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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      10-27-2010, 09:26 AM   #1255
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Originally Posted by bemap30 View Post
Okay here's my situation.

I just bought a new 328i xdrive with black saphire metallic paint. The dealer asked me if i wanted a sealant, he said it would protect it for over a year. I didn't know anything about car detailing before i went on this forum, so i took it. It cost me 300$ for the sealant....obviously i got owned by them. Because not only it didn't last very long, but also i washed the car and i might have rub the a little bit too hard with the towel.
The result, swirl marks and angel hairs marks (which was a little bit of my fault since i never washed my car myself before). I brought it to someone i know who works in a carwash and he said that it was the clear coat that had marks on it.

Now i wanted to know, what should i do? I'm planning to wash my car (dawn or car shampoo?), claying it (because clearly they didn't do it before putting the sealant over, the car feels grindy). Then what? Waxing or polishing then waxing? Or simply wait 'til spring then doing the whole process?
Sorry for the delayed reply on this. You got the process down you'll want to wash (dawn can help strip off what the dealership put on), clay to remove the contamination still on the paint (removing the grittiness feeling), polish (preferably with a buffer to remove the swirls and imperfections, more than 1 step may be required), then protect with a sealant and/or wax.

The sooner you do it the better your car will look and be properly protected. You can certainly wait till spring, the dealership protection should last you a few more months hopefully.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MuttGrunt View Post
^ The problem with over-the-counter waxes is that they're developed for over-the-counter types of people. These waxes can often times have cleaners in them (because most people don't clay their cars) or abrasives in them (because most people don't polish their cars). This is part of the reason they can stain trim, be harder to work with, receive no benefit in attempting to layer, and give "mmmeehh" results.

Higher dollar waxes most often are designed to be used on a well prepped vehicle. Their only goals are gloss and protection. Nothing else. Because they don't have abrasives, you can layer them (to a point), and are usually easier to work with than OTC products.

So please keep in mind that while the price is certainly a huge difference, waxes can certainly have other differences as well. Not all waxes are created equally, or created for the same type of use. I can't say how good many OTC waxes are because I don't use them. Being in Canada, you might want to try using a good sealant for the higher durability and better layering ability anyways with the Winter fast approaching. Sealants like Blackfire, PowerLock, JetSeal109, etc are all proven winners, and with a few layers on your paint - can potentially make it through the coming weather.
No OTC wax/sealant is likely to get you even close because of their formulation.
Couldn't have said it better myself

Thanks!
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      10-28-2010, 12:35 AM   #1256
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So, im new to really detail detailing and am planning on getting a porter cable to really bring out the shine in my car. my car is alpine white and has medium to light swirling and thats about it. my question is what supporting products should i get to bring out the best shine.

polishing pads?
polish?
sealant?
wax?
glaze?

i really have no idea what i need and with all the products out there it gets confusing. basically the question is what do i need to get to make use of my porter cable. id like to keep the price reasonable. thanks hope to hear from some one soon.
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      10-28-2010, 09:51 AM   #1257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wchoy View Post
So, im new to really detail detailing and am planning on getting a porter cable to really bring out the shine in my car. my car is alpine white and has medium to light swirling and thats about it. my question is what supporting products should i get to bring out the best shine.

polishing pads?
polish?
sealant?
wax?
glaze?

i really have no idea what i need and with all the products out there it gets confusing. basically the question is what do i need to get to make use of my porter cable. id like to keep the price reasonable. thanks hope to hear from some one soon.
If you're going to go with a PC, then I'd recommend going with the Meguiar's M105 / M205 polishes, which conveniently come in 8oz sizes which keep costs down. It'll probably only do a couple of details, but enough to get you by for a year or so. Here's a good read on how to properly use the Meguiar's polishes. Pad wise, I'd either go with the Cyan Hydro-Tech Pads for the M105 and follow with the Tangerine Pads for the M205 (I typically use about 3 each per coat). Another common combo is Orange pads with M105 and White pads with M205. I linked you to the 5.5" pads which would work best with the Meguiar's W67DA backing plate.

