[Briancanadiano]

My situation is unique.
I used to have bad wastegate rattle in neutral or driving as the rpm came down I would get a rattlesnake kind of sound and it was seriously loud!
So I ordered brand new twins off ticher with the updated 8mm wastegate. Now I only have wastegate rattle on acceleration, on throttle (50-75% throttle) my waste gate rattles, when I let go of the gas or rev in neutral I don't have any rattle. What should I do? Should I just get them adjusted at my mechanic? I'm worried they might start rattling like before on decel. New turbos shouldn't need to be adjusted so I'm kind of stuck on what I should do.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Briancanadiano

My situation is unique.
I used to have bad wastegate rattle in neutral or driving as the rpm came down I would get a rattlesnake kind of sound and it was seriously loud!
So I ordered brand new twins off ticher with the updated 8mm wastegate. Now I only have wastegate rattle on acceleration, on throttle (50-75% throttle) my waste gate rattles, when I let go of the gas or rev in neutral I don't have any rattle. What should I do? Should I just get them adjusted at my mechanic? I'm worried they might start rattling like before on decel. New turbos shouldn't need to be adjusted so I'm kind of stuck on what I should do.

Ok I would try a few things. Pull vacuum hose off front turbo and plug see if rattle is present under load. Check rear turbo same way. Next I would check waste gate actuation by pulling the downpipe on the bad turbo and testing actuator with a vacuum pump gun. If actuator is fine verify no issues with vacuum line and reinstall downpipe again ensuring vband clamp makes no contact with actuator rod. If issue is still present replace actuator and rod though I doubt you'll get this far.

[oshusttoley]

Originally Posted by Briancanadiano

My situation is unique.
I used to have bad wastegate rattle in neutral or driving as the rpm came down I would get a rattlesnake kind of sound and it was seriously loud!
So I ordered brand new twins off ticher with the updated 8mm wastegate. Now I only have wastegate rattle on acceleration, on throttle (50-75% throttle) my waste gate rattles, when I let go of the gas or rev in neutral I don't have any rattle. What should I do? Should I just get them adjusted at my mechanic? I'm worried they might start rattling like before on decel. New turbos shouldn't need to be adjusted so I'm kind of stuck on what I should do.

I have read on some forums on here that some people received new turbos that were NOT pre-adjusted and caused the rattle. I would def look Into this theory because you bought the turbos on your own and did not have the dealer install them?

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by oshusttoley

I have read on some forums on here that some people received new turbos that were NOT pre-adjusted and caused the rattle. I would def look Into this theory because you bought the turbos on your own and did not have the dealer install them?

Ya I bought them and had my local Indy do the install.

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

Ok I would try a few things. Pull vacuum hose off front turbo and plug see if rattle is present under load. Check rear turbo same way. Next I would check waste gate actuation by pulling the downpipe on the bad turbo and testing actuator with a vacuum pump gun. If actuator is fine verify no issues with vacuum line and reinstall downpipe again ensuring vband clamp makes no contact with actuator rod. If issue is still present replace actuator and rod though I doubt you'll get this far.

By pulling vacuum hose do you mean the one up top on those 2 black canister looking things in the engine bay? So pull one at a time then do a test drive? Or do you mean where it plugs right at the turbo? Can I reach there without tools, lift, equipment?

[Ingeniator]

Yeah disconnect at the canister. You should cap the canister to prevent stuff getting sucked in. When test driving you might throw a code. When your testing the waste gate you can adjust if required it would be the same procedure.

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

Yeah disconnect at the canister. You should cap the canister to prevent stuff getting sucked in. When test driving you might throw a code. When your testing the waste gate you can adjust if required it would be the same procedure.

So if I disconnect both at the same time and the rattle is still there then what?

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Briancanadiano

So if I disconnect both at the same time and the rattle is still there then what?

It's not waste gates then. Because they would be wide open = no flutter/rattle

[Gizm0]

First thing I did when I received my replacement turbos was testing them with a syringe to pull a vacuum on the actuator and see if the wastegate would close all the way before putting them on my car... The actuator may not be able to fully close the wastegate on yours because when it gets to 100% travel, the wastegate isn't properly seated...

