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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > In need of a Rear Main seal diy



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      12-13-2017, 08:59 PM   #1
Shane335
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In need of a Rear Main seal diy

I have searched and searched for a rear main seal diy in the DIY section and google to no avail. Any help would be super appreciated.
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      12-13-2017, 09:46 PM   #2
ChuckThomas
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Bentley manual. It's a fairly similar process on e46 which there's a YouTube video on. Start with those two options.
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      12-13-2017, 10:26 PM   #3
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Im currently in the process of replacing the rear main on my 335xi. So far I've removed exhaust, heat shields, front and rear driveshafts, and trans fluid. From there it's just a matter of removing wires and connectors from transmission, followed by the torque converter/bell-housing bolts, and a few other things lol. I'm doing this on some cribbing blocks I made out of 2x4 for extra height. I may have to drop the subframe for clearance, not sure yet. I'll post back.

There are two different rear main seal sizes, and a lot of confusion on which one to use. I spoke with the shop Forman at my local BMW, his recommendation is to replace with the same size removed. You also need a special primer and sealant from the dealer.
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      12-19-2017, 10:47 PM   #4
Shane335
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I got the primer and seal. I know how to do it in a general way . It's just nice to have a guide on hand
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      12-20-2017, 07:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane335 View Post
I got the primer and seal. I know how to do it in a general way . It's just nice to have a guide on hand
Yeah, it was very straightforward. Took me about 9 hours removal and install without a lift. 335xi AT

Few things to note:

-You'll need a 50mm wrench to remove rear driveshaft
- All bell housing bolts are accessible from underneath the car. You will need about 3ft of extensions.
- Bolts with blue paint should be replaced, but I did not.
- The seal install tool is probably worth the money. I did not use it, but you really have to beat on it to get it to seat. (Risk of damaging seal)
- No specified install depth (Because you're suppose to use tool), I installed flush with the block as recommended by others on the forum.
- Exhaust downpipe bolts may be very rusty (climate depending) I had to cut off 3 and drill them out.
- MAKE SURE torque converter is fully seated when reinstalling. Mine was actually stuck to flex pate upon removal.
- I had to drop the subframe a couple inches to get the transmission to clear the tunnel.
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      12-20-2017, 10:26 PM   #6
Shane335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser124 View Post
Yeah, it was very straightforward. Took me about 9 hours removal and install without a lift. 335xi AT

Few things to note:

-You'll need a 50mm wrench to remove rear driveshaft
- All bell housing bolts are accessible from underneath the car. You will need about 3ft of extensions.
- Bolts with blue paint should be replaced, but I did not.
- The seal install tool is probably worth the money. I did not use it, but you really have to beat on it to get it to seat. (Risk of damaging seal)
- No specified install depth (Because you're suppose to use tool), I installed flush with the block as recommended by others on the forum.
- Exhaust downpipe bolts may be very rusty (climate depending) I had to cut off 3 and drill them out.
- MAKE SURE torque converter is fully seated when reinstalling. Mine was actually stuck to flex pate upon removal.
- I had to drop the subframe a couple inches to get the transmission to clear the tunnel.
Thanks for all the info. I went ahead ad bought the tool. I'm hoping to knock it out saturday
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      12-21-2017, 05:48 PM   #7
Cruiser124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane335 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser124 View Post
Yeah, it was very straightforward. Took me about 9 hours removal and install without a lift. 335xi AT

Few things to note:

-You'll need a 50mm wrench to remove rear driveshaft
- All bell housing bolts are accessible from underneath the car. You will need about 3ft of extensions.
- Bolts with blue paint should be replaced, but I did not.
- The seal install tool is probably worth the money. I did not use it, but you really have to beat on it to get it to seat. (Risk of damaging seal)
- No specified install depth (Because you're suppose to use tool), I installed flush with the block as recommended by others on the forum.
- Exhaust downpipe bolts may be very rusty (climate depending) I had to cut off 3 and drill them out.
- MAKE SURE torque converter is fully seated when reinstalling. Mine was actually stuck to flex pate upon removal.
- I had to drop the subframe a couple inches to get the transmission to clear the tunnel.
Thanks for all the info. I went ahead ad bought the tool. I'm hoping to knock it out saturday
No problem, definitely doable in one day!
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      12-22-2017, 09:31 AM   #8
ChuckThomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane335 View Post
Thanks for all the info. I went ahead ad bought the tool. I'm hoping to knock it out saturday
Shane I'm willing to buy it off of you after you complete!!
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      12-22-2017, 12:15 PM   #9
jwalker87
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As far as DIYs go, if you can find a DIY for clutch and flywheel replacement, that will get you 90% there I would imagine.
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      12-23-2017, 07:43 PM   #10
Shane335
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I did the job today. took about 5 hours. having a lift and trans jack helped. I may write up a diy. thanks for all the advice
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      04-13-2021, 12:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane335 View Post
I did the job today. took about 5 hours. having a lift and trans jack helped. I may write up a diy. thanks for all the advice
Hey sorry to resurrect a thread, did you ever write the diy?
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      04-13-2021, 07:51 PM   #12
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Please take a look @ my thread for the rear main seal installation.
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      04-13-2021, 08:15 PM   #13
iBryan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bshambam View Post
Please take a look @ my thread for the rear main seal installation.
Cant seem to find it? Can you link it please?
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