[lolololol]

Hey,

I was driving home tonight and drove my car down a bush that was hanging over the road :-(

Only surface sratches - anyone reccommend a product that could help on a Sparkling Graphite ?

TA.

[fulcrum]

Scholl 17+ orange or purple pads (hand or machine)

Or Gtechnic P1

[Brian mc21]

Try some meguairs ultimate compound then polish after that.

[Subzero2003]

If you can feel it with your nails, you won't be able to get rid of it. However you will be able to "round the edges" of the scratch, which will still mean it's there, but makes it so that it reflects light in a different way so appears almost invisible if done properly.

On BMW paint you're going to need to go for days if you do it by hand. You're going to need a machine polisher to make it almost disappear, and even with a machine polisher its hard. I'd also recommend Gtechniq P1 - fantastic stuff.

[lolololol]

Thanks guys

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by Subzero2003

If you can feel it with your nails, you won't be able to get rid of it. However you will be able to "round the edges" of the scratch, which will still mean it's there, but makes it so that it reflects light in a different way so appears almost invisible if done properly.

On BMW paint you're going to need to go for days if you do it by hand. You're going to need a machine polisher to make it almost disappear, and even with a machine polisher its hard. I'd also recommend Gtechniq P1 - fantastic stuff.

Subzero,

I've read a couple of your posts regarding detailing products, and as you have in the past recommended Autoglym SRP I'm interested in what your thoughts are when comparing Gtechnic P1 with Autoglym SRP.

I recently bought some Collonite 476s based on your recommendation and I'm pleased with the result.

[Subzero2003]

Originally Posted by Cyprio

Subzero,

I've read a couple of your posts regarding detailing products, and as you have in the past recommended Autoglym SRP I'm interested in what your thoughts are when comparing Gtechnic P1 with Autoglym SRP.

I recently bought some Collonite 476s based on your recommendation and I'm pleased with the result.

Sure,

I should start off by saying i'm no detailing god or anything, but i have had a good interest in detailing for the past few years so know a little bit.

Autoglym SRP is a fantastic "polish" for the masses. It'll make you car gleam. However, it isn't *really* a polish. SRP has lots and lots of fillers in it, which basically fill in very minor swirls and light scratches. These minor swirls/scratches don't look like anything much from close up, but they give a really really detrimental look to the entire car when you stand back 5 meters. SRP will fill these very minor swirls and give a much better overall look. The more you work the polish in, the more swirls you will fill. SRP is all about how well you work it in - so the more elbow grease you put in, the more shine and filling you do. I'd on a 2x2ft area, i'd recommend working it in for 2 or 3 minutes 3-5 times. This will give fantastic "correction". SRP also contains a light sealant in it which will give you cool beading afterwards:



However, this masking of swirls will not last. The fillers get washed away fairly quickly and after a couple of washes they will be all but gone, revealing all those swirls again.

But all is not lost! GTechniq P1 is a proper polish. So it will give you 100% genuine correction without having to resort to cheating by using fillers. The obvious benefit of this is that once you have corrected the paint - that's it. With softer paints, GTechniq P1 is so effective, you can apply it by hand, but unfortunately, with our super hard German BMW paint, machine polishing is the only way to make any headway with it. Even then, you're going to need a wool pad (which are very coarse and provide maximum cutting into the paint). Obviously if using a wool pad, you need to be very careful due to how quickly they'll cut. I used a compounding foam pad (next down on the coarseness scale) and achieved about a 75% correction. I then followed up with some filler polish (like SRP) to give shine and to fill some of the remaining 25% of imperfections. GTechniq P1 is a brilliant polish and is a great all rounder.

My detail the other week was:

- Rinse with hose
- Wash with two bucket method
- Dry
- Clay bar with detailing spray as the lube (this is fantastic - the rear of the E92, due to it's aerodynamics, attracts dirt and crap like no other car i know of. The clay bar was essential for the back and removed so much)
- Quick wash and dry to remove any clay residue
- Machine polish with Gtechniq P1
- Application of Poorboys Blackhole (very filler heavy and gives lots of shine)
- Application of one layer of Collinite 476s with foam applicator pad
- Wait for next wash and apply another coat of Collinite (Collinite wax takes a while to cure fully)
- Wait for next wash and apply another coat of Collinite.

