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      08-02-2013, 03:22 PM   #45
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I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
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      08-02-2013, 03:29 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32 View Post
I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
It's pad transfer. The only thing you can do is brake ducts for cooling.
I used to get a ton of pad transfer from Carbotechs.

On our race car we use Pagid PS29. It's an endurance pad with great feel and lasts forever (we could have run a full 12 hours without changing pads on a 3,300lb race car). No pad transfer or vibrations due to brakes at all.
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      08-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #47
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Agreed. Pad transfer... Either more cooling needed as mentioned, or hotter pads.
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      08-03-2013, 01:40 AM   #48
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thanks I'll look into better cooling. Maybe cut out a bigger part of the fender liner so the m3 vent can feed more air to the brakes.
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      08-03-2013, 02:40 AM   #49
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Don't bother with the fender vent... Instead route the air using brake duct hose and build a proper backing plate duct behind the rotor hat. Those fender well vents do nothing at all given their location.
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      08-05-2013, 07:56 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Don't bother with the fender vent... Instead route the air using brake duct hose and build a proper backing plate duct behind the rotor hat. Those fender well vents do nothing at all given their location.
+1
Check out CJ421 brake cooling duct installation. Proper cooling will make a huge difference. We're running the same thing on our race car.
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      08-07-2013, 11:49 PM   #51
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oh wow will do. thanks for the advice.
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      08-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro
Agreed. Pad transfer... Either more cooling needed as mentioned, or hotter pads.
Pfc08 have high heat tolerance.
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      08-09-2013, 10:12 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32
I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
Can you describe in specifics how u bedded the pads?
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      08-09-2013, 11:48 AM   #54
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My last bedding procedure was to start with 40 mph-10 and 30 mph-10 moderate stops to warm up the pads, then did a bunch of higher speed fast stops from 70-30ish then a few really hard stops from 50-10ish then drove back home with a few moderate 30-10 stops along the way. I basically remember reading doing a few moderate, a few really hard, then end with moderate.

I would love your advice because I'm going to be swapping pads next week on Wed for a track day on Thursday at Blackhawk Farms. I posted in the regional forum but if you guys are welcome to join the track day I am going to if you're in the area. My friend who is the president of ChicagoRally is renting out the entire track and the private event is $50 for the day.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874243
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      08-09-2013, 12:32 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Pfc08 have high heat tolerance.
was making a general statement of what variables one can play with in these circumstances
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      08-09-2013, 12:44 PM   #56
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I've always found the MOST effective way to bed in a set of pads for track use, is to sacrifice your first session, drive at about 6/10th and ramp up your braking as you go. Just be VERY careful the first 2-3 stops, especially with track pads.

They'll be good to go and vibration free for the remaining sessions.
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      08-09-2013, 02:37 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32
My last bedding procedure was to start with 40 mph-10 and 30 mph-10 moderate stops to warm up the pads, then did a bunch of higher speed fast stops from 70-30ish then a few really hard stops from 50-10ish then drove back home with a few moderate 30-10 stops along the way. I basically remember reading doing a few moderate, a few really hard, then end with moderate.

I would love your advice because I'm going to be swapping pads next week on Wed for a track day on Thursday at Blackhawk Farms. I posted in the regional forum but if you guys are welcome to join the track day I am going to if you're in the area. My friend who is the president of ChicagoRally is renting out the entire track and the private event is $50 for the day.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874243
Well. I had issues with improper bed in and judder but the advice ive recieved is all over the map. Most sensible ive heard is 3x 10 stops from 90-10 with long cool
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      08-09-2013, 02:40 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK
I've always found the MOST effective way to bed in a set of pads for track use, is to sacrifice your first session, drive at about 6/10th and ramp up your braking as you go. Just be VERY careful the first 2-3 stops, especially with track pads.

