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Door Speaker Wiring -- using OEM connector?
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09-08-2009, 12:47 AM | #1 |
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Door Speaker Wiring -- using OEM connector?
So I am installing a CDT Audio HD-42 - 4" HD Series Component System in my doors. I found a set of pins which allow me to adapt the OEM connectors to conventional wires which will then go to my passive cross over.
But the pins look very small. I want to leave everything as stock as possible so just plugging into the existing connector is ideal. But the pins are so small that I am wondering whether using the existing connectors will create a bottleneck in my system at the connectors. Ideas? |
09-08-2009, 06:07 AM | #3 | |
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09-08-2009, 12:39 PM | #4 | |
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I spent a lot of time this weekend drilling the aluminum brackets I am installing on the inside of the doors which will allow me to top mount the speakers. I will post pics when they are done. |
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09-08-2009, 12:58 PM | #5 |
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I did not say that you cannot top mount these speakers, I said that you cannot bottom mount (behind the OEM grilles) these speakers...
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09-08-2009, 01:37 PM | #6 | |
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The OEM speakers use the depth of the panel because their brackets are recessed back from the front of the speaker. So if you don't top mount, you are losing like a half an inch in depth which the OEM speakers are designed to take advantage of. |
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09-08-2009, 04:19 PM | #8 |
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09-08-2009, 08:34 PM | #9 | |
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Or wrap the connector/pin assembly with bare copper wire before insulating it which effectively will increase the gauge of the wire at that point by providing more conductive material. Or don't worry about it. The voltage drop across that short little connector is going to be very small and insignificant. You can get away with passing a lot of current through a small wire for a short distance - you have problems the longer the wire gets. |
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09-08-2009, 10:48 PM | #10 | |
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09-12-2009, 02:14 PM | #11 |
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So my devious plan to top mount the CDTs is coming together. We shall see...
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09-14-2009, 12:55 AM | #12 |
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One in. Couldn't figure out how to get the sail panel off so I couldn't do the tweeter. Another research project.
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09-14-2009, 10:43 AM | #14 |
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09-14-2009, 05:06 PM | #15 |
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09-26-2009, 01:04 PM | #16 | |
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Back to using OEM wires. |
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09-26-2009, 01:35 PM | #17 |
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I didn't add pins and I didn't mod the connector.
Did you take the boot off? There was a huge passage at the bottom of the connector on the sill side. I pulled Pear Cable Comice in there - as big around as your little finger, OD more like a 16GA extension cord. I put a little hand soap on it to help pull it through the Z-shapped rubber boot, but getting it through the connector was not a deal. The driver's side wire passage in the kick is blocked by a module. I took out a bolt temporarily to get the wire through. The passenger side passage was not blocked. Both passages were plugged with gray foam plugs with a notch for the wire. Would you like me to take pics of how to do it and post them? |
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09-26-2009, 02:29 PM | #18 | |
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09-26-2009, 03:18 PM | #19 |
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I don't see any passage in my connector. There is a gap in the sheet metal, but no way I see to get a wire through it without drilling the top portion of the plastic housing where the white dot is.
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09-26-2009, 06:03 PM | #20 |
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The connector is not as long as the boot opening. I ran the wire at the bottom of the boot - as close as possible to the corrugated boot itself - and drilled no holes.
If you were pulling standard lamp-cord-style speaker wire rather than the cable I pulled, it should be even easier. |
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10-03-2009, 10:55 AM | #21 |
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Well, they sound pretty good. Haven't made the covers yet, but considering what I had to do to install the midranges without drilling the door panels, the covers shouldn't be a problem.
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