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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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what should be replaced @ 60k miles on a 328i?
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05-14-2012, 04:17 PM | #45 |
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Your to do list is an overkill in my opinion.
- Spark Plugs are due at 45k and its very likely they were replaced under BMW's maintenaince program (mine were replaced). If your injectors are bad (making ticking noise) then you want to take care of them. Otherwise you're good. - ATF is due at 100k miles. You are only at 60k. So you are good for another 40k miles. Replace differential fluid when you'd replace ATF. - Coolant should be good at 60k. - Water Pump - You're good until it dies. - Brakes and Rotors - Check your CBS indicator or until you're having issues with brake in genral (I recommend R1 concepts rotors and Axxis or even stock brake pads). - Belts - Are they making noise at start up? If not, keep driving - Power Steering Flush - Not needed - Brake Fluid - Every 2 years or as indicated by CBS So only thing you really need is probably cabin filter and engine oil/filter. |
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05-14-2012, 05:27 PM | #46 | ||
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05-14-2012, 05:59 PM | #47 |
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Op has a 328 not a 335
Op has a 328 not a 335
If you go with the BMW recommendation for a 328 you wouldn't change the spark plugs till 100k. Some of the responses on here sound like the guys work for BMW or drank the BMW coolaid. |
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05-15-2012, 01:51 AM | #48 | |
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I hear that if you wait til 100k, it'll seiize to the threads. I might just check to be safe. But thank you, I get what you mean. But their help seems to be swaying me to check things I haven't even thought of yet
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05-15-2012, 07:36 AM | #49 | |
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I come from DIY ownership of a 1998 E39 which I kept in top notch condition. Those of us who own the older cars can more easily see the difference in long term reliability when "old school" maintenance intervals are followed. Those with newer platforms may not have discovered this for themselves...yet. Every time I change a fluid on an "overkill" schedule, I feel an improvement in the operation of that system (MT, diff, transmission, brake, clutch, whatever). Obviously the fluid properties have changed from the original properties and a replacement was due. Sure you aren't going to "feel" a coolant change but if the pH or anti-electrolysis additives are used up you can actually have your head and block being eaten from the inside out - I've seen it before. Quality fluids aren't all that expensive - take care of your expensive equipment. I have a 328i that I've just recently purchased with around 60k mi on it. Unfortunately BMW intervals were used but it was the best car I found in weeks of searching and I couldn't look around any longer.
If you've just bought a "new" used car you plan to keep, do a nose-to-tail fluid change unless it came with clear records indicating that this was already done. Ditto for plugs, belt (depending on mileage) etc... You don't need to change the brakes just because you got a new car - just look at them to determine wear, if they're rusty and if they appear to be operating properly based on the appearance of the swept area of the rotor. If they're fine, wait until they wear out but bleed fresh fluid through. On water pumps - I have to say the E90's electric pump makes me a little nervous in that it can fail with no warning at all. With the older mechanical pumps usually there is weeping, or noise, or shaft play that you can watch out for. They also cost 1/10th of what the E90 pump costs so preventive replacement was not a financial hardship. I believe my 02/2007 production 328i has "second generation" electric pump so perhaps I'll be lucky. I also plan to eventually get a good scanning system like BT or AE so I'll be able to look for the slightest sign of "soft codes" about the water pump. I would also suggest a quality, by-the-book (i.e. weight ballast in the seats) four wheel alignment if it has never been done. These cars often/usually come wrong from the factory let alone after 60k on the road. OP: Enjoy your "new" 328! Last edited by Surly73; 05-15-2012 at 02:11 PM.. |
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05-15-2012, 02:07 PM | #51 | ||
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I'm suprised that it jumped off this much, even though it isn't. 10 pages long, it still has very crucial information
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05-15-2012, 02:24 PM | #52 |
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This is an example of what I meant by inspecting the serpentine ribbed belt:
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/ser...57/#post488507 The cracking isn't always visible until removed and bent in reverse. |
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05-15-2012, 02:35 PM | #53 | |||
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Filters, pads, rotors, bushings, suspension arms, end links etc...etc... are easily found at OES suppliers for a fraction of dealer cost (even good dealers). |
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05-15-2012, 05:26 PM | #54 | |||
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05-15-2012, 06:08 PM | #55 |
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I think its been mentioned but if you definitely want to keep the car forever, you should contact Mike Miller and get his old school maintenance schedule. Its a super comprehensive list of just about everything you should or shouldn't do for long term maintenance.