They'll be good to go and vibration free for the remaining sessions.
I tried this with the pfc08 an they became intolerable after a few laps. I think the long hard stops w cooling is key for them
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      08-13-2013, 01:47 PM   #59
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I use StopTech's Power Slot rotors and Street Performance Pads.

I've had really consistent performance on track, and have used them for the past 4-5 years. They're a lot lower dusting then the OEM pads, but I guess almost any alternative would be compared to OEM hehe. Good fit, no rattles or squeaks.

The best part is the price. If you purchase from Amazon, set of pads are only $104 (fronts $58, rears $45), and rotors are $80-90. So full set for $500 (vs $700+ when I used to purchase from the vendors here).

Super great value for performance if cost is a major factor.
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      09-22-2014, 01:24 PM   #60
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This thread was a good read, I'll be getting some proper track pads soon.
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      04-24-2017, 11:46 AM   #61
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Switched from Cool Carbons to PFC08 on centric blanks and ATE type 200 for Buttonwillow this past weekend. Had severe judder from pad transfer I assume. Right brake duct area occupied with ducting for ER sport oil cooler. Followed bed-in procdures weekend prior then DD before track event. Welcome brake ducting suggestions.
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      04-24-2017, 12:48 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minaret View Post
Switched from Cool Carbons to PFC08 on centric blanks and ATE type 200 for Buttonwillow this past weekend. Had severe judder from pad transfer I assume. Right brake duct area occupied with ducting for ER sport oil cooler. Followed bed-in procdures weekend prior then DD before track event. Welcome brake ducting suggestions.
Something similar to this:http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316897
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      05-01-2017, 08:33 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minaret View Post
Switched from Cool Carbons to PFC08 on centric blanks and ATE type 200 for Buttonwillow this past weekend. Had severe judder from pad transfer I assume. Right brake duct area occupied with ducting for ER sport oil cooler. Followed bed-in procures weekend prior then DD before track event. Welcome brake ducting suggestions.
Pad-transfer is a bit of a myth.

Super heat your brakes on the street and transfer a nice layer of pad material onto the rotor. Then drive around the block a few times normally. You'll notice that nice layer of brake pad you just transferred to the rotor face is now wiped off. The rotor will be clean and all pad material will be gone.

That pad transfer helps adhesion on track, but it will actually cause brake judder if it's not getting removed from the face of the rotor evenly. A few days of daily driving and the rotor face should be nice and clean again.

"Break-in" procedures with new pads are more for wearing off the exterior coating on the pad that they sometimes come shipped with. A track pad like a pcf-08 will almost instantly scrub off any pad material left behind by your old pads. Transferring a layer of PCF-08 material onto the rotor would require heating them up with something like 10x back0to-back 130-20mph stops... something almost impossible to do on the street.
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      05-02-2017, 08:37 PM   #64
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Thanks bNks334. Due to time constraints, drove daily on those pads the week prior to the track defeating the process, and I didn't sacrifice my first session as the Hack suggested. Still going to improve brake cooling; its non-existent on the right (ER sport oil cooler).
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      05-02-2017, 09:08 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minaret View Post
Thanks bNks334. Due to time constraints, drove daily on those pads the week prior to the track defeating the process, and I didn't sacrifice my first session as the Hack suggested. Still going to improve brake cooling; its non-existent on the right (ER sport oil cooler).
Have you pulled your heat shields back? Bend them all the way until they touch the control arm at full lock. That alone helps a great deal in scooping air to the rotor.

Brake ducts are definetly ideal with a track pad. Track pads will generate a lot more heat which a lot of people don't realize. Yes they handle heat well, but that greater braking coefficient also produces more of it. Hence the need for ducts and high temp brake fluid.
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      05-04-2017, 09:58 AM   #66
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Are the PFC 08 the go to pad now that it looks like the PFC 01 has been discontinued?

Also has anyone tried the PFC 011 which supposedly is the next generation PFC 01?

Last, what is the proper brake in procedure for these pads?

Thanks
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