[EMC]

Originally Posted by dsjr2006

Yea mine showed no signs other than the light. I replaced the pump though since I have an XI and its nearly 12 hours to drop the pan anyways.

Do you know if there are any special tools required to change the oil pump? I think the crankshaft/flywheel needs to be locked but other than that, I don't know.

I have all the new parts waiting, so will push for them to be swapped. Also have a set of 535xi ar Design downpipes waiting to go in since most of the removal work will already be done.


Best of luck! I hope this is all that is required to get things working perfectly.

[dsjr2006]

Originally Posted by EMC

Do you know if there are any special tools required to change the oil pump? I think the crankshaft/flywheel needs to be locked but other than that, I don't know.

I have all the new parts waiting, so will push for them to be swapped. Also have a set of 535xi ar Design downpipes waiting to go in since most of the removal work will already be done.


Best of luck! I hope this is all that is required to get things working perfectly.

I'm not aware of any special tools, but I know the bolts need to be changed since they're aluminum. I wish you luck too! I could use some....car is now smoking excessively...

[shushikiary]

There are 2 filters, one for each VANOS that are in the engine block, have you checked to make sure they are not clogged? On real oem they are called something like check valves.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=900394

[EMC]

Long time update on my cars low oil pressure light. It would only come on for a second or two when cold starting at 5 degrees or below.

Anyway...

Finally got to change the oil pickup tube and the pump. Pickup tube had bits of belt in it and was probably half plugged. The oil pump was perfect, but I had a brand new OEM pump so that was installed anyway. I was sure the light was caused by the partially plugged pickup tube. This confirmed it.

[muncie21]

Originally Posted by EMC

Long time update on my cars low oil pressure light. It would only come on for a second or two when cold starting at 5 degrees or below.

Anyway...

Finally got to change the oil pickup tube and the pump. Pickup tube had bits of belt in it and was probably half plugged. The oil pump was perfect, but I had a brand new OEM pump so that was installed anyway. I was sure the light was caused by the partially plugged pickup tube. This confirmed it.

Thanks for taking the time to post the resolution. This will help those that come after you, having this problem.

[Chromey]

OK I'm having the exact same issue it's been a pain changed oil clean solenoids still getting low oil pressure in limp mode first thing in the morning only one oil seems to be cold but oil pressure is on for a couple seconds and usually pulls a code with In minutes of start up. Hoping since the last post people have had the same issues and found Help. .

[Chromey]

It's going in tomorrow but what I've been doing is clearing the code each time. Takes about three times and then for the rest of the day it's fine. it is obviously a cold oil issue or start up issue ... just to be clear as I don't have idrive , the oil sign appears and the bell noise for a few seconds on start then disappears and then shortly after limp mode shows up? Codes are always to do with vanos.

[Chromey]

Hi guys just a update , in case someone else sees this thread later .. it was in the end a plugged oil line from when my serpentine belt snapped. Oil pan pulled and there it was. I had all the issues as stated above. Hope that helps the next person.

[EMC]

Originally Posted by Chromey

Hi guys just a update , in case someone else sees this thread later .. it was in the end a plugged oil line from when my serpentine belt snapped. Oil pan pulled and there it was. I had all the issues as stated above. Hope that helps the next person.

Same thing I had...although mine only threw a code when it was below 5 degrees outside on a cold engine because the oil was really thick. My pickup tube was only partially blocked.

Glad to hear your got it resolved. Sorry it was a pain to do the job!

[mrpower]

Hey guys, first post here but I have been a long time member of several other bmw forums so I've been around the block so to speak. Anyway just wanted to give an update on this issue. I had the same symptoms, low oil pressure on cold start, various vanos and intake codes, replaced all corresponding parts and no solve. Turned out to be belt in the oil pan from the previous owner belt suck in. He replaced the seal but didn't drop the pan because he thought it didn't penetrate. Cleaned it all out changed the oil twice and did the VCG to make sure nothing made it past the sump ( all clear yaaayyy), and the beast is back! Word to the wise if the belt even pierces the seal drop the pan and save your self the headache later.

[soulfulstudios]

So first. Oil light came on. Car was shakey, not terrible but clicky. I changed the oil and found out that my oil filter cap was missing the center piece. I rushed to the shop and got one, replaced filter, o rings ect. and car sounded like magic again. Soon after, VANOS erros. Intake. I clean and swap the intake and exhaust. Now the exhaust code is born. So I say wth, I replace BOTH VANOS solenoids. Car runs like magic. the next week, VANOS codes again. this time, crankshaft inlet reference code is born. So im researching and praying that its not the timing/bearings that need to be replaced.

I crank my car now, it feels like a go-kart. Very low oil pressure. It jerks and sputters UNTIL i drive it and the oil pressure 'fixes itself'. On a cold start It will cut off at a stop light/sign. So I have to keep my foot on the gas while I'm stopped to keep the RPM around 1000 and hold the brake at the same time which is nice and dangerous in stop and go traffic. The RPM (while stopped) will rev, and jump from 600-1200 up and down on its own, so I look like a jerk to everyone who pulls up next to me Feels like the car is trying to compensate/calculate the low oil pressure.

Today I got a new oil pressure switch, didnt install it yet ( didnt have a 24mm) but I DOUBT thats the problem. Now its causing a few of my coils to misfire. So to drive my car, i have to clear the codes, crank it, let it run/get the oil pressure and temp up and THEN it will run smooth.

Newest code: Inlet camshaft synchronization ??? what is gong on with my car? Yes it has a JB4 but its been off for months after I had to change all 6 injectors, plugs, and coils.

How can I tell whats causing the low oil pressure? Could it be the oil filter housing that needs replacing? The oil pump? Its clicking and clacking like when you put a bottle in bicycle spokes. OIL LEVEL FULL BTW.
08 335i N54 about 175k Miles, half engine light is on, boost deactivated but not in limp mode.