So, i removed lots of imperfections permanently with Gtechniq P1 and machine polisher, filled in some of the rest of the imperfections with PB Black hole, then used a few coats of Collinite to hold the fillers in and prevent them from being washed away. Overall result was lots of shine and protection for the next 6 months!

[Subzero2003]

Also, took me a while, but the trick with Collinite is to use a damp foam applicator, and put very thin layers on. Also, to remove it from the paint when you can wipe you finger across the paint and it not smear. Should be about 2-5 minutes.

[Dizzle]

What machine and pads do you use? I would buy a machine myself but scared of fudging it up and making the swirls super swirly

[golfmck1980]

For are hard paint prob a rotary machine but if u are a beginner a dual action machine won't achieve the same results as a rotary but they are easier to use

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by Subzero2003

Sure,

I should start off by saying i'm no detailing god or anything, but i have had a good interest in detailing for the past few years so know a little bit.

Autoglym SRP is a fantastic "polish" for the masses. It'll make you car gleam. However, it isn't *really* a polish. SRP has lots and lots of fillers in it, which basically fill in very minor swirls and light scratches. These minor swirls/scratches don't look like anything much from close up, but they give a really really detrimental look to the entire car when you stand back 5 meters. SRP will fill these very minor swirls and give a much better overall look. The more you work the polish in, the more swirls you will fill. SRP is all about how well you work it in - so the more elbow grease you put in, the more shine and filling you do. I'd on a 2x2ft area, i'd recommend working it in for 2 or 3 minutes 3-5 times. This will give fantastic "correction". SRP also contains a light sealant in it which will give you cool beading afterwards:



However, this masking of swirls will not last. The fillers get washed away fairly quickly and after a couple of washes they will be all but gone, revealing all those swirls again.

But all is not lost! GTechniq P1 is a proper polish. So it will give you 100% genuine correction without having to resort to cheating by using fillers. The obvious benefit of this is that once you have corrected the paint - that's it. With softer paints, GTechniq P1 is so effective, you can apply it by hand, but unfortunately, with our super hard German BMW paint, machine polishing is the only way to make any headway with it. Even then, you're going to need a wool pad (which are very coarse and provide maximum cutting into the paint). Obviously if using a wool pad, you need to be very careful due to how quickly they'll cut. I used a compounding foam pad (next down on the coarseness scale) and achieved about a 75% correction. I then followed up with some filler polish (like SRP) to give shine and to fill some of the remaining 25% of imperfections. GTechniq P1 is a brilliant polish and is a great all rounder.

My detail the other week was:

- Rinse with hose
- Wash with two bucket method
- Dry
- Clay bar with detailing spray as the lube (this is fantastic - the rear of the E92, due to it's aerodynamics, attracts dirt and crap like no other car i know of. The clay bar was essential for the back and removed so much)
- Quick wash and dry to remove any clay residue
- Machine polish with Gtechniq P1
- Application of Poorboys Blackhole (very filler heavy and gives lots of shine)
- Application of one layer of Collinite 476s with foam applicator pad
- Wait for next wash and apply another coat of Collinite (Collinite wax takes a while to cure fully)
- Wait for next wash and apply another coat of Collinite.

So, i removed lots of imperfections permanently with Gtechniq P1 and machine polisher, filled in some of the rest of the imperfections with PB Black hole, then used a few coats of Collinite to hold the fillers in and prevent them from being washed away. Overall result was lots of shine and protection for the next 6 months!

Subzero,
Thanks for your detailed response on detailing.

I first ever used Autoglym on my previous car and using it on a regular basis I was able to virtually eliminate minor scratches, so I was well pleased with that. As you rightly say, it's a good filler.

