[zigsman]

I am working on a DIY write-up on this. I'll get it posted as soon as I get it completed.

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by zigsman

I am working on a DIY write-up on this. I'll get it posted as soon as I get it completed.

I did not intend on doing a DIY write-up on this when I completed the job, so I did not take anywhere near enough photos. However, after thinking about it...it is really simple and a DIY really isn't necessary. Just perform these tasks in this order:

#1 DIY Task for Transmission service (dissassembly)
#2 PDF for Mechatronics replacement (dissassembly)

#3 Once you have the Mechatronics on your bench, separate the big black plastic (TCM) from the valve body (there are several bolts).

#4 Remove the metal black retaining plate from the solenoids (very thin plate at base of solenoids and mechatronics).

#5 Twist and pull every solenoid straight out (replace one at a time so that you don't get the colors out of order).

#6 Reassemble in reverse order and torque according to the specs in the PDF. Complete Mechatronics replacement task (PDF) and sealing sleeve adapter task.

#7 Complete transmission service task.


If anyone needs any help, feel free to ask, I'm normally pretty quick to respond. ( I really wish I had taken good photos for a DIY ) ( DOH! )

[iturbo_bmw]

god damn it! I have this issue too..i didn't it was a issue and thought it was normal till i saw this thread...one more thing to add to my list i guess

I have the alpina flash..will this still solve my issue since i have the alpina flash??

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by e92_bmw

god damn it! I have this issue too..i didn't it was a issue and thought it was normal till i saw this thread...one more thing to add to my list i guess

I have the alpina flash..will this still solve my issue since i have the alpina flash??

Did your car have the hard shift before the Alpina flash or did it develop immediately after the flash? My car is all stock, so there was nothing that could have interfered with the normal operation of the car. With a flash, I can't say for sure...unless you had this shifting problem before the flash. If the problem existed before the flash, then this will fix your issue. If the hard shift developed sometime after the flash, this will probably fix the problem. If your hard shift started immediately after the flash, then, the flash might be your problem. I'd have to troubleshoot it myself to know for sure.

Are you able to temporarily disable the flash to see if the hard shift is still there?

I also see you drive an '09...is it still under warranty? If so, INSIST the dealer replace the solenoids in the Mechatronics. It will be an uphill battle, but worth the fight.

[iturbo_bmw]

Originally Posted by zigsman

Did your car have the hard shift before the Alpina flash or did it develop immediately after the flash? My car is all stock, so there was nothing that could have interfered with the normal operation of the car. With a flash, I can't say for sure...unless you had this shifting problem before the flash. If the problem existed before the flash, then this will fix your issue. If the hard shift developed sometime after the flash, this will probably fix the problem. If your hard shift started immediately after the flash, then, the flash might be your problem. I'd have to troubleshoot it myself to know for sure.

Are you able to temporarily disable the flash to see if the hard shift is still there?

I also see you drive an '09...is it still under warranty? If so, INSIST the dealer replace the solenoids in the Mechatronics. It will be an uphill battle, but worth the fight.

Damn I don't remember when it started.. I just accepted it as normal so i didn't pay too much attention to it. but i think it has been more noticeable recently since the flash. I guess I need to pay more attention and find out when/how often my car does that. I'm all out of warranty and I would have to learn how to code/set up the programs in order to flash back to stock cause I ain't paying for it again

[GoRomeo]

Yeah me too. I ve experience this " jolt bump" only at times and always thought I was not pressing the brake pedal strong enough...

I guess I know the fix for this issue which is the replacement of the solenoids... oh boy...

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Yeah me too. I ve experience this " jolt bump" only at times and always thought I was not pressing the brake pedal strong enough...

I guess I know the fix for this issue which is the replacement of the solenoids... oh boy...

Take a trip out to Phoenix, your close enough! I'll get it done for you in a few hours.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by zigsman

Take a trip out to Phoenix, your close enough! I'll get it done for you in a few hours.

Thanks buddy. I ll ask a friend whos a BMW tech see what he has to say about it. Cheers ;-)

[betaruce]

i just bought a used 2006 e90 335 from BMW (the mileage is only ~28000km)
and yes like many of you I notice the problem in testdrive but just thought it's my braking technique

initially it is quite obvious in D mode and happen quite often. it does not happen if I drive slowly in carpark or traffic jam.
so I bring it back to BMW last week and they do something about the computer

now not much jolt in D mode, but in DS mode it still happen sometimes, usually more obvious when I drive at moderate speed (e.g. ~80kmh) then apply slightly hard brake to a stop

any suggestion? ask BMW to change solenoid?

and btw, when I check my car with INPA, it never have any error codes. Does that mean anything?

