[Blubaron79]

Cross posting from general forum:

I am right at 89k miles. Had spark plugs changed for 2nd time 800 miles ago per maint. requirement. Change my oil every 7,500 miles, and had my intakes cleaned about 17k miles ago. (I also have the PPK1 softwate installed) I have noticed when my car is idling when warm or cold there is almost a slight 'shake' maybe once a minute or less, however the RPMs don't dip nor does the exauhst sound like the car is missing.

Could this be due to the recent spark plug change? I know the N54 never runs 100% smooth, but curious if anyone has any ideas what this may be. My dealer will never really look at anything unless it throws a code, and I have no check engine light. Any input would be appreciated!
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[solishe]

This happened to me and progressively got worse. New plugs did nothing for me. Dealer wouldn't do anything without codes. I took it to an independent shop and they read cylinder 5 was causing the roughness but no codes. Swapped coils and it was still rough. Finally I got a cylinder 5 misfire code a week later. Turned out to be a leaky injector with bad spray pattern. Replaced and issue is gone. Good luck.

[Blubaron79]

Originally Posted by solishe

This happened to me and progressively got worse. New plugs did nothing for me. Dealer wouldn't do anything without codes. I took it to an independent shop and they read cylinder 5 was causing the roughness but no codes. Swapped coils and it was still rough. Finally I got a cylinder 5 misfire code a week later. Turned out to be a leaky injector with bad spray pattern. Replaced and issue is gone. Good luck.

Thanks. I had new injectors put in less than a year ago. Still under warranty, so we will see what happens.

[JO3]

I've been having the exact same issue as you, Blubaron79, for the last 30k miles. Spark plugs, coils, and injectors were all replaced during this time, and valves were cleaned also, but nothing helped.

Worst thing is, if I'm slipping the clutch when one of the "shakes" happens, it causes the engine to stall.

One time, I was in neutral, and I turned the steering wheel all the way to lock (this usually causes the RPMs to go up a bit) and it caused the engine to stall.

It's so strange. I haven't been able to find a solution. I'm thinking of coding my RPMs to be a bit higher to see if that will help.

[Blubaron79]

Originally Posted by JO3

I've been having the exact same issue as you, Blubaron79, for the last 30k miles. Spark plugs, coils, and injectors were all replaced during this time, and valves were cleaned also, but nothing helped.

Worst thing is, if I'm slipping the clutch when one of the "shakes" happens, it causes the engine to stall.

One time, I was in neutral, and I turned the steering wheel all the way to lock (this usually causes the RPMs to go up a bit) and it caused the engine to stall.

It's so strange. I haven't been able to find a solution. I'm thinking of coding my RPMs to be a bit higher to see if that will help.

Wow. Sorry to hear. Mine isn't that abrupt where I feel like my engine is going to stall.

[BillionPa]

Originally Posted by JO3

I've been having the exact same issue as you, Blubaron79, for the last 30k miles. Spark plugs, coils, and injectors were all replaced during this time, and valves were cleaned also, but nothing helped.

Worst thing is, if I'm slipping the clutch when one of the "shakes" happens, it causes the engine to stall.

One time, I was in neutral, and I turned the steering wheel all the way to lock (this usually causes the RPMs to go up a bit) and it caused the engine to stall.

It's so strange. I haven't been able to find a solution. I'm thinking of coding my RPMs to be a bit higher to see if that will help.

sounds like you need a new power steering pump!

[Blubaron79]

Good point. No way turning the wheel should stall an engine.

[GSXR1000]

Originally Posted by Blubaron79

Cross posting from general forum:

I am right at 89k miles. Had spark plugs changed for 2nd time 800 miles ago per maint. requirement. Change my oil every 7,500 miles, and had my intakes cleaned about 17k miles ago. (I also have the PPK1 softwate installed) I have noticed when my car is idling when warm or cold there is almost a slight 'shake' maybe once a minute or less, however the RPMs don't dip nor does the exauhst sound like the car is missing.

Could this be due to the recent spark plug change? I know the N54 never runs 100% smooth, but curious if anyone has any ideas what this may be. My dealer will never really look at anything unless it throws a code, and I have no check engine light. Any input would be appreciated!
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I have the exact problem. I took it to bmw and they suggested I get my fuel system cleaned including intake valves. I only have 34k miles. I'm pretty positive it's the fuel system
Though because I tried e85 for the first time recently and my car LOVED it. The engine ping/shake doesn't exist. It runs smooth!

[E92mech]

This is a timely post for me, since my car just came back from the dealer yesterday after I brought it in for the same symptom. FWIW I don't know for sure if this is the fix in your situation but here goes...

My car is a 2010 E92 with 47xxx mi. I was getting lots of stumbling on very cold starts with ambient temp <35F. I was also getting a similar slight stumble intermittently similar to what you describe while at idle, and ever-so-slight roughness at high loads in the 2500-3000 RPM range and what I thought was some pinging, although the last time I logged a WOT run I didn't see a lot of timing correction.

My spark plugs were all replaced less than 2000 miles ago on schedule for 45k service and made no improvement. I've never had intake valve cleaning.

For a long time I observed the cold start symptom but there were no codes. Finally last week I detected multiple 29C-series codes indicating multiple cylinder misfire after one of these cold start instances. N.B. I checked codes right after cold start to make sure I wasn't picking up confounding codes after driving. All done on 93 octane V-power.

Brought it to the dealer and they confirmed cold start misfiring and codes. They ended up replacing all six fuel injectors with the new type-079 units.

In the one day since I've gotten it back I've noticed that it seems to run perceptibly smoother across the range, and the cold start issue is solved.

I don't know for sure if the smoother running is due to the fact that one of my old injectors was fouled, or due to the redesigned "updated" 079 injectors, or both. At least those of us still under warranty benefit from the redesign in that we get a complete set of 6.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Blubaron79

Wow. Sorry to hear. Mine isn't that abrupt where I feel like my engine is going to stall.

If it's that bad it's probably fuel related, but that's hard to pin point.

Even though many aspects of your hardware have been changed they can still fail prematurely, IE. Injectors.

If your spark plugs are in good standing and your are not getting any misfires, it usually suggest that your problem is in the fuel.

Injectors, HPFP, or LPFP, or Low pressure sensor. Any shadow codes?

[JO3]

Thought I'd follow up on this thread.

I had the recall work done for the power cable to the fuse box, and it seems to have fixed the idle issues. No more stumbling or stalling since I've gotten it fixed. If you have this problem, this might do the trick for you.


Here's the interesting tid-bit from from the recall description:

DESCRIPTION OF PROBLEM

This Recall involves the vehicle power supply system. The connection between the positive battery cable and the fuse box can wear over time. If the wear is excessive, then in most cases, this can cause a break in the electrical connection and create a non-starting condition in the vehicle.

In certain cases, it can also cause a momentary flickering of the display in the instrument cluster or a momentary (less than one second) engine shut down. The electrical system may also be completely interrupted during vehicle operation, and result in engine stalling and a loss of various vehicle systems that could increase the risk of a crash