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Door Locks - Anyone had / have this problem?
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07-30-2008, 12:05 PM | #1 |
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Door Locks - Anyone had / have this problem?
Anyone have this problem?
Last week my doors didn't open with the key fob. They lock, but won't unlock. Same with the comfort access features. They lock, but not unlock. When I press the button, the lights flash 2 x like they are unlocking, I also hear a 'click' in the dash, but the doors dont' unlock. I took it to the dealer, they replaced a fuse, then it worked. However, today I have the same problem. I can lock the doors, but not unlock them with anything but the actual key. Fobs - don't work Button on dash - doesn't work Any ideas? I'm afraid it sounds like a freak electrical issue / short which is causing the blown fuse. |
07-30-2008, 12:10 PM | #2 |
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I had this problem, my fob would lock the doors. But not unlock nor would the button on the dash or pulling the handle inside. You could only unlock drivers door and that was done by using the key. Took it to the dealer and took them almost a week to fix had to replace all the locking actuators and reprogram the computer something went crazy somehow. Take it to the dealer is all i know to do
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07-30-2008, 12:17 PM | #3 | |
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07-30-2008, 12:58 PM | #4 |
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^^+1 its been a known problem... i've had to happen to my car as well, dealer has to change out the actuators
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07-30-2008, 01:58 PM | #5 |
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yep, same happened to me. Actuator was defective, at first they changed the fuse - but after testing it, it kept blowing so they changed the actuator. They only changed driver side actuator (main actuator? dunno...)
Kind of annoying problem, thankfully no one sitting in the back or they would've had to get out through the window.. or sunroof lol... |
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07-30-2008, 02:12 PM | #6 |
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yea i had this problem too, just take it to the dealer.. its under warranty
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07-30-2008, 08:52 PM | #7 |
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just dropped off my car for this problem today.
: There's like 50 threads about it |
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07-30-2008, 08:56 PM | #8 |
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11-06-2008, 03:33 PM | #9 |
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central locking
hi
i had the same problem. i got lots of stories ... it was my general module which needed replaced and my door actulaters were gone and all my door needed stripped back and checked. my doors would lock but when i went to unlock them the lights flashed and it clicked but nothing opened, lucky i only use my car so i managed to open the drivers door manually with the key but the rest would still stay locked. but then i found this link http://www.bmwgm5.com/ this is a tricky job and but it saved me alot of money and it has worked. the relays took a nightmare coming out ( a total of about 2 hours) but very easy to put back in place. hope this helps naz |
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01-16-2009, 03:57 PM | #10 |
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here's my history with them doors -
1st - 5/21/07 (22 months of ownership), 26,483 miles, Santa Monica BMW, fuse replaced 2nd - 7/11/07, 28,722 miles, Encinitas BMW, Junction Box replaced 3rd - 2/??/08, ?? miles, Shelly BMW, actuator was spiking more than 15A and was replaced in the driver side door 4th - 1/15/09, 51,580 miles, Encinitas BMW, all 4 door actuators were spiking more than 15A, and all 4 replaced. Initially, Encinitas wanted to charge me $130 for the diagnosis of this problem, I told them they are one of 3 dealers who looked at it and didn't properly address the problem during warranty. Eventually, they waived the diagnosis fee and fixed it for free (very unwillingly). Then I called BMW North America, they said there's nothing they can do other than contact the dealer. Both Encinitas' service rep and BMW NA phone rep gave me the same BS about how it's a very complex system and more than 1 thing could break. I am an electrical engineer and computer scientist by trade, and worked on satellites and UAVs, so I know a thing or two about electrical problems, design for longevity, and latent issues. So the example I gave the BMW-NA phone rep was this - If someone has HIV/AIDS and gets the plague as the result of it, he can be diagnosed for the plague, can have his plague symptom treated, but that doesn't mean it's the correct root-cause. Same thing in this case, if there's a problem upstream, which causes stress in all the parts down-stream, which results in latent failures, and the parts downstream gets repairs, it does not resolve my ultimate problem. Of course the service rep, nor phone rep understands this, so they try to repeatedly offer "2 year warranty on all parts REPLACED". I told them "no, you haven't addressed the root of the problem, there can and will be latent failures." Long story short, I'm no better than where I started. Here are my options: 1. Find the southern California regional service rep (which the phone rep is unwilling to give to me, and the dealer service rep did not want to provide the info), and have him extend my warranty or 2. Find a lawyer and exercise Song-Beverly Warranty Rights. First occurrence of the problem was outside of the period stated by California Lemon Law (18k mi or 18 month), but Song-Beverly "applies for the entire period of your warranty." Even though my car is out of warranty right now, the problem was not addressed during warranty period. I have contacted a lawyer, he thinks I have a case. |
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01-25-2009, 10:17 PM | #12 |
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Doors locking problem
I have the same issue going on. Im out of warranty!
How much do you guys think the dealer would charge to fix this problem? I replaced the fuse but it keeps blowing after a few days! Need some advise! |
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01-26-2009, 03:27 AM | #13 |
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Something similar happend to NLAKIND were his doors wouldn't even open. It ended up being some burnt out fuses behind the glove box. VERY SIMPLE FIX.
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08-24-2009, 06:32 PM | #14 |
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add me to the list. 2006 330i without comfort access.
first it was a blown fuse. then everything was fine. now the drivers lock doesn't work. have to use key or double-pull from the inside. it does vibrate up/down for a second after you hit the button. so it is getting the pulse. just not enough umph or a bad contact... somewhere... Gen Module? I CAN'T BELIEVE THEY SCREWED THIS UP *AGAIN*!! oh, and went to the dealer today. found out the first owner had work done to a front door lock also. there's that latency... they are not getting to the root cause. THIS IS BS BMW!!! |
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09-07-2009, 01:01 PM | #15 |
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Had same problem with mine and bmw advised unofficially to replace the fuse no.57 i think from a 15amp to a 20amp to cure the problem. Apparently it's a common fault as some actuators draw slightly more current than others resulting eventually in fuse failure. If problem persists then new door actuators will be necessary.
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10-12-2009, 02:23 AM | #17 |
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my Father is having this same problem....although the vehicle is out of warranty by two months...
anybody reckon there is a way to blag this as it is obviously a common fault? |
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10-12-2009, 10:16 AM | #18 |
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I had the same problem and they replaced both the front and one rear actuator if I remember right.
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10-23-2009, 03:59 PM | #19 |
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I also have this problem... let see if changing fuse 15A to 20A solve my case.
Anyone has price estimate about actuator change? Over 1000USD ? If somebody has same problem and fix in European area, it woulld be also nice to know.
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10-23-2009, 04:40 PM | #20 | |
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10-23-2009, 04:42 PM | #21 | |
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10-27-2009, 10:52 AM | #22 |
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