[e92Kim]

So i have a 2013 e92 335i xdrive with n55, i recently replaced the water pump and thermostat and that stopped the leaking/overheating but there still was no heat, id have to be driving the car for about 30 minutes to an hour for the heat to kick in and that was only when i was stopped. I’ve tried bleeding the system multiple times and nothings change. Then about two weeks later i started leaking coolant again, i decided to drive it home and all was good till i was pulling into my driveway when the car started to over heat. Then every time id turn the car on the radiator fan would turn on full blast and then minutes later it would overheat and leak coolant. Today i started it up and let it run for about 30 minutes till it was fully warmed, the car never overheated and the radiator fan never turned on but i don’t believe the water pump was running at all, and i still had no heat. I’ve tried doing the bleed procedure after i got it home but the water pump doesn’t make a sound and the bleeding procedure never starts. (yes i’m doing it right i’ve had to do it on multiple bmws even this one and they all had the same steps) i’ve tried looking for fuses in the glovebox and in the engine bay and all seem good. I’m new to the whole mechanic scene and i’m just stumped on this problem and would really appreciate some help Diagnosing this problem and i don’t necessarily want to just buy another water pump and thermostat and wasn’t 6hrs of my time doing it again for it to be something stupid. PS when the car was overheating and leaking the codes were(3446, 348A, 387C, 38A4, 293E, 2C42) and when i had the car running and it wasn’t overheating the only codes i got were (3446, 387C, 38A4,)

[GoRomeo]

Where did you buy the water pump from? It could be a defective one if no sound is made when bleeding the system. Can you exchange it for a new replacement under warranty? I would do that next If I were you. Dont take it on a wrong way but Newbies like yourself should not tackle these of jobs. Few things could go wrong with the coolant system and without the experience it can get even worse. Keep us poated.

[e92Kim]

i bought the water pump from mishimoto, what if it’s just something as stupid as a fuse? I don’t even know why i even bothered with the forum’s, obviously i’ve researched my problem and just like every other post everyone just suggests to replace it, i’m looking for other suggestions to further diagnose the problem. the dealership sold me an absolute pile of shit, i’ve had the car for a year and have only driven it for 2 months and the rest has just been sitting in my garage so to suspect that’s there’s another problem at hand isnt insane.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by e92Kim

i bought the water pump from mishimoto, what if it’s just something as stupid as a fuse? I don’t even know why i even bothered with the forum’s, obviously i’ve researched my problem and just like every other post everyone just suggests to replace it, i’m looking for other suggestions to further diagnose the problem. the dealership sold me an absolute pile of shit, i’ve had the car for a year and have only driven it for 2 months and the rest has just been sitting in my garage so to suspect that’s there’s another problem at hand isnt insane.

Well remember we are not experts and can only make suggestions. If you think its a fuse the locate it and test it using a fuse tester. Ive seen forum members here that have dealt witj defective water pumps out of the box.

If you think that about the dealership who sold it to you, then go back to them and ask for warranty if any. Tell exactly what your saying here. Worst case scenario tale it to an andy shop where they can test your water pump. Good luck 👍

[StradaRedlands]

Do you get a "water pump not present" or similar code? Could be a bad pump, bad wiring, poor contact on the plug, or like you said, a fuse. Pump is part of the BSD bus directly from the DME, so something else on that (alternator, oil level sensor, etc.) could be faulty as well. But I think it's something at the plug/wiring for the pump.

[e92Kim]

How would i go about testing the plug/connection to the water pump? The car had a pretty bad oil leak when i bought it so water pump area was covered in oil when i replaced it. I tried to clean up that area as best as i could in my garage with no tools but i could only do so much. So it could be possible that ight could have damage the connection. (yes i plan on fully cleaning the car up but that’s if i can even get the car to the shop so i have all my tools and put it on the lift and tear it down)

[StradaRedlands]

Electrical troubleshooting is above my pay grade, but I would get a baseline by seeing if there are any codes right now. Then unplug and check run it and see if there are new codes while it is physically unplugged. Is the ground wire tightened on properly?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by e92Kim

How would i go about testing the plug/connection to the water pump?...