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by betaruce

i just bought a used 2006 e90 335 from BMW (the mileage is only ~28000km)
and yes like many of you I notice the problem in testdrive but just thought it's my braking technique

initially it is quite obvious in D mode and happen quite often. it does not happen if I drive slowly in carpark or traffic jam.
so I bring it back to BMW last week and they do something about the computer

now not much jolt in D mode, but in DS mode it still happen sometimes, usually more obvious when I drive at moderate speed (e.g. ~80kmh) then apply slightly hard brake to a stop

any suggestion? ask BMW to change solenoid?

and btw, when I check my car with INPA, it never have any error codes. Does that mean anything?

If it's bad solenoids, there will not be an error code...there never was one for mine. I would ask BMW to change the solenoids for you. An update to the software will not fix the problem (if you have a bad solenoid). I would push them to do it for free if you purchased the car with the problem...

[chromisdesigns]

Question -- does anyone know if leaving this problem unfixed can / will damage the transmission?

Our 2008 sedan with about 65000 miles just started doing this once in a while. So far, it just feels like an abrupt shift and is tolerable. I don't think SWMBO has even noticed it yet, or else she hasn't said anything.

I was planning to do a fluid change around 80K miles -- any thoughts on just letting it go until then? Is it likely to get so bad we can't ignore it anymore?

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by chromisdesigns

Question -- does anyone know if leaving this problem unfixed can / will damage the transmission?

Our 2008 sedan with about 65000 miles just started doing this once in a while. So far, it just feels like an abrupt shift and is tolerable. I don't think SWMBO has even noticed it yet, or else she hasn't said anything.

I was planning to do a fluid change around 80K miles -- any thoughts on just letting it go until then? Is it likely to get so bad we can't ignore it anymore?

I don't believe it will damage your transmission if left alone, but it sure will make for an uncomfortable ride!

[betaruce]

Originally Posted by zigsman

I don't believe it will damage your transmission if left alone, but it sure will make for an uncomfortable ride!

thanks zigsman for your contribution to this thread

back to the basic, actually what exactly is happening inside the gearbox causing the jolt? what happen to the solenoid? why some people can fix it with simply computer reset? why it does not damage the transmission?

thanks. would like to know more about it

---

on a side note, i hate this sort of "relatively minor problem"
it doesn't happen all the time, and the BMW mechanics sometimes don't know what we are talking about

is there an official BMW document about this problem? so I may show the BMW mechanics

[iturbo_bmw]

After doing some observations and keeping on eye out, it looks like this only happens to me in S mode with the alpina flash. barely feel it in D and never really in M mode. I'll stay put now since i dont use S mode that often i guess and maybe replace in the future if it isn't bad for your transmission to not fix it asap

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by zigsman

If it's bad solenoids, there will not be an error code...there never was one for mine. I would ask BMW to change the solenoids for you. An update to the software will not fix the problem (if you have a bad solenoid). I would push them to do it for free if you purchased the car with the problem...

Thanks for the info zigsman,

Mine can barely feel it and only at times if any. What about changing the tranny fluid only? I am at 110k miles. I want to change tranny fluid as preventive maint. My BMW tech friend is willing to change fluid he said...

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by betaruce

thanks zigsman for your contribution to this thread

back to the basic, actually what exactly is happening inside the gearbox causing the jolt? what happen to the solenoid? why some people can fix it with simply computer reset? why it does not damage the transmission?

thanks. would like to know more about it

---

on a side note, i hate this sort of "relatively minor problem"
it doesn't happen all the time, and the BMW mechanics sometimes don't know what we are talking about

is there an official BMW document about this problem? so I may show the BMW mechanics

The transmission shifting is all controlled by the computer, which "learns" how you dive and adapts to the most effective shifting pattern for you. When it is time to shift, the solenoid controls the fluid pressure which engages the clutches and gears and decides how "fast" the transmission changes from one gear to the next. It will shift very fast for an aggressive driver and slower for a more gentle driver. When the solenoid starts to fail, it begins to "hang". The computer is telling it to shift, but the solenoid is getting stuck...then, it breaks loose and BANG!, the car shifts really fast, and roughly.

Sometimes an adaption reset will work if it is simply an issue with an aggressive shift pattern rather than a faulty solenoid. Even with a faulty solenoid, the reset may work for a little while because it is set back to factory defaults, which is different from what it had adapted to. Once the transmission relearns your style, the problem will come back if the solenoid is faulty.

As far as damaging the transmission, again, I am not positive whether or not it will cause damage. I am leaning more on the side of it will not, as the transmission is still shifting, just at the wrong time.

There is no documentation relevant to this issue that I have found because BMW has, to date, been unable to fix this problem! The only documentation you will find will instruct the dealer to update the software and reset the adaptations. The other solutions I have found with research are: transmission replaced, or mechatronics replaced, both of which costs thousands of dollars. The problem is, the mechanics at the dealers only know how to hook a computer up to your car, so if there is no error code, they say there is no problem. They aren't real mechanics and don't understand the intricate workings of the vehicle. In order to solve a problem, you must understand how the machine is supposed to work and how it is actually working. I guess it takes an engineer's mindset to figure this stuff out!

