[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by COBB Tuning

LC and NLS are hopefully things we will work on in the future, but we have some maps we want to get out first.



Ian

today? we are wishing for

[themyst]

Originally Posted by COBB Tuning

LC and NLS are hopefully things we will work on in the future, but we have some maps we want to get out first.

And AccessTUNER is right around the corner. Like, "reach out and touch with my finger" close!

Ian

When these revised maps come out, ATR in another few weeks. That's my speculation.

[pHo_e92]

Originally Posted by COBB Tuning

LC and NLS are hopefully things we will work on in the future, but we have some maps we want to get out first.

And AccessTUNER is right around the corner. Like, "reach out and touch with my finger" close!

Ian

Your such a teaser! lol can we assume by the end of the month?

[nafoo]

How much is a Pro Tune going to be? Can I schedule an appointment with the Austin shop now?

[rader1]

Originally Posted by nafoo

How much is a Pro Tune going to be? Can I schedule an appointment with the Austin shop now?

+1
I'm just waiting on ATP's official release to pull the trigger on a HFS-3 kit and ATP dyno tune... Cash in hand, so hurry up Cobb!!!!

[Pseudo Nim]

What are LC and NLS?

[rooringhusky]

Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim

What are LC and NLS?

Launch Control and No Lift Shift

[dfv2]

Originally Posted by rader1

+1
I'm just waiting on ATP's official release to pull the trigger on a HFS-3 kit and ATP dyno tune... Cash in hand, so hurry up Cobb!!!!

Protunes (dyno then road for fine adjustments) are around $450 in the evo/sti world, I'd expect the N54 to be about that. Also remote tuning (sending datalogs and tune files via email in an iterative process to and from your tuner) is very popular in other markets and I'd expect to see one or two guys charging about $100 a pop for custom maps.

Sidenote, in the evo world and especially the sti world, you lose your motor on a bad tune. Hell, you can lose an EJ257 on a great tune. The N54 and its ECU seem so robust and self-protective that I can't wait to see what some of the general population does with the mapping, how far can this platform be pushed!?

[N54CoupeHP]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

+1

There was a thread here a few days ago, where the dealer "bricked" an ECM by trying to load an update with a Procede on Map 0. There is no way to go back and find exactly what went wrong, as theoretically it should have worked worked, but somehow did not. Be safe, take it out.

Oh f**k that would suck!!

Originally Posted by enrita

REMOVE the Procede prior flashing cobb.

+1!!! Along with everyone else.

[rader1]

Originally Posted by dfv2

Protunes (dyno then road for fine adjustments) are around $450 in the evo/sti world, I'd expect the N54 to be about that. Also remote tuning (sending datalogs and tune files via email in an iterative process to and from your tuner) is very popular in other markets and I'd expect to see one or two guys charging about $100 a pop for custom maps.

Sidenote, in the evo world and especially the sti world, you lose your motor on a bad tune. Hell, you can lose an EJ257 on a great tune. The N54 and its ECU seem so robust and self-protective that I can't wait to see what some of the general population does with the mapping, how far can this platform be pushed!?

Ohh i know. Prices and whatnot have already been discussed with the tuner, i'm just waiting for Cobb to essentially give the green light. I agree that the N54 is good at keeping crappy tunes from grenading engines; but i went with Cobb so i'm not going that route when it comes to ATP so im going with a reputable shop/tuner.

[johej]

Hi.
I ran into some problems today.

I intended to flash my 335i with a Stage 1 aggressive map with my new Cobb Accessport.
I have already mailed Cobb about it but I am afraid that it may take serveral days to get an answer since it is saturday morning in USA now.

Anyway.
The AccessPort stops flashing the car at 46%, saying something about communication error and tells me to check the cable and try again.
I have tried 4 times now. Same problem.

These are all the details about what that happened:

I updated the AP to the latest beta. It might have been 3440.
Ignition on. Plugged in to car.
The AP saved the original ECU.
Start flashing Stage 1, aggressive map.

Some error codes show up on the onboard car screen:
DTC fault
Tyre preassure fault.

The fuel pump starts, and is on, all the time.

Flashing starts, but fails after 46%.
After total of 4 tries, I give up.
Now the onboard car screen says Fuel Pump Error or something.


Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Is there any quick and good solution to this?
Thanks

[rader1]

All the errors and noises are normal when flashing the AP.
Be sure you have suffecient battery to do the flash, hook up a battery charger or go for a long drive to make sure the battery is fully charged.

[johej]

Shouldnt the "low-battery" warning appear if the battery was low?
I got no such warning.

Anyway.
I just plugged in a charger, in case you are right about the battery.
It is a very weak charger. Only 0.5 amp, but better than nothing right?

[rader1]

Originally Posted by johej

Shouldnt the "low-battery" warning appear if the battery was low?
I got no such warning.

Anyway.
I just plugged in a charger, in case you are right about the battery.
It is a very weak charger. Only 0.5 amp, but better than nothing right?

I would think that "low battery" would appear, but these cars freak the f*ck out and do weird thing if they have a low battery so it's hard to say for sure. Atleast this way it eliminates one possibility and will help Cobb sort out whatever is happening. Good luck

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by lawwailok

today? we are wishing for

Apparently not...probably next week.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[Beas]

installed COBB AP yesterday. today my doors are locked shut and wont unlock. using key fob (fresh battery) or using the button on the dash, the doors will not unlock. only way i can get in is turning the key. passenger side door will not open at all, any way i try.

any way this is related to AP install?


EDIT: found a blown fuse. guess it was just a coincidence.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by Beas

installed COBB AP yesterday. today my doors are locked shut and wont unlock. using key fob (fresh battery) or using the button on the dash, the doors will not unlock. only way i can get in is turning the key. passenger side door will not open at all, any way i try.

any way this is related to AP install?


EDIT: found a blown fuse. guess it was just a coincidence.

Little known stealth feature. Car is making judgement that you're not worthy of driving it with the Cobb tune!

Neil

[mave198]

A shop in the NYC tri state area needs to get this ASAP

[woptang22]

I've been considering getting either a FMIC or buying downpipes and using the cobb stage 2 map. not sure which option is better, but downpipes are the more affordable thing for me. but work the downpipes it will throw error codes because of no cats. or does the cobb ap have something built into the maps that prevents it from throwing codes due to catless downpipes? the reason I ask is because PA is pretty strict with emissions and I dont want to have to pay to get downpipes removed after every emissions. any help would be appreciated.

[rader1]

On stage 2 the Cobb AP suppresses the CEL for cat eneffeciency codes, but the car may or may not pass a sniffer test, and it definitely will not pass a visual inspection. If they just do an OB2 readiness check you're good to go.

VRSF has catless DPs for about $400 and are good quality.
There are a few no cutting required FMIC for about $800.

[woptang22]

[QUOTE=rader1;11376418]On stage 2 the Cobb AP suppresses the CEL for cat eneffeciency codes, but the car may or may not pass a sniffer test, and it definitely will not pass a visual inspection. If they just do an OB2 readiness check you're good to go.

VRSF has catless DPs for about $400 and are good quality.
There are a few no cutting required FMIC for about $800.[/QUO

VRSF downpipes are the set I was looking at. They are a great price and I hear good quality. As far as FMIC when I get one I will be going with the HELIX FMIC. But as far as my next mod, which would you think would be better for performance? Getting the downpipes and switching to COBB stage 2 map, or getting the FMIC and waiting for COBB stage 1+ FMIC maps?

[rader1]

I would probably do FMIC first.