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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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09-15-2008, 10:39 AM | #617 |
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I'm looking into buying a glaze since I do not have a PC. Which is better and easier to use? Meguiar's number 7 or Vanilla Moose glaze? Or what is your recommendation for my situation?
I was also thinking about buying some Natty Boys too so ultimately, I just want to use a filler then wax. Is this even possible? Please let me know. Thanks!!
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09-17-2008, 12:18 PM | #618 | |
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I know a lot of detailers prefer to use ClearKote Red Moose Glaze under a wax though. I've used RMG under several waxes with good luck, the depth and gloss looks great. RMG is more on the oily side, which in the looks department really helps enhance the finish, however, I find it doesn't seem to fill much. It also is a very easy product to work with. I haven't used Meguiar's #7, so I cannot comment on that product, but I'd venture to guess it may fill more imperfections than the ClearKote glazes. I think you'd have good luck with a glaze and Natty's Blue combo. Be sure to keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out. George |
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09-17-2008, 05:29 PM | #619 |
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George,
It's been said numerous times in some 29 pages of this thread, but, I think it's great that you've made yourself available on the forum to answer questions and offer your assistance. That being said.. I've ordered a bunch of goodies from you to get started this weekend. I have no prior experience with a buffing tool other than a 20 dollar special from Autozone. Better then using my hand...barely. I've got the flex, SIP, 106FF, FTG & FMJ coming. My first test vehicle is my fiance's Metallic Black 2006 Civic followed by my Black Sapphire Metallic 335. Both vehicles have swirl marks from previous improper washing/drying and a few clearcoat scratches which appear white to the eye but cannot feel them (most of them) by touch. Based off of everything I have gathered here, this is the order I am going to do this in. Recommendations/criticism etc. throw it at me. I want to make sure I do it right the first time. - Proper Wash/Blow Dry - Fine Clay - 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water mix wipe down - tape off all exterior trim, lights etc. - Flex / Orange Pad with SIP on the entire car (or should I just do the areas that need the attention of the Orange/SIP combo such as areas with CC scratches) - Flex / White Pad with 106FF on the entire car. - 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water wipe down. - Flex / White Pad with FTG (is there a cure time?) - Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ (let cure 24 hours) - Wipe down with some type of quick detailer for dust etc. - Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ. Note about washing - I live in an apartment so I have no water supply / hose. I use a coin-op car wash about a half mile down the street. That's the best I can do right now. I usually bucket wash early in the morning before the bucket nazi's arrive. In the future is it ok for me to maintain with CG's Waterless Carwash and a really plush Microfiber Towel? What are my limits to the amount of contaminates I can remove with the Waterless? ie dirty residue that dries down the sides of a car after driving in the rain. Thanks in advance! GP335i |
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09-18-2008, 09:49 AM | #620 | |
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It looks like you did some research before taking the plunge because your process is spot on for what you purchased. If neither car has been properly polished in the past, I'd recommend that you use the SIP on the entire car, rather than spot treating certain areas. After completing a thorough polishing session, then next time around you may want to just spot treat certain areas. There is no cure time for the glaze, so after it's been removed, you can go right to applying your first coat of Menzerna FMJ. Regarding washing your car, CG ONE Waterless Wash would be good up to a little dirtier than a light dusting on your car. If you have too much contamination on the paint, then you risk marring the finish. When your paint is really contaminated, I'd look into some Optimum No Rinse, which requires 2 buckets of water, but no need for a water supply. The more you stay on top of maintaining your vehicle, the more likely CG ONE would do the trick for you. Thanks again for all of your support, be sure to keep us posted about your results! Take some pictures if you can. Enjoy, George |
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09-20-2008, 12:47 PM | #621 |
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Any ideas how to remove a gas stain from a white car? I used clay bar, no help. I used a polishing compound, it succesfully remove the stain from the mteal body work, but it was not able to remove the stain from the painted white bumper.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
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09-21-2008, 12:59 PM | #622 |
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Hello All ..I Just bought my first BMW and First Jet Black car.. I love the color and would like the basic deal on maintaning this daily driver, garaged car. One thing I worried about is the heated garage and the effects from the Salt on our roads.
