[marketmaster]

Was hoping this would solve my 30FF code but unfortunately not. Will have to say, it was a rather PITA replacing some of the lines. Especially the front turbo.

[montru]

Hello guys,

I do not want to open another thread ..

My 2007 335i with these mods: Turbo Dynamics stage 1, supersprint total race, airbox gruppe M, Stett Chargepipe with BOV's BMS oil valve, Setrab Oil cooler, intercooler ETS

I have a problem underboost (30FF).

I changed ALL the vacuum line and pierburg .. Check intercooler .. but I could not solve .. no noise WG.

Basically arrival at the correct pressure (18-19PSI) but sometimes falls to half and BLIN the ECU goes into recovery ..

To my mechanical fault of the wastegate, but I have not read any topic of someone who has had similar problems ..

How about you?

Thank you all

[cherrypopper135i]

I have this code popping up. Thanks for the advice I will try this Friday when I get home from school will ill post up results.

[gallian93]

OP 06-18-2011
For a post that is this old.... i can't believe that it completely saved my behind!!!!
I just picked up a 335 xi as a winter beater a couple of weeks ago and I got the half engine reduced power... and took it my mechanic, he used to work for the dealer, then VAC in philly and now at an indy shop... He said it was a boost leak and no biggie, he smoke test it and be done quick... NOT.... Tested and could not fine a "real leak"... he swapped the O rings on the inter cooler because he said they were seeping and still no luck... Then i got the dreaded call saying "the waste gates aren't sealing and after calling around (other techs) to confirm...I think your turbos are shot!!!!!"
FIDDLE STICKS... my car is 6 weeks past from the 8 year warranty on the turbos but under by 8K miles...So i call my SA at the dealer and he says to bring it in and we can talk...
now i am depressed and pissed... so yesterday at "work" all i did was search...and came across your thread OP...
On the way home i picked up some vacuum lines got home and totally ignored my kid and wife and went to work!!!
With in 5 min found the lower one was cracked and not connected and just came off... I just replaced the one and wow!!! back to normal!!!
I should my mechanic (also my neighbor) and he said in all his time working on N54 (which per him is ALOT) he had never heard/seen that... So you schooled both of us...So thanks again...
I figured i'd bump this thread because it turned my potential $6000 dollar (not sure what the cost of replacing the turbos is, just guesstimating) into a $2.99 fix!!!!

Originally Posted by mattsfeir

Here's a quick vacuum line fix that solved a lot of problems for me. My car's boost kept getting lower and lower, ultimately ended up around 3psi when it should have been 13.5psi. I made a boost leak tester which showed me one boost leak, but even when that was fixed, the boost level didn't change. I was getting the 30FF error code under full throttle and the wastegates really started rattling, sounded like diesel clatter.

Robert at Vishnu spent some time on the phone diagnosing the issue and said I should check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones right by the oil filter (red arrow in pic below). He also mentioned that right after shutting the car off, immediately disconnect the vacuum connector (blue arrow in pick below) and I should hear a whoosh of air being sucked in due to the vacuum. They had this same issue with a beta tester's car.

One of my vacuum lines had split right behind the oil filter, found the leak by disconnecting the vacuum connector and blowing air into it with my mouth. While that may sound weird, it was very easy to find the leak. Replaced both of the original vacuum lines with the 5/32 line from Pep Boys and all was fixed. There was vacuum when I shut the car off and boost is now back to normal.

My car is an 07 with 54k miles, as more of these cars get older and the heat from the oil filter takes it toll on the rubber lines, I'd guess more people will have this issue.

I had an appt scheduled with the dealer the next day to diagnose this, not sure what they would have charged, but I'd guess $100-$200 and the line cost $5 at Pep Boys. Great service from Vishnu giving me tips on fixing a hardware issue, Procede had nothing to do with this.

Edit: Probably best to cut the old vacuum lines off as they may be brittle and stuck to the plastic connectors. I used a utility knife to slice the ends of the old vacuum lines open (parallel to the line), then they're easy to peel off the plastic connectors. Also note that you could have a vacuum leak somewhere else besides this spot, this just appears to be a common spot.

[wildacex187]

so this thread helped me find my no boost situation. thank you OP and why isn't this stickied yet? this should be recommended as regular maintenance on n54's with more than 50k miles

[jimmy.tandel93]

LIFE SAVERS!!!! ima go burn one for y'all

[kmx]

Originally Posted by cherrypopper135i

I have this code popping up. Thanks for the advice I will try this Friday when I get home from school will ill post up results.

how did you go mate?

[kmx]

Thank you very much. Checked first hose and found this.

Pretty tight getting down to it but it just fell off.

Will check others.

[kmx]

Originally Posted by mattsfeir

The foil may work, never thought of that.

This past weekend, I replaced all the vacuum lines on the passenger side with Turbosmart silicone lines. Not sure if the factory lines are rubber or silicone, but would guess the windshield washer lines were rubber, so these silicone lines should hold up better.

