[TiAg330]

Last September, I brought my car into the dealership because my doors wouldn't unlock using either the remote or the button inside the car. They fixed the issue under factory warranty referencing PUMA Bulletin 9543813-07 (what is this?). From what I see on my receipt, they replaced fuse 57 with a 20A fuse. No mention of replacing any actuators.

The problem has returned and I'm again unable to unlock my doors.

Research on this forum shows that there is an SIB on the issue (SI B51 19 07). According to the SIB, there are two possible causes for this:

1) An excessive amperage draw by one of the door lock actuators, which is commonly attributed to silicone contamination; or
2) An intermittent, but acceptable, amperage spike slightly above 15A, due to normal variation in the locking system.

Now, given that they have already replaced the 15A fuse with a 20A fuse, we can rule cause 2 out, right? Can I conclude that there is a problem with one of the door lock actuators which were not replaced in my initial visit?

I see this is a safety issue and I don't want to bring in the car only to have them simply replace a fuse and not address the root cause of the problem.

Secondary issue: My factory warranty has now expired. I have CPO warranty remaining but I assume this will cost me 50$. Can I make the argument that since they didn't address this correctly the first time (while I still had factory warranty) I shouldn't have to pay the 50$?

[GMWNashville]

being as its been about 8 months or so since it was worked on...your likely going to have to pay the $50. You may see this as a safety issue but if the SIB was carried out and the fuse replaced-and all lock actuators worked properly-then what else would you expect the dealer to do? replaced all 4? The root cause of the issue is a sporadic jump in current or a completely bad lock actuator, if its sporadic which it seems as though your problem originally was, that can be harder to diag.

[Alex]

I'm currently experiencing the same issue on my '07 335i, but it's only faulty with my driver's side front and rear doors. I did replace the blown fuse 57 with a 20amp one but that did nothing. I have placed a service request with the dealer so we'll see what happens; luckily, I'm still under warranty...

[TiAg330]

I think I read that you're supposed to disconnect the battery for 30 - 45 minutes after replacing the fuse. Did you try that?

[808AWD325xi]

When this happened to me a while back, the dealer replaced all of the door actuators.

[MalM3]

there is an SIB on this on the forum somewhere.

On the ETK there is also a spare part set for repacing all actuators..

So BMW know its a problem

[808AWD325xi]

Here is the SI B:
SI B51 19 07

[woodpecka]

Was it covered by CPO?

[GMWNashville]

yes, cpo covers actuators...

[tylerdurdon]

Originally Posted by TiAg330

Last September, I brought my car into the dealership because my doors wouldn't unlock using either the remote or the button inside the car. They fixed the issue under factory warranty referencing PUMA Bulletin 9543813-07 (what is this?). From what I see on my receipt, they replaced fuse 57 with a 20A fuse. No mention of replacing any actuators.

The problem has returned and I'm again unable to unlock my doors.

Research on this forum shows that there is an SIB on the issue (SI B51 19 07). According to the SIB, there are two possible causes for this:

1) An excessive amperage draw by one of the door lock actuators, which is commonly attributed to silicone contamination; or
2) An intermittent, but acceptable, amperage spike slightly above 15A, due to normal variation in the locking system.

Now, given that they have already replaced the 15A fuse with a 20A fuse, we can rule cause 2 out, right? Can I conclude that there is a problem with one of the door lock actuators which were not replaced in my initial visit?

I see this is a safety issue and I don't want to bring in the car only to have them simply replace a fuse and not address the root cause of the problem.

Secondary issue: My factory warranty has now expired. I have CPO warranty remaining but I assume this will cost me 50$. Can I make the argument that since they didn't address this correctly the first time (while I still had factory warranty) I shouldn't have to pay the 50$?

I had this exact issue and took it in about a week ago. It was under factory warranty and they replaced the actuators for me.

I would try talking to the service manager and showing him the receipt of them not changing out the actuators but instead replacing a fuse (while it was under warranty). If he doesn't do anything, go above his head.

[not4kt]

Good info. I just bought my first BMW and it's having the same problem. I'm having the dealer correct the issue but it's nice to know that I'm not the only one.

[bimm3r_c]

i have the same issue where is Fuse 57 located?

[txusa03]

Originally Posted by bimm3r_c

i have the same issue where is Fuse 57 located?

behind a panel inside glove box.

[bimm3r_c]

Originally Posted by txusa03

behind a panel inside glove box.

found it!, thanks txusa!. after readiing the SIB, i replaced fuse 57 with 20a. The door locks/unlocks now works with no problems..

[Bimmer325]

i just got mine replaced with a 20A fuse of the fuse no. 57. May i know if this is a permanent fix or what?

[txusa03]

Originally Posted by Bimmer325

i just got mine replaced with a 20A fuse of the fuse no. 57. May i know if this is a permanent fix or what?

When it comes to electrical and lock actuator, nothing is permanent. You are going to have some spike in current and that is why they have fuses so expect to have a few fuses blown out. I have spare 20A fuses for this alone. I have replaced it once after the SIB fix. Since owning the car in 2005, I only had to replaced this fuse 2 times and one lock actuator under warranty.

[Bimmer325]

I think the spike could have probably caused while modding the rear LED taillight to LCi. Btw, your lock actuator was on the driver side?