[robertm]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

What oil? The cheap BMW "synthetic" is crap.

What do you recommend? I'm changing oil every 5k using the BMW stuff. Didn't know it was crap though. Will a better oil deposit less? Also does more frequent oil change intervals help prevent build up? I'm adding seafoam prior to oil changes (into oil method). Will be adding OCC soon. Hopefully all this adds up to something..

[JamesM3M5]

Oil that has a lower vapor and flash point will help dramatically. Do this quick check. With the engine hot (full operating temperature), shut the engine off and open the oil cap. If you see a lot of hazy oil fog, you have an oil that vaporizes easily. Many lower grades of "synthetic", e.g. Group III synthetics which aren't really synthetic by definition, will break down and vaporize especially at our high oil temps.

I always recommend Motul. I have several friends/colleagues with Motul 5W40 X-Cess (BMW LL-01 approved) run in their cars (E9x 335, 328, 330) either since new or as soon as their free oil changes ran out. ALL of them are literally clean, shiny metal inside, not even a gold tint to the aluminum under the valve cover. No VANOS solenoid faults, no ticking lifters, no issues whatsoever. Other good oils are Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 0W40, but I have no direct experience with them.

My 335i was probably dealer maintained up until the owner traded it to CarMax last Sept. I got it with 46k miles, MASSIVE carbon deposits in the intake, and ran Motul in it for about 11,000 miles before changing it. I added only 1/2 liter of oil over the course of that oil interval. I also will pull the intake again to inspect - cleaned in Oct last year, about 13k miles on it so far.

[335i-boy]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

One of the main symptoms that started appearing was one that you get when you get the code for the coolant sensor gradient. all of a sudden on the freeway, you will just lose power randomly with no warning lights or ses lights popping up. So you have to pull over, restart the car, and everything is fine again. Every time it kept losing power, I would hear the radiator fan come on full blast. And this happened even when I was on the stock map.

Dmacc, thank you for starting this thread.

I have also experienced the exact same loss of power on the freeway along with the radiator fan coming on full blast as well. This has happened twice. The car would just not build boost. After stopping and restarting the car, all was fine. I scanned for codes and got the same coolant sensor gradient fault. This is the first time I have come across someone else that has experienced this!

I am at 30,000mls now and have had the intake valves cleaned under warranty @ around 23,000mls. I can't remember if these incidents of lost power were before or after the valve clean.

Just to clarify, are you saying that these "lost power" incidents were a symptom of dirty valves that are at a stage that require cleaning?

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by 335i-boy

Dmacc, thank you for starting this thread.

I have also experienced the exact same loss of power on the freeway along with the radiator fan coming on full blast as well. This has happened twice. The car would just not build boost. After stopping and restarting the car, all was fine. I scanned for codes and got the same coolant sensor gradient fault. This is the first time I have come across someone else that has experienced this!

I am at 30,000mls now and have had the intake valves cleaned under warranty @ around 23,000mls. I can't remember if these incidents of lost power were before or after the valve clean.

Just to clarify, are you saying that these "lost power" incidents were a symptom of dirty valves that are at a stage that require cleaning?

I'm picking up the car in about 30 minutes and then I will be able to determine if the problems I was having are gone or not, I'll update this thread in a few hours with some answers!

[Shahdog]

That is scary

In the bay area. We should arrange a group walnut blast



I don't need yet, but would like to arrange
A reasonable price

$500...?

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by Shahdog

That is scary

In the bay area. We should arrange a group walnut blast



I don't need yet, but would like to arrange
A reasonable price

$500...?

a groupbuy on local walnut blasting would probably the best idea i've ever heard!

[Blubaron79]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

It's just a matter of time before another law suit is started for misfires due to rapid carbon build up, or at least an attempt at a law suit haha

Yes. BMWNA acknowledged it was a problem, and did mine for free.

[Smythe]

Originally Posted by Shahdog

That is scary

In the bay area. We should arrange a group walnut blast



I don't need yet, but would like to arrange
A reasonable price

$500...?

While my car doesn't currently exhibit any issues, it is at 101,000mi, and the valves have never been cleaned. I think it's probably a good idea to do it soon!

I would love to get in on a group buy.

[M3 Eater]

My sa looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for walnut blasting. Don't expect to get get it done under CPo

[Blackhawk36]

Originally Posted by vF335i

which dealer do you go to that offers walnut blasting? just wondering cuz i asked fremont and they only do the chemical method

When I talked to Tischer yesterday the service manager told me the walnut blaster and the media were automatic ship to all dealers fairly recently. My selling dealer, Russel BMW, knew nothing about the walnut blasting procedure. If they don't know about it stay away.

[Blackhawk36]

Originally Posted by Shahdog

That is scary

In the bay area. We should arrange a group walnut blast



I don't need yet, but would like to arrange
A reasonable price

$500...?

Search hard. There is a guy (BMW Tech) in the Bay area that does it for $300 if you can get a group together. He does it while you wait evenings and weekends.

[raceyBMW]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Oil that has a lower vapor and flash point will help dramatically. Do this quick check. With the engine hot (full operating temperature), shut the engine off and open the oil cap. If you see a lot of hazy oil fog, you have an oil that vaporizes easily. Many lower grades of "synthetic", e.g. Group III synthetics which aren't really synthetic by definition, will break down and vaporize especially at our high oil temps.