For a glaze, I'd suggest Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze to use under a sealant. This would be applied after polishing and before sealing.

For a sealant, go with Blackfire Wet Diamond. It's arguably one of the best sealants on the market in terms of ease of use, surface slickness, gloss and depth, durability and protection. Many people won't even top it with a wax it looks so good, but if you want to use a wax on top then I'd say something like Pete's '53 or Blackfire Midnight Sun would be good for white color.

I'd recommend claying the car after washing and prior to polishing for optimal results. If you need a clay combo, here's a good one.

Let me know if you need a hand selecting anything else. Be sure to keep us posted on how everything turns out for you.

George
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      10-28-2010, 09:43 PM   #1258
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thanks ill let you know how it turns out. thats basically exactly kinda what i wanted to hear perfect! thanks!
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      10-30-2010, 03:46 PM   #1259
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Originally Posted by wchoy View Post
thanks ill let you know how it turns out. thats basically exactly kinda what i wanted to hear perfect! thanks!
Glad to hear that was helpful... let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with. Looking forward to hearing about your results.
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      10-31-2010, 08:05 AM   #1260
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So I had a question since I will be picking my car up from the dealer probably in 4-6 weeks.

I asked the dealer to just clean the interior and not to wash the exterior. How clean does the car need to be before taking it to a reputable Clear Bra installer? My plan was going to take it to a thorough automatic touchless car wash, get the clear bra installed, then take it to the detailer for new car prep.

The detailer I was going to have finish up the car is http://www.esotericdetail.com
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      11-01-2010, 04:44 AM   #1261
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Originally Posted by Disciple7 View Post
So I had a question since I will be picking my car up from the dealer probably in 4-6 weeks.

I asked the dealer to just clean the interior and not to wash the exterior. How clean does the car need to be before taking it to a reputable Clear Bra installer? My plan was going to take it to a thorough automatic touchless car wash, get the clear bra installed, then take it to the detailer for new car prep.

The detailer I was going to have finish up the car is http://www.esotericdetail.com
I'd flip flop your order, I'd have Todd detail your car first, then get the clear bra installed. This way you can ensure the paint is properly prepped and swirls are removed before applying your clear bra, giving you the best results. That's how I'd go about it personally...
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      11-01-2010, 08:21 AM   #1262
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
I'd flip flop your order, I'd have Todd detail your car first, then get the clear bra installed. This way you can ensure the paint is properly prepped and swirls are removed before applying your clear bra, giving you the best results. That's how I'd go about it personally...
Todd's concern was that the Clearbra guys in the process of prepping the car, removing all the protectants and whatnot from the detailing process when they put on the bra. So I dunno. This is the first time I've bought a car I've cared enough to go to this much trouble.
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      11-02-2010, 10:15 AM   #1263
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Originally Posted by Disciple7 View Post
Todd's concern was that the Clearbra guys in the process of prepping the car, removing all the protectants and whatnot from the detailing process when they put on the bra. So I dunno. This is the first time I've bought a car I've cared enough to go to this much trouble.
This is true, but this is only going to be where they apply the clear bra. They need to prep that area for install by stripping everything off. If you don't have it detailed before the clear bra install, then you may be left with swirls and other imperfections under the clear bra that you won't be able to remove and still see. I guess there's no perfect solution unless you go to one place for the detail and clear bra install... It's really up to you.
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      11-05-2010, 03:17 PM   #1264
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George,

I have a gray 325I as well. I keep it garaged but have been using the run of the mill carwash with a towel I use for drying all my vehicles. I too need a bit more insight on some detailing products that I can use to make my car a bit more "glassy/wet looking". I have a very busy schedule and usually spent the earlier part of my saturday mornings washing my vehicles as I don't trust anyone to care for them as I do.

If you can PM me with a package that I can purchase and use from your site to prep, wash, wax and shine my bimmer in about 2 hours, I would be greatful.