If its coming from the rear turbo you can easily shorten the actuator rod from the top of the engine without having to remove anything. If the rattle comes from the front turbo, you'll have to pull it out of the car to adjust the rod...

It may also be due to a vacuum leak. Have you checked all your vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the canisters, and then from the canisters to the actuators for leaks?

Connect a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line by the boost solenoids to see if you have enough vacuum to pull the wastegate closed. Idle vacuum should be around 16 to 18 in Hg.

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

First thing I did when I received my replacement turbos was testing them with a syringe to pull a vacuum on the actuator and see if the wastegate would close all the way before putting them on my car... The actuator may not be able to fully close the wastegate on yours because when it gets to 100% travel, the wastegate isn't properly seated...

If its coming from the rear turbo you can easily shorten the actuator rod from the top of the engine without having to remove anything. If the rattle comes from the front turbo, you'll have to pull it out of the car to adjust the rod...

It may also be due to a vacuum leak. Have you checked all your vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the canisters, and then from the canisters to the actuators for leaks?

Ya my Indy tested them with the car off and the solenoid a we're holding pretty steady, just a very very slight leak almost unnoticeable to the eye. He said they were ok.

[Gizm0]

Was the wastegate closing all the way with full travel of the actuator arm?

I'm saying this because on one of the turbos I received, if I pulled on the actuator rod all the way, the wastegate would only travel like 95% of its range, and that would cause a rattle...

[Briancanadiano]

Just unplugged both lines, guess what, it rattles even louder on acceleration with turbos off

[Gizm0]

U sure it's the wastegate and not a heat shield or something else? I had a rattle after I put everything back together and it turned out to be the clamp holding the catback exhaust. I forgot to tighten it up and my exhaust was rattling. Sounded like a wastegate.

[Ingeniator]

I've never tried this test on this platform. I suppose it is possible for the rods to allow movement. I think gizmo is right and you need to adjust the actuators or you have a vacuum issue. I'd go back to the shop and explain whats going on and ask to get the stroke verified and adjusted.

[Briancanadiano]

Well on jb4 on menu 12 on can slightly make it quieter but not much. And I already had a mechanic check heat shield and everything was good to. So now I'm just frustrated cuz I've spent so much money trying to find this noise and nothing. Where do I go from here now? Funny thing is it only happens under load, in neutral they don't rattle.

[Ingeniator]

Thinking on this you had a trans issue also. I wonder if it's a cracked flexplate / loose Tq converter.

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

Thinking on this you had a trans issue also. I wonder if it's a cracked flexplate / loose Tq converter.

Damn. I was so happy about modding the car now it's just problem after problem..
Tomorow I'm dropping it off for the adjustment. If it doesn't resolve the issue I'll check back either way

[Gizm0]

With JB4 on map 8 (limp mode, wastegate fully open) do you still have a rattle?

Also, on map one, if you go to menu 2 and option 4 (hijack fuel gauge to show boost above, on or below target), the needle should stay in the middle when you WOT. If it goes to the left, you're not hitting target because of your wastegate not fully closed.

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

With JB4 on map 8 (limp mode, wastegate fully open) do you still have a rattle?

Also, on map one, if you go to menu 2 and option 4 (hijack fuel gauge to show boost above, on or below target), the needle should stay in the middle when you WOT. If it goes to the left, you're not hitting target because of your wastegate not fully closed.

I'll go check it out right now

[Gizm0]

Originally Posted by Briancanadiano

I'll go check it out right now

Note that on map 8 your exhaust should be much louder and the car will be slow because its not building boost.

Don't do the test with the gauge hijacking on map 8...

[Briancanadiano]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

Note that on map 8 your exhaust should be much louder and the car will be slow because its not building boost.

Don't do the test with the gauge hijacking on map 8...

On map 8 I didn't really notice the exhaust that much louder. The noise was still there though.

As for the boost it kind of moved both ways under and over, it's unstable but at wot it goes over (just passes by one unit of halftank. Def doesn't stay in the middle.
I can make a video and email it to you if you want. I can catch it on camera.

[Briancanadiano]

Also is it normal to spike upwards (overboost) a bit after letting off the throttle?