[bmwfixr]

Originally Posted by Built My Way

If all you have on hand are the long bolts then yes, you will need to shorten the upper one by 1/8". Best to use the proper ones though.

Interesting, just did this today, and the top bolt seemed ok. It was not shorter, matched the original bolts. I'll have to go back and check it again tomorrow.

[bvanderhaar]

03/08 build date 328xi. My WP part number is not mentioned in the initial post - 11517586925. I ordered the same part number as a replacement, it had rubber washers and included longer bolts.

The BavAuto videos helped a bit, however, here are my notes:

• The xi has a unique power steering holder - you must remove 3 nuts and use a 19-20mm wrench instead of the 17mm mentioned.
• The holder also must be removed from the frame to allow the sway bar to sway freely. There is a 10mm bolt holding it to the frame.
• Use a ratcheting E12 box end wrench for the bottom WP bolts, I used the one recommended for the OFHG job
• Removal of the radiator fan would allow you to use this for the top WP bolt; I used a 1/4 socket with multiple extensions to get it
• A 10mm wrench also helps to remove the thermostat bolts

Thanks to everyone who provided DIY comments! Glad I got this done without getting stranded - had a ton of 2E81/2E82 errors in my logs.

[PhaseP]

How in the world you could do it with an XI that way? Not even removing the radiator ???

I tackled this on my XI recently. I removed the PS loop, dropped down the sway bar, disassembled that long coolant plastic pie along the frame, removed the right wheel and wheel liner, even removed passenger side engine mount nut then lifted engine up one or two inches, tried all those ways. No dice! There was no way to get a good grab and break the 10 year old glued tight hoses from the thermostat. My hands are somewhat thick, didn't help. Maybe if I had one of those hose removal pliers I could, but would still be difficult. I mean even getting to the hose clamp nut is a challenge. And I don't have one of those flexible stem hose clamp nut drivers, wish I had.

So in the end I said enough is enough, put my HF bought engine support bar on top engine hanging from it dropped the front sub frame down a few inches. And then, I had full access to thermostat and waterpump.

If I were to do it again, I would drop the frame again. It is so much easier with full access that way.

But maybe I could consider removing the radiator fan and radiator, which Pelican Parts article says how to do it.

What a pain! And mine was just for thermostat, pump was fine, no hidden pump code, no overheating, 10 years old, 100K mile pump. Still replaced it with new though as precaution.

[bvanderhaar]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

How in the world you could do it with an XI that way? Not even removing the radiator ???

I tackled this on my XI recently. I removed the PS loop, dropped down the sway bar, disassembled that long coolant plastic pie along the frame, removed the right wheel and wheel liner, even removed passenger side engine mount nut then lifted engine up one or two inches, tried all those ways. No dice! There was no way to get a good grab and break the 10 year old glued tight hoses from the thermostat. My hands are somewhat thick, didn't help. Maybe if I had one of those hose removal pliers I could, but would still be difficult. I mean even getting to the hose clamp nut is a challenge. And I don't have one of those flexible stem hose clamp nut drivers, wish I had.

So in the end I said enough is enough, put my HF bought engine support bar on top engine hanging from it dropped the front sub frame down a few inches. And then, I had full access to thermostat and waterpump.

If I were to do it again, I would drop the frame again. It is so much easier with full access that way.

But maybe I could consider removing the radiator fan and radiator, which Pelican Parts article says how to do it.

What a pain! And mine was just for thermostat, pump was fine, no hidden pump code, no overheating, 10 years old, 100K mile pump. Still replaced it with new though as precaution.

I'm glad someone recognizes it's difficult on x-drive. I didn't have a flex screwdriver either and used regular flathead to remove the hoses. I didn't remove the radiator or passenger wheel but did remove the stiffening plate to get a view of the other hoses. It's possible.

It took me significantly longer than I thought it would - but glad it's all done.

[fbo305335i]

I Just did this diy great help took me about 4 hours since my first try at this but very helpful post thread most difficult part imo is putting the thermostat hoses all back on when new water pump is bolted on but patients is key little different on my 07 335i e93 have to take off some frame supports brakets bars also mys 6spped so no transmission hose metioned here but this helps a lot of us very appreciative of this thanks a lot

[Hannibal4444]

I removed the clip from Hose #2 of the thermostat, but the hose is not budging at all!!! even when i try to pry it out. Any suggestions for removal? I need to get this one out to access the upper bolt of the water pump.. been stuck on it for over an hour

[VXEric]

Originally Posted by Hannibal4444

I removed the clip from Hose #2 of the thermostat, but the hose is not budging at all!!! even when i try to pry it out. Any suggestions for removal? I need to get this one out to access the upper bolt of the water pump.. been stuck on it for over an hour

This is a hose with a "fitting" instead of a hose clamp? one of mine was stuck too. Once the clip was fully loosened, i dripped coolant into the connection and worked it by pushing in and pulling out, took a few minutes but it gradually worked loose.