I have had a green vw and s<the paint was great after 5 years. Are there differences in maintaining a Jet Black. I usually wash applying almost no pressure using a lambs wool and dry with a chamois. When I waxed I used various brands mothers etc and applied light coats in circle motion ( maybe not recommeded) and removed using almost no pressure.. and the car looked nice no swirls...still have the old pics.. As this is a daily driver is it better to wait towards then end of a week or spray down the vehicle every day to remove the salt, road dirt. Do you recommend the power washer. Do jet black need to be washed using no spray head and only the natural flow from the hose. I have seen this in car washed is there a reason.. I may have asked questions already answered, however in Montreal Canada, our winters are really bad and would need tips on regular maintenance. |
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09-21-2008, 06:38 PM | #623 | |
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Drives: E92 M3
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Location: Montreal, QC
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08 E92 M3/Melbourne Red/6MT/Exec Pack/MDrive/EDC/PDC/19" 220M
Mods: VRS Front Lip, HID Angels, KW V3, Stoptech BBK, SS lines, 18" TE37SL, Bastuck Exhaust, MS Air Filter, OEM Aluminum Padels, LED Interior Light 07 E92 328i/Jet Black/Cream Beige Leather/Premium/Step/Heated Seats...check garage! |
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09-23-2008, 08:21 AM | #624 | ||
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Properly caring for a Jet Black car is no different than caring for another colored vehicle, the difference is when swirls and other imperfections appear on the paint they are much more visible on black than other colors. For winter months, I'd advise applying a layer (preferably multiple layers spaced 24 hours apart) of sealant, which will be your most durable source of protection. Most sealants will give you between 3 - 6 months of protection before needing another application. After you've applied your sealant, you can opt to apply a coat(s) of wax for increased depth and gloss as well as another barrier of protection. Regarding pressure washing, it's ok assuming you are using a safe PSI. If you use TOO much pressure, then it's easy to add imperfections or worse damage your paint. With a Jet Black car, it's very important you learn the proper washing and drying techniques. The washing and drying step is where 70% or more of imperfections come from. Here's a link to our how-to guide on properly washing and drying. If you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. George |
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09-28-2008, 07:52 PM | #625 |
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George,
Just wanted to say thanks for your tips about my previous questions re: water spots, worked great. Also, the products from your store were very well put together and of high quality. Now for my question. I clayed my car, then polished with klasse AIO with a light cutting pad (orange), then sealed with the klasse HGSG last weekend. This wekeend, I sealed it again. There seems to be a very slight haze/splotchiness to the finish. I am wondering if this is due to the fact that my car gets condensation in the evening (maybe not a full cure?). Overall it looks great and I am probably nit-picking, but I want to get this thing looking perfect. One other thing I noticed was that the when putting on the polish with the PC and the pad, it wouldn't "powder up". Should I just run over it with the PC for a longer amt of time? In the end it still came off with a MF towel and looked damn shiny. Thanks in advance! ~Ryan |
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09-28-2008, 11:47 PM | #627 | |
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Kidding
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Special Thanks to AU335 |
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09-29-2008, 12:22 AM | #628 |
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Drives: E92 M3
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Location: Montreal, QC
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08 E92 M3/Melbourne Red/6MT/Exec Pack/MDrive/EDC/PDC/19" 220M
Mods: VRS Front Lip, HID Angels, KW V3, Stoptech BBK, SS lines, 18" TE37SL, Bastuck Exhaust, MS Air Filter, OEM Aluminum Padels, LED Interior Light 07 E92 328i/Jet Black/Cream Beige Leather/Premium/Step/Heated Seats...check garage! |
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09-29-2008, 11:32 AM | #629 | ||
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Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out. Quote:
Hope this helps! George |
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09-30-2008, 05:06 PM | #631 |
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Hey George,
I finally tried out the PFW pad this past weekend. Spent 9 hours on my neice's Accord, including wash, clay, sandpaper to a few spots, and then polishing. I used the PFW on a few bad areas, like where somebody made a poor attempt at keying it. Almost everything came out, she was totally stoked on how her paint was shiny again. But the PFW did some funny stuff. I was using it with power gloss. I noticed there seemed to be NO HEAT on the paint at all, but after using it on a few spots I started to find what looked like toasted PG stuck to the paint. I couldn't see any residue on the pad and didn't use that much. Often I followed the path of the sratch with the PG bottle's opening, making a line where I intended to polish, followed by a spritz of water on the panel. |
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10-01-2008, 11:59 PM | #632 |
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Hey Detailed Image,
