[NM_BMW]

Originally Posted by BES335xi

Yeah i ordered the parts/servo motor from Tischer as well and also ordered "Set classification resistor Part# 27 10 7 557 345" I watched a youtube video about the Servo Motor posted on my thread on the XI section and it said whenever you replace you're servo motor be sure to replace the resistor as well.

My adaptive headlights are messed up too, but i think i messed 'em up my self when i installed my LED AE's, i broke the clips on the cover and i was getting condensation inside my headlights whenever it rained, i just ordered a new cover and will try and reset 'em all as you did via BT Tool and well see if that clears them away.

Thank you for the info bro! much appreciated.

You don't need to order the resistor. When your order the set positioning motor it comes complete. Bolts, o-ring and the resistor. Everything you need.

You just need Part #27107546671 and the transfer case fluid and your set.

[BES335xi]

Originally Posted by Humtek

You don't need to order the resistor. When your order the set positioning motor it comes complete. Bolts, o-ring and the resistor. Everything you need.

You just need Part #27107546671 and the transfer case fluid and your set.

Oh damn, i ordered the resistor and o-ring seperately...I will write Tischer an e-mail right away, asking them to modify my order.

Thank's bro

[NM_BMW]

Figure I'd add these here. I never had time to take apart the old motor to look to see what failed. Before I had a chance I sold and mailed it off to another forum member to use for development work. From the below pictures you can tell the worm gear is actually metal and not plastic like other rumors have mentioned. From his inspection he isn't sure why it failed because it was metal on metal and there was enough proper lubrication. My transfer case was never replaced, I only replaced the motor and the car ran fine since then.

[Kalud]

Originally Posted by Humtek

Figure I'd add these here. I never had time to take apart the old motor to look to see what failed. Before I had a chance I sold and mailed it off to another forum member to use for development work. From the below pictures you can tell the worm gear is actually metal and not plastic like other rumors have mentioned. From his inspection he isn't sure why it failed because it was metal on metal and there was enough proper lubrication. My transfer case was never replaced, I only replaced the motor and the car ran fine since then.

More pics here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post12962481

[NM_BMW]

Originally Posted by Kalud

More pics here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post12962481

Thanks for sharing Kalud

[Strictly4Boosting]

Bringing back an old thread.

Seem to have the same problem , i dont hear a clicking but I have the hesitation sometimes where I try to take off and it pulls back then all the lights come on , I ordered the actuator thru ecs tuning for $375 . Should I change the transfer case fluid or just add?

[NM_BMW]

Originally Posted by Strictly4Boosting

Bringing back an old thread.

Seem to have the same problem , i dont hear a clicking but I have the hesitation sometimes where I try to take off and it pulls back then all the lights come on , I ordered the actuator thru ecs tuning for $375 . Should I change the transfer case fluid or just add?

That's a hell of a deal on the the motor! I would go ahead and change the fluid, you're already removing the support mount so might as well take advantage and change the fluid while your there.

[Strictly4Boosting]

yeah ecs tuning is now selling actuators for 375 plus shipping , im hoping its the actuator and not the transfer case itself. i got the car with 120k , i would get hesitation like it didnt want to go and then the lights would come on 4x4 abs etc etc then the car would be fine

but now i turn the car on and as soon as i move forward the lights come on ..... i get a couple grinds here and there when going 5-10mph before the lights come on, im hoping its the motor

[NM_BMW]

Sounds like exactly what I had. Slowly I would get the lights, then every time I started up and rolled a few feet my dash turned into a Christmas tree. At first I'd hear grinding then it eventually went away as the worm gear stripped more and more. You would know if it was a blown transfer case, if you have a BT Cable you could find out for sure. In fact you need a BT cable if you want to replace it, as you have to reset a few things after you replace the unit.

[Strictly4Boosting]

Originally Posted by Humtek

Sounds like exactly what I had. Slowly I would get the lights, then every time I started up and rolled a few feet my dash turned into a Christmas tree. At first I'd hear grinding then it eventually went away as the worm gear stripped more and more. You would know if it was a blown transfer case, if you have a BT Cable you could find out for sure. In fact you need a BT cable if you want to replace it, as you have to reset a few things after you replace the unit.

Wouldn't it reset itself after I change the actuator motor? I have read in a couple threads that you just need to replace and just drive off. Thanks for helping out , you seem to have alot of knowledge.

