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DIY : 5DF0 / 5DF1 ABS quick free fix !
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11-10-2017, 12:52 PM | #1 |
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DIY : 5DF0 / 5DF1 ABS quick free fix !
If you have found this thread because you are having problems ( ABS + DTC + Cruise) and try the ideas below, can you give a quick update
What did you try ( Pump? Tyres? Both ?) The result ( Good, Bad, or unexpected?) An update after a while so we know how long this fix works for (days? weeks? permanant?) You will need to drive for a few hundred yards before the warnings clear, advise you try 1 fix - drive around the block - it you still have a problem try the other fix and go drive... The codes I was seeing are very common failures : 005DF0 - pump motor faulty. 005DF1 - pump motor connector damaged. I tried 2 quick fixes and one of them has cured my codes & warning lights : Let all the tyres down to 20psi, and re-inflate Gently tap the ABS pump motor (red square in the photo) using a screwdriver or hammer handle etc, to give it a sharp short shock I now know the ABS, DTC, and Cruise Control all depend on the ABS pump, if the pump is faulty you will loose all 3 systems The good news is that they all start to work once the ABS pump is fixed, no need for you to reset anything Many thanks for the various threads that got me to this point, and for the other helpful info I've found on this forum, in no particular order : davemk on another forum for the tip about tyre pressures Known problems that can cause these error codes : ** Mismatched tyre pressures 1) Steering Angle sensor / calibration (not just choke to choke) Perform steering angle sensor adjustment/calibration per Repair Instructions RA 61 31 996? 2) Wheel Speed Sensor (and / or wiring & connections) 3) Battery - low voltage - bad battery 4) Wheel Bearing 5) Fault in wiring 6) ABS / DSC Hydraulic pump 7) Alternator - fluctuating current 8) Wheel Alignment http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=934971 There are a few options to fix an ABS pump fault : * hit it with a hammer (my preferred option ) * strip & rebuild the pump motor * swap the pump valve body (& motor) for know good - keep your orignal control unit so you don't need to recode anything. * send your unit to be reconditioned (no coding) or fit a new / recon unit (will need coding to the car) Info for ABS pump motor fix (page 2) & valve body swap (page 4) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=abs&page=2
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11-10-2017, 12:57 PM | #2 |
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Pics didn't attach for some reason
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Last edited by UK_Nomad; 11-10-2017 at 01:10 PM.. |
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04-24-2018, 10:39 AM | #3 | |
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Did you leave engine running and did you hit the ali bit or the black plastic bit? And how long did you have codes for??? Many Thanks |
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05-20-2018, 07:01 AM | #4 |
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Hi,
Tap near the end of the black can (at the opposite end to the pipework), not the alloy casting. - turn off the engine before doing anything. - use a rubber handled tool (hammer handle?) so you don't damage the pump paintwork - light will come on when you start the engine, you need to drive several yards before the light will go out. - codes were here for a couple of weeks but they went away after the fix.
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10-22-2018, 02:56 PM | #5 |
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OP I'm curious as to how long the "tap the pump motor" method has continued to keep the codes from coming back.
My car currently has them coming and going. I have a tool to read codes and data streams, and I see wheel sensors and steering sensors that seem to be doing what they were meant to do. I do have suspicions about the battery though and may try replacing it before going postal on my pump motor. |
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02-23-2019, 10:48 AM | #6 | |
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02-23-2019, 04:25 PM | #7 |
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I think that poster might be long gone. I had no luck with the 'tap' on either of the 2 cars exhibiting the issue. One's in the shop getting a used unit right now, and the other will soon suffer my hand as I remove the unit and send it out for rebuild.
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02-25-2019, 08:13 PM | #8 |
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Oops - didn't notice the earlier questions.
The fault is still here, tapping the pump clears the fault - sometimes it goes away for a couple of months, sometimes it's just a few days. I suspect the easiest long term solution is to swap out the pump body (fit a working used body onto your ABS head unit so you don't need to recode the pump) For info, I ran diagnostics when I first got the fault to confirm the wheel sensors were working ok before I did anything with the pump.
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