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Need help, car won't start, some error messages
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04-01-2018, 02:27 AM | #1 |
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Need help, car won't start, some error messages
Car wouldn't start. Five error messages: CC-ID 24, CC-ID 167, CC-ID 309, CC-ID 50, CC-ID 236. INPA says "battery off, ignition off" even though I have the key-fob in and pressed the START button twice. So can't read errors on my laptop. There was no signs of trouble prior to this. It just came out of the blue.
Will do some googling now but if any of you have some ideas about this please share them. Full story: Yesterday after work I get in the car and as I press the START button it just went "clunk". Try again - "clunk". "Clunk" is my description of the sound it made every time I tried to start it. Didn't even try to turn the starter motor. Then we tried to jumpstart it from another car. But I didn't know there are terminals for that in the engine bay so we did it by just pressing the jumpleads to the plus terminal in the boot as the clamp wouldn't go on. It mostly kept going "clunk" except once it actually started turning the engine over but didn't actually start and just went back to making the "clunk" sound. Then I had a couple of workmates push it and tried starting it in the second gear but no luck as in a flat carpark we couldn't get enough speed. But after that it started turning the engine over but would not start. RAC came and they could not jumpstart it. Relay (blue square one) in the passenger side engine bay corner was making a noise and RAC man loooked at it and tried to by pass it with a wire but no luck. His computer would not read anything from ODB. My laptop doesn't either. This morning it's back to making the "clunk" sound when I try to start it. |
04-01-2018, 04:29 AM | #2 |
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Here is the list of the codes:
CC-ID 24 – DBC Dynamic Brake Control Brake Assist Failed CC-ID 50 – Runflat Indicator Failed CC-ID 167 – Reset Clock CC-ID 236 – Brake and Stability Systems Failure CC-ID 309 – Fuel Pump Malfunction How did my car developed so many faults by simply being parked for 8 hrs? And why does INPA say that battery and ignition are off? |
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04-01-2018, 04:36 AM | #3 |
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No expert in this and may be way off the mark, but could it be the battery?
I know when my wife had a Mk1 Focus, we had the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it was doing all sorts of wierd shit which was down to a knackered battery. |
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04-01-2018, 04:51 AM | #4 |
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The RAC man said the battery is good if a bit low on juice due to my multiple attempts at starting the car. When it was cranking the engine it felt strong. It did get weaker towards the end but the RAC man had it hooked up to a portable battery and his van for a while. It should have put back in enough juice I think.
But there are I think like 3 connections on that battery with red wire. Could it be that maybe only one of the connections has lost contact? Maybe that would make it look like the battery is working while some things have no power? |
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04-01-2018, 07:10 AM | #5 |
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Give the B+ battery to fuse box cable a wiggle, you'll find it behind the glove box. There are plenty of threads about the cable deteriorating & causing issues if you do a search. Am not saying that's your problem but worth looking into.
For future reference you'll find the positive terminal for charging/jump starting under the bonnet on the drivers side with a red cap on it, the negative terminal is a hexagonal bolt located on the inner wing. It's not a good idea to connect straight to the battery for a jump start
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04-01-2018, 08:48 AM | #6 |
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I removed the glove box and blower motor. Glove box needed it's "hydraulic" dampener replaced and I want to see if I can lubricate the blower motor a bit, tho I think it might be the brushes that are making the whistle at low speeds. I think I found the B+ cable. Thick red cable on the side of the fuse box closer to the centre console. It's not easy to get to. But the connector is easily sliding back and forth. There don't seem to be any click-in-place. The blower motor housing is in the way for me to get a good look. Will see if I can somehow remove that housing.
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04-01-2018, 12:47 PM | #8 |
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After a lot of googling the only thing I found is that on eBay they seem to be calling it a "pole wire". But I can't find any information on what it is.
Any of you know anything about it? I've circled it in green in the pic: |
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04-02-2018, 03:25 AM | #9 |
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My first thought would be battery and would explain a lot of things. Can you connect it to a charger at all?
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04-02-2018, 03:56 AM | #11 |
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How old is the battery BTW? Mine failed at 6 years. They're not really designed to last much more than 3 years sadly.
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04-02-2018, 04:49 AM | #12 |
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If it was the battery wouldn't the RAC man have just started the car and problem solved? And the OBD port doesn't seem to be working. Of course the battery is dead by now. I just bought a charger to recharge it and will try again. Tho I have a bad feeling that it's not just the battery.
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04-02-2018, 04:56 AM | #13 |
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Yes, that figures. Although the battery can be blamed for a variety of problems and as it's easy to replace that's why it was first suggested.
I was wondering if one of the control modules is goosed - considering the obd port doesn't work. Have you checked all fuses / relays? |
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04-02-2018, 05:10 AM | #14 | |
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04-02-2018, 01:45 PM | #15 | ||
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Like I said, I doubt this is to do with the red B+ cable issue. When that goes you get nothing. There is no power at all, no dash warning lights, no crank nothing. Do you have a multi meter to check the battery voltage? The OBD port won't work below a certain voltage. |
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04-02-2018, 02:48 PM | #16 |
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04-02-2018, 02:53 PM | #17 |
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Dude if its not your battery its your starter. Connect everything back together and tap your starter from top of engine bay using a pry-bar or something while someone else press start button. if you can make it to start then there is your problem. I did this last year.
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04-02-2018, 03:12 PM | #18 | |
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04-02-2018, 03:44 PM | #19 |
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Just seen a thread with some posts that may help, the OP was RAR & is titled, DSC Failure engine cuts out.
It seems that it could be the blue relay you mentioned in your first post. It's worth a read & may be of help.
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04-04-2018, 12:15 PM | #21 |
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04-04-2018, 12:28 PM | #22 | |
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I got the fuse box back in. The B+ cable and everything else look mint. The burnt out connections I saw on YouTube might be an LCI problem? My pre-LCI has a solid bolt-and-nut connection. Checked all the fuses and they are good. Can't check the relays as I don't have any alligator clip cables. Will get them tomorrow from Halfords. The battery compartment looks good too. But the battery itself isn't looking very healthy so I have a new one coming. Been slow going due to constant rain, limited selection of tools and the fact that a walk to the Halfords and back is a good hour. Living without a car sucks. Though it's good for my died because I'm too lazy to walk to the shop for snacks. |
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cc-id 167, cc-id 236, cc-id 24, cc-id 309, cc-id 50 |
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