: By the way im driving a 2006 330xi

[NM_BMW]

That wasn't the case for me. After replacing the motor I started my car and all the lights had vanished, except the 4X4 light was still on. I didn't attempt to drive around, so I used BT to reset that module. And everything was fine after that. You could try driving off, but I don't think it resets on its own. You have to do it via BT or dealer.

[upstatecoupe]

This weekend I noticed a slight hesitation in 2nd and 3rd gear with normal throttle. Then tonight my DCS, ABS and 4x4 lights came on. Hopefully it's the transfer case motor or a sensor. I will have to take it into my indy to find out. Damn and it's supposed to snow/sleet/rain tomorrow. 2007 E92xi with 127K.

[upstatecoupe]

It was the worm gear in the positioning motor. It looked like the one in the photo above. My indy charged an hour to take out and an another hour put the new one in. Took a few days to get the part. Lots of sites sell it, but nobody stocks it. They all need to get it from BMW first. I got it back just before the Nemo Blizzard though.

[viprez586]

Bumping the thread.
I having the same issue as orangedawg.
I believe I need to recode the transfer case. I'm trying to gather software but it seems everything is infested with Trojans, malware, or spyware.

If someone could give me a hand with getting the software I need. I'd really appreciate it. I ordered the cable required to do so and so far I have:

INPA
NCS
NCSdummy
WINKFP
EDIABAS (even though it says tool32)

[BMW zone]

I have the same problems! In my 2007 328xi Fault Report - Carly for BMW - Version: 19.67
FV
ID1: a0063303-1264-4a24-af1f-cfaa4c2b3439-857
ID2: 52561335-b5d0-425e-8af9-29cc202248e4-ca2-382001f49162ec5d
INFO: 0E07E0D4B6A9A38B7365514630282
Base: E90
Build-Year: 2006
Faults: 16
ECUs: 15
Filter: just found
Model: 328 i alle/all (MotorID=92, Parameter=31)
Battery: 13.8V
Enhanced communication
Alternative connection
slow
B 1
Date: 2016-02-21 18:08:39
ivini-apps
Version: 21
Device: >TCL< >9006W< >9006W<
Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Map-controlled thermostat
Code: 002EF8
ABS / DSC / Brake:
Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC
:Brake wear: Front reach and wear limits / EEPROM error / unknown failure / Brake
pad wear Error: Front / Brake wear: Front reached wear limits
Code: 005F12
:unknown failure / Brake wear failure / Brake pad wear error: rear axle / Brake pads
rear brake pad wearCode: 005F13
unknown failure
Code: 005DEC
Steering angle sensor
Code: 005E49
:Wheel speed / Front brake pads misprint / Wheel speed sensors
Code: 005E5A
AFS Control signal implausible
Code: 005E52
Airbag:
Airbag
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Airbag B-pillar left/ B-Saeule links
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Airbag B-pillar right/ B-Saeule rechts
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Transmission Control:
Transmission / Getriebe GS 19
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Transmission / Getriebesteuerung
wear oil
Code: 0054C6
VGSG wheel Notlaufregelung activated. No DXC desired torque setting
Code: 0055C3
CAN message
Code: 0055C6
Gear switch / Gangschalter
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Instrument cluster:
Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument
ECU OK, no Fault Code
Central info display / Zentrales Display
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Light/Rain Control:

[Z3SpdDmn]

I'm trying to work through this right now, too... I pulled my motor off last night and pulled it apart. The worm gear appeared to be in tact, with sharp edges throughout (unlike the picture above, which shows the worm gear notably worn). The other gear (the one the worm interacts with) looked ok, I think, as long as those teeth are SUPPOSED to be concave. I couldn't quite tell if that was proper or it had been worn out that way. Most people seem to indicate that the worm gear is the one that wears out. So, I'm kindof at a loss...

2006 330xi 6MT with 160k miles

[Bitcoin Man]

ATC 300 Transfer Case Internal Parts and Operation.

The ATC 300 has a main shaft (there are oil passages within the shaft) from the input (transmission) to the output (rear drive shaft). The main shaft rotates on two ball-type bearings. Starting from the input side of the main shaft, we have needle roller bearings, then the sprocket assembly (sprocket and multi-plate clutch (mpc)), the clutch drum, and the oil suction pump.