I think I've left it a bit late in the year to do any serious paint correction to my present car; not that it needs that much doing to it, so positively Autoglym/SRP along with a few treatments of Collonite will help the paintwork through the coming winter, and when summer returns (hohoho) I'll invest in some Gtechnic P1 and a Meguiars 220 D/A polisher and really go-to-town on it.

Regarding foam pads, you mentioned that you use a compounding foam pad, so would it be safe for a novice to begin using this type of pad?

[Subzero2003]

Originally Posted by Dizzle

What machine and pads do you use? I would buy a machine myself but scared of fudging it up and making the swirls super swirly

I got a Silverline rotary (cleanyourcar.co.uk has them). Brilliant piece of kit. Just whatever you do, don't get the standard Silverline backing plate as it's crap. Get one of the ones that are about £15-£20. I was worried about destroying my lovely paint too, and it's good that you are, because it is likely you'll be very careful. You just need to start slowly and your first time using it, you aren't likely to get perfect correction with it, but the more you use it and understand your cars paint, you'll be fine. Helps if you have a garage and a high power halogen light so you can see what correction is has given at each stage.

Originally Posted by golfmck1980

For are hard paint prob a rotary machine but if u are a beginner a dual action machine won't achieve the same results as a rotary but they are easier to use

With a rotary, you have to be an absolute moron to mess it up. Just read up about how to use them for a couple of hours, keep it moving, start with the less harsh pads and you'll be fine. Trust me. I was in the exact same boat, and i am so glad i didn't get a DA. So many people buy DA's because they're scared of a rotary, then end up selling their DA a few months later and buying a rotary because they see there is nothing to be scared about and DA's take ages on hard paint like BMWs. They also are a lot more expensive and can go wrong easier due to them being more complicated.

Originally Posted by Cyprio

Subzero,
Thanks for your detailed response on detailing.

I first ever used Autoglym on my previous car and using it on a regular basis I was able to virtually eliminate minor scratches, so I was well pleased with that. As you rightly say, it's a good filler.

I think I've left it a bit late in the year to do any serious paint correction to my present car; not that it needs that much doing to it, so positively Autoglym/SRP along with a few treatments of Collonite will help the paintwork through the coming winter, and when summer returns (hohoho) I'll invest in some Gtechnic P1 and a Meguiars 220 D/A polisher and really go-to-town on it.

Yeh, give a few layers of SRP, then a layer of wax, then another layer of wax on your next wash and you'll be fine over the winter. In spring, i'd definitely recommend buying a rotary over a DA, and also some Gtechniq P1.

Originally Posted by Cyprio

Regarding foam pads, you mentioned that you use a compounding foam pad, so would it be safe for a novice to begin using this type of pad?

Yes, just make sure you have all the other pads as well (finishing, polishing and compounding). Work your way up so you can get to feel how stuff responds. Gtechniq is a very good polish, in that when you use it with a harsh pad, it doesn't leave hardly any buffer trails or marring, especially on BMW paint, like most other polishes do - it looks great even just using a compounding pad! However, it is still necessary to refine with a finishing pad afterwards to get the best from it. I used 3M pads which were great, but definitely get a good backing plate and don't just use the thin and unforgiving standard one.

Bottom line, you'd have to be a royal idiot to ruin your paint, especially on a BMW with Gtechniq P1. It's such a low temperature polish that only need about 1200rpm max to get the best from it. BMW paint is hard, so it means it forgiving. But it is also quite thin, which means you just need to exercise caution when using really heavy duty cutting pads like wool. Even using compounding pads didn't really cut into BMW paint very much at all.

[Cyprio]

Thanks Subzero for all your advice and tips, especially on the topic of Rotary Polishers.

I too was with the assumption that it would be safer as a beginner to start with a D/A, though I guess it's just common sense that as long as one takes a sensible approach there shouldn't be a problem using a rotary - and cheaper too!

[golfmck1980]

Yeah the problem I had was I used a silverline rotary but it had the standard backing plate which was a nightmare to use. This was on my last car an a4 the e90 really badly needs a good seeing too

[Sparky68]

If you get time, go to your nearest scrappy, buy a scrap door or wing and practice on that. Best way of learning without the risks.