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Oil cooler on N52
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11-24-2012, 02:42 PM | #2 | |
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+1 for this! I was also curious for this mod but it doesn't seem likely as we only have one bolt up top as where the n54/55 has two bolts where the oil filter housing is. Unless there's a way to tap another hole or if there is another hole tapped, it seems unlikely
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12-01-2012, 03:31 PM | #3 | |
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12-01-2012, 05:06 PM | #4 | |
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I use to but not anymore, I've changed out a few things since then (radiator/ coolant flush, oil change, checked the thermostat etc.) The oil filter housing on n54/55s have an extra bolt on the housing that's up top, the housing also looks slightly bigger also. If you look at it on a top view, there are two housing drain plugs on the top instead of just one
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12-01-2012, 05:29 PM | #5 | |
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If you don't have any overheating problems, there's no use. I track my car hard and the needle always stays in the middle. |
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12-01-2012, 05:31 PM | #6 |
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I meant to ask how much of a benefit it might provide. It seems like a fun project to undertake.
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12-01-2012, 08:01 PM | #7 |
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I've done it to my car. I'm using the Stett stage II and it works fine. My track temps were almost 315C and now they're 270-280C. Water temps were never an issue (until the head gasket started leaking). The oil can survive 300C+ but it breaks down really fast. I think the car will cut power at 350C but I'm not too sure about that.
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12-02-2012, 08:19 AM | #8 | |
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http://s771.beta.photobucket.com/use...lter%20housing |
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12-02-2012, 02:56 PM | #9 | ||
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12-02-2012, 05:04 PM | #10 | |
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Xis don't have oil coolers unless they came with the sports package and 18 inch wheel upgrade. At least that was my understanding.... |
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12-03-2012, 01:16 AM | #11 | ||
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Btw, mobil 1 is no where near 90. 7 qts. + filter only costs 60-75 buying separately or even in packages shipped from a website. Good thing you didn't sucker down to it, the other few bucks is for "labor" (there's really nothing to it. Its a rip off as I see it and a simple and quick diy.) I guess they love suckering the people who are lazy or don't have the knowledge or tools to do so
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12-03-2012, 05:45 AM | #12 | |
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FWIW the $90 is total cost. BUT, have you been to Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys? Autozone, as well as the others, has them on special every 3 months or so for around $30+ for 5 qts and an oil filter. (You can check their ads on their websites for when it is available. They cycle the major brands so it's around 3 months before the next time Mobil 1 goes up. I usually stock up and if you are in the Autozone rewards program every 4 or 5 purchases over $20 gets you some money to spend there as well. I forget if it's $10 or $20.) I usually can't find oil cheaper online anywhere because of shipping costs. Anyways, I sucked up as much of the oil in the oil filter housing as I could without getting burned too much with paper towels, put the new oil filter in, and put about 6.5 qts BMW oil in. I did a reset with the Bavarian tech tool, and it said next change at 16000 mi. It seemed the level was not completely full, so I put the remaining half qt in. The level then went to the top. (From what I recall from the dealer it would say 13000mi. It makes me wonder....) Searching on realoem shows that both housings are the same. I then took the part number from realoem to getbmwparts. It seems it is good for a lot of engines through 2011, so yours should be the same also. I don't know much about the N55.... You can do a retrofit if you really want to, I think. Dinan has them for the LCIs, and Mtech, at least for '08, last time I checked. Too bad the 15% off sale is up. (It took me about a week because it was my first major project on a BMW, and I was working at night when my son was asleep. I think on the NAs, maybe the N52, you can access all the bolts to the housing without having to lift up the intake manifold, but for the N54 at least, I needed to lift it up. Not sure of the N51. The curvature of the intake pipes is more curved on the N54. (Someone posted a DIY on how to replace an oil filter housing gasket, same as replacing the housing, without moving the intake manifold, but just looking at my N54 I realized there was no way the top bolt was going to come out without moving it.) I could try to verify that the intake manifolds are diffferent if really needed... I think one of the most difficult parts was putting the bumper back on. I had a lot of times where I didn't know how to take off a part. I couldn't take out the junction box(?) at one point, so instead of removing the intake manifold completely, I could only lift it up. The bumper was a tight fit with the larger Dinan cooler. I actually didn't have the original one so I can't really compare. (It was funny as my dad saw my progress and said I was ruining my perfectly good, almost new, car. It still has less than 5k on the ODO.) Last edited by jzchen; 12-03-2012 at 06:29 AM.. Reason: ... |
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12-03-2012, 07:16 AM | #13 | ||
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Ill attach a pic of what I am talking about. Its kinda strange that they hold the same part # even if one is completely different from the other. I guess its worth some what of a try if I'm truly that bored but you're right, NAs don't usually overheat unless you drive them over the limit. My car has only overheated twice. Both times the temp warning light came on and I had to cruise at 60 back home on the freeway because my car went into a major limp mode. Whenever I gave it more gas, it'd cut off right at 4k and would bog on me a bit. Now it seems to have went away. Maybe because of the oil change up or the stabilizer. Either way, ill pass on the oil cooler mod until i fully modify my car or drive harder
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12-03-2012, 10:45 AM | #14 | |
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12-03-2012, 02:06 PM | #15 | ||
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I use to have the bmw oil when I was under warranty but it didn't seem to cool fast enough or wasn't good enough on cold starts. I usually only let my car warm for a minute before driving again from a cold and mobil 1 0w40 seemed to do it for me. I'm curious though, why is castrol edge not LL approved? Gtx doesn't exist anymore so does that mean we only use the bmw oil from the stealerships? People seem to say mobil is better and cheaper than bmw oil and you have more variations and choices with it also. The last time I checked, 0w-40 was sold in walmart, it's just you'd have to find out which one. They do sell singles though and I have a guy who sells mobil 1. 6 qts for 35 bucks for any weigh and its about a block away from home. I also see other oils that are "contenders" but they don't have the LL approval and I'm skeptical to try it. What would happen if I do? I hear a lot of people using motul and royal purple even though its not LL approved but they say it runs like a champ. What are your thoughts on that?
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12-04-2012, 08:38 PM | #16 | |
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12-04-2012, 11:50 PM | #17 | ||
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I think ill just stick straight to mobil 1. Its a "noisy" oil according to other people but I don't seem to notice a thing, I'm kinda curious, do oil stabilizers need to be LL approved?
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12-05-2012, 08:50 AM | #18 | |
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Due to inconsistent sulphur levels and ethanol BMW specs LL01 for gassers in North America. US diesels use LL04. |
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12-05-2012, 08:56 AM | #19 | |
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LL-04 is for diesels, as I understand. (I think it has something to do with higher level of ZDDP additive, but don't quote me on that.) I don't use stabilizers, and haven't researched them. I don't think they are necessary if you use the right oil in the first place. Use the extra money on the right oil, I guess. If I had bumped into a thread about overheating I would ask if you had work done on the cooling system. As I know there is a special bleeding procedure, (and tool to use, some sort of pump that you pressurize the system to a certain level,) to do when adding coolant after cooling system work. If I remember correctly I had to detach a coolant hose to install the oil cooler retrofit. I then had a performance power kit installed by a dealer since I knew they would have to bleed the system anyways... |
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12-05-2012, 08:58 AM | #20 | |
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12-05-2012, 02:17 PM | #21 | |||
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12-05-2012, 06:35 PM | #22 |
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