I'm absolutely new to detailing and detailing products but ever since I got my new Alpine White 328i Coupe last month, I've gotten almost addicted to these products. I started off with a Meguiars NXT starter kit on amazon.com but after doing more research and reading here on this site, I went and invested in a gallon of chemical guys Maxi Suds soap. I live in the Los Angeles area and I wash my car with Maxi suds soap ever week because of all the dust and dirt spots that show up on the Alpine White. I've waxed once with the NXT tech wax but read that most of these OTC waxes don't last more than a week or two. Since my car is fairly new, I don't really need any polish or a polisher right now, correct? And I should wait like 6 months or a year to get some of the polishing tools especially since I have a white car and its easier to hide the swirl marks? And 2nd question is, what are the best products to use for a paint like Alpine White? Like specifically, I'm really interested in the Dodo Juice wax for white cars. Is this the best possible wax for white paint? And would be bad to mix say NXT tech wax followed by Dodo Juice wax? |
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10-02-2008, 11:19 AM | #633 | ||
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Sometimes I've noticed small specs of polish left on the paint after polishing and even after giving it a wipe down with a microfiber towel. What I usually do is take some Menzerna Top Inspection, some QD or some IPA / Water mixture mist a microfiber towel and give it another wipe. This usually does the trick for the small parts of the polish that seem to be stuck to the paint. I think this is similar to what you are describing. Every once in a while, these specs will clump together in a funny pattern and for a second I think I burned the paint until I give it a wipe with one of the above and it wipes clean. Keep up the great work! Quote:
I saw you said you picked up the Poorboy's Polish with Sealant and Natty's Red. This is a great combination to clean your paint, protect and enhance the depth and gloss. Keep in mind though, this will not remove swirls, scratches and some other deeper imperfections in the paint. You'll be quite pleased with the results the PBW products give you. I'd recommend applying at least 2 layers of Natty's Red for maximum depth and gloss, spaced 24 hours apart to allow for the wax to fully cure. I'd recommend that your next investment is in a quality buffer and some polishes to remove imperfections. I'd suggest looking into the Menzerna line of polishes for maximum results. It's also going to be very beneficial to you to learn about the proper washing and drying techniques, as this is the step where you tend to add a majority of swirls and imperfections to the paint. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Welcome to the world of high quality detailing George |
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10-02-2008, 01:37 PM | #634 |
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Yeah, at one point I was SURE I had scorched the paint with the PFW. The normally white polish was a light tan and bumpy. With a little pressure it came right off. I was thinking the whole time "Well, I got the big scratches out, but see this area here, I messed up"
I was going to offer advice when she came to look at the final results that her peeling original wheel covers looked like snot on the rest of the car, but first thin out of her mouth when she saw how shiny the paint was, was "I need new hub caps!" I told her I'd put them on for her, as long as they WEREN'T spinners |
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10-02-2008, 05:46 PM | #635 | |
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Cheers, George |
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10-04-2008, 12:56 PM | #636 |
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hey George,
I would first like to say that I am a beginner detailer and was recommended to detailed image and I am very pleased with your products! A brief background of where I am at: My paint is brand new, with minor swirl marks (some done by myself while claying ) and 1 minor scratch on my rear bumper which i had since delivery of my car in August. foam gun with PBW super slick & suds I do the 2 bucket /w grit guard system spray down with TAW Clay bar and z6 as lubricant Zaino all-in-one zaino ZCS- clear seal z6 spray detailer z8 grande finale Here is my problem/question: I am not too happy with the Zaino finish. I mean the paint is healthy, silky, but the shine is more of a reflective mirror finish, which i knew was going to happen, but i realized that i want a more warm, wet look I want to know how do I strip down all the zaino products i've applied to the car and start over? Right now i'm about to purchase the flex xc3401 with the starter kit. PO106ff Lime prime pre-wax cleanser dodo juice purple haze' With that said, am i going to have any luck stripping off the zaino and will i get that wet look from the wax that i have chosen? thanks alot, eric |
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10-05-2008, 05:05 PM | #637 | |
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Thanks for the post and kind words. To start fresh with Zaino there are a few options. You can wipe your car down with Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water mix (50/50), wash with a high concentration shampoo designed to remove protection (Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear), re-clay, polish the paint, degrease with TAW, use Prepsol wipedown, or wash with a detergent, such as Dawn. Any of those (or any combination of them) will remove the protective layers of Zaino and give you a fresh start. The look of the combination you mentioned should in fact give you more of that warm, dripping wet, glossy finish. Keep in mind that in terms of protection, you'll need to reapply the Dodo Juice Purple Haze more frequently than you would have to reapply Zaino. Keep us posted on what you end up going with and post some pictures if you can! Looking forward to hearing about your comparison between the look of Zaino vs. Dodo Juice. Cheers, George |
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10-05-2008, 08:44 PM | #638 | |
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Alright, so I can use the Citrus wash and clear (high concentration), re-clay, and wipe it down with 50/50 iso alochol and distilled water mix; and this should be enough to get rid of the Zaino?
I just dont understand how using TAW and polishing the paint does to get rid of zaino? sorry newbie here. Quote:
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