I also have a marron vehicle and another run about grey mazda as my daily driver. I would also like to give them a bit more attention to detail on saturdays that I'm not loving on my bimmer.

Lloyd
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      11-05-2010, 07:13 PM   #1265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydJr View Post
George,

I have a gray 325I as well. I keep it garaged but have been using the run of the mill carwash with a towel I use for drying all my vehicles. I too need a bit more insight on some detailing products that I can use to make my car a bit more "glassy/wet looking". I have a very busy schedule and usually spent the earlier part of my saturday mornings washing my vehicles as I don't trust anyone to care for them as I do.

If you can PM me with a package that I can purchase and use from your site to prep, wash, wax and shine my bimmer in about 2 hours, I would be greatful.

I also have a marron vehicle and another run about grey mazda as my daily driver. I would also like to give them a bit more attention to detail on saturdays that I'm not loving on my bimmer.

Lloyd
Hey Lloyd, thanks for the post. What I'd suggest for you is to go through a wash and dry, apply a glaze, and top it with a sealant or wax. This could be done in a 2 hour time span and will get you the best results by hand in that amount of time. I'll PM you some ideas on products that can work with all of the cars you have.
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      11-07-2010, 02:20 AM   #1266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
If you're going to go with a PC, then I'd recommend going with the Meguiar's M105 / M205 polishes, which conveniently come in 8oz sizes which keep costs down. It'll probably only do a couple of details, but enough to get you by for a year or so. Here's a good read on how to properly use the Meguiar's polishes. Pad wise, I'd either go with the Cyan Hydro-Tech Pads for the M105 and follow with the Tangerine Pads for the M205 (I typically use about 3 each per coat). Another common combo is Orange pads with M105 and White pads with M205. I linked you to the 5.5" pads which would work best with the Meguiar's W67DA backing plate.

For a glaze, I'd suggest Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze to use under a sealant. This would be applied after polishing and before sealing.

For a sealant, go with Blackfire Wet Diamond. It's arguably one of the best sealants on the market in terms of ease of use, surface slickness, gloss and depth, durability and protection. Many people won't even top it with a wax it looks so good, but if you want to use a wax on top then I'd say something like Pete's '53 or Blackfire Midnight Sun would be good for white color.

I'd recommend claying the car after washing and prior to polishing for optimal results. If you need a clay combo, here's a good one.

Let me know if you need a hand selecting anything else. Be sure to keep us posted on how everything turns out for you.

George

What would you switch up on this excellent post for a monaco blue (dark blue) car?

Also how do you compare 3m perfect it II? I asked a local body shop that painted my lip on how to remove the light swirl marks. They said to use my PC and Perfect it II until the haze is gone. Then wax. Could I get your opinion on this as well? Is Perfect it II similar to Meguire's M105?

Also those waxes are quite expensive. Is there a cost effective recommendation that will perform as well?
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      11-07-2010, 09:08 AM   #1267
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Originally Posted by spiike32 View Post
What would you switch up on this excellent post for a monaco blue (dark blue) car?

Also how do you compare 3m perfect it II? I asked a local body shop that painted my lip on how to remove the light swirl marks. They said to use my PC and Perfect it II until the haze is gone. Then wax. Could I get your opinion on this as well? Is Perfect it II similar to Meguire's M105?

Also those waxes are quite expensive. Is there a cost effective recommendation that will perform as well?
You could use the same process and products for Monaco Blue as well. There really aren't products that excel on one color over another with the exception of maybe some LSPs (sealants and waxes).

3M makes some decent polishes, but I don't think PerfectIt II is as aggressive of a compound and chances are it's a diminishing abrasive polish rather than a non-diminishing abrasive polish like Meg's. Having a non-diminishing abrasive polish on a random orbital typically allows for deeper cut since the size of the abrasives aren't breaking down you have to let off the pressure to diminish the cut.

Will the 3M stuff work? Probably, but I cannot directly compare the two and say one will definitively be better than another. So much of the results are because of the technique by the person applying it, polishing is an art and what works for one may not work for someone else. We try to teach and sell proven products and techniques.