There's 10' in the package and that's enough to do the passenger side, but not enough to do the driver side (lines to diverter valves, etc.), so another package is on it's way.

I went with black, but they're also available in blue or red. Have a new razor blade handy to slice the old lines off the plastic fittings. The lines to the wastegates are difficult to see, but those are metal, so I just pulled those off and felt my way around to get the new ones on.

Hopefully this will also help with this issue (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612204), still have to see if the new lines affected that.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TBS-TS-HV0403-BK/

Here's a pic of all the old lines:

hi, i note the hoses you bought are 4mm, not 3.5mm as pointed out by another user, are these working ok for you. I have the issue where i can't track down 3.5mm hoses anywhere locally and wondering will 4mm internal do that trick. cheers

[riczon.335i]

I did most of my lines with Verocious Motorsport silicone, would I run into issues replacing the entire area that you mentioned behind the OF? Or should I put the original hard line back? Thanks.

Originally Posted by Bavarian Black

They are not supposed to be full silicon at the part behind the OF...

[Willortiz]

I think im having an issue with my lines i get the same error code. When i do unplug the plastic tube in frint of the air box i do hear a whooshing sound. May i still have a leak or are my wastegates shot? (I do have slight rattle)

[wildacex187]

Originally Posted by Willortiz

I think im having an issue with my lines i get the same error code. When i do unplug the plastic tube in frint of the air box i do hear a whooshing sound. May i still have a leak or are my wastegates shot? (I do have slight rattle)

you might not have to if you're hearing vac on that line. i say you should just replace them anyway since its cheap and will make the car run better.

[blknighte92]

Originally Posted by Willortiz

I think im having an issue with my lines i get the same error code. When i do unplug the plastic tube in frint of the air box i do hear a whooshing sound. May i still have a leak or are my wastegates shot? (I do have slight rattle)

i did the same and hear a whoosh sound, but idk if thats because i check it 2 seconds after turning off the car and maybe theres enough air in the system that it can make that sound. will check in the morning to see if it still makes that sound if theres a small leak.

Also i did try blowing into the connector port to the left lines that go behind the oil filter and to the boost solenoids and at first there is pressure, but after i hold it, it starts to drop. is this due to the air pushing through the rest of the lines that is starts to drop or should it hold steady to where i couldn't blow more air if i wanted to?

TIA

[blknighte92]

Can someone tell me how long the vacuum is supposed to hold for? If i pull the clip at the blue arrow immediately after turning off the engine, there is a vacuum whoosh. BUT if i let it sit overnight, when i unclip it at the blue arrow there is no sound at all. pleas lmk if this is normal or if I do have a vacuum leak. thanks

[dhahlen]

Woo! I have boost again!! Thanks a ton, OP! Was doing all sorts of other crap, but blowing into the vacuum tube made it obvious and I was able to track it down. Mine was hiding right behind the oil filter housing, close to where the intake manifold bolts up.

Replaced both with some new 5/32" line and all is well!

[2fast4]

Hey guys,

I periodically get 30FF under boost issue. Tuned with OFT.
It occurs more if I've been driving over 1 hour. The longer I drive, the more drop in boost like 4-5psi less. And slower to build boost.

I want to track down vacuum reading low. 17" HG at idle.
(Replaced all the lines and tested for leaks).

I got 2 vacuum gauges T'd - 1 going to solenoids line. 1 going to 1 of 2 lines coming from brake booster line before the canister.
So both gauges are reading 17" HG. I hear that it should be 26" HG.

I ruled out the solenoid since booster line is reading the same.
I think I need to focus on vacuum pump area. I'm hoping vacuum pump is OK. Anyone had similar problem and the fix?

[CLRBLND]

I broke the top nipple on the vacuum hose -_-

[heroyo]

Does anyone know what the part number is for the connector pointed by the blue arrow, I broke one side of the locking circular clip while pinching and disconnecting it, and does anyone know whether that will cause a leak in the system? Thanks.

[dakotaram]

Bringing to life a dormant thread.
I the replaced the crumbled hoses behind the filter. I still have Limp Mode and CEL on.
So I removed the connector, heard the whoosh.
Blew into the connector, air flowed through the hoses.

I'm confused by the OP and can't figure out if this is a good thing or a bad thing??

I went ahead and purchased new silicone hoses to replace all lines just in case.

[CanadianTSi]

Air should flow through. You don't want it leaking out.

[dakotaram]

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

Air should flow through. You don't want it leaking out.

Flowing through and leaking out, how would I know which it is doing if I'm simply using my breath? If the air whooshed out, then it's not longer under pressure, correct? And if I'm blowing air into the lines, is that because of the empty space after the release, or because of a leak? See how I'm confused, LOL?

Thanks for the reply....

[CanadianTSi]

The whoosh you hear is air rushing into the lines because the system operates under a vacuum. Blowing into them really isn't going to do much. Best advice is to just replace them all.