[tc535i]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I have one, you can use it at my garage. It's a turbo tuners must have!

Appreciate the offer, I'll definitely take you up in a couple weeks when my work deadline's past!

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by tc535i

Appreciate the offer, I'll definitely take you up in a couple weeks when my work deadline's past!

Cool. Van Nuys is where my garage is.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

Not new info at all, it's just that nobody shares and helps each other. Part #4 in this pic. This is the diagram for an 07 E92 335 , so I assume it's accurate to 2012. BMW part#34336765316

Sweet, I can't wait to try this on my '07 w/ 107k miles!

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Sweet, I can't wait to try this on my '07 w/ 107k miles!

I have 139,000 and they need to be adjusted unfortunately if you drive like a maniac. One of the guys who posted 4th or 5th is right....sometimes a few turns on the actuator Rod is all you need. Problem is, the adjustment is necessary in the first place because the wastegate pivot is worn and needs to be re-sleeved. There should be no other shim or play other than the movement of swing it's meant to articulate. Rod adjustment is just a few more minutes added to the game clock. I would just have the pivot repaired by someone familiar with Mitsubishi TD03's. Cheaper than new or refurbished turbos.

[JamesM3M5]

So I had 82k miles on mine, just outside the BMW warranty. During a track event at VIR in April (so not very hot outside), I would get low boost codes and half-engine light. The WG shaft was binding and not shutting the WG all the way once the turbos got good and hot after about 2 laps. They also howled when driving away cold. There was no turbine or compressor damage that I could see, no shaft play, and no oil issues, just the WG shaft. I had already de-rattled the WGs by adjusting them in the car at around 62k miles.

New turbos (thank you, extended warranty!) took care of the howl, and the next track event I did a couple months later went off without a single code or issue. I didn't want to bother with just getting WG shafts fixed.

[Jklad]

Ok, so i purchased a new #4 Gasket and the #8 hose it goes into, along with a #9 hose (the tabs on mine are broke so might as well). After searching in your other post that you referenced, you show a picture of a clogged 'check valve' which the (broken) hose goes into - I cannot locate this check valve - is the check valve built into the #8 hose, or is it a seperate part?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I don't think the picture went through first time.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Ok, so i purchased a new #4 Gasket and the #8 hose it goes into, along with a #9 hose (the tabs on mine are broke so might as well). After searching in your other post that you referenced, you show a picture of a clogged 'check valve' which the (broken) hose goes into - I cannot locate this check valve - is the check valve built into the #8 hose, or is it a seperate part?

Thanks!

Everything I've found info wise regarding this says the check valve is in #8.

[Scrippy]

Take these two measurements. They should yield the same vacuum retention with the motor off. With engine running meter like pic #1 after turning motor off. Then meter like pic #2 then turn motor off. You should lose no vacuum with engine off. Mine leaked on pic#2. Pic #1 takes brake booster out of the equation. I lost no vacuum when I turned motor off. But when I measured pic#2 I lost vacuum 1"HG per 3 seconds. This tells me my grommet and or piping is leaking. Didn't even have to remove anything.