[scorp508]

Originally Posted by bvanderhaar

I'm glad someone recognizes it's difficult on x-drive. I didn't have a flex screwdriver either and used regular flathead to remove the hoses. I didn't remove the radiator or passenger wheel but did remove the stiffening plate to get a view of the other hoses. It's possible.

It took me significantly longer than I thought it would - but glad it's all done.

I started my '07 335xi and holy hell is this more involved than the videos show. I'm almost wishing I paid to have it done, lol. I have the radiator fan and right wheel & well cover out to get more access.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by scorp508

I started my '07 335xi and holy hell is this more involved than the videos show. I'm almost wishing I paid to have it done, lol. I have the radiator fan and right wheel & well cover out to get more access.

Keep us posted.

I'm about to do an '08 335xi.

[scorp508]

Originally Posted by terryd5150

Keep us posted.

I'm about to do an '08 335xi.

I got the stuff out tonight and I'll install the new parts tomorrow. I haven't read all 11 pages of this thread, but on my 335xi there is a lot more stuff in the way and a lot less room to maneuver. The BavAuto video makes the area look like acres of lush grasslands compared to what I have.

I started following someone else's thread and then was able to fill in other steps with the BavAuto video.

I'm tired so forgive me if something here is missing. I'm doing my best to remember what I did.

1. Put the front wheels up on ramps.
2. Loosened expansion tank cap and bleeder screw.
3. Disconnected the coolant hose that goes into the AT cooler on the driver side of the intercooler, drained as much coolant as would come out. This one is one of those quick connect ends.
4. Reconnected the hose connector once it finished draining.
5. Disconnected power steering hose on passenger and driver side. These are those annoying rubber isolator things. One of the bolts snapped on mine so I guess that'll be zip tied back into place. :/
6. Removed four sway bar bolts on the front of the cross member.
7. Removed the two 10mm bolts that hold a plastic cooling line to the front of the cross member just under the sway bar. This cooling line has the sway bar held captive and you cannot rotate the sway bar down out of the way without disconnecting this from the cross member.
8. Once that cooling line is disconnected from the cross member I removed the two (one per side) small brackets the power steering hose isolators were connected through. This is a major PIA. Each bracket is one 10mm bolt that is on the top of the cross member. The passenger side one isn't too bad, but the driver side one is out of sight. A short ratcheting 10mm wrench makes it a lot easier or else you'll be turning the bolt 1/8 a turn at a time with a conventional combination wrench and doing it all by feel.
9. Once those brackets are out the sway bar can be convinced to rotate down out of the way. It will rotate behind that plastic cooling line if you push the cooling line towards the front of the car.
10. At this point I removed the radiator fan as it looked like a tight fit to try and pull the water pump out the area I had free. It isn't too bad to do.
11. I then put the right front of the car on a jack stand and removed the passenger wheel and fender liner to try and get an eye on all of the hoses. It is TIGHT in there. Be aware of the sensor on the fender liner you have to disconnect before you can pull it off the car.
12. Remove the one electrical connector from the thermostat. It has a clip on one side that you need to lift gently wile pulling the connector off.
13. I then started disconnecting hoses from the thermostat. I couldn't see how I would get the water pump out first like so many other people do. This is just a slow and steady (and annoying) step as the hoses with the traditional clamps will be stuck on rather well. I coaxed them off with some convincing from a screw driver. It took a while, they were crusty.
14. Once the hoses are disconnected you can remove the two 10mm bolts holding the thermostat to the water pump.
15. The thermostat should come out pretty easy at this point. Don't dump coolant on your face like I did.
16. With the thermostat out you should now have access to the water pump electrical connector. Gently push the tab on the passenger side of the plug in while gently nudging it off with a screwdriver.
17. With the plug off the final hose clamp should be accessible and pointing straight down. I used a short 6mm 1/4" drive socket and a very small ratchet coming in from the right wheel well.
18. Note: I did not disconnect the hose that connects the thermostat and water pump from the water pump side. I pulled that hose out while still connected to the water pump.
19. After loosening the last hose clamp I was able to use a screwdriver from the front of the car and coax off the hose.
20. Push the loose electrical plug up and out of the way so it does not get caught inside the u-shaped thermostat to water pump hose when you pull out the water pump.
21. Disconnect the ground wire from the front of the water pump. It is an E12 torx bolt.
22. Remove the bottom two E12 torx bolts from the water pump
23. Remove the top E12 torx bolt from the water pump
24. Coax the water pump out. I had to (looking up from the ground) clockwise a bit so the host attached to it would clear some stuff and come out.
25. Don't disconnect the hose from the water pump once you have it out so you can see how it is oriented and put your new thermostat to water pump hose on your new water pump.

