[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by E9Slow

Thanks for that clarification, and you bring up a really interesting idea I never even thought of. I really don't think the valve cover itself is leaking; there is no oil buildup around any visible areas of the gasket, or around the block, besides just some residual grime from over the years, and me not getting around to degreasing the block yet, and where the obvious leak is, you can clearly see the oil path runs from under the plastic engine cover right where that valvetronic motor would be located, then ONTO the valve cover in a small channel, and then down the side, when it runs onto the clip that holds and O2 sensor wire, and then drips directly onto a cat, which is when it will smoke from contact. Now you've got me curious, I'm going to go pull off the plastic engine cover for now (needs a cleaning anyways) and see if the oil is obviously leaking from the valvetronic motor, and if so, replace that gasket only for now. I really appreciate that insight, because that could save me a good deal of money right now, and things are unfortunately very tight, so every $ counts.

Thanks for everyone's input so far! Keep posting on your findings, seems to help others too!

Okay, so I'm not sure if you are going to DIY the Valvetronic motor gasket. If you are, you need a 4MM Allen-head socket, E8 socket, and a BMW scan tool that can reset the Valvetronic adaptations to relearn the mechanical limits of the eccentric shaft (it's really just calibrating the Valvetronic motor).

[F22_Raptor]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so I'm not sure if you are going to DIY the Valvetronic motor gasket. If you are, you need a 4MM Allen-head socket, E8 socket, and a BMW scan tool that can reset the Valvetronic adaptations to relearn the mechanical limits of the eccentric shaft (it's really just calibrating the Valvetronic motor).

Is the BMW scan tool a necessity? I saw a video where you can recalibrate the valvetronic motor in the cluster.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by F22_Raptor

Is the BMW scan tool a necessity? I saw a video where you can recalibrate the valvetronic motor in the cluster.

Haven't seen the video so I can't comment. I used my scan tool. The procedure calls for a scan tool. The normal service functions available in the cluster do not have the routine to have the ECU relearn the mechanical limits of the Valvetronic motor.

[Three_thirty_I]

When you have replaced or refitted the Valvetronic motor, there is a basic calibration that the system does simply by inserting the key fob and turning the ignition on (foot off pedals). It will do this calibration only once it seems. After that, it is apparently fine, but you can then use the BMW scan tool to do a fine calibration, but from what I have read, this is not really necessary, but I have my doubts obviously. Important thing is that this basic calibration HAS to be done first! Reason for saying this, I had a new Valvetronic motor fitted (was incorrectly diagnosed problem I reckon), and the only reason why I had the garage fit it was because they had the diagnostics equipment to calibrated it etc. However, when I collected the car, it drove and felt horrible! The throttle behaviour was strange and jerky, and then when I gave it some beans up a long quiet hill, she wouldn't go over 6000 rpm or so! I returned home and after some reading up decided to see what would happen if I tried the basic calibration, and it worked. I could hear it cycled the end stops and it only did it the one time, meaning that this step was clearly skipped by the garage - they simply fitted the new part and went straight to the fine calibration part. After that, the car felt fine.

[chris7520]

06 330i all stock 206K 65% highway(automatic) 10% city SF (manual) and 25% mountain roads(manual). combined 26.5
Highway 32-34mpg on average. unless the AC is on then it all goes to sh*t

[stevesingo]

In the UK so on imperial gallons (4.546lt)

Running around town 27-28mpg
75mph M Way 38-39mpg
90mph M Way 32-33mpg

[Dan Bilzerian]

Originally Posted by stevesingo

In the UK so on imperial gallons (4.546lt)

Running around town 27-28mpg
75mph M Way 38-39mpg
90mph M Way 32-33mpg

There's no way you get 32-33 when you're doing 90 miles per hour lol That's crazy

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by Dan Bilzerian

There's no way you get 32-33 when you're doing 90 miles per hour lol That's crazy

I get close to that too.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Dan Bilzerian

There's no way you get 32-33 when you're doing 90 miles per hour lol That's crazy

UK imperial gallons are larger than American gallons...

[dizzzave]

I've got a 6MT x-drive wagon and I get around 22mpg in town and 25-30mpg on the interstate typically cruising around 75-80mph.

