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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > How to EASILY adjust the rear KW coilovers



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      08-28-2011, 11:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MbahSurip View Post
Thanks for sharing.. I tried it and it worked on the rear left only. On the rear right, the black thing (it's clamped) still spinned with the perch. Any tip? should I put some wd40?

Thanks
Just maybe clamp it harder. You may try filing some ridges into the feet of the clamp to help it get a bite onto the perch. WD40 may help, but I'd be worried about creating a slippery surface for the clamp. Another suggestion that I always do is to first take a tooth brush and brush off the collar threads so the perch can move up and down easier.
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      08-29-2011, 08:25 PM   #24
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Good tips! I had the same issue with my st coilovers and passenger side rear wouldn't stop spinning. I had some old c clamp laying around and it helped but p o s broke. I ended up using this channel lock that I picked up last month when I was doing some home repairs. It works quite well but if your trying to go low it will get in the way about 4 or 5 threads to the bottom.

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      08-31-2011, 11:15 PM   #25
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I sprayed on a little WD40 so the threads wouldnt stick, wiped off the excess with a rag and was able to adjust the perches without the top spinning.

Didn't even need to clamp it!
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      09-27-2013, 07:39 AM   #26
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Hey guys. I have an even better solution so no tools (other than a spanner wrench) are ever required. A dab of JB Weld!

If you have already installed your springs like me only to realize the PITA to adjust them, do the following:

- Wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the black threaded carrier and the car. You may need to tap lightly a few times with a small hammer.
- This should create a small gap big enough to dab a bit of JB Weld. You don't need a ton. I used about the size of a dime.
- Using a piece or soda box cardboard, I only put it on the outward facing area I could get to which was basically 1/8 of the full carrier. (CAREFUL not to get any on the threads!!)
- Yank out the screwdriver and wipe off/smooth over any extra that squeezes out

Allow an hour to dry and never worry about clamps again!

NOTE: This, in no way, makes uninstall any harder. Since you are only using JB weld on an 1/8th of the full surface, they still easily pull out with wiggle.
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      10-21-2013, 01:26 AM   #27
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I have exactly the same problem KW v1 and when I try to adjust the rear springs, the purple and black part spin together.

Can someone explain to my how attaching a c-clamp will work? Won't it just also spin together with the black part?
Or do you attach one end of the clamp to the car's frame and the other to the black part?

thanks
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      11-10-2013, 11:38 PM   #28
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do you think the 3" clamp will fit if i hae it lowered to about 1 thread?
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      03-03-2014, 08:30 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket_science View Post
Hey guys. I have an even better solution so no tools (other than a spanner wrench) are ever required. A dab of JB Weld!

If you have already installed your springs like me only to realize the PITA to adjust them, do the following:

- Wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the black threaded carrier and the car. You may need to tap lightly a few times with a small hammer.
- This should create a small gap big enough to dab a bit of JB Weld. You don't need a ton. I used about the size of a dime.
- Using a piece or soda box cardboard, I only put it on the outward facing area I could get to which was basically 1/8 of the full carrier. (CAREFUL not to get any on the threads!!)
- Yank out the screwdriver and wipe off/smooth over any extra that squeezes out

Allow an hour to dry and never worry about clamps again!

NOTE: This, in no way, makes uninstall any harder. Since you are only using JB weld on an 1/8th of the full surface, they still easily pull out with wiggle.
Saving this post for later.
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      01-26-2015, 07:43 AM   #30
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This clamp method worked for me.

I would'nt say it was easy as the only clamp i could find was a little big. Made for a tight uncomfortable fit....but thats my fault.

Regardless it does work and it beats having to take the whole rear apart just to adjust height...
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      01-26-2015, 08:50 AM   #31
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What is this piece that everyone talks about slipping?

When going over this off ramp with a bump in the middle I've noticed that my rear tires do a quick nudge to the side when going over them. I have V3s though.
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      03-14-2015, 05:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket_science View Post
Hey guys. I have an even better solution so no tools (other than a spanner wrench) are ever required. A dab of JB Weld!

If you have already installed your springs like me only to realize the PITA to adjust them, do the following:

- Wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the black threaded carrier and the car. You may need to tap lightly a few times with a small hammer.
- This should create a small gap big enough to dab a bit of JB Weld. You don't need a ton. I used about the size of a dime.
- Using a piece or soda box cardboard, I only put it on the outward facing area I could get to which was basically 1/8 of the full carrier. (CAREFUL not to get any on the threads!!)
- Yank out the screwdriver and wipe off/smooth over any extra that squeezes out

Allow an hour to dry and never worry about clamps again!

NOTE: This, in no way, makes uninstall any harder. Since you are only using JB weld on an 1/8th of the full surface, they still easily pull out with wiggle.
Thanks for posting this. I just did this today. Here are some pictures.

Used 2 screwdrivers to wedge in. I found it worked much better with 2 so I didn't have to jam one in there so hard.


Here is the amount of space I was left to work with.


Mixed the JW Kwik Weld. Used about a dime size blob for each part.


Put it on top of the collar. And removed the screwdriver.


After the excess is wiped up. You can barely tell its there.


Done!
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      05-30-2015, 07:58 PM   #33
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wish I saw this thread before I attempted to do mine lol
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      06-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #34
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I just take bottom nut off shock, push control arm down, pop adjuster out and adjust. 2 mins per side max
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      06-27-2015, 10:51 AM   #35
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      07-12-2015, 10:09 PM   #36
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I'll have to use this method tomorrow, how long does the JB Weld take to dry up ?

My passenger side perch is stuck and won't go up but it does go down, any tips for getting it to move? I tried brake cleaner and wd40. The perch gaps are getting damaged and the wrench has a hard time holding onto them.
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      07-13-2015, 04:21 AM   #37
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Ah, so this is a common problem when adjusting V2's on our cars... I had that problem too on a 135i. What we did was put a spanner between the spring coils to create pressure on the black piece of shit in order to prevent it from spinning. It worked fine.
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      10-24-2015, 05:56 PM   #38
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Can someone confirm if this method works on our cars?



The poster seems to be inactive and rather vague

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=709408
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      10-25-2015, 01:40 AM   #39
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I'm starting to hear it doesn't work, what are suggestions to getting this to work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I just take bottom nut off shock, push control arm down, pop adjuster out and adjust. 2 mins per side max

Rob how exactly does this work? Does it actually take 2 minutes more? Does it effect camber, toe or any alignment specs? Any things to watch out for or things that can easily go wrong if I don't know what I'm doing?
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