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      02-15-2014, 07:41 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Love hard accelerations on the highway, twisties on country roads. Do a lot of lapping with the car too.

In the process of replacing my stock open 3.08 final drive to a 3.46 Quaife LSD.

Maybe R-compounds in a year or so.

Concerned with diff whine entering the cabin though. Can tolerate some noise, but minimal is best.
It's known gear whine noise will enter the cabin with either poly or solid diff mounts. Seems to be worth it to some. The LSD will add stress to the diff mounts when you nail the throttle; you may not notice it as much w/o. You have to decide if you can live with a little gear whine.
As for toe arms, either Megan racing or BMW group n bushings in your oem toe arms, which will never wear out.
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      09-15-2014, 09:06 PM   #134
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CVC, I now know what you mean. The clunking noise is there now. Ivo, my mechanic said that the Rogue arms are the issue and he can move them in his hands.

I think my options are:

1) press in new bushings.... no idea what or who does that in Toronto

2) get the Megan racing arms

Suggestions ?
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      09-15-2014, 09:43 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by DaFish View Post
CVC, I now know what you mean. The clunking noise is there now. Ivo, my mechanic said that the Rogue arms are the issue and he can move them in his hands.

I think my options are:

1) press in new bushings.... no idea what or who does that in Toronto

2) get the Megan racing arms

Suggestions ?
I have the RE toe arms on my car but I had the FK Bearings ball ends replaced with Aurora Performance Race parts and Seals-It seals and reused the safety retaining 'washers' that came with the RE assemblies.

The FK Bearings were easy to move by hand before they were installed and very easy to move after they were removed. A couple of them were verging on feeling loose in their race but that's just a subjective assessment. They had all of a couple hundred miles on them.

The Aurora parts couldn't be moved by hand and once installed they creak/pop loudly enough to be easily audible in the cabin at slow speeds. It might be a bother to some. But short of Hardrace/Megan arms it's about the best option I think.

FWIW, I picked up a set of Group N bushings from TMS for the OE toe arms but wanted the adjustable range independent of the eccentric as the car isn't as lowered as it can be yet. Not as structurally sound as the OE part though as someone else in this thread pointed out. Kept the OE trailing arms but changed out the bushings for spherical bearings from BW so at least it's more safe on the street than it would be otherwise.
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      09-15-2014, 11:18 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFish View Post
CVC, I now know what you mean. The clunking noise is there now. Ivo, my mechanic said that the Rogue arms are the issue and he can move them in his hands.

I think my options are:

1) press in new bushings.... no idea what or who does that in Toronto

2) get the Megan racing arms

Suggestions ?
I have the RE toe arms on my car but I had the FK Bearings ball ends replaced with Aurora Performance Race parts and Seals-It seals and reused the safety retaining 'washers' that came with the RE assemblies.

The FK Bearings were easy to move by hand before they were installed and very easy to move after they were removed. A couple of them were verging on feeling loose in their race but that's just a subjective assessment. They had all of a couple hundred miles on them.

The Aurora parts couldn't be moved by hand and once installed they creak/pop loudly enough to be easily audible in the cabin at slow speeds. It might be a bother to some. But short of Hardrace/Megan arms it's about the best option I think.

FWIW, I picked up a set of Group N bushings from TMS for the OE toe arms but wanted the adjustable range independent of the eccentric as the car isn't as lowered as it can be yet. Not as structurally sound as the OE part though as someone else in this thread pointed out. Kept the OE trailing arms but changed out the bushings for spherical bearings from BW so at least it's more safe on the street than it would be otherwise.
Pete
Did you install the group n bushings in your oe toe links? If not I'll buy them from you. I've been wanting to do that for a while. I don't need adjustable toe links since my car is easily aligned at its current ride height.
Peter
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      09-15-2014, 11:24 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFish
CVC, I now know what you mean. The clunking noise is there now. Ivo, my mechanic said that the Rogue arms are the issue and he can move them in his hands.

I think my options are:

1) press in new bushings.... no idea what or who does that in Toronto

2) get the Megan racing arms

Suggestions ?
I've not read one complaint about the Megan racing toe arms but you don't need adjustable toe links since your car isn't lowered very much. CJ421 and justpete have installed different rod ends in the RE toe links but I like firmer bushings in the oem links. The Meyle bushings I have are a little firmer rubber but not firm enough IMO. I'm going to try BMW Motorsport bushings in the oem links.
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      09-16-2014, 12:09 PM   #138
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I've researched this subject to the ends of the earth, including contacting several contributors on this thread.