[stevesingo]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

UK imperial gallons are larger than American gallons...

Imp Gallon 4.546lt
US Gallon 3.785lt

4.546/3.785=1.201

32/1.2=26.7miles to US Gallon

[Dan Bilzerian]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

UK imperial gallons are larger than American gallons...

How much larger, maybe I shouldn't post so late at night too.

[Dan Bilzerian]

Originally Posted by stevesingo

Imp Gallon 4.546lt
US Gallon 3.785lt

4.546/3.785=1.201

32/1.2=26.7miles to US Gallon

Thank you!

[martin330]

My wife's 06 325xi AT w/ 156K miles gets 19 mpg city driving, my sharked 00 328Ci 5 spd (207K miles) w/ bolt on mods gets 23 mpg city.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Dan Bilzerian

There's no way you get 32-33 when you're doing 90 miles per hour lol That's crazy

It's not that crazy. These engines are very efficient when not pushed too hard. Steady cruising at 90mph yields over 30 mpg. Driving on I-95 between Daytona and Jax, with avg speed of 87 mph, yielded average consumption of 34 mpg.

[Dan Bilzerian]

Originally Posted by W37V

It's not that crazy. These engines are very efficient when not pushed too hard. Steady cruising at 90mph yields over 30 mpg. Driving on I-95 between Daytona and Jax, with avg speed of 87 mph, yielded average consumption of 34 mpg.

That's just a pretty high rpm to be getting that kind of mileage.

[stevesingo]

The N52 has a variable coolant temperature strategy dependant on load, this may indicate what the most efficient cruising speeds are.

The four modes are as follows:
• 112°C ECO mode
• 105°C Normal mode
• 95°C High mode
• 80°C High + mapped thermostat mode

It would be interesting to see what the maximum permissible speeds are whilst remaining in each mode.
On the open road, 87mph is 3000rpm, I wonder if this is the switching point from normal to high. Can't see Eco mode being active at that speed/load.
Obviously gradient will affect the load and therefore the strategy.

[hassmaschine]

it's based on load, time and RPM. If you are just cruising even at 80-90mph, it should stay in eco mode because the engine load will not be that high.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

it's based on load, time and RPM. If you are just cruising even at 80-90mph, it should stay in eco mode because the engine load will not be that high.

I have tried many times to monitor the cooling temp with INPA and a DashCommander and I have yet to catch the cooling temp in anything but normal mode. The only time I see slightly lower temps is when the heater or air conditioner is turned on. These seem to set a minimum water pump speed.

Has anyone actually caught their car holding a lower water temperature? Maybe you only trigger these temperature settings on a track. You would think that the Sport Button would issue a command for lower cooling temp.

[hassmaschine]

I think you would only see the lower temps under continuous high load. I haven't looked too closely to see exactly what activates them. I'd expect most of the time it would target 105c. And unless it's knocking - you don't actually make more power with a cooler engine, exactly the opposite.

have you logged the value with testo?

[M1Curious]

I have a '06 330i 6MT all stock. Driving: 75% freeway 25% town, gets approx. 27 mpg from tank to tank.

[stevesingo]

Just been on a 100mile round trip with the OBD hidden menu displaying engine temp and Carly App displaying rpm, coolant temp, torque and water pump speed.

Firstly, under no circumstances could I get the coolant to 112degC, even 6th gear, 1300rpm, 30Nm torque for a couple of miles.

In 6th, up to approx 60-65mph the ECU targets 105 degC, once above this speed the target appears to be 100degC. Once above 90mph, the target seems to drop by 1degC every 5mph. Made it to 110mph where the temp was 95-96degC.

A more accurate way of observing would be rpm against torque, but as I was on my own I chose to concentrate on driving.

Some observations from the carly when I could catch a glance. The pump speed seems to be the dominant temp regulating factor. On the carly app, the pump speed is indicated from 20-250 (no units specified but presumably rpm). When accelerating reasonably hard the pump runs up to 250 pretty quick and the temp plummets towards 80degC. Once at 80, the pump remains at 250(rpm) where I'm guessing the thermostat becomes dominant in the temperature regulation.

At 80mph, the pump speed is approx 130-140, torque is 100-120Nm.

Probably OT, but interesting all the same.