Unfortunately MOST "Forum Folks" either do NOT have ISTA, or know how to use it. See Attached ISTA ScreenPrints
for YOUR 2013 N55 335i xDrive. If any questions on HOW to test with DMM, please advise.
George

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Unfortunately MOST "Forum Folks" either do NOT have ISTA, or know how to use it.

I resemble that comment!

[e92Kim]

Okay i pulled that fuse out and it don’t look like it was bad but i tested it with a multimeter and got nothing so going to the store rn to see if that works

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I resemble that comment!

A "Knowledgeable Regular Forum Contributor" should NOT 'resemble that'.
If you would like either: (1) files or (2) Tutorials on ISTA use, please send me a PM.
George

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

A "Knowledgeable Regular Forum Contributor" should NOT 'resemble that'.
If you would like either: (1) files or (2) Tutorials on ISTA use, please send me a PM.
George

I've tried to use it... just can't get it operating/connected :-/
Kinda' frustrated at it. Finally gave in and bought Protool which works for coding.
Can't do diagnostics with that though, which is a bummer.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I've tried to use it... just can't get it operating/connected :-/...

ISTA Tutorials are attached. With 4 BMW's, ISTA is a lifesaver. Several Questions:
0) What Version of ISTA do you have? If it's the one BimmerGeeks previously Linked at MEGA, or one I linked in "E9x References", then that's what I use, and it has ONE setting (NOT explained by Install Instructions) needing to be changed to Connect to Vehicle.
1) If you try to use ISTA as a Shop Manual (NOT connected to vehicle) as described in first 5 pages of pdf, does that work? Even if you CANNOT connect to vehicle per (3) below, you can at least see Wiring Diagrams, Repair Operations, Functional Descriptions of Systems, etc.
2) If that works, and entering Vehicle VIN-7 shows correct Vehicle Information for that VIN, then your installation is likely OK, EXCEPT you need to change ONE setting to CONNECT to Vehicle.
3) See "Fault Memory & Test Plan" pdf, & try to connect to vehicle as described on pdf page 1. Note "I. Connect ISTA to Vehicle..." & steps in "1) Connect K+DCAN Cable...", including "VCI Config" settings, if it won't connect.

If you find time to try those tests, please let us know if any issues arise. If you get Error Messages, please attach ScreenPrint of Error Message & what commands were entered by you PRIOR to getting Error Message.
George

[e92Kim]

So i put a new F03 50A fuse in and it blew instantly, i tested the ground and that seemed fine i unplugged the water pump connector and it still blew. I decided to unplug the connector on the battery and the fuse didn’t pop, but as soon as i plugged it back in it popped. I’m going to take apart the battery and check the fuses on distribution box and if those are fine i’m gonna try and trace that wire back. I’m still learning on the whole electrical part, so does this seam like a logic way so to go about this or do you think i’m jumping to ahead from going all the way to the distribution box or am i missing something up front, all fuses and connections seem to be fine i checked them and cleaned them. Also i did download ista and ive been messing around with that, seems like it could be a life saver once i get the hang of it.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by e92Kim

So i put a new F03 50A fuse in and it blew instantly, i tested the ground and that seemed fine i unplugged
the water pump connector and it still blew. I decided to unplug the connector on the battery and the fuse didn’t pop,
but as soon as i plugged it back in it popped...

You have a "short-to-chassis ground" somewhere in the Red wire that runs from fuse F03, to Pump Connector X6035/3.
Note that there is an "Intermediate Connector, X60571, in that line, just in front of the Oil Filler Cap.

See the attached ISTA diagrams, that shows the Connector X60571 between fuse F03 & Pump Connector X6035.
Here are the tests I would do to try to locate the "Short" in that wire:

1) Remove fuse F03 from its socket, AND also DIS-connect X6035 at the pump;
2) Locate & Disconnect X60571, and carefully inspect both sides of that connector & wires at connector for damage;
3) Use a Multimeter, Ohms/Resistance (Ω) selected, with "range" of 2k Ohms; measure resistance/Ohms in relation to
Chassis Ground at Each End of Connector X60571; Red Meter Probe contacting metal pin/socket of X60571
& Black Meter Probe contacting good Metal Chassis Ground. Meter should read "1" or Infinite Ohms/ Resistance
if NO Short-to-Ground, and ZERO (0), or nearly so, Ohms/ Resistance if a "Short" or "Continuity to Ground".