Everyone seems to agree the solid (metal to metal) heim joints wear quickly on a street car, while everyone else who had the Meagan Toe arms seemed satisfied (...even though they look like the "least likely to succeed" based on the phots and the company). Since the Megan's are constructed of steel, they are slightly stiffer than everyone else's aftermarket aluminum arms, and they have a longer lasting & quieter spherical joint (similar in construction to M3 rod end, I'm told)

BTW - If you call Megan directly, they don't seem to know any of this.

I installed the Megan Toe Arms, got a very good 4 wheel alignment, and set rear toe-in to the max end of the range, as specified by Dinan. (i have a Dinan Stage III suspension). I had already replaced all of the other suspension bits and subframe bushings with M3 hardware, installed an LSD, and still had horrible "torque steer" in the rear. After the installation of the Megan Arms and the fresh alignment, I eliminated 90%+ of the "rear torque steer", and can finally drive the car with control and confidence.

So if you don't want conventional heim joints, your primary choices are (as other have mentioned):

1) The Megan Toe Arms - have not heard any negative comments from other owners so far....if anyone has anything to add please chime in.

2) Install the BMW Performance N bushings sold by Turner Motorsports - I have not found any feedback from anyone that has installed these.

3) Install the Powerflex Urethane Bushings - I was intrigued by this option because: you don't need a press to install them, urethane is stiffer than rubber, and Powerflex offers them in 2 hardnesses.
http://www.harrisonmotorsports.com/p...2006-2011.html
Powerflex seems big in Europe and UK, but I couldn't find anyone that had installed them. I decided against them for fear of squeaking, although Poweflex supplies a copper based grease they claim will prevent this.

If anyone has installed the BMW Performance N or Powerflex bushings in stock arms I'd love to hear some feedback, as that's the way I'd go if/when the Megan arms fail.
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      09-16-2014, 01:22 PM   #139
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^ one of these days I'll give feedback on the group n bushings in the oe toe arms... I wouldn't use polyurethane in an articulating control arm; it'll get squeaky pretty quickly.
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      09-16-2014, 05:01 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
Pete
Did you install the group n bushings in your oe toe links? If not I'll buy them from you. I've been wanting to do that for a while. I don't need adjustable toe links since my car is easily aligned at its current ride height.
Peter
No, they didn't get installed. I found them and they have the original tags still attached. They're the same parts as those sold for the trailing arm bushings as well so the tag lists both applications.

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      09-16-2014, 08:41 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
I've not read one complaint about the Megan racing toe arms but you don't need adjustable toe links since your car isn't lowered very much. CJ421 and justpete have installed different rod ends in the RE toe links but I like firmer bushings in the oem links. The Meyle bushings I have are a little firmer rubber but not firm enough IMO. I'm going to try BMW Motorsport bushings in the oem links.
Thanks for this. I threw out my old parts.... I only have the RE arms now.

Where did you guys get the bushings? cost? Do you need tools to put them in?

Or just buy new megan arms? (where do you get those too?)

Thanks guys.
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      09-16-2014, 08:48 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by DaFish View Post
Thanks for this. I threw out my old parts.... I only have the RE arms now.

Where did you guys get the bushings? cost? Do you need tools to put them in?

Or just buy new megan arms? (where do you get those too?)

Thanks guys.
Turner Motorsports sells the bushings. I'm pretty sure you'll need a press and something to compress the circumference or whatever. I haven't seen the tooling so just guessing.

Megan has a website and from what I've learned the arms are actually made by Hardrace, definitely quality stuff.
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      09-16-2014, 08:56 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motuman View Post
I've researched this subject to the ends of the earth, including contacting several contributors on this thread.

Everyone seems to agree the solid (metal to metal) heim joints wear quickly on a street car, while everyone else who had the Meagan Toe arms seemed satisfied (...even though they look like the "least likely to succeed" based on the phots and the company). Since the Megan's are constructed of steel, they are slightly stiffer than everyone else's aftermarket aluminum arms, and they have a longer lasting & quieter spherical joint (similar in construction to M3 rod end, I'm told)

BTW - If you call Megan directly, they don't seem to know any of this.

