[Velocity26]

It would be really strange for those two items to be related. I am not sure what path the wiring harness for the headlights takes, but I doubt it would go over the engine.

Maybe this is a coincidence?

I never had ANY warning pop ups throughout my problems, the headlight was just pointing downward and was not moving but the computer never did show a fault.

[dauble2k5]

Originally Posted by GSTE34

Sorry to bring back this old post but after I took off the air box and put it back in to replace spark plugs my adaptive head light warning came on with the two arrows left to right, is that even possible that I might have bumped something out of place?

Hm, that's odd. Sure you didn't hit any wires when you were removing it? Guess I'd double check all the wires around and make sure everything's connected.

[Frost17]

This thread is extremely helpful.

I replaced the control arm and the xenon is now moving from left to right. But the up/down is barely moving up.

Can someone elaborate how to control the height? I really tried to find out exactly what controls it, but I cannot figure it out.

[Velocity26]

There are (2) servo motors, one that moves the light up and down, and another left to right. The up/down motor is on the lower rear of the headlight assembly. You remove the inner fender liner and you have access to the back of the headlight assembly. You can remove it from there. Usually there are two common failure modes: The motor works fine but the arm has popped out of the socket, and the motor does not move (frozen). Once you know what problem you have, you move toward a repair.

[Frost17]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

There are (2) servo motors, one that moves the light up and down, and another left to right. The up/down motor is on the lower rear of the headlight assembly. You remove the inner fender liner and you have access to the back of the headlight assembly. You can remove it from there. Usually there are two common failure modes: The motor works fine but the arm has popped out of the socket, and the motor does not move (frozen). Once you know what problem you have, you move toward a repair.

I'm fairly confident that it is not the arm issue. I replaced it and secured it inside the assembly. I hear the motor moving as well. It is much better than before. It was completely immobile.

[Velocity26]

In that case, on top of the headlight assembly, there is a height adjustment that will allow you some movement. Open the hood and you should be able to find it easily. Each motor seems to "zero" in a slightly different place and this lets you align the headlights. Shine the headlights onto a wall, or garage door, and align the low headlight with the normal one. Do not force the mechanism beyond where it starts to tighten up. The internal mechanism is fragile and expensive. Hopefully there is enough adjustment for you to align them properly.

[Frost17]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

In that case, on top of the headlight assembly, there is a height adjustment that will allow you some movement. Open the hood and you should be able to find it easily. Each motor seems to "zero" in a slightly different place and this lets you align the headlights. Shine the headlights onto a wall, or garage door, and align the low headlight with the normal one. Do not force the mechanism beyond where it starts to tighten up. The internal mechanism is fragile and expensive. Hopefully there is enough adjustment for you to align them properly.

Will try this tomorrow. This screw adjustment was previously done before the aim control was replaced. Would this adjustment help after replacing that part?

Thanks.

[Velocity26]

When my motor froze it was in the low position and it was very noticeable. I wanted to improve the situation until I was able to make a proper repair, so I raised the headlight much closer to normal with the adjustment screw. It was not moving, but it was pretty close to where it would be under normal circumstances. Once I replaced the motor, the headlight was way too high and I had to adjust it down (likely close to where it would have been, had I not adjusted it initially). There is a significant adjustment available, but not enough to make up for a broken motor.

[Frost17]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

When my motor froze it was in the low position and it was very noticeable. I wanted to improve the situation until I was able to make a proper repair, so I raised the headlight much closer to normal with the adjustment screw. It was not moving, but it was pretty close to where it would be under normal circumstances. Once I replaced the motor, the headlight was way too high and I had to adjust it down (likely close to where it would have been, had I not adjusted it initially). There is a significant adjustment available, but not enough to make up for a broken motor.

The adjustment screws make no difference. After installing the motor, the xenon moves from left to right normally. But is still angled down. Is it worth reinstalling the aim control to see if it's not seated properly?

[Frost17]

I reinstalled the motor and it's working great now. Back to normal.

Does the car need to be reprogrammed?

[Velocity26]

No, the only adjustment necessary is the initial adjustment to make the elevation even with the other headlight. They are servo motors and re-calibrate themselves each time you turn on the lights. They calibrate themselves relative to the base setting of the adjustment screw, so that you can align them. Once they are aligned, they should stay that way as long as the motor is working properly.

[Frost17]

Originally Posted by Velocity26

No, the only adjustment necessary is the initial adjustment to make the elevation even with the other headlight. They are servo motors and re-calibrate themselves each time you turn on the lights. They calibrate themselves relative to the base setting of the adjustment screw, so that you can align them. Once they are aligned, they should stay that way as long as the motor is working properly.

