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      12-07-2016, 12:33 AM   #1
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How about this HP combo

Hello everyone,

I want the car to be quicker and more responsive, but! not too loud . Stock exhaust + PPK is already loud enough to me. So I may not go with catless DP + any louder exhaust. How about a bigger FMIC+ a bigger Oil cooler + MHD shell map?

I`m not sure about high-flow catted DP, will it make the same noise and emission level as original one but make car faster and more responsive?

Do I need a 7 inch FMIC or just 5 inch for this HP combo?

Oil cooler is just for maintaining the car under a good temperature. Car is 2012 N55 335i. Want to hear some advices
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      12-07-2016, 02:53 AM   #2
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7" fmic - same price but better and only requires minimal trimming

catted dp + resonator - power + small increase in sound only

No oil cooler, would only install if driven REALLY hard on the street or tracked

MHD, 100%

Ensure you have an aftermarket charge pipe as well.

An upgraded diverter valve may be useful as the oem diaphragm Can leak under higher loads
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      12-07-2016, 04:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_ View Post
7" fmic - same price but better and only requires minimal trimming

catted dp + resonator - power + small increase in sound only

No oil cooler, would only install if driven REALLY hard on the street or tracked

MHD, 100%

Ensure you have an aftermarket charge pipe as well.

An upgraded diverter valve may be useful as the oem diaphragm Can leak under higher loads
Thanks mate

Seems high-flow catted DP is the way to go, what is resonator?

As for oil cooler, can it lower oil temp from 120C to 110C under normal driving conditions? 120 is not putting engine into limp mode but will accelerate the hardening of rubber parts around engine. I consider OC as a preventative upgrade actually.

The first mod I did on the car is charge pipe

any good diverter valve for N55?
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      12-07-2016, 05:15 AM   #4
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5.5" I/C upgrade is all you'll need.
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      12-07-2016, 07:24 AM   #5
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Does air intake improve engine response as effective as it is advertised?
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      12-07-2016, 07:29 AM   #6
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Oil cooler is needed regardless if driven hard or on the track. Idk where you live but in warm summer days it can cause limp mode. My car and others here experience seeing temps in 260. I've only hit limp mode once but it was enough to make me install an oil cooler next spring when I install my turbo.
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      12-07-2016, 07:39 AM   #7
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Im in Sydney, daytime in summer is really hot. If OC can lower oil temp even when driving normally. I think its still a good stuff to upgrade. Perhaps 100-110 will be better for engine parts than constantly 120. Will OC makes car to warm up slower?
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      12-07-2016, 07:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Y View Post
Im in Sydney, daytime in summer is really hot. If OC can lower oil temp even when driving normally. I think its still a good stuff to upgrade. Perhaps 100-110 will be better for engine parts than constantly 120. Will OC makes car to warm up slower?
Nothing too bad which you'll notice but if you add the bms t stat then it'll take longer to warm up.

Last edited by CantCatchMe; 12-07-2016 at 07:54 AM..
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      12-07-2016, 07:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Y View Post
Im in Sydney, daytime in summer is really hot. If OC can lower oil temp even when driving normally. I think its still a good stuff to upgrade. Perhaps 100-110 will be better for engine parts than constantly 120. Will OC makes car to warm up slower?
Nothing to bad which you'll notice but if you add the bms t stat then it'll take longer to warm up.


yep I agree that bms T stat will prolong the time of reaching working temperature. only with FMIC no bms theromstat, will car get warmed up slower?
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      12-07-2016, 07:55 AM   #10
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No it's practically the same warm up process with or without the oil cooler.
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      12-07-2016, 08:01 AM   #11
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ah i see... oil cooler starts to work only when thermostatus is activated. wont change warm up time. did you notice oil temp under normal driving condition?
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      12-07-2016, 09:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Y View Post
ah i see... oil cooler starts to work only when thermostatus is activated. wont change warm up time. did you notice oil temp under normal driving condition?
The thermostat activates the respective fan, when the set temp is hit. Your oil cooler (that came with the factory PPK) is located in the *right fender well; which is not effected by any fans, just forward velocity.





*Could be different for you, as I can't keep up with Australia's never ending changing in standards. e.g. imperial --> metric, left hand driving to right hand. Do your WCs still swirl counter clockwise ?
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Who did this sell to? Did buyer receive the intake?
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      12-10-2016, 12:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Y View Post
Thanks mate

Seems high-flow catted DP is the way to go, what is resonator?

As for oil cooler, can it lower oil temp from 120C to 110C under normal driving conditions? 120 is not putting engine into limp mode but will accelerate the hardening of rubber parts around engine. I consider OC as a preventative upgrade actually.

The first mod I did on the car is charge pipe

any good diverter valve for N55?
Get the one from GoFastBits aka GFB
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      12-10-2016, 07:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGCubana View Post
The thermostat activates the respective fan, when the set temp is hit. Your oil cooler (that came with the factory PPK) is located in the *right fender well; which is not effected by any fans, just forward velocity.





*Could be different for you, as I can't keep up with Australia's never ending changing in standards. e.g. imperial --> metric, left hand driving to right hand. Do your WCs still swirl counter clockwise ?

I don`t even notice this I moved to Australia for 5 years only.
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      12-10-2016, 08:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKBMW335I View Post
Get the one from GoFastBits aka GFB
Thanks mate
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      12-12-2016, 11:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Get the one from GoFastBits aka GFB
GFB DV+ is the most popular for sure.
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      12-12-2016, 03:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
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GFB DV+ is the most popular for sure.
I have one. It's good.
Bought it from mrt performance in rhodes
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      12-12-2016, 04:12 PM   #18
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Pointless to get the GFB if you are on a stock turbo, such a pain to put it in since you have to remove your water pump and tstat.
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      12-13-2016, 02:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_BMW_PNW View Post
Pointless to get the GFB if you are on a stock turbo, such a pain to put it in since you have to remove your water pump and tstat.
You don't have to. It's easier, yes, but possible not to. I didn't drop mine. With all the stuffing around I probably only saved 30 mins though.
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      12-13-2016, 11:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_BMW_PNW View Post
Pointless to get the GFB if you are on a stock turbo, such a pain to put it in since you have to remove your water pump and tstat.
You think it's pointless? I thought that when you turn up the boost on the stock turbo that you run the risk of blowing the cheapy plastic DV??

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      12-13-2016, 12:10 PM   #21
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I havent seen enough evidence that it does this with stock turbo, could be wrong

Not all psi is equal when you upgrade to the PS2 or even PS1
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      12-13-2016, 12:13 PM   #22
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Actually PSI is equal assuming no other engine changes are made... The more CFM the compressor tries to push, the higher the PSI in the manifold at any given RPM...
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