ISO - ?? must have been around 800
Light Source - HTC HD2 flash light app