You'll absolutely need a 3/8" swivel joint to get the lower E12 torx bolts off of the water pump as they point right at the cross member so it is impossible to get on them straight without a swivel.

I don't have one of those flexible hose clamp drivers so I used flat screwdrivers and a 6mm socket.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by scorp508

I got the stuff out tonight and I'll install the new parts tomorrow. I haven't read all 11 pages of this thread, but on my 335xi there is a lot more stuff in the way and a lot less room to maneuver. The BavAuto video makes the area look like acres of lush grasslands compared to what I have.

I started following someone else's thread and then was able to fill in other steps with the BavAuto video.

I'm tired so forgive me if something here is missing. I'm doing my best to remember what I did.

1. Put the front wheels up on ramps.
2. Loosened expansion tank cap and bleeder screw.
3. Disconnected the coolant hose that goes into the AT cooler on the driver side of the intercooler, drained as much coolant as would come out. This one is one of those quick connect ends.
4. Reconnected the hose connector once it finished draining.
5. Disconnected power steering hose on passenger and driver side. These are those annoying rubber isolator things. One of the bolts snapped on mine so I guess that'll be zip tied back into place. :/
6. Removed four sway bar bolts on the front of the cross member.
7. Removed the two 10mm bolts that hold a plastic cooling line to the front of the cross member just under the sway bar. This cooling line has the sway bar held captive and you cannot rotate the sway bar down out of the way without disconnecting this from the cross member.
8. Once that cooling line is disconnected from the cross member I removed the two (one per side) small brackets the power steering hose isolators were connected through. This is a major PIA. Each bracket is one 10mm bolt that is on the top of the cross member. The passenger side one isn't too bad, but the driver side one is out of sight. A short ratcheting 10mm wrench makes it a lot easier or else you'll be turning the bolt 1/8 a turn at a time with a conventional combination wrench and doing it all by feel.
9. Once those brackets are out the sway bar can be convinced to rotate down out of the way. It will rotate behind that plastic cooling line if you push the cooling line towards the front of the car.
10. At this point I removed the radiator fan as it looked like a tight fit to try and pull the water pump out the area I had free. It isn't too bad to do.
11. I then put the right front of the car on a jack stand and removed the passenger wheel and fender liner to try and get an eye on all of the hoses. It is TIGHT in there. Be aware of the sensor on the fender liner you have to disconnect before you can pull it off the car.
12. Remove the one electrical connector from the thermostat. It has a clip on one side that you need to lift gently wile pulling the connector off.
13. I then started disconnecting hoses from the thermostat. I couldn't see how I would get the water pump out first like so many other people do. This is just a slow and steady (and annoying) step as the hoses with the traditional clamps will be stuck on rather well. I coaxed them off with some convincing from a screw driver. It took a while, they were crusty.
14. Once the hoses are disconnected you can remove the two 10mm bolts holding the thermostat to the water pump.
15. The thermostat should come out pretty easy at this point. Don't dump coolant on your face like I did.
16. With the thermostat out you should now have access to the water pump electrical connector. Gently push the tab on the passenger side of the plug in while gently nudging it off with a screwdriver.
17. With the plug off the final hose clamp should be accessible and pointing straight down. I used a short 6mm 1/4" drive socket and a very small ratchet coming in from the right wheel well.
18. Note: I did not disconnect the hose that connects the thermostat and water pump from the water pump side. I pulled that hose out while still connected to the water pump.
19. After loosening the last hose clamp I was able to use a screwdriver from the front of the car and coax off the hose.
20. Push the loose electrical plug up and out of the way so it does not get caught inside the u-shaped thermostat to water pump hose when you pull out the water pump.
21. Disconnect the ground wire from the front of the water pump. It is an E12 torx bolt.
22. Remove the bottom two E12 torx bolts from the water pump
23. Remove the top E12 torx bolt from the water pump
24. Coax the water pump out. I had to (looking up from the ground) clockwise a bit so the host attached to it would clear some stuff and come out.
25. Don't disconnect the hose from the water pump once you have it out so you can see how it is oriented and put your new thermostat to water pump hose on your new water pump.

You'll absolutely need a 3/8" swivel joint to get the lower E12 torx bolts off of the water pump as they point right at the cross member so it is impossible to get on them straight without a swivel.

I don't have one of those flexible hose clamp drivers so I used flat screwdrivers and a 6mm socket.

Thanks for the update.

I think you've convinced me to get this quoted by the local indies.

I'm a highly-skilled DIYer but my home garage isn't equipped to drop the subframe.

[scorp508]

Originally Posted by terryd5150

Thanks for the update.

I think you've convinced me to get this quoted by the local indies.

I'm a highly-skilled DIYer but my home garage isn't equipped to drop the subframe.

I didn't touch the subframe, but that would actually make this easy.