I installed the Megan Toe Arms, got a very good 4 wheel alignment, and set rear toe-in to the max end of the range, as specified by Dinan. (i have a Dinan Stage III suspension). I had already replaced all of the other suspension bits and subframe bushings with M3 hardware, installed an LSD, and still had horrible "torque steer" in the rear. After the installation of the Megan Arms and the fresh alignment, I eliminated 90%+ of the "rear torque steer", and can finally drive the car with control and confidence.

So if you don't want conventional heim joints, your primary choices are (as other have mentioned):

1) The Megan Toe Arms - have not heard any negative comments from other owners so far....if anyone has anything to add please chime in.

2) Install the BMW Performance N bushings sold by Turner Motorsports - I have not found any feedback from anyone that has installed these.

3) Install the Powerflex Urethane Bushings - I was intrigued by this option because: you don't need a press to install them, urethane is stiffer than rubber, and Powerflex offers them in 2 hardnesses.
http://www.harrisonmotorsports.com/p...2006-2011.html
Powerflex seems big in Europe and UK, but I couldn't find anyone that had installed them. I decided against them for fear of squeaking, although Poweflex supplies a copper based grease they claim will prevent this.

If anyone has installed the BMW Performance N or Powerflex bushings in stock arms I'd love to hear some feedback, as that's the way I'd go if/when the Megan arms fail.
Great... thanks for all this, I certainly don't need to re-invent the wheel and do all this work.

I'll do the megan arms and be done with it (even though they are PINK...WTF...). I can get them locally too, I just checked their distribution.

http://www.meganracing.com/product.a...d=891&catid=93
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      09-16-2014, 11:18 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFish
Quote:
Originally Posted by motuman View Post
I've researched this subject to the ends of the earth, including contacting several contributors on this thread.

Everyone seems to agree the solid (metal to metal) heim joints wear quickly on a street car, while everyone else who had the Meagan Toe arms seemed satisfied (...even though they look like the "least likely to succeed" based on the phots and the company). Since the Megan's are constructed of steel, they are slightly stiffer than everyone else's aftermarket aluminum arms, and they have a longer lasting & quieter spherical joint (similar in construction to M3 rod end, I'm told)

BTW - If you call Megan directly, they don't seem to know any of this.

I installed the Megan Toe Arms, got a very good 4 wheel alignment, and set rear toe-in to the max end of the range, as specified by Dinan. (i have a Dinan Stage III suspension). I had already replaced all of the other suspension bits and subframe bushings with M3 hardware, installed an LSD, and still had horrible "torque steer" in the rear. After the installation of the Megan Arms and the fresh alignment, I eliminated 90%+ of the "rear torque steer", and can finally drive the car with control and confidence.

So if you don't want conventional heim joints, your primary choices are (as other have mentioned):

1) The Megan Toe Arms - have not heard any negative comments from other owners so far....if anyone has anything to add please chime in.

2) Install the BMW Performance N bushings sold by Turner Motorsports - I have not found any feedback from anyone that has installed these.

3) Install the Powerflex Urethane Bushings - I was intrigued by this option because: you don't need a press to install them, urethane is stiffer than rubber, and Powerflex offers them in 2 hardnesses.
http://www.harrisonmotorsports.com/p...2006-2011.html
Powerflex seems big in Europe and UK, but I couldn't find anyone that had installed them. I decided against them for fear of squeaking, although Poweflex supplies a copper based grease they claim will prevent this.

If anyone has installed the BMW Performance N or Powerflex bushings in stock arms I'd love to hear some feedback, as that's the way I'd go if/when the Megan arms fail.
Great... thanks for all this, I certainly don't need to re-invent the wheel and do all this work.

I'll do the megan arms and be done with it (even though they are PINK...WTF...). I can get them locally too, I just checked their distribution.