I was able to fix it. Re-installed the servo again and it popped into place. Thanks for the help. Adjusted it level and all is well.

Appreciate it!

[Deregibus]

This was a really helpful thread, I'm posting my experience in case anyone else encounters the same thing in the future.

My situation was that the passenger headlight of my '09 335i was pointed down ~8" compared to the driver's side when shining them on a wall that was ~4' away.

I ended up removing the entire headlight assembly and pulled off the back cover. The servo seemed to be in the socket fine, but I could tilt the bulb housing up to it's proper centered position freely with almost no force. I looked around at it for a bit and didn't see any obvious signs of damage or loose pieces.

I had read in a previous post that there's a third attachment point somewhere so I tried tilting the bulb housing to the center position and just kept pushing. With only a bit of extra force it clicked solidly into place and I could no longer tilt it by hand. The whole init/self-leveling startup process seems to work fine, the only other thing I needed to do was to use the adjuster to get the baseline lined up with the driver side. I never actually figured out where the third attachment point was.

I've only taken it on one drive, but it's held up so far.

[ssdara]

Hi,

Please see my thread here if you know how to hook the left<->right manual adjustment arm back onto the headlight assembly.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1388200

[vilord]

I attempted this repair as both of my headlights were not leveling (both did go left-right).

Right one seems fine, but the motor doesn't do anything. I'm guessing the servo motor is shot. Not having any luck finding the part number for the e90 pre-lci servo motor... Anyone else know what it is?

Left one the motor was actuating, the arm was properly attached, but the entire housing was bouncing around inside the shell. The up/down adjuster arm had sheared in half. Can't buy a new one, and can't even get to it... so I cut a hole in the top of the shell and added a nice big blob of gorilla super glue to re-attach it.

Has anyone else tried this? Any chance it will hold?
I'll probably either keep my eyes peeled for a complete assembly cheap, or i'll just shove a bunch of heat-resistant foam in there to keep it from moving... not in the mood to drop $500+ just to keep the light from bouncing around.

[Velocity26]

There is more going on with these headlights than what I understand. The mechanism moves with almost no effort needed, yet we have ball joints popping out of the sockets quite often. It takes a lot of force to insert/remove a ball from the socket and I have no idea how that can happen. Same with your broken arm, that arm is under almost no stress since the mechanism has little weight moves almost frictionlessly. After your gorilla glue sets, get a hot glue gun and glue some toothpicks to the side of the shaft or just add more plastic to reinforce your glue job.

[vilord]

Not sure I'll be able to get in there, but I'll try to add some toothpicks, good idea.

It isn't as light as you imply... It had a big glass lens on the front, motors, ballast, etc. Probably weighs a couple pounds... Shock load on a couple pounds when hitting potholes (and in my case when someone borrowing the car hits a Civic) are intense.

[Velocity26]

You are correct, there are heavy components in the housing, but they are fixed to the housing and do not move with the arm. The moving parts are very light and well balanced. At least the parts that I have messed with.

[vilord]

Well, I looked through the hole in the back and through the hole I made in the top... there's no good way to get in there to add any additional support without cutting the top hole i made much bigger, so I'm going to leave it be and see how long the glue holds. So far its handled 2 days of boston potholes, so i'm hopeful!

As for heavy things, the hid bulb itself has a small module on the back, and on the front is a not-tiny real glass lens. next to that is two servo motors. all of that is on the movable carriage that's only suspended by a three small plastic arms (one of which is the vertical leveling servo).

[Asonchadwick]

I jave a question on my adaptive lights. I got them aimed and they do the self check up and down. My issues are when I hit large enough bumps they shake and i can see the beam shake, also in adaptive mode when i am stopped and i turn the wheel clockwise I see the lights turn, then as soon as I go to center the wheel the lights center as well, but as soon as the wheel goes counter clockwise from there the light stay centered.

Are these 2 things normal?

2010 335d

[b1nd]

Hello all,
my car is from 2005 and it has LCI halogen headlights and FRM2 retrofitted.
After replacing FRMFA to FRM2 my headlights don't leveling up and down on engine start. Level adjuster next to the light switch doesn't work too.
Is there something should I code?
Sorry for my english.
Regards.

[gixracer]

Good thread, my car was imitating Forest Whitaker for the last couple day after a pothole encounter. My left was down. The elevation motor was out of the socket. Took the wheel off along with fender liner. After removing the access panel. I took out the motor screws and popped back in. Good as new. BMW could do better and pothole proof their headlights.

Again thanks to the OP