I just put the new pump in, trying to find the torque spec for the aluminum bolts which is proving difficult to locate.

[terryd5150]

Originally Posted by scorp508

I didn't touch the subframe, but that would actually make this easy.

That was kinda my point....

If even after removing the wheel, wheel well liner, fan, & radiator there still isn't enough room to work reasonably then I'd rather farm this one out.

[bvanderhaar]

Originally Posted by scorp508

I started my '07 335xi and holy hell is this more involved than the videos show. I'm almost wishing I paid to have it done, lol. I have the radiator fan and right wheel & well cover out to get more access.

It looks like you got it done - congrats! And thanks for adding notes for others. I debated during a couple breaks to just have it towed in and finished by a shop. But I persisted and it ended up OK.

@terryd5150
(and others) I think it is worth quoting on an xi; however, I think if you watch the videos first, then read the notes here and expect it to be a super tight space; the job isn't impossible. Mine isn't a N54, but I was able to complete the job without taking the radiator fan or the wheel/well cover off. Honestly, the worst part is tightening/loosening/orienting the hoses in such a tight space. Just tedious stuff.

[bsmoov]

Just tackled this job this past weekend. Had the parts for preventive maintenance for about 3 weeks, but something always came up. Last Friday car got the dreaded light/limp mode. AAA towed home and I had the parts ready.

Started Saturday morning at about 11:00 am and finished about 4:30 pm.

PITA!!!

I did not take off fan. I did not take off wheel liner.

Relatively easy, but the location and tight spaces killed me. OMFG. The 6mm/flathead hose clamps seemed to be at the most ackward locations and one of them was inaccessible (facing opposite way) and I had to loosen it from the front with the flexible extension.

Only thing hard on this job is the upper WP bolt. You need a LOT of patience and a swivel/adjustable head. My neck and arm is still sore from looking at it and guiding the head attachment with my other hand.

The hoses are freaking fused together and it took a LOT of get them off. I have so many cuts on my hands its not even funny.

reinstallation was easy. I put the thermostat in first and had it tucked away and then bolted on the waterpump. After the waterpump was bolted on then I attached the thermostat after. Some people said waterpump goes in first, but theres NO way that the thermostat would fit in after the waterpump went in first.

Hoses went back in easy and you adjust the clamps to your convenience. 2 of the thermostat hoses were connected from the top/engine bay as it was easier for me.

Bleeding was easy.

Like I stated. Toughest parts were the top WP bolt and getting the hoses off. That's it.

[seccsc]

Just as an FYI, while draining the thermostat and/or the pump, make sure you clean out the electrical connections afterwards. While draining coolant from the thermostat connection hoses, expect to dusche those electrical connections. Cheers!

[AoneHeight]

This was a great write up. I followed the directions and finished the job in 3.5 hours. That included enough time to grab more beer during the job. Thanks!!!

[ATLIEN]

I had a new waterpump replaced under cpo about 20k miles ago but they did not replace the thermostat and now i have a code for a new thermostat that's been on for about a year. No issues but it annoys me and I want to go ahead and fix it with winter upon us.
In my situation would you go ahead and buy a new waterpump / thermostat combo or simply get the new thermostat and call it a day?

[Built My Way]

Originally Posted by ATLIEN

I had a new waterpump replaced under cpo about 20k miles ago but they did not replace the thermostat and now i have a code for a new thermostat that's been on for about a year. No issues but it annoys me and I want to go ahead and fix it with winter upon us.
In my situation would you go ahead and buy a new waterpump / thermostat combo or simply get the new thermostat and call it a day?

I'd get both done for peace of mind. Labour cost is going to be roughly the same anyway. A new waterpump, thermostat, bolts and coolant will run you around $600 from BavAuto. I think it's free shipping for orders over $150. Stealership parts would obviously be more.

If you are planning on selling the car soon-ish then consider doing only the thermostat. You would save $ on the pump? Take into account your financial situation. This is a lot of money for some people. GL

[Built My Way]

Originally Posted by AoneHeight

This was a great write up. I followed the directions and finished the job in 3.5 hours. That included enough time to grab more beer during the job. Thanks!!!

Wow! 3.5 hours? Well done.

[IN54NITY]

Another 80k mile water pump failure here... Waiting on parts to arrive. OP, thanks for the thread. For those who have a flexible shaft screw/bit driver, did it save you a lot of time? This is one tool that I don't have that sounds like a good time saver for the job. Note: I have ~numerous~ universal joints for angled socket work, I am specifically asking about the flexible shaft bit drivers.

[tcphoto]

Otto has the patience of a Saint and the knowledge to match. After nearly seven years in an E46, it's amazing how the 3 Series engine has changed. I've only had my E92 for six weeks but I love learning about the cars. I hope that I don't need to do any intense DIY's for awhile.