The sprocket assembly is composed of a sprocket, needle bearings, 2 mpc actuator arms, the mpc pressure plate, mpc shims, mpc hub, 6 friction disks and 7 steel disks. The needle bearings allow the sprocket to rotate independently of the main shaft. The 2 clutch arms are separated by 5 steel balls. There are inclined grooves cut within the arms; when the arms are rotated apart (The 2 mpc arms rest on opposite sides of a cam. The rotation of the cam, causes the mpc arms to rotate apart. The set positioning motor has a small gear the rotates the gear on the cam, which, causes the mpc arms to rotate apart), the arms are pushed apart slightly; this separation of distance causes the upper clutch arm to push up against the mpc pressure plate, which clamps together the fiction and steel discs. The steel disks are splined to the clutch hub, which is part of the sprocket. The fiction disks are splined to the clutch drum; the drum is splined to the main shaft. Whenever the mpc is engaged, the torque is transmitted from the main shaft, to the mpc drum, to the mpc friction disks, to the mpc steel disks, to the mpc hub, and then to the sprocket – which causes the sprocket to rotate around the main shaft on the needle bearings. The mpc sprocket is connected to the intermediate sprocket, and then to the final output sprocket; which is connected to the front drive axle.

On top of the mpc drum, sits an oil suction pump, which has a suction tube to the lower transfer case house, where the oil sits. Rotation of the mpc drum, causes a disk to rotate within the oil pump, creating suction, which draws the oil to the oil pump and outwards to the mpc and other parts inside the transfer case. Sitting at the bottom of the transfer case is a magnet.

There are 3rd party suppliers that have all the parts needed to repair the ATC 300 transfer case. Parts that may fail or wear out include the 2 needle bearings that rest above and below the mpc arms and the friction disks. The main shaft ball bearings and output shaft (to front driveshaft) ball bearings may also wear out too. The input and two output oil seals may need replacing too, as well as the transmission engine mount. The transfer case can be sealed with Permatex Ultra Grey or compatible gasket maker.

There are 6 bolts that attach the transfer case to the automatic transmission. Two bolts on the driver’s, facing the front of the car. 2 bolts on top of the transfer case and 2 bolts on the passenger side, both facing the rear of the car. After the driveshaft has been removed from the transfer case, the transfer case can be lowered slightly to reach the top two bolts (actually, the front motors mounts are strong enough to support the engine, transmission and transfer case; however, it’s wisely to support the transmission with a jack. Once the bolts are removed, you can use a rubber hammer and pound on the transmission mount to help separate the transmission shaft from the transfer case (slightly lifting the transfer case without causing lift on the transmission with help in the removal too). The transfer case weights about 60-lbs. If you don’t have a transmission jack, I highly advise you to put a box with newspapers to cushion the an accidental fall of the transfer case. Also, I advise do not go cheap on the jack stands; I have 4 20-ton jack stands from harbor freights (Since these jack stands are high, the jacking procedure I use is jack up the front of the car on smaller jack stands, then jack up the rear of the car on the 20-ton jack stands, and then jack up the front of the car again, remove the smaller jack stands, and then replace with 20-ton stands).

[Moorea]

Hey - newbie here...
2008 BMW 335xi

We had the ABS/4x4 warnings as well as a light crunch upon starting the car. We took it in for a diagnostic at our shop, and he said that they aren't able to determine if just the motor needs to be replaced ($1,000) or the entire transfer case ($3,700). If we replace the motor and it doesn't work, we still have to pay that $1,000 plus the $3,700 for the new transfer case. That sounded like a crappy position to be in so I called our shop we used from back when we were in Chicago for a second opinion and he validated that advice. The Chicago shop also said that he usually replaces the motor first and there has only been one case where the entire transfer case needed to be replaced. The SF shop on the other hand, said since the entire motor is metal (whereas most other transfer cases have plastic parts) we probably need to replace the whole transfer case. Sounds like a mean lottery game to me.

Any advice as to which path we should pursue? I've done exhaustive research (tried the left to right cranking, unplugging and replugging the battery cables), and now my head is spinning. I'm leaning toward replacing the motor first, but I don't really know.

Any advice is appreciated!

------
Error Codes
5462 VTG: Fault, servomotor or coupling force too high
5463 VTG: Mechanism faulty
55C3 VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
5F3A DSC: Transfer case: internal
------

[Rockon]

So just bringing this back for a quick question.
Took mine apart and found worm gear looked pretty good and internal gear was Ok as well (slightly concave but like someone else had said - think that's how it's supposed to be).

I can spin the motor freely and I can spin the right angle gear head as well.

When the 2 go together, I can't spin it. Is this normal or is it my issue?

I'd like to bench test with +12 to see if motor spins the gear.

Anyone know which pins on the connector to check?

Thx