[BMWs4ever]

Most water pumps fail around 100K. I also own a Passat and I have to change the timming belt around 100K since it is a rubber belt. When I change the timming belt I also change the water pump since it is a huge pain in the ass if the water pump were to fail 10-30K later ( you have to take half the car apart for a timming belt or water pump) and I highly doubt it would make it to 200K.

Bottom line I will change my water pump on my BMW at 100K if it had not already failed because you are asking to get towed if you don't so why gamble and get stuck somewhere in the middle of no where usually at the worst possible place. I consider water pump replacements at 100K part of the cost of owning a high mileage car.

[Artmasterx]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

me too... the more i read the more paranoid I get lol

Glad to contribute to your psychological dysfunction.

Originally Posted by aesfah

92k and no issues so far.

i do appreciate the effort in compiling these stats.

You're welcome!

[critical05]

Mine was replaced today at 34k miles. Not due to a failure but due to a slow leak that just started, at cool down.

It was covered under CPO, saw part price was about $500ish. Had them replace the thermostat as well, just paid part cost of $129.

[kluski]

Mine failed about 75,300 miles, so I just passed the 75k mark. I did regular coolant changes every two years as recommended. Mine is a 06 330Xi.

[RnmEvo9]

I guess I am the latest victim, 62495 miles.

[RUS0628]

Mine just went out at 53k. Out of warranty too. Some bs!!!

[thesliu]

54k on a 2009 n54 and no issues. just bought a water pump and t-stat as a backup though since i'll be on a 13,000 mile road trip.

[shata]

Voted, 105k knock on wood / Original but she gets her coolant changed on regular basis.

330I 2006 - She got about 3 changes in 105k, Everything still looks good from looks of it.

[shata]

Originally Posted by BMWs4ever

Most water pumps fail around 100K. I also own a Passat and I have to change the timming belt around 100K since it is a rubber belt. When I change the timming belt I also change the water pump since it is a huge pain in the ass if the water pump were to fail 10-30K later ( you have to take half the car apart for a timming belt or water pump) and I highly doubt it would make it to 200K.

Bottom line I will change my water pump on my BMW at 100K if it had not already failed because you are asking to get towed if you don't so why gamble and get stuck somewhere in the middle of no where usually at the worst possible place. I consider water pump replacements at 100K part of the cost of owning a high mileage car.

+1 If you ever owned e46 you know what he is talking about. fyi I dont want to think about doing it

[954Stealth]

So....damn you all for giving me something else to worry about! I'm at 76k, original pump. It still works fine but I guess that's not a good indicator of future performance. Well, add it to the list of preemptive that I have plan hwell:

[shata]

Seems like N52 pump is more reliable though so should be fine for while. This poll should really be based on model pumps rather then E90's in general. From what im seeing the 335's fail quick which is most likely different pump model?

[nukezero]

This May will be the car's 4 year anniversary and June will be the actual 4 year from the time I picked it up.

I don't know if I should go ahead and change this part out.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by shata

Voted, 105k knock on wood / Original but she gets her coolant changed on regular basis.

330I 2006 - She got about 3 changes in 105k, Everything still looks good from looks of it.

Coolant changes have nothing to do with pump failure. Heat loading causes the pump to fail.

The only way to be assured when to preemptively change the pump out is to have the car scanned regularly with a BMW-reading scan tool (i.e. NOT on an OBD2 reader) and look for pump low-speed fault codes. Once the codes start to appear, change the pump because it will fail eventually.

[TheSubmariner]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Coolant changes have nothing to do with pump failure. Heat loading causes the pump to fail.

The only way to be assured when to preemptively change the pump out is to have the car scanned regularly with a BMW-reading scan tool (i.e. on an OBD2 reader) and look for pump low-speed fault codes. Once the codes start to appear, change the pump because it will fail eventually.

Seems like wise words....

[reventon]

I think my water pump just went out as well. Amber followed by red overheating icon on navi prompting me to pull over. Open the hood, not too hot but seems coolant sprayed/boiled over. Wait a bit to drive home and car is in limp mode.

Can there be any other plausible explanation to this other than waterpump? What are some of the tests I can run myself to get a better understanding of the issue? Will indy shops charge significantly less than the dealership?

Thanks!

[Saintor]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Coolant changes have nothing to do with pump failure. Heat loading causes the pump to fail.

The only way to be assured when to preemptively change the pump out is to have the car scanned regularly with a BMW-reading scan tool (i.e. on an OBD2 reader) and look for pump low-speed fault codes. Once the codes start to appear, change the pump because it will fail eventually.

My modus operandi.

I rarely see above 215 deg F on my car (thanks to my permanent Scangauge Monitor) so I feel good.

Once every 3 months, I check my codes... just in case.

[ELiTeNeSs]

Mine died at 56k miles

I was heading north on I-75 going to Atlanta, GA fron Jacksonville, FL.

Luckily CPO covered towing and repair and they did the battery recall while she was in there.
BMW south of Atlanta took care of me and couldn't be happier with the service

[shata]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Coolant changes have nothing to do with pump failure. Heat loading causes the pump to fail.

The only way to be assured when to preemptively change the pump out is to have the car scanned regularly with a BMW-reading scan tool (i.e. on an OBD2 reader) and look for pump low-speed fault codes. Once the codes start to appear, change the pump because it will fail eventually.

thx for info

[nukezero]

Originally Posted by ELiTeNeSs

Mine died at 56k miles

I was heading north on I-75 going to Atlanta, GA fron Jacksonville, FL.

Luckily CPO covered towing and repair and they did the battery recall while she was in there.
BMW south of Atlanta took care of me and couldn't be happier with the service

When did yours die exactly on what month? It seems like your car being 2008 + 5 years = 2013. So around 5 year mark is the failure point.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by TheSubmariner

Seems like wise words....

Just to make it clear, I had a typo in my post. I meant to say "i.e. NOT on an OBD2 reader". You cannot read the water pump trouble codes on a OBD2 scan tool. You can only see the codes on a BMW code reading tool such as the Bav Tech scan tool.

[nycbr]

Originally Posted by BMWs4ever

Most water pumps fail around 100K. I also own a Passat and I have to change the timming belt around 100K since it is a rubber belt. When I change the timming belt I also change the water pump since it is a huge pain in the ass if the water pump were to fail 10-30K later ( you have to take half the car apart for a timming belt or water pump) and I highly doubt it would make it to 200K.

Bottom line I will change my water pump on my BMW at 100K if it had not already failed because you are asking to get towed if you don't so why gamble and get stuck somewhere in the middle of no where usually at the worst possible place. I consider water pump replacements at 100K part of the cost of owning a high mileage car.

I did the same thing for my wife's Honda Odyssey - changed the thermostat at the same time as the timing belt.

Although if I keep my 328xi until 100K, I am looking at a pretty hefty bill to replace the water pump, thermostat, trans and differential fluids.

[nycbr]

Originally Posted by shata

Seems like N52 pump is more reliable though so should be fine for while. This poll should really be based on model pumps rather then E90's in general. From what im seeing the 335's fail quick which is most likely different pump model?

Does the 335 have a different pump and do those have a higher failure rate?