http://www.meganracing.com/product.a...d=891&catid=93
Best bet if you tossed the oe toe links. Pink is the new black and your undercarriage will be psychedelic
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      02-17-2015, 03:50 PM   #145
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CVC did you ever install the group N bushings in your OE toe arms? I'm in the same boat, having terrible rear wheel hop since I upgraded my turbo. I have the M3 SF bushings, guide rods and upper links already. Thinking I should upgrade the toe arms to see if that helps before locking down the diff to avoid NVH. My car is lowered only 1/2" from sport suspension height, so I don't need the adjustability, just the stiffness of the toe arm upgrade. Trying to decide whether to replace the bushings on the OE piece or get one of those pink things from Megan.
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      02-18-2015, 12:21 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobert View Post
CVC did you ever install the group N bushings in your OE toe arms? I'm in the same boat, having terrible rear wheel hop since I upgraded my turbo. I have the M3 SF bushings, guide rods and upper links already. Thinking I should upgrade the toe arms to see if that helps before locking down the diff to avoid NVH. My car is lowered only 1/2" from sport suspension height, so I don't need the adjustability, just the stiffness of the toe arm upgrade. Trying to decide whether to replace the bushings on the OE piece or get one of those pink things from Megan.
No I've got Meyle's toe arms. I bought the group n bushings but Sonic MS couldn't press them into my oem toe arms; guess you need a special tool. I've got 3 group n bushings f/s if you've got a shop that can press them in; one got destroyed I think nvh will go up a little bit with Megan's toe arms but they seem to be the best bet.
Wheel hop? Absent solid SF bushings the diff lockdown may be what you need to eliminate that. nvh will increase.
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      02-18-2015, 06:58 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
No I've got Meyle's toe arms. I bought the group n bushings but Sonic MS couldn't press them into my oem toe arms; guess you need a special tool. I've got 3 group n bushings f/s if you've got a shop that can press them in; one got destroyed I think nvh will go up a little bit with Megan's toe arms but they seem to be the best bet.
Wheel hop? Absent solid SF bushings the diff lockdown may be what you need to eliminate that. nvh will increase.
Sonic is my shop too (thanks), guess I won't bother asking them if they can install those bushings. I'm looking at the Boost Addictions diff lockdown, it retains the stock diff bushings so I'm hoping it does the job without increasing nvh.
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      02-24-2015, 12:47 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
No I've got Meyle's toe arms. I bought the group n bushings but Sonic MS couldn't press them into my oem toe arms; guess you need a special tool. I've got 3 group n bushings f/s if you've got a shop that can press them in; one got destroyed I think nvh will go up a little bit with Megan's toe arms but they seem to be the best bet.
Wheel hop? Absent solid SF bushings the diff lockdown may be what you need to eliminate that. nvh will increase.
FYI I have another shop that says they can install the group n bushings. I ordered a set from Turner and will let you know how it goes. Just couldn't deal with the pink thing.
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      02-24-2015, 12:51 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobert
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
No I've got Meyle's toe arms. I bought the group n bushings but Sonic MS couldn't press them into my oem toe arms; guess you need a special tool. I've got 3 group n bushings f/s if you've got a shop that can press them in; one got destroyed I think nvh will go up a little bit with Megan's toe arms but they seem to be the best bet.
Wheel hop? Absent solid SF bushings the diff lockdown may be what you need to eliminate that. nvh will increase.
FYI I have another shop that says they can install the group n bushings. I ordered a set from Turner and will let you know how it goes. Just couldn't deal with the pink thing.
I have 3 brand new ones if you're interested. If not let me know how it goes and I may buy 1 more and give it another try. Just got another alignment when I got rid of my camber plates
OT: been reading your posts and it sounds like you may need rsf bushings firmer than M3
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      02-24-2015, 01:55 AM   #150
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Quote:
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FYI I have another shop that says they can install the group n bushings. I ordered a set from Turner and will let you know how it goes. Just couldn't deal with the pink thing.
which shop performance technique?
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      10-06-2015, 08:29 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobert View Post
FYI I have another shop that says they can install the group n bushings. I ordered a set from Turner and will let you know how it goes. Just couldn't deal with the pink thing.
How are those new bushings in the OE toe arms?

It looks like they're no longer pink but blue now
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      10-06-2015, 10:53 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
How are those new bushings in the OE toe arms?

It looks like they're no longer pink but blue now

To be honest I did not notice any difference in the way the car felt after swapping those bushings out. Glad to hear they changed them from girl color to boy color!
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      11-03-2015, 06:07 PM   #153
houtan
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any other updates on toe arm feedback? Anyone else try out the bushing replacements? How about experiences with the Megan arms, ground control, akg, hpa, or RE?

I would like to get a set prior to my next alignment and wanted to see if anyone else has any inputs/experiences to share.

Last edited by houtan; 11-03-2015 at 06:30 PM..
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      11-04-2015, 06:16 PM   #154
Cloud9blue
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I have Megan. Had it on almost a year now. Nearly 9k miles on them, with half of dozen track day. No noise, still feel as solid as new (didn't even buy them new).
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