I always recommend Motul. I have several friends/colleagues with Motul 5W40 X-Cess (BMW LL-01 approved) run in their cars (E9x 335, 328, 330) either since new or as soon as their free oil changes ran out. ALL of them are literally clean, shiny metal inside, not even a gold tint to the aluminum under the valve cover. No VANOS solenoid faults, no ticking lifters, no issues whatsoever. Other good oils are Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 0W40, but I have no direct experience with them.

My 335i was probably dealer maintained up until the owner traded it to CarMax last Sept. I got it with 46k miles, MASSIVE carbon deposits in the intake, and ran Motul in it for about 11,000 miles before changing it. I added only 1/2 liter of oil over the course of that oil interval. I also will pull the intake again to inspect - cleaned in Oct last year, about 13k miles on it so far.

FWIW, I have ran Mobil1 0W40 with oil changes every 7,500 miles from pretty much day one of this car, with 42k miles now, and never did an easy break-in process. When I took off my stock intercooler about 1k miles ago (first time off, to replace with HPF) it was pretty much sparkling clean in there, and my BMS OCC had no oil after 5k miles so far.

[Shahdog]

Originally Posted by Blackhawk36

Search hard. There is a guy (BMW Tech) in the Bay area that does it for $300 if you can get a group together. He does it while you wait evenings and weekends.

Very very interesting

[muzzammil15]

My valves were pretty bad when I took mine in for cleaning, and I only had 24,400 miles on my car. You are going to get carbon built up on your valves no matter what. The shop foreman at BMW told me it depends on how you drive the car as well. If you do a lot of stop and go driving, the build up will be much sooner, than if you drive your car hard or do a lot of highway driving.

[335okc]

do you guys have a hard time finding dealer that does walnut shell blasting ? i called mine and they said neither them or the other dealer in Oklahoma does this anymore.

[Blackhawk36]

I just spent the day cleaning my intake valves. Car has 75k miles on it. I did it myself with small brushes, rags, gumout and seafoam. The reason I did it instead of paying someone was that I wasn't sure my symptoms were from carbon buildup. Turns out they were. Car runs awesome after 5 hours and some elbow grease. I think I only got about 90% of the carbon out though. Next time, and there will be a next time, it will be walnut blasting.

[Blackhawk36]

Originally Posted by Shahdog

Very very interesting

Looks like I have the location a little off. Here is the thread.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676703

Looks like Lake Forest, CA

Bit of hump from the Bay Area, Sorry.

that being said, someone should be able to arrange one. My guess is you bring this thread into a local shop and see what you can get. The dealer here in Maryland (Tischer) charges $865.

[weq92f]

I Wonder if one if these mobile sand blasting outfits would do it if I took the thing apart? Exactly where in the intake is the problem and what's necessary to expose it?? Pics??

-klb

[Blackhawk36]

Originally Posted by weq92f

I Wonder if one if these mobile sand blasting outfits would do it if I took the thing apart? Exactly where in the intake is the problem and what's necessary to expose it?? Pics??

-klb

klb, you need to remove the intake manifold. Then you look in the intake ports. There will be a thick layer of black goo everwhere and there will be clumps of it on the intake valve stems and on the back of the valves. I would estimate in my case that it was obstructing about one third of the air flow. It was very noticable accelerating under boost. The engine would shudder. You want to look at this thread. Plenty of pics and mine looked exactly like this.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=carbon

[weq92f]

Nice thread thanks! I got mine at 30k ( 07, mt, sport ). No evidence of tuning when I poped th cover off. It stayed stock up to 40k when it got new turbos. Around 60 now and without tune I get a surging effect at speed and WOT sometimes.

I figure I cane pull the intake and have the
Mobile truck come around ti clean them up. Have to contact them n see if they can do soft? media blasting.

Don't think mine Is ready though.

[510135]

Hello I have already tried posting this in 1Addicts with little response.
My car (135i) randomly throws a misfire code cylinder 6 only. Normally in 1st gear full throttle just after traction control starts to kick in, then again today on kick down at 60mph 3rd gear I think.

I have already changed plugs, coils and injectors (fuel pump also recently done) also cleaned and swapped vanos solenoids.
This hasn't happened in ages (since changing all the above) except when I changed jb4 to map 5, I normally run map 1 but decided to change to 5 last night. The car was pulling smoothly all day then all of a sudden misfire in cylinder 6. I have since put it back to map 1 without any replication of the misfire, the car does feel quite sluggish though. The only avenue I havent tried is the Valve carbon clean, could this recuring misfire be attributed to carbon build up? my car has 35,000 miles on it.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by nik0123

Hello I have already tried posting this in 1Addicts with little response.
My car (135i) randomly throws a misfire code cylinder 6 only. Normally in 1st gear full throttle just after traction control starts to kick in, then again today on kick down at 60mph 3rd gear I think.

I have already changed plugs, coils and injectors (fuel pump also recently done) also cleaned and swapped vanos solenoids.
This hasn't happened in ages (since changing all the above) except when I changed jb4 to map 5, I normally run map 1 but decided to change to 5 last night. The car was pulling smoothly all day then all of a sudden misfire in cylinder 6. I have since put it back to map 1 without any replication of the misfire, the car does feel quite sluggish though. The only avenue I havent tried is the Valve carbon clean, could this recuring misfire be attributed to carbon build up? my car has 35,000 miles on it.

Check your coil pack on cyl 6 to make sure it's not the culprit, try switching it with cyl 5 and see if you throw the misfire on cyl 5. I had misfires after my valve cleaning, coil pack was the problem!