As for the waxes, I honestly don't think you'd need one if you finished with Blackfire Wet Diamond. The look is like a carnauba wax and offers a lot of depth and gloss with a very slick surface. A $20 wax may take away from the finish of Wet Diamond, which is why many choose not to top the sealant with a wax. Hope this makes sense.

Let me know if there's anything else I can answer for you or help with.
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      11-14-2010, 10:26 PM   #1268
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Heys guys. Could someone recommend me some good products to remove a small black scuff mark I have on my right front bumper?

Some people told me try 3M Scratch remover.

Thanks.
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      11-15-2010, 12:48 PM   #1269
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Heys guys. Could someone recommend me some good products to remove a small black scuff mark I have on my right front bumper?

Some people told me try 3M Scratch remover.

Thanks.
You could pick up some Meguiar's ScratchX which you can find locally. I'm not familiar with how good the 3M Scratch Remover works. Basically you'll want to work it in with some elbow grease on a foam applicator pad and remove with a microfiber towel.
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      11-15-2010, 02:38 PM   #1270
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You could pick up some Meguiar's ScratchX which you can find locally. I'm not familiar with how good the 3M Scratch Remover works. Basically you'll want to work it in with some elbow grease on a foam applicator pad and remove with a microfiber towel.
Should I clay bar the area first also?
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      11-15-2010, 11:46 PM   #1271
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My exterior window trim is starting to look oxidized/dull (chrome). I was wondering what I would need to bring out the shine in it again?

I didn't know what to get since not knowing if there was a clear coat or some kind of protection on the trim. So I haven't gone to the local auto shop yet.

Thanks
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      11-16-2010, 12:14 PM   #1272
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Should I clay bar the area first also?
Ideally, yes. Claying will ensure there is no contamination on the paint to grind into potentially creating more imperfections if you don't. It's always best to clay prior to any polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by intensee92 View Post
My exterior window trim is starting to look oxidized/dull (chrome). I was wondering what I would need to bring out the shine in it again?

I didn't know what to get since not knowing if there was a clear coat or some kind of protection on the trim. So I haven't gone to the local auto shop yet.

Thanks
I usually turn to a non-abrasive chemical polish to remove oxidation. Something like Klasse All In One is usually what I try first, it does a good job cutting through oxidation and the protection left behind is pretty decent.
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      11-23-2010, 02:10 AM   #1273
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Zaino Products opinion

This is a great thread, I wish I had visited it before I wrote the rather lengthy post in a different thread. That said, some of you may enjoy reading it.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1353

Cheers
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      11-24-2010, 08:47 AM   #1274
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This is a great thread, I wish I had visited it before I wrote the rather lengthy post in a different thread. That said, some of you may enjoy reading it.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1353

Cheers
Good info salbrecht, thanks for taking the time for the informative post. Always nice hearing other peoples experience. We just added Rejex to our line up, I'm excited to give it a shot and see how the grime wipes off.
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      11-25-2010, 05:26 PM   #1275
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Hi there, I am looking to take advantage of your Black friday special and get myself a buffer but I don't have the slightest idea of how to go about picking one.

I am a complete noob and have very little know how on detailing a car so I would really appreciate your input. My car is black and has a lot of swirl marks and also has water spots.

Firstly, which buffer is recommended for complete noobs (so that i don't mess up the paint even more) and what all compounds should be looking to get?

Thanks (i am sure that there might be some posts about this already but it's quite a lengthy process to go through all the pages. So if you could also refer me to another post, that would be great )

edit: some research shows that i should stick with a orbital buffer. What do you think?

Last edited by hieracity; 11-25-2010 at 05:41 PM.. Reason: research
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      11-26-2010, 06:54 AM   #1276
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Good Morning,

My outside mirrors have become stained as a result of water; although not a problem while driving during the day, it is problematic during the night as a result of car's headlights. Is there a way to clean them in order to eliminate the water stains, or is replacing the glass the only option?

Thank you for your help


Tony
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