[jlindsey86]

In the process of removing the valve cover when I ran across this. What is the best way to extract these bolts? Would it be a bad idea to leave the broken bolt in and cut the new bolts so that they screw in and sit just above the broken ones? I would still torque them down to 7nm. If not, how do I get these guys out?

[hassmaschine]

remove the valve cover and try to get the nub out? Drill it out? (it's just aluminum)

I wouldn't leave it there. The torque is based on how many threads are engaged, shank length, etc.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

remove the valve cover and try to get the nub out? Drill it out? (it's just aluminum)

I wouldn't leave it there. The torque is based on how many threads are engaged, shank length, etc.

Buy an "easy out" tool and follow the instructions. Should be an easy extraction.

[sonofsun]

The one on the left still looks like it has some meat outside for you to grab with a good set of pliers. The one on the right looks bad and may need to be drilled out or easy out'd. If you take the valve cover out you will have more room to play with.

There are plenty of youtube videos showing you examples but remember this

Soak the bolt with plenty of penetrating lube to loosen the bolt.

1) Use a center punch to start the drill
2) Try to use a left hand drill (the one you would need to spin counterclockwise to drill the bit in)
3) Start with the smallest diameter and then go bigger (you wanna ensure you don't catch the threads of the body)
4) Turn the easy out extractor slowly in order to give yourself a good grip

If all this doesn't work use a 'rescue bit'. This is expensive at $50 a piece but will chew through any metal easy. If you try to drill it out make sure you cover the area around the bolt with plastic and some duct tape to prevent any metal shavings from falling into the engine. Also if you drill out the bolt you may need to catch all the left overs inside the thread. Some people use a tapping tool to do this and you can too.

This is a PITA job but take your time and be patient.

[matteblue3er]

Key is to use a left handed drill bit. Don't use a normal one. When the bit catches, it will drive the screw in deeper. With a left handed bit, if it catches, it will just spin the bolt out.

[jlindsey86]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will tackle removing the bolts as soon as I can get the cover off. I am having a time getting the ignition wiring harness out of the way for the valve cover to clear. Needless to say this has drug out far longer than I expected...
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1445440

[El Cheapo Loco]

I had one broken bolt when I did my vcg. They are at the front of the engine so it's easy to get them out. I only used a small pick (with a sharp tip) to spin it out, there was no friction on the bolt at all. No need to use reverse bit or extractor.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by jlindsey86

In the process of removing the valve cover when I ran across this. What is the best way to extract these bolts? Would it be a bad idea to leave the broken bolt in and cut the new bolts so that they screw in and sit just above the broken ones? I would still torque them down to 7nm. If not, how do I get these guys out?

Dude thats the same issue I have had for years. So far I ve seen 2 broken bolts. Not sure If more. I wonder if only replacing these 2 bolts will stop my leak? I will wash off engine bay and take a close look and see where the leak is coming from I guess?

If I can avoid replacing the VCG will be ideal but I doubt it

Im planning to buy these...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E60-E90...53.m1438.l2649

[El Cheapo Loco]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I wonder if only replacing these 2 bolts will stop my leak?

If I can avoid replacing the VCG will be ideal but I doubt it

Im planning to buy these...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E60-E90...53.m1438.l2649

My broken bolt was at the front of the engine but I also have oil leak into cylinder #4 spark plug well. So replacing the broken bolt would not have fixed the oil leak. There is really no avoiding it.

And besides that kit, you should also replace the VVT motor gasket, eccentric shaft sensor and gasket. It hurts that the eccentric shaft sensor costs $180 but it would suck even more if it goes 200 miles after you're done with the vcg.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by El Cheapo Loco

My broken bolt was at the front of the engine but I also have oil leak into cylinder #4 spark plug well. So replacing the broken bolt would not have fixed the oil leak. There is really no avoiding it.

And besides that kit, you should also replace the VVT motor gasket, eccentric shaft sensor and gasket. It hurts that the eccentric shaft sensor costs $180 but it would suck even more if it goes 200 miles after you're done with the vcg.

Yeah man I totally agree with you. Last month when I replaced my coils and plugs, one plug thread was full of oil due to a bad cylinder gasket i am sure. Thanks for letting me know. I will add that to my shopping list.

[jlindsey86]

Originally Posted by El Cheapo Loco

I had one broken bolt when I did my vcg. They are at the front of the engine so it's easy to get them out. I only used a small pick (with a sharp tip) to spin it out, there was no friction on the bolt at all. No need to use reverse bit or extractor.

This worked perfectly, thanks!