[mxchris727]

Originally Posted by soulfulstudios

So first. Oil light came on. Car was shakey, not terrible but clicky. I changed the oil and found out that my oil filter cap was missing the center piece. I rushed to the shop and got one, replaced filter, o rings ect. and car sounded like magic again. Soon after, VANOS erros. Intake. I clean and swap the intake and exhaust. Now the exhaust code is born. So I say wth, I replace BOTH VANOS solenoids. Car runs like magic. the next week, VANOS codes again. this time, crankshaft inlet reference code is born. So im researching and praying that its not the timing/bearings that need to be replaced.

I crank my car now, it feels like a go-kart. Very low oil pressure. It jerks and sputters UNTIL i drive it and the oil pressure 'fixes itself'. On a cold start It will cut off at a stop light/sign. So I have to keep my foot on the gas while I'm stopped to keep the RPM around 1000 and hold the brake at the same time which is nice and dangerous in stop and go traffic. The RPM (while stopped) will rev, and jump from 600-1200 up and down on its own, so I look like a jerk to everyone who pulls up next to me Feels like the car is trying to compensate/calculate the low oil pressure.

Today I got a new oil pressure switch, didnt install it yet ( didnt have a 24mm) but I DOUBT thats the problem. Now its causing a few of my coils to misfire. So to drive my car, i have to clear the codes, crank it, let it run/get the oil pressure and temp up and THEN it will run smooth.

Newest code: Inlet camshaft synchronization ??? what is gong on with my car? Yes it has a JB4 but its been off for months after I had to change all 6 injectors, plugs, and coils.

How can I tell whats causing the low oil pressure? Could it be the oil filter housing that needs replacing? The oil pump? Its clicking and clacking like when you put a bottle in bicycle spokes. OIL LEVEL FULL BTW.
08 335i N54 about 175k Miles, half engine light is on, boost deactivated but not in limp mode.

Sounds like unfiltered oil clogged up in the VANOS solenoids damaging the camshaft bearing ledges.

[Louee_90]

Originally Posted by soulfulstudios

So first. Oil light came on. Car was shakey, not terrible but clicky. I changed the oil and found out that my oil filter cap was missing the center piece. I rushed to the shop and got one, replaced filter, o rings ect. and car sounded like magic again. Soon after, VANOS erros. Intake. I clean and swap the intake and exhaust. Now the exhaust code is born. So I say wth, I replace BOTH VANOS solenoids. Car runs like magic. the next week, VANOS codes again. this time, crankshaft inlet reference code is born. So im researching and praying that its not the timing/bearings that need to be replaced.

I crank my car now, it feels like a go-kart. Very low oil pressure. It jerks and sputters UNTIL i drive it and the oil pressure 'fixes itself'. On a cold start It will cut off at a stop light/sign. So I have to keep my foot on the gas while I'm stopped to keep the RPM around 1000 and hold the brake at the same time which is nice and dangerous in stop and go traffic. The RPM (while stopped) will rev, and jump from 600-1200 up and down on its own, so I look like a jerk to everyone who pulls up next to me Feels like the car is trying to compensate/calculate the low oil pressure.

Today I got a new oil pressure switch, didnt install it yet ( didnt have a 24mm) but I DOUBT thats the problem. Now its causing a few of my coils to misfire. So to drive my car, i have to clear the codes, crank it, let it run/get the oil pressure and temp up and THEN it will run smooth.

Newest code: Inlet camshaft synchronization ??? what is gong on with my car? Yes it has a JB4 but its been off for months after I had to change all 6 injectors, plugs, and coils.

How can I tell whats causing the low oil pressure? Could it be the oil filter housing that needs replacing? The oil pump? Its clicking and clacking like when you put a bottle in bicycle spokes. OIL LEVEL FULL BTW.
08 335i N54 about 175k Miles, half engine light is on, boost deactivated but not in limp mode.

Hey I know it has been about a whole year since this post and issue. But could you tell me if there was an update on this?
I am getting all the exaxct same symtpoms as you. Rough idle. clicking until its warm and then runs smoother. And as well the same codes at first it was vanos codes but i replaced both solenoids. And i get oil light and check engine with boost deactivation etc. I am trying alot of things like plugs and seals and gaskets but I am honestly getting really convinced that it might be my oil pump. Let me know if you managed to fix the above issue thanks!

[Bimzimma]

You will need to replace the Vanos solenoids to BMW original part number. BMW 11367585425. Do make sure its not some aftermarket brand. And unless you are tuned get rid of aftermarket air intakes. Its got something to do with not enough fuel and too much air coming into the chambers which shorts out the electronic components inside your solenoids. I would also replace the vacuum lines while I'm at it.

[Bimzimma]

Originally Posted by Louee_90

Hey I know it has been about a whole year since this post and issue. But could you tell me if there was an update on this?
I am getting all the exaxct same symtpoms as you. Rough idle. clicking until its warm and then runs smoother. And as well the same codes at first it was vanos codes but i replaced both solenoids. And i get oil light and check engine with boost deactivation etc. I am trying alot of things like plugs and seals and gaskets but I am honestly getting really convinced that it might be my oil pump. Let me know if you managed to fix the above issue thanks!

I would recommend you do a compression test in all cylinders 160 to 180 psi is healthy.

Secondly replace valve lifters 11337548690 and camshaft seals 11317587757 two on each shaft. if the ledges are too scored from the old metal seals then replace them also used ones from ebay are fine. (note: you will need a timing tool kit for this job) lastly replace to index 12 injectors for WOTs all day. (if the injectors are old they also produce a clicking noise)

If that still does not work check the oil pick up, you will access this by removing the oil pan. possibly a spun crank hub.