You can "Test" or "Get comfortable" with concept of "Continuity" by setting Meter as described in (3) above, &
touching meter probes TOGETHER, to see Screen go from "1"/ Infinite Resistance or "Open Circuit" to "0"
(or nearly Zero Ohms Resistance) when probes contact each other. ALWAYS remove power from wire BEFORE Testing.
You can also use that method to test for short-to-Ground, INSTEAD of wasting fuses.

Please try that & let us know what you find, or if any questions.
George

[e92Kim]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

You have a "short-to-chassis ground" somewhere in the Red wire that runs from fuse F03, to Pump Connector X6035/3.
Note that there is an "Intermediate Connector, X60571, in that line, just in front of the Oil Filler Cap.

See the attached ISTA diagrams, that shows the Connector X60571 between fuse F03 & Pump Connector X6035.
Here are the tests I would do to try to locate the "Short" in that wire:

1) Remove fuse F03 from its socket, AND also DIS-connect X6035 at the pump;
2) Locate & Disconnect X60571, and carefully inspect both sides of that connector & wires at connector for damage;
3) Use a Multimeter, Ohms/Resistance (&Omega selected, with "range" of 2k Ohms; measure resistance/Ohms in relation to
Chassis Ground at Each End of Connector X60571; Red Meter Probe contacting metal pin/socket of X60571
& Black Meter Probe contacting good Metal Chassis Ground. Meter should read "1" or Infinite Ohms/ Resistance
if NO Short-to-Ground, and ZERO (0), or nearly so, Ohms/ Resistance if a "Short" or "Continuity to Ground".

You can "Test" or "Get comfortable" with concept of "Continuity" by setting Meter as described in (3) above, &
touching meter probes TOGETHER, to see Screen go from "1"/ Infinite Resistance or "Open Circuit" to "0"
(or nearly Zero Ohms Resistance) when probes contact each other. ALWAYS remove power from wire BEFORE Testing.
You can also use that method to test for short-to-Ground, INSTEAD of wasting fuses.

Please try that & let us know what you find, or if any questions.
George

So i removed fuse F03 and disconnect X6035, i then disconnected X60571 and tested it with a DMM and it read “1” i tested X6035 and all tested “1” besides pin 4. When i pulled the connector for X6035 it had a lot of oil and coolant in there so i tried the best i could to clean it up but still nothing.

[mainbearing]

Did you try reconnecting the water pump connector, then test for continuity with the red probe at X8683 and black probe at a good chassis ground.

Could it be a bad water pump with an internal short?

Originally Posted by e92Kim

So i removed fuse F03 and disconnect X6035, i then disconnected X60571 and tested it with a DMM and it read “1” i tested X6035 and all tested “1” besides pin 4. When i pulled the connector for X6035 it had a lot of oil and coolant in there so i tried the best i could to clean it up but still nothing.

[e92Kim]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Did you try reconnecting the water pump connector, then test for continuity with the red probe at X6035 and black probe at a good chassis ground.

Yes it tested “1” aswell

[mainbearing]

[correction: I meant X8683 above, not X6035, as X6035 needs to be connected to the pump while the fuse is out]

Backtracking a bit -- with the pump disconnected, if you have measured open circuit ("1") on the Red wire, with the fuse still removed, plug the water pump connector back.

Then with the black probe to chassis ground, put the red probe at pin 2 of the 50A Fuse (X8683 end of the socket). Is there connectivity to chassis ground from the fuse now? (which earlier caused a fuse to blow just plugging it in).

If there is connectivity to ground now, remove the water pump connector again and do the same measurement (fuse pin 2 to chassis ground).

If now you measure open circuit ("1") then I suspect the water pump is bad with an internal short.

