[///Wald]

Just wanted to chime in since I installed this today.

It's a device called ScanGauge and it shows the water temp, rpm's, hp, voltage. There are more combinations, but that's what I have it set up as.

The temperature definitely changes because of the electric water pump that we have. The temperature ranges from 195*F to 220*F.

I tested it on my buddies 04 G35 and his temperature was pretty consistent at 170*.

I decided that I would rather invest in this device and then pull the car over if I see the temperature rising rather then replace the water pump at 79k when failure could occur anytime even with a new water pump.

[NaTuReB0Y]

changed my thermostat and water pump a couple of weeks ago....71k+ miles..

overheating issues........

no more problems.....

[averigualotu]

Does the pump just fails at once? Does it relate to the ac unit? I'm having issues with the ac not working properly at low speeds and/or traffic lights, the other day temp light came on yellow and turned red as I was getting on the ramp to the expressway. Once I got some speed light went out and ac started to work normally.

[AlanAZ]

Does the pump just fails at once? Does it relate to the ac unit? I'm having issues with the ac not working properly at low speeds and/or traffic lights, the other day temp light came on yellow and turned red as I was getting on the ramp to the expressway. Once I got some speed light went out and ac started to work normally.

Could be the electric fan behind the radiator is not operating correctly, and once you have the car up to speed to enough airflow through the radiator, both the A/C and cooling is operating (without the fan.) I'd check that the fan is running at significant speed (it's variable speed) when stopped with the A/C running. I can hear the fan spool up when I'm stopped and switch on the A/C.

[5erman]

To clarify the N54 has an electric waterpump with 2 times the wattage of ours and twice the ability to flow but indeed are both electric.

In my opinion it is one part I will wait to fail as once you start letting a bmw mechanic mess around in taking a perfectly good part off that has been goin strong you add in the error of his mistakes and crappy work, defective part, loose connections etc that you otherwise wouldnt have had. You cannot beat a factory installed part in an engine and if you are running with no problems I would leave it. There is a way to check engine temp through computer by using the tachometer reset button---youll have to google as I only know it for the e60.

The only prevenative stuff I would change other than coolant flushes every 30k are hoses if something else goes. My radiator went out of warranty and they were nice enough to change the two big radiator hoses. If my pump goes I would change all the hoses in that area. I use gummiphledge on the hoses but those tend to wear over time due to the extreme heat

[RazRokz.!]

Originally Posted by shragon

i have a '06 325i. it's a daily driver with 65k miles. my water pump failed last week. basically, my car over heated and i had to have it towed to my mechanic.

my mechanic took out the water pump and tested it with an external power source. the water pump would not start up.

after owning an e34, that was notorious for water pump issues like the e36 (same m50 motor), i was hoping bmw would've made a more reliable cooling system by now.

all i can say is that it really sucks being stranded on the road and waiting for a tow truck. and there was no warning the water pump was going to fail.

Old thread, I know but im trying to figure out whats going on with my car. I was driving and it overheated. But no cel. Did you get a cel when your pump went out?

[monaco330]

Originally Posted by RazRokz.!

Old thread, I know but im trying to figure out whats going on with my car. I was driving and it overheated. But no cel. Did you get a cel when your pump went out?

I'm in the same boat I'm thinking water pump or thermostat.

[DUI Elite]

Originally Posted by RazRokz.!

Old thread, I know but im trying to figure out whats going on with my car. I was driving and it overheated. But no cel. Did you get a cel when your pump went out?

Originally Posted by monaco330

I'm in the same boat I'm thinking water pump or thermostat.

Use the hidden onboard menu to keep tabs on your temperature. No expensive wire tapping necessary.

Start with Key fob out
1) hold trip reset button
2) Insert key fob
3) add up the numbers shown
4) go to 19.X
5) Type the number you summed in step 3 using the trip reset button
6) go to 7.1 for water temperature

This is the method I use when i track my car to make sure I'm not beating it up too harshly.

Normal operating range is between 70 Celsius and about 110 Celsius

[froggy47]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

I would not replace a water pump until it fails for several reasons. One is that I have replaced a failed water pump with a brand new one and had that pump fail shortly afterwards. You could end up replacing a perfectly good part with one that is less reliable. Water pumps are not a maintaince item any more that a radiator, cylinder head, power steering pump etc, all of those components can fail but you normally would not replace them until they failed.

I agree, back in the olden days a failed water pump was more of a disaster than now with reduced power, limp home, codes giving you early warning.

I do replace other parts if I'm in doing something related like a water pump and stat & housing or pads and a brake flush or radiator and hoses.

[SillyGoose]

I have an extended CPO out to 6 years. I brought my car w/ the JB4 still installed on map 0 b/c I had water temperature sensor errors. The dealer found the JB4. The dealer is now trying to deny all coverage b/c of the JB4. Is the dealer still obligated to replace a water temp sensor under CPO? What about a water pump? They mentioned something about throttle valve errors (which I doubt is a problem). I am more inclined to accept responsibility for problems w/ the throttle valve, but does anyone know which things exactly will not be covered anymore?

The service guy was being real douchey. The dealership somehow caused all kinds of addtional DME problems after I dropped it off but tried to pretend I caused the problems in the 1 min that I tried to pick up the car but found the car undriveable due to the additional DME problems they caused. He even told me that they recorded the mileage on the day I first dropped it off and then now, and so could see that no mileage was added.

Then he argued that my warranty ran out at 4yrs/50K miles, even though I got it extended to 6yr/100K as part of negotiating the terms when I bought it.

Then he fell back on saying that they could fix all this stuff in the car, but they'd have to charge me for it.

So I'm going into the dealer soon to pull out the JB4, something which was not a problem when I dropped the car off. But after that, I feel like they should replace the stuff that can't possibly be worsened by having the JB4, such as the water pump related issues. Right?