[Chrisred]

Have the TC Kline single adj. front and double adj. rear with a spring rate of 450/700.

I have to admit it handles great but it gets bouncy. I've even gone very stiff rebound and compression in rear. Bit better but still bouncy.

Is it cause I need the upgrade to M3 bushings??

What should be stiffer: the rebound or compression or should I increase both at same time ??

What are your guys' settings .....

[cvc 22349a]

It's bouncy cuz you installed a stiff suspension without firming up the subframe bushings. Depending how stiff your springs are and how much you drive at the track, you need at least M3 subframe bushings

[Chrisred]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

It's bouncy cuz you installed a stiff suspension without firming up the subframe bushings. Depending how stiff your springs are and how much you drive at the track, you need at least M3 subframe bushings

Thought so. Getting installed next week :-)

[cvc 22349a]

You'll still have some bounce with M3 subframe bushings but it'll be ALOT less

[CJ421]

Turn down the rebound and see how the ride improves.

[mike-y]

also try to turn down the compression (but leave the high rebound). That should also make the ride more comfortable

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by mike-y

also try to turn down the compression (but leave the high rebound). That should also make the ride more comfortable

That's going to do the opposite of improving the ride and handling. Rebound is overused.

[cvc 22349a]

OP-just saw you're running 700 lb rear springs. Hope you're going with something stiffer than M3 subframe bushings if bounce bothers you. Those spring rates are for a track car. Do yourself a favor and search subframe bushings in this forum and M3 for cars running stiff springs like yours

[Chrisred]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

OP-just saw you're running 700 lb rear springs. Hope you're going with something stiffer than M3 subframe bushings if bounce bothers you. Those spring rates are for a track car. Do yourself a favor and search subframe bushings in this forum and M3 for cars running stiff springs like yours

Well I'm installing the M3 bushings either tmrw or Monday. We'll see how that feels. Worst case scenario I drop down to 600# rear

[neoduffer]

Originally Posted by mike-y

also try to turn down the compression (but leave the high rebound). That should also make the ride more comfortable

I was going to suggest the same. I have 400F/672R with singles and increasing the rebound damping helped reduced the bounciness.

[turugara]

You want to maintain a high compression to rebound ratio. The other way around increases bounciness.

[Chrisred]

Originally Posted by turugara

You want to maintain a high compression to rebound ratio. The other way around increases bounciness.

Well now I have compression set at 9/12 clicks. So pretty high. Bit better.

I've been playing around with rebound while maintaining this same compression.

Ive also done the reverse. Kept compression bit lower and rebound higher. Still bouncy. Guess we'll see what M3 bushings do....

[Chrisred]

Does bounciness increase if car is more slammed???

[CJ421]

Slammed - yes, there is more limited suspension travel. The ride will be firmer without a doubt.

Try what I said - leave the compression at 9/12, reduce the rebound to 25% (3/12 assuming there are 12 clicks). Rebound is way overused; there needs to be just enough. If there's too much then the damper cannot extend itself quickly enough and you'll have an imprecise ride. Another tell of too much rebound is getting bounced out of your seat over bigger bumps.

[mike-y]

Originally Posted by CJ421

That's going to do the opposite of improving the ride and handling. Rebound is overused.

OP:

Originally Posted by Chrisred

I've even gone very stiff rebound and compression in rear. Bit better but still bouncy.

If he's cranked the compression all the way up, then turning it down WILL make the ride more comfortable.

performance shocks inherently have more rebound force than compression force for a reason (i.e. koni yellows and lower end adjustable shocks). There is also a reason why all single adjustable shocks only adjust the rebound portion of the valving.


also, when my konis were on full soft, I was getting bounced out of my seat going over dips on the freeway.. firming up the rebound settled the car significantly.

[CJ421]

Right but what I'm saying is reduce the rebound to well below what it is now, and leave compression alone. While the ride may still be stiff, this method will at least show which ratio of rebound/compression provides a ride that isn't 'bouncy'. It's too much rebound that leads to ill ride quality and handling.

If I'm wrong, I'm wrong. But I want to hear what the OP says about said combo.

[mike-y]

yeah, I guess he can try both and see what the difference is.

The double adjustable setup I'm getting on my track car allows you to run the compression valving on the external canister "wide open" for street use (for guys that still drive to/from the track). Whenever they finish getting built, I will try it myself.