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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > 2006 325i overheating



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      03-15-2010, 02:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason R View Post
I read on this forum that it was ok to use zerex g-05 coolant. Is that info wrong?
Per Valvoline (sp?) it's not approved for use in BMW's.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerexg05.pdf
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      03-15-2010, 06:19 PM   #24
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ok i must've have talked to some idiot at the dealership. I called the one on the other side of town and was told its $19.95 per gallon. Hopefully i'll be getting around to working on the car wednesday night.
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      03-15-2010, 09:24 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Jason R View Post
Did your car ever throw a check engine light for either one? did you do it yourself or take it somewhere? how much did it cost you?


i had the car up in the air and did a pressure test. no leaks. cooling system is holding pressure fine. i let the car run for a little while with the pressure tester on there and it never got to the point where it was too hot. Could it be the coolant reservoir cap? But where on earth would the coolant be disappearing and why? I guess I'll try the coolant reservoir cap first.
Here's a thread that I started on the overheating issue........

the electrical water pump is the main problem.....the pressure test will show no leak!!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=342888
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Last edited by NaTuReB0Y; 03-15-2010 at 09:32 PM..
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      03-17-2010, 05:49 AM   #26
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I noticed that in your thread you said your upper hose was not getting hot. The hose on this car is getting hot indicating that the water pump is working. I'm hoping there is just air in the system and thats why the car is running hot and the heater is blowing cold air.
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      03-17-2010, 08:07 AM   #27
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This DIY on changing the coolant explains how to bleed the air out of the system:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=coolant
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      03-17-2010, 10:17 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ;
6932362
This DIY on changing the coolant explains how to bleed the air out of the system:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=coolant
I printed that off the other day. I will putting in fresh coolant tonight. Thanks for the heads up man.
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      03-17-2010, 06:47 PM   #29
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I had 8000mi on mine and got a yellow coolent temp warning quickly followed by red coolent temp warning. A OBD scan revealed a dead water pump. I replaced it and the problem never returned. I have 125k mi on the car now.
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      03-17-2010, 07:13 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
I had 8000mi on mine and got a yellow coolent temp warning quickly followed by red coolent temp warning. A OBD scan revealed a dead water pump. I replaced it and the problem never returned. I have 125k mi on the car now.
I'm beginning to think its the water pump. I just tried venting the system and the pump never came on. Ugh.
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      03-17-2010, 07:36 PM   #31
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Leave it on for a bit longer. The pump remains off until the car warms up a bit. That's why mine took a while before I got a warning light. The computer didn't know anything was worng until it tried to turn on the water pump.
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      03-17-2010, 08:54 PM   #32
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Replaced the water pump......and if I were you.....do the thermostat too.......
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      03-17-2010, 09:16 PM   #33
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I tried venting the system numerous times this evening and the water pump never did come on to vent any air in the system to the reservoir tank. is this a sign that the water pump is dead?

Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
I had 8000mi on mine and got a yellow coolent temp warning quickly followed by red coolent temp warning. A OBD scan revealed a dead water pump. I replaced it and the problem never returned. I have 125k mi on the car now.
did you have a check engine light on indicating that your water pump was dead?
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      03-18-2010, 09:10 PM   #34
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anybody?
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      03-18-2010, 09:57 PM   #35
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I haven't had a dead water pump, but each of the 3 times I bleed the air out of my system you could hear the pump running for the 10-12 mins. Sounds like a mini washing machine. I had a trickle changer connected to prevent the battery flattening.
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      03-18-2010, 10:14 PM   #36
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No check engine light but the red light came on because of a water pump malfunction according to the dealer. It came on before the car overheated.
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      03-19-2010, 09:35 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
I haven't had a dead water pump, but each of the 3 times I bleed the air out of my system you could hear the pump running for the 10-12 mins. Sounds like a mini washing machine. I had a trickle changer connected to prevent the battery flattening.
yeah, i tried on several different occassions to bleed the air out of the system and the water pump never came on.
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      11-26-2011, 10:23 PM   #38
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Im Having That Problem

My car was heating up, 2006 325i. When i turned the AC on, it would make a loud noice. when i would turn the wheel. Yesterday, i got the red warning light and took it to the shop. The mechanic changes the thermostat but that didnt help, the car keept getting over heated. He is going to change the water pump. He thinks that will fix the problem. He says the pump cost about 600 USD is that about right?
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      11-26-2011, 10:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_JGAR View Post
My car was heating up, 2006 325i. When i turned the AC on, it would make a loud noice. when i would turn the wheel. Yesterday, i got the red warning light and took it to the shop. The mechanic changes the thermostat but that didnt help, the car keept getting over heated. He is going to change the water pump. He thinks that will fix the problem. He says the pump cost about 600 USD is that about right?
About right. http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._E095124A.aspx
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      12-19-2011, 12:14 PM   #40
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I have a similar problem, but I believe the pump is functioning (when bleeding the air). After bleeding the air out the car runs fine for few thousand miles, then the problem starts again...The car overheats and the coolant vents out the cap. Upon restarting the tempature immediately drops to roughly 80C (using hidden obc) from 115C and the car drives fine once again. No CEL, heat blows fine, both hoses fine..... Could the waterpump be shutting off? and upon restarting the car it restarts?
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      01-28-2012, 08:11 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason R View Post
This is my fiance's car. Its got about 104k miles on it and it just started doing this last night. An alarm came on on the navigation screen telling her to pullover as the car was beginning to overheat. I popped the hood and the coolant reservoir was wet and could see where it had made its way to the ground in the same area underneath the coolant tank. We got the car home and I started it up, turned the heat on full blast and it was warm for about 5 seconds and then it immediately went cool.

Could the water pump be the culprit? or maybe the thermostat? Thanks in advanced!
its the water pump i had the same problem an if u blew the fuse its located under the hood ,its located under the cover were the wiper blades are take all the plastic apart to get to the fuse the water pump is easy to fix the water pump is located on the passenger side underneth the exhaust manifold its cost about $530 just for the electric pump if any more questions hit me back i can help u step by step
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      01-28-2012, 08:17 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_JGAR View Post
My car was heating up, 2006 325i. When i turned the AC on, it would make a loud noice. when i would turn the wheel. Yesterday, i got the red warning light and took it to the shop. The mechanic changes the thermostat but that didnt help, the car keept getting over heated. He is going to change the water pump. He thinks that will fix the problem. He says the pump cost about 600 USD is that about right?
if u look online u can find a elctric water pump for $420 ...an check the fuse underneth the hood its located were the wiper blades are take all the plastic apart to get to it i hope this salves your problem ...
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      01-28-2012, 08:21 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason R View Post
yeah, i tried on several different occassions to bleed the air out of the system and the water pump never came on.
check the fuse under the hood its located were the wiper blades are take all the plastics apart to get to it theres a fuse box under there hope this solves your problem ...
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      01-31-2012, 07:39 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnice View Post
if u look online u can find a elctric water pump for $420 ...an check the fuse underneth the hood its located were the wiper blades are take all the plastic apart to get to it i hope this salves your problem ...
where's a good place to get it for this price?
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