The logical steps to take in order are:

1. Reset adaptations
2. Update software
3. Complete transmission service
4. Replace transmission seal adapter and mechatronics seal with solenoid replacement

I caution you though...this is an expensive process if you follow that order. If you are going to do the work yourself, I would suggest starting with number 4 and complete number 1 and 3 at the same time. If you are having a shop do the work and you are doing it in this order, you will be charged twice for the transmission service because everything must be drained out to replace the solenoids.

I would be more than happy to help you out if you were in the Phoenix area. I wish you luck.

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Thanks for the info zigsman,

Mine can barely feel it and only at times if any. What about changing the tranny fluid only? I am at 110k miles. I want to change tranny fluid as preventive maint. My BMW tech friend is willing to change fluid he said...

ZF (manufacturer) recommends a transmission service every 100k, it is a good idea. BMW says it's "lifetime" because they do not want to pay for the service under warranty. I do what the manufacturer says, not what BMW says.

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by e92_bmw

After doing some observations and keeping on eye out, it looks like this only happens to me in S mode with the alpina flash. barely feel it in D and never really in M mode. I'll stay put now since i dont use S mode that often i guess and maybe replace in the future if it isn't bad for your transmission to not fix it asap

This is not a "cheap" fix...it's going to cost around $800 including the transmission service costs (if you do the work yourself), so, I would not do this unless it is really driving you crazy OR you don't mind spending the money. If I were in your shoes and it wasn't that bad, I wouldn't worry about it either.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by zigsman

ZF (manufacturer) recommends a transmission service every 100k, it is a good idea. BMW says it's "lifetime" because they do not want to pay for the service under warranty. I do what the manufacturer says, not what BMW says.

Cool Thanks again for the info.

[Supreme214]

my car also does this......mine also makes noise from torque converter area when gear on neutral or AC on. will the solenoid covered under warranty?

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by JinLee09

my car also does this......mine also makes noise from torque converter area when gear on neutral or AC on. will the solenoid covered under warranty?

Your best bet is to contact your local dealer to find out if you vehicle is still under warranty and whether or not they will replace solenoids under warranty. If you are hearing noises from your torque converter, the solenoids may not be your issue anyway.

[betaruce]

Originally Posted by zigsman

The transmission shifting is all controlled by the computer, which "learns" how you dive and adapts to the most effective shifting pattern for you. When it is time to shift, the solenoid controls the fluid pressure which engages the clutches and gears and decides how "fast" the transmission changes from one gear to the next. It will shift very fast for an aggressive driver and slower for a more gentle driver. When the solenoid starts to fail, it begins to "hang". The computer is telling it to shift, but the solenoid is getting stuck...then, it breaks loose and BANG!, the car shifts really fast, and roughly.

Sometimes an adaption reset will work if it is simply an issue with an aggressive shift pattern rather than a faulty solenoid. Even with a faulty solenoid, the reset may work for a little while because it is set back to factory defaults, which is different from what it had adapted to. Once the transmission relearns your style, the problem will come back if the solenoid is faulty.

As far as damaging the transmission, again, I am not positive whether or not it will cause damage. I am leaning more on the side of it will not, as the transmission is still shifting, just at the wrong time.

There is no documentation relevant to this issue that I have found because BMW has, to date, been unable to fix this problem! The only documentation you will find will instruct the dealer to update the software and reset the adaptations. The other solutions I have found with research are: transmission replaced, or mechatronics replaced, both of which costs thousands of dollars. The problem is, the mechanics at the dealers only know how to hook a computer up to your car, so if there is no error code, they say there is no problem. They aren't real mechanics and don't understand the intricate workings of the vehicle. In order to solve a problem, you must understand how the machine is supposed to work and how it is actually working. I guess it takes an engineer's mindset to figure this stuff out!

The logical steps to take in order are:

1. Reset adaptations
2. Update software
3. Complete transmission service
4. Replace transmission seal adapter and mechatronics seal with solenoid replacement

I caution you though...this is an expensive process if you follow that order. If you are going to do the work yourself, I would suggest starting with number 4 and complete number 1 and 3 at the same time. If you are having a shop do the work and you are doing it in this order, you will be charged twice for the transmission service because everything must be drained out to replace the solenoids.

I would be more than happy to help you out if you were in the Phoenix area. I wish you luck.

thanks zigsman!! very useful and detailed explanation!!!

I will be meeting the BMW mechanics tomorrow as they think the DS mode has no issue while I think there is still residual jolt (last time it is very obvious in D mode and it does improve after they computer reset). since I buy it as a used car and BMW only offer 1 month warranty, which will be expiring within 1-2 weeks, I just hope they can fix it completely.......


and btw, can you please enlighten us about how do you do the computer reset part? can it be done with INPA?