If so then test Pin 3 on the water pump to ground.

[Grease23]

So maybe you had a blown fuse to the water pump back when the prior pump wasn't working?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by e92Kim

So i removed fuse F03 and disconnect X6035, i then disconnected X60571 and tested it with a DMM and it read “1” i tested X6035 and all tested “1” besides pin 4. When i pulled the connector for X6035 it had a lot of oil and coolant in there so i tried the best i could to clean it up but still nothing.

BTW, if YOU do NOT understand WHY, or HOW, to perform any TEST previously suggested, OR suggested below, please ask questions.

"1" reading when testing for Continuity to Ground indicates NO Short. The Fuse 03 is blowing because there is either a Short-To-Ground in (a) the wire between F03 & X60571, OR (b) the wire between X60571 & X6035 at the Pump. Of course there can ALSO be a "Short-to-Ground" at X60571 itself. ANY contact of metal wire or connector pin/socket to Chassis Ground gives "Short-to-Ground".

When you separate the Connector, there are TWO wires: ONE goes back to the fuse F03, and the OTHER goes to the Pump Connector X6035. You need to TEST EACH for Continuity to Ground.

If you STILL Get "1", or Open Circuit in relation to Chassis Ground on BOTH wires, Either Side of X60571, then ONLY thing left is to reconnect X60571 and conduct the following TESTS, beginning with X6035 at pump STILL disconnected:

1) Examine the sockets for fuse F03. There are TWO sockets, one for EACH spade of the fuse. Use the Multimeter, set to 20V DC, to determine WHICH socket has 12V+ from the Battery, with Red Meter Probe on metal fuse socket, & Black Probe contacting Chassis Ground. Mark the OTHER Socket as the one to conduct the following tests.

2) Return your Meter Settings to 2K Ohms Resistance. Test Meter by contacting probes together, ensuring that results in meter reading of 0.0 Ohms. Put Red Meter Probe on fuse socket that had NO Voltage, and Black Meter Probe on Chassis Ground. If you have nearly ZERO Ohms reading, you have a short that will blow Fuse F03 if you install it. REPORT your finding.

3) If you have "1" or Open Circuit (NO Short) reading, Reconnect X6035 to Pump, and then REPEAT test (2) above. Record & Report your Ohms Reading.
Please let us know what you find, & ask ANY questions.
George

[e92Kim]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

BTW, if YOU do NOT understand WHY, or HOW, to perform any TEST previously suggested, OR suggested below, please ask questions.

"1" reading when testing for Continuity to Ground indicates NO Short. The Fuse 03 is blowing because there is either a Short-To-Ground in (a) the wire between F03 & X60571, OR (b) the wire between X60571 & X6035 at the Pump. Of course there can ALSO be a "Short-to-Ground" at X60571 itself. ANY contact of metal wire or connector pin/socket to Chassis Ground gives "Short-to-Ground".

When you separate the Connector, there are TWO wires: ONE goes back to the fuse F03, and the OTHER goes to the Pump Connector X6035. You need to TEST EACH for Continuity to Ground.

If you STILL Get "1", or Open Circuit in relation to Chassis Ground on BOTH wires, Either Side of X60571, then ONLY thing left is to reconnect X60571 and conduct the following TESTS, beginning with X6035 at pump STILL disconnected:

1) Examine the sockets for fuse F03. There are TWO sockets, one for EACH spade of the fuse. Use the Multimeter, set to 20V DC, to determine WHICH socket has 12V+ from the Battery, with Red Meter Probe on metal fuse socket, & Black Probe contacting Chassis Ground. Mark the OTHER Socket as the one to conduct the following tests.

2) Return your Meter Settings to 2K Ohms Resistance. Test Meter by contacting probes together, ensuring that results in meter reading of 0.0 Ohms. Put Red Meter Probe on fuse socket that had NO Voltage, and Black Meter Probe on Chassis Ground. If you have nearly ZERO Ohms reading, you have a short that will blow Fuse F03 [...]

I tested F03 without X6035 and it tested “1” and when i plugged it back in it was at “0” ohms.