[Chris_506]

This question may be a little rhetorical as i am pretty confident my clutch is on its way out but i would like a second opinion.

Last night while going at it with a subby my CEL light came on for a few minutes, shortly after the light went away we went at it again from a dig but when i dumped the clutch my car was just revving in place so no moving whatsoever and i could smell that burnt clutch smell. However after i tried driving it normal again and its shifting without problems now, but the clutch still feels way too soft(like really worn) i have been driving the car since last night and it shifts OK as long as im not pushing it but as soon as i try to take off quick i can smell the clutch smell a little again.


Would this definitely be the clutch or is there something else i can look for? also when replacing it do i need to look at replacing anything else while im in there since my car has higher mileage?(110k). Not sure if the CEL light is related at all but it hasn't come back.

thanks in advance.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Yea that is definetely the clutch. With the abuse it has taken already it's only a matter of time before you are left stranded. I would look into purchasing a clutch today, (not trying to run a sale pitch on you). You likely burnt up your flywheel too so you will need a new one of those.

Please do your best to avoid slipping the clutch and burning it anymore if you want it to last a little longer.

My guess is the clutch slipped so bad there was no load on the engine and you probably under-boosted target, no big deal.

[Chris_506]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Yea that is definetely the clutch. With the abuse it has taken already it's only a matter of time before you are left stranded. I would look into purchasing a clutch today, (not trying to run a sale pitch on you). You likely burnt up your flywheel too so you will need a new one of those.

Please do your best to avoid slipping the clutch and burning it anymore if you want it to last a little longer.

My guess is the clutch slipped so bad there was no load on the engine and you probably under-boosted target, no big deal.

i mean the clutch is no big deal and i will likely buy something today, but you really think the fly wheel is done so? i thought those things were suppose to last a while and whatnot.

i figured that with a modded car the faster wear on the clutch is eminent, but for the flywheel to go out too? is there anyway to tell before taking the whole thing apart?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by SCSRe92

i mean the clutch is no big deal and i will likely buy something today, but you really think the fly wheel is done so? i thought those things were suppose to last a while and whatnot.

i figured that with a modded car the faster wear on the clutch is eminent, but for the flywheel to go out too? is there anyway to tell before taking the whole thing apart?

It would normally last a while, but you burned your clutch several times. That can easily produce hot spots on your flywheel and leave clutch material on the flywheel. This makes the surface un-even and prone to slipping with a new clutch.

Without seeing your car in person and taking it apart nobody really knows. However, it's always recommended to replace your OEM flywheel when you get a new clutch anyway.

Some people resurface them but I never recommend it as there are too many horror stories of people going to shops that end up screwing it up. This is not your typical flywheel on a Honda or Subaru, it is a Dual mass flywheel, so it requires specialized shop to resurface it properly.

If done improperly it will ruin your new clutch.

[Chris_506]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

It would normally last a while, but you burned your clutch several times. That can easily produce hot spots on your flywheel and leave clutch material on the flywheel. This makes the surface un-even and prone to slipping with a new clutch.

Without seeing your car in person and taking it apart nobody really knows. However, it's always recommended to replace your OEM flywheel when you get a new clutch anyway.

Some people resurface them but I never recommend it as there are too many horror stories of people going to shops that end up screwing it up. This is not your typical flywheel on a Honda or Subaru, it is a Dual mass flywheel, so it requires specialized shop to resurface it properly.

If done improperly it will ruin your new clutch.

oh man how much does a fly wheel run and can i run an aftermarket fly wheel with a oem clutch? any recommendations?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by SCSRe92

oh man how much does a fly wheel run and can i run an aftermarket fly wheel with a oem clutch? any recommendations?

I think retail on the OEM DMFW is near $1000 but people find them cheaper.

The only aftermarket options are single mass aluminum or steel flywheels. They will be cheaper, mid $500's. However, they come with a price.

The single mass flywheels on this car cause excessive chatter and noise. They also require the use of specific clutches so it limits your options on inexpensive clutches, like ACT for instance.

I'm not sure what kind of power you have but clutches are rated by torque, so you should choose a clutch based on torque.

ACT, and SPEC clutches appear to be the most popular.

If you are running just basic bolts on the ACT is good clutch to go with or the Spec Stage 2.

If you are running E85 or methanol I would go with atleast Spec 2 if not spec 2+

If you are is otherwise stock Spec Stage 1 or ACT would suffice.

[Chris_506]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

I think retail on the OEM DMFW is near $1000 but people find them cheaper.

The only aftermarket options are single mass aluminum or steel flywheels. They will be cheaper, mid $500's. However, they come with a price.

The single mass flywheels on this car cause excessive chatter and noise. They also require the use of specific clutches so it limits your options on inexpensive clutches, like ACT for instance.

I'm not sure what kind of power you have but clutches are rated by torque, so you should choose a clutch based on torque.

ACT, and SPEC clutches appear to be the most popular.

If you are running just basic bolts on the ACT is good clutch to go with or the Spec Stage 2.

If you are running E85 or methanol I would go with atleast Spec 2 if not spec 2+

If you are is otherwise stock Spec Stage 1 or ACT would suffice.

Iam currently only running dci and a jb4 on map5 ill probably add downpipes and maybe an intercooler and call it a day but i found someone selling an oem bmw clutch kit for $300 which seems like a good deal that's why i asked

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by SCSRe92

Iam currently only running dci and a jb4 on map5 ill probably add downpipes and maybe an intercooler and call it a day but i found someone selling an oem bmw clutch kit for $300 which seems like a good deal that's why i asked

I would not use another OEM clutch personally, especially if you are going to be adding more power. However, that is entirely up to you as it is your vehicle. If I was about to tear down and do all the labor for a clutch I would want one that can support the power I have or the power I will have.

[Chris_506]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

I would not use another OEM clutch personally, especially if you are going to be adding more power. However, that is entirely up to you as it is your vehicle. If I was about to tear down and do all the labor for a clutch I would want one that can support the power I have or the power I will have.

if this was after tax time, without a doubt. but right now im budgeted..plus i dont mind doing the work. In most my other cars it has been a half a day job. So ill probably go oem for now and by tax time next year ill really go all out. But thank you so much for your input and helpful advice.