His email is: AUSPUF2002 at aol dot com. It may even be an automated response because I sent an email and pretty much instantly received the pdf file. Tons of good info.
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05-15-2012, 07:11 PM | #56 | ||
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05-15-2012, 07:30 PM | #57 | |
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Interviewer: The most exciting moment during the race weekend?
Kimi: I think so it's the race start, always. Interviewer: The most boring? Kimi: Now. |
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05-15-2012, 10:41 PM | #58 | |
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Thank you sir!
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05-17-2012, 08:54 PM | #59 |
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So I just changed the diff fluid on my ~65k 328i. It didn't look mortifying but it was solid glitter when visible in the sunlight. My 6 y/o daughter could have done crafts with the used fluid.
The new fluid is Amsoil SVG (Severe Gear 75W90). On the test drive the whole rear end of the car is noticeably quieter. Now I need to get to the 6MT and the noisy alternator bearing and I'm all set. I really, really want to get the 6MT fluid changed, but the rear transmission seal is leaking just enough to attract dust to the rear of the transmission. I have ~1yr left on a third party extended warranty which is in the process of being transferred from the previous owner to me. I'm not sure I want non-OEM fluid in there if I get it repaired under that warranty (seal replacement). On the other hand, fresh fluid may clean and recondition the seal (especially if I used Redline) and no repair may be necessary. I noticed a little bit of dampness on the diff near the seal too. My overmaintained E39 which always had fresh fluids never had a single leak of any kind except for the PS fluid cap o-ring and they all do that.... |
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06-07-2012, 04:34 PM | #60 |
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My 330i was at 97k when I replaced them, id highly recommended not to go that far, mine where pretty bad and in my personal opinion it puts stress on coils. I'm going to do 50k besides some ngks are cheap not big deal.
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06-08-2012, 06:53 PM | #61 | |
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I've been broke lately and thought of just waiting til 67000 miles before replacing them, is that still good? Or would it do a lot of harm to wait?
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10-09-2012, 07:01 PM | #62 |
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I put 2400 miles / month. I have 57k since February 2011. I do oil changes every 7500miles. but have not touched any fluids until finding the bavauto checklist posted on here. Do i have special fluid change requirements since I do high mileage?
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10-10-2012, 08:00 AM | #63 |
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I just want to say, i really appreciate this thread. It has motivated me to have everything checked. Had my 06 since 08 and snout to hit 100k. I want to have this car forever.
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10-10-2012, 01:58 PM | #64 | ||
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I never thought this thread would help this much, I'm glad its helping you as well!
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10-11-2012, 05:04 AM | #65 |
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I love this thread. I am canceling my warranty with BMW now they have replaced my Turbos and I need to be on top of things to prevent failures. I have a good indie but I will try and do most things my self.
I have just filled out the Bavarian Otto’s Ultimate Maintenance Schedule... I am at 64,000 miles and 6 years old. My car has been in and out for servicing for BMW... Everything honestly looks fine and they haven't brought anything up that requires attention. Is it worthwhile sorting the following? Fuel filter Accessory drive belts Coolant hoses Oxygen sensors I think I need to do my automatic transmission fluid, BUT do you think they changed that when the dropped my engine out the car to do my turbos? Btw what is a charcoal canister.... Thanks for all who have contributed to this thread. |
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10-11-2012, 11:15 AM | #66 | ||
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I doubt they changed your transmission oil for kicks, bmw is very cheap and didn't even want to change my break-in fluids when I bought the car. I forgot where I read but at 1500, the dealership has to do a complete flush of all fluids to get all the metals out of the engine, transmission, and differential. Bmw's transmission oil is for a "lifetime" but in car terms, that means 100k. Just make sure when you do change your oil though, you add a few drops of mineral oil and a few drops of assembly lube in your rear diff. Oil stabilizer works too Btw, I have